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Pro chucker 5 mini review (Page 1 of 6)
Posted: 5/27/2015 11:28:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bm3][Edited]
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So we all know anytime something new comes out its gonna have a few kinks .
So far I have found 2 1 plastic parts that break , this is part of the priming system . 
2 my bullet feeder wont work with this press. I don't really care because I ordered the MR bullet feeder for all my cals anyway. 
The spent primer tube is pretty sweet , 
The die plates are held in by rotating them in place and then locking them down with 3 set screws. Very solid design. 
Here are some random pics of the shell holder and die plates. 
The press it's self is really plug and play in that it doesn't really have anything to adjust outside of dies and powder drop. The press is smooth and before I broke the priming system it ran great . One thing I really like it how the shell plate rotates , it will go fast or slow depending on how you operate it. Anyway that's all I have until I get all my parts in. I'll call RCBS about the priming system tomorrow and see what they say . Maybe they'll have a fix for it. |
| Well, after seeing that the primer slides are plastic I withdraw my comments about them being based on the S1050 from the other thread. That is really disappointing actually. I honestly wonder what will happen when you have a primer go off in the slide? The S1050 doesn't care from what I have seen since it is steel and you just drive on. |
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Always great to see new equipment - THANKS !!
The primer slide being plastic is (perhaps) one way to control the amount of pressure put on a primer if things somehow jam. Hornady uses a plastic support bracket on the primer slide cam rod . . . too much pressure and the bracket bends/breaks and/or the cam rod springs out of its pocket. With the press in front of you, I wonder if you can see any reason why RCBS design has the case head resting on the shell plate rather than the subplate? Using the subplate would seem to eliminate some manufacturing tolerances from stacking up against us lol.(ie, clearance between shell plate and subplate, and surface/thickness control on the shell plates.). What does the subplate look like without the shell plate? ETA: Nevermind lol, you show it in one of your photos . . . pretty clear why. |
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Originally Posted By jlficken:
Well, after seeing that the primer slides are plastic I withdraw my comments about them being based on the S1050 from the other thread. That is really disappointing actually. I honestly wonder what will happen when you have a primer go off in the slide? The S1050 doesn't care from what I have seen since it is steel and you just drive on. I talked to RCBS today about it. The said I'm the first and are sending me out more primer slides . I might make my own . |
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Originally Posted By Trollslayer:
Plastic = bad! Okay, there are few places plastic is the best choice but they are few, How accessible are the lock rings on a fully populated tool head? Will there be access when a 7 die tool head is used?? Plenty of room on the 5 , I won't know about the 7 until I convert. 
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I'm going to set the archive tab to keep this thread out of the archives. Well done OP. OP can always find this thread in the future under the My Topics tab. The rest of us will find it on the last couple of pages in this forum. |
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Ok I fixed the primer feeding issue with a different spring.
The spring that the press came with was being over stretched and sprung. Wen to home depot and got a bunch of springs, found one that works and now it runs like a champ . I think the spring was pulling to hard on the primer bar and putting pressure on the tab. 
I'll run some ammo tomorrow night and get back. |
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Originally Posted By bm3: Tried that lastnight. Didn't work. Originally Posted By bm3: Originally Posted By Kaldor: Worse come to worse with breaking the plastic tab off the primer slide. A guy could just take it, drill a hole and insert a roll pin in.  Tried that lastnight. Didn't work. Sounded like a good fix though. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Sounded like a good fix though. Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By Kaldor:
Worse come to worse with breaking the plastic tab off the primer slide. A guy could just take it, drill a hole and insert a roll pin in. Tried that lastnight. Didn't work. Sounded like a good fix though. The slide is just thin enough that the pin will break through after a few pulls. If it was metal it would work |
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Originally Posted By bm3:
The slide is just thin enough that the pin will break through after a few pulls. If it was metal it would work Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By Kaldor:
Worse come to worse with breaking the plastic tab off the primer slide. A guy could just take it, drill a hole and insert a roll pin in. Tried that lastnight. Didn't work. Sounded like a good fix though. The slide is just thin enough that the pin will break through after a few pulls. If it was metal it would work Worth a shot I guess. This piece should be steel or aluminum. |
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Originally Posted By bm3:
Ok I fixed the primer feeding issue with a different spring. The spring that the press came with was being over stretched and sprung. Wen to home depot and got a bunch of springs, found one that works and now it runs like a champ . I think the spring was pulling to hard on the primer bar and putting pressure on the tab. http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x332/Mike_Boles/5A672E46-F3CA-40CD-8FD5-DF59F8AC05BD_zpszrgqgmbo.jpg I'll run some ammo tomorrow night and get back. Interesting pic in how that spring 'wraps' around the primer tube and brackets - looks like something will wear over time in there from the movement - dunno if it'd be the spring, the primer tube, the primer tube bracket and/or the allen bolt, but interested to see in 1-2K rounds or so. Shouldn't be a big deal other than probably the spring becoming a 'consumable' item over time, as long as it doesn't wear down the primer tube. |
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Looking at the O.P. picture reposted below, it appears that the new presses copied the plastic ring around the subplate that holds the case keeper springs. Verify...plastic? When I bought my Pro 2000, they were rarer than hens teeth, the January after the first Obama election. So to get what I wanted I had to buy a manual-advance press and the auto-advance kit separately. I had to remove that plastic part and reattach it to the auto-advance subplate that came in the kit.
