Quoted:
Sir, just a few comments regarding some of the responses already posted.  Like many of the others I do all bottle neck rifle brass prep apart from the Dillon RL550B on a single stage press.

If your resizing die includes a depriming rod with an expander ball when you lube the brass you need to ensure some lube gets inside the case neck to facilitate the passage of the expander ball.  (Not if you use a die with a carbide expander ball like the Dillon set.  I've resized over 18,000 .223 cases without any lube inside the neck with no squeaking or other issues)  While perhaps not the fastest method available I disagree that any of the spray lubes are better or faster than lubing with Imperial resizing wax.  When I lube with imperial the application step is part of the step that inserts the brass case into the press shell holder.  How anyone can consider an entirely separate step to lube the cases as being better or faster escapes me. Anyway as you pick up the brass rub your lubed fingers across the body of the case and neck as you insert it into the shell holder.

If you use a Dillon trimmer you'll have to deprime it in another step, use of a depriming die in stage one of the 550 tool head followed by resizing and trimming on stage two is a common means of accomplishing this.  (Nope, the trimmer will not fit in station #2, but rather it goes in station #3)  However if you have a different trimmer like a Giraud you can trim all brass after you have resized and deprimed it in a single step.  Some will tell you that you only need to trim the brass that exceeds 1.76".  While this is true I trim all brass to 1.758" to ensure that each piece of brass is as identical to another as I can possible make it.  (If you have your decapping / resizing die in station #1 and Dillon trimmer in station #3 of a separate toolhead, you apply case lube and run it through both.  Once set, the Dillon trimmer will trim all brass longer than it's set length and I, like you, trim mine shorter [1.755"] so that all cases are the same.)  If you are using military brass you'll also need to remove the primer crimp before you can reprime.  I recommend use of the Dillon Super Swager for the purpose.  After resizing, depriming, trimming, and swaging I tumble all brass in corn cob media to remove the lube.  I've found this works adequately to ensure the lube inside the case neck also is removed.

Finally I reprime all bress with a Sinclair hand priming tool.  Although some might consider it expensive it's the best hand priming tool on the market that I know of.  When I'm actually ready to reload the brass I start with an expander mandrel located in stage one of the Dillon 550 followed by my Redding 3BR powder measure in stage two.  The Dillon powder measure simply is not accurate enough for extruded powders.  Dillon mentions this in the Blue Press and recommends other powders but for purposes of my match ammo I use VV N540 which does not meter well in the Dillon powder measure.  If you want to use a powder measure besides the Dillon you'll have to buy an RL 450 powder die and adapter, Dillon Part Nos. F93-20308 and F93-20029 respectively.  I've found that crimping the loaded ammo in the final stage of loading is unnecessary if you have properly expanded the case neck ID to be .003" less than the bullet OD.  That's why I use an expander mandrel in the first stage of the Dillon press.  HTH, 7zero1.