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Posted: 8/3/2026 4:16:35 PM EDT
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I have an older Mossberg 500 from the early 1980s if the J prefix is correct online. I plan on sawing it down for SBS project once the stamp is approved. Currently the rib of the barrel is coming loose at the top and several sections I want to keep are impacted. the barrel will need to be sanded for old finish and rattle-canned anyways Whats the best CHEAP and EASY method to attach the rib with minimal specialty tools? I don't have a welder but do have a propane torch |
PROUD AMMOSEXUAL
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
| I believe they are commonly soldered on, but what type and temp of solder I can't say. Since there should be solder in the joints already I think it would be fairly important to re-attach using a similar alloy and temp, unless you are completely removing it so you can clean the joints to the base metal first. |
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Originally Posted By JKinAZ: I believe they are commonly soldered on, but what type and temp of solder I can't say. Since there should be solder in the joints already I think it would be fairly important to re-attach using a similar alloy and temp, unless you are completely removing it so you can clean the joints to the base metal first. Would it be easier to remove the whole thing? Several sections have started to loosen after I started fiddling with it |
PROUD AMMOSEXUAL
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
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Digging around I've seen some forums suggest Loctite Black Max IF the rib comes off and you can clean really good https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/general-gunsmith-tools/adhesives-solder/black-max-adhesive/ |
PROUD AMMOSEXUAL
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
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Been thinking as I've been busy with many different things As I have to refinish/rattle can the barrel I could tack weld the rib to barrel Buddy of mine who welds said it can be done. That's my plan Good/bad idea? |
PROUD AMMOSEXUAL
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
| Typical welding is too hot and will warp the barrel, you want to silver soder the rib back on. This is one of the reasons welding isn't used on SxS rifles or shotguns, the barrel will warp under the heat and the barrels won't align and shoot at the same point. I would take it to a competent gunsmith shouldn't be that expesive of a repair. |
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Originally Posted By RogueSpear2023: Typical welding is too hot and will warp the barrel, you want to silver soder the rib back on. This is one of the reasons welding isn't used on SxS rifles or shotguns, the barrel will warp under the heat and the barrels won't align and shoot at the same point. I would take it to a competent gunsmith shouldn't be that expesive of a repair. Some ribs are attached with lead/ tin solder alloy vs silver soldering. Lead/tin has a lower melting point than silver solder so less time is spent heating a junction. Melting point for 63/37 or 60/40 is in the 360-420F range. |
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They make silver solder & brazing paste(s), I don't recall the name brands. High & low temp types. iirc high temp is like 1200⁰ or 1400⁰ to melt/flow. iirc you use an oxy setup to melt it. iirc it's what was suggested to be used to attach 4.25" tapco flash supressors on 12" amd barrels back when demilled ak kits were everywhere cheap. And low temp is 400⁰ or 500⁰ melting temp. I think the low temp is what is used on sights & ribs and whatever else you solder on a gun to keep from warping steel. Plain jane propane or mapp gas torch ought to get it flowing. |
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Totally forgot about this thread, sorry y'all Since traditional welding is out I will try the loctite black max If that don't work either rip the rib off and put heat shield on Or buy donor barrel somewhere and chop once the timing is right |
PROUD AMMOSEXUAL
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
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Originally Posted By Moondog: Some ribs are attached with lead/ tin solder alloy vs silver soldering. Lead/tin has a lower melting point than silver solder so less time is spent heating a junction. Melting point for 63/37 or 60/40 is in the 360-420F range. Good idea never thought of that. |
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