Bull in a china closet I was, when I retightened that ring and broke it at one of the tightening screws. Not a problem since in 6 years, but beware, don't over tighten that piece. More than likely you will not have to since when you upgrade to 7 stations they will supply a subplate with a different pre-assembled subplace and ring. (spring & keepers are steel of course)
BTW, was your breakage caused by something you were not supposed to do, or just a weak part? It would appear that that part will see heavy use and will need to be strong enough for that use....strange it would be plastic.....safety maybe? If so they will send you more than one, and will keep a huge supply for replacements....that's their MO. Your first picture shows two part one hole and one broken. They must have sent two with the press.....as you are still loading. Duh! one for small and one for large primers... 
The plastic circle was for cost savings....and since it doesn't move, it's fine. 
Notice the Zerk at the bottom....RCBS is into zerks now......my Summit has one too. Originally Posted By rtpguy:
Interesting pic in how that spring 'wraps' around the primer tube and brackets - looks like something will wear over time in there from the movement - dunno if it'd be the spring, the primer tube, the primer tube bracket and/or the allen bolt, but interested to see in 1-2K rounds or so. Shouldn't be a big deal other than probably the spring becoming a 'consumable' item over time, as long as it doesn't wear down the primer tube. In the top picture where the spring is stretched, it doesn't wrap.....only when it comes back. With the spring at rest it probably won't wear much. |
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
Looking at the O.P. picture reposted below, it appears that the new presses copied the plastic ring around the subplate that holds the case keeper springs. Verify...plastic? When I bought my Pro 2000, they were rarer than hens teeth, the January after the first Obama election. So to get what I wanted I had to buy a manual-advance press and the auto-advance kit separately. I had to remove that plastic part and reattach it to the auto-advance subplate that came in the kit. Bull in a china closet I was, when I retightened that ring and broke it at one of the tightening screws. Not a problem since in 6 years, but beware, don't over tighten that piece. More than likely you will not have to since when you upgrade to 7 stations they will supply a subplate with a different pre-assembled subplace and ring. (spring & keepers are steel of course)
BTW, was your breakage caused by something you were not supposed to do, or just a weak part? It would appear that that part will see heavy use and will need to be strong enough for that use....strange it would be plastic.....safety maybe? If so they will send you more than one, and will keep a huge supply for replacements....that's their MO. Your first picture shows two part one hole and one broken. They must have sent two with the press.....as you are still loading. Duh! one for small and one for large primers...
The plastic circle was for cost savings....and since it doesn't move, it's fine. http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x332/Mike_Boles/2281F3AB-914E-41EF-B8C1-B13371AF6066_zpsupschfn2.jpg Notice the Zerk at the bottom....RCBS is into zerks now......my Summit has one too. In the top picture where the spring is stretched, it doesn't wrap.....only when it comes back. With the spring at rest it probably won't wear much. Originally Posted By GWhis:
Looking at the O.P. picture reposted below, it appears that the new presses copied the plastic ring around the subplate that holds the case keeper springs. Verify...plastic? When I bought my Pro 2000, they were rarer than hens teeth, the January after the first Obama election. So to get what I wanted I had to buy a manual-advance press and the auto-advance kit separately. I had to remove that plastic part and reattach it to the auto-advance subplate that came in the kit. Bull in a china closet I was, when I retightened that ring and broke it at one of the tightening screws. Not a problem since in 6 years, but beware, don't over tighten that piece. More than likely you will not have to since when you upgrade to 7 stations they will supply a subplate with a different pre-assembled subplace and ring. (spring & keepers are steel of course)
BTW, was your breakage caused by something you were not supposed to do, or just a weak part? It would appear that that part will see heavy use and will need to be strong enough for that use....strange it would be plastic.....safety maybe? If so they will send you more than one, and will keep a huge supply for replacements....that's their MO. Your first picture shows two part one hole and one broken. They must have sent two with the press.....as you are still loading. Duh! one for small and one for large primers...
