Armory Sponsor
Posted: 1/11/2011 11:16:39 AM EDT
| I have a few knives out on display in my mancave in the basement (finished) every so often they start to develop rust i have used several of the gun oils but they will still start to spot up especially the bead blasted finish knives. The problem is worse in the summer. |
| Have you tried Tuf-Glide? I swear by it, put it on all my guns and knives. |
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I've heard good things about Bo-Shield. Even good quality auto WAX (not polish) should work.
Never store any knife in a leather scabbard unless the scabbard has been internally treated with good quality leather treatment, and this does NOT mean neetsfoot oil. Trust me on this. |
| Museums and such (Like me with my carbon steel sword collection) use wax on the swords and never store them in the sheath. I live in Florida and do not put my blades inside my safe but I use a good car wax on them. There is a specific museum wax that is used but it is not usually necessary. Cleaner wax is recommended for tarnish and fingerprint removal. Wax and clean them regularly when you do your firearms once a month and all will be well. Oils can retain moisture. Even Japanese Bushi and collectors use a light oil and then powdered the sword to absorb any oil. |
| Good info in this thread. Many arms & armor museums use Renaissance Wax specifically (maybe it's just clever marketing on their part). Japanese swords are lightly coated with clove oil, but they are stored in a wooden sheath vs. in the open air, and if the oil is applied too heavily it can pool in the sheath and cause rust spots. So.... as suggested... some manner of wax is your best bet overall. |
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Quoted:
anybody use tuf cloth ? Tuf-Glide is what you use to renew Tuf-Cloth and is the best protection against rust for knives, firearms, etc. and it is recommended by many leading knife manufacturers. |
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