The plastic circle was for cost savings....and since it doesn't move, it's fine. http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x332/Mike_Boles/2281F3AB-914E-41EF-B8C1-B13371AF6066_zpsupschfn2.jpg Notice the Zerk at the bottom....RCBS is into zerks now......my Summit has one too. Originally Posted By rtpguy:
Interesting pic in how that spring 'wraps' around the primer tube and brackets - looks like something will wear over time in there from the movement - dunno if it'd be the spring, the primer tube, the primer tube bracket and/or the allen bolt, but interested to see in 1-2K rounds or so. Shouldn't be a big deal other than probably the spring becoming a 'consumable' item over time, as long as it doesn't wear down the primer tube. In the top picture where the spring is stretched, it doesn't wrap.....only when it comes back. With the spring at rest it probably won't wear much. Zerks are good. I actually sold one of my 550B's because it didn't have a zerk and my other one did as the syringe method is a PITA. Not needing 2 of them it was an easy choice which one to part with. |
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Originally Posted By bm3: The slide is just thin enough that the pin will break through after a few pulls. If it was metal it would work Originally Posted By bm3: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By bm3: Originally Posted By Kaldor: Worse come to worse with breaking the plastic tab off the primer slide. A guy could just take it, drill a hole and insert a roll pin in. Tried that lastnight. Didn't work. Sounded like a good fix though. The slide is just thin enough that the pin will break through after a few pulls. If it was metal it would work Probably designed as a plastic part so as to break first and not damage more expensive parts of the press. |
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
Looking at the O.P. picture reposted below, it appears that the new presses copied the plastic ring around the subplate that holds the case keeper springs. Verify...plastic? When I bought my Pro 2000, they were rarer than hens teeth, the January after the first Obama election. So to get what I wanted I had to buy a manual-advance press and the auto-advance kit separately. I had to remove that plastic part and reattach it to the auto-advance subplate that came in the kit. Bull in a china closet I was, when I retightened that ring and broke it at one of the tightening screws. Not a problem since in 6 years, but beware, don't over tighten that piece. More than likely you will not have to since when you upgrade to 7 stations they will supply a subplate with a different pre-assembled subplace and ring. (spring & keepers are steel of course)
BTW, was your breakage caused by something you were not supposed to do, or just a weak part? It would appear that that part will see heavy use and will need to be strong enough for that use....strange it would be plastic.....safety maybe? If so they will send you more than one, and will keep a huge supply for replacements....that's their MO. Your first picture shows two part one hole and one broken. They must have sent two with the press.....as you are still loading. Duh! one for small and one for large primers...
The plastic circle was for cost savings....and since it doesn't move, it's fine. http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x332/Mike_Boles/2281F3AB-914E-41EF-B8C1-B13371AF6066_zpsupschfn2.jpg Notice the Zerk at the bottom....RCBS is into zerks now......my Summit has one too. In the top picture where the spring is stretched, it doesn't wrap.....only when it comes back. With the spring at rest it probably won't wear much. Originally Posted By GWhis:
Looking at the O.P. picture reposted below, it appears that the new presses copied the plastic ring around the subplate that holds the case keeper springs. Verify...plastic? When I bought my Pro 2000, they were rarer than hens teeth, the January after the first Obama election. So to get what I wanted I had to buy a manual-advance press and the auto-advance kit separately. I had to remove that plastic part and reattach it to the auto-advance subplate that came in the kit. Bull in a china closet I was, when I retightened that ring and broke it at one of the tightening screws. Not a problem since in 6 years, but beware, don't over tighten that piece. More than likely you will not have to since when you upgrade to 7 stations they will supply a subplate with a different pre-assembled subplace and ring. (spring & keepers are steel of course)
BTW, was your breakage caused by something you were not supposed to do, or just a weak part? It would appear that that part will see heavy use and will need to be strong enough for that use....strange it would be plastic.....safety maybe? If so they will send you more than one, and will keep a huge supply for replacements....that's their MO. Your first picture shows two part one hole and one broken. They must have sent two with the press.....as you are still loading. Duh! one for small and one for large primers...
The plastic circle was for cost savings....and since it doesn't move, it's fine. http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x332/Mike_Boles/2281F3AB-914E-41EF-B8C1-B13371AF6066_zpsupschfn2.jpg Notice the Zerk at the bottom....RCBS is into zerks now......my Summit has one too. Originally Posted By rtpguy:
Interesting pic in how that spring 'wraps' around the primer tube and brackets - looks like something will wear over time in there from the movement - dunno if it'd be the spring, the primer tube, the primer tube bracket and/or the allen bolt, but interested to see in 1-2K rounds or so. Shouldn't be a big deal other than probably the spring becoming a 'consumable' item over time, as long as it doesn't wear down the primer tube. In the top picture where the spring is stretched, it doesn't wrap.....only when it comes back. With the spring at rest it probably won't wear much. Yes it's plastic just like the pro2000 but with this press it doesn't have to be removed for anything other than replacement ... The press comes with 2 small primer slides and 2 large primer slider. I broke both small slides . I must have had a bad spring , the new spring works great and now it works great. |
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Originally Posted By bm3:
It will run fine for that as long as you don't want to prime. Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By angus6:
So I'm thinking that setting it up to turn .223 in to 300blk with a RT1200 or 1500 is a no go It will run fine for that as long as you don't want to prime. Never heard of anyone priming and trimming .223 down to 300blk at the same time. Just looks as if toolhead is thicker then a Dillon tololhead which needs to be machined to trim 300blk, would like to see someone attempt to do it as I've got a buddy that's starting to get the itch for a new press |
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Originally Posted By angus6:
Never heard of anyone priming and trimming .223 down to 300blk at the same time. Just looks as if toolhead is thicker then a Dillon tololhead which needs to be machined to trim 300blk, would like to see someone attempt to do it as I've got a buddy that's starting to get the itch for a new press Originally Posted By angus6:
Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By angus6:
So I'm thinking that setting it up to turn .223 in to 300blk with a RT1200 or 1500 is a no go It will run fine for that as long as you don't want to prime. Never heard of anyone priming and trimming .223 down to 300blk at the same time. Just looks as if toolhead is thicker then a Dillon tololhead which needs to be machined to trim 300blk, would like to see someone attempt to do it as I've got a buddy that's starting to get the itch for a new press 1050 or bust |
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Originally Posted By bm3:
1050 or bust Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By angus6:
Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By angus6:
So I'm thinking that setting it up to turn .223 in to 300blk with a RT1200 or 1500 is a no go It will run fine for that as long as you don't want to prime. Never heard of anyone priming and trimming .223 down to 300blk at the same time. Just looks as if toolhead is thicker then a Dillon tololhead which needs to be machined to trim 300blk, would like to see someone attempt to do it as I've got a buddy that's starting to get the itch for a new press 1050 or bust Agreed. The lack of a case feeder for processing brass would make me go S1050 over the Pro Chucker. |
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Originally Posted By jlficken:
Agreed. The lack of a case feeder for processing brass would make me go S1050 over the Pro Chucker. Originally Posted By jlficken:
Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By angus6:
Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By angus6:
So I'm thinking that setting it up to turn .223 in to 300blk with a RT1200 or 1500 is a no go It will run fine for that as long as you don't want to prime. Never heard of anyone priming and trimming .223 down to 300blk at the same time. Just looks as if toolhead is thicker then a Dillon tololhead which needs to be machined to trim 300blk, would like to see someone attempt to do it as I've got a buddy that's starting to get the itch for a new press 1050 or bust Agreed. The lack of a case feeder for processing brass would make me go S1050 over the Pro Chucker. They have a case feeder coming out but if they can't get the priming system right I'll be moving in that direction. |
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bm3, you're braver than me. I'm not an early adopter for the most part....especially when it represents that much cash.
RCBS screwed up on the first rendition.......you got maybe the first one I've heard about. I betcha they will be (or most likely are already) working overtime to correct the flaw. They have too much invested in it. If the replacements fail, send it back, or ask them how they're going to fix it to last. The surprise for me is that they didn't see this coming. Surely they send a few machines out to employee's to test.....and .223 would be the logical rifle test. Originally Posted By angus6:
So I'm thinking that setting it up to turn .223 in to 300blk with a RT1200 or 1500 is a no go That would be the least worry for me......if I was into that process I'd make me one of these jmorris specials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mD2tugzRnD0 |
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If I had a broken one, I'd drill it with a 1/16" bit, slowly, almost all the way through at the pin location, and use a small screw to hold a piece of 1/8" brass tubing in place.
Because it's so thin, you don't have much to work with. If I had a new one, I'd drill through the pin into the body and use a roughed up piece of 1/16" steel pin and epoxy it in to see if that helps. The problem is drilling it can destroy that tiny pin, it's so weak. I'd make a jig out of wood to clamp the slide and support the pin. Amazon has some itsy bitsy drill bits for cheap if you want to use something smaller than 1/16"... 1mm would be good... http://www.amazon.com/20pcs-Twisted-Drilling-Electric-Drill/dp/B0051SRFOK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1433008389&sr=8-2&keywords=1mm+drill+bit Even a piece of a fat paper clip (1mm diameter) inserted would help. At least it would bend instead of snapping off... using your drilling jig to press the pin in place would help. Probably wouldn't even need any glue. |
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
bm3, you're braver than me. I'm not an early adopter for the most part....especially when it represents that much cash. RCBS screwed up on the first rendition.......you got maybe the first one I've heard about. I betcha they will be (or most likely are already) working overtime to correct the flaw. They have too much invested in it. If the replacements fail, send it back, or ask them how they're going to fix it to last. The surprise for me is that they didn't see this coming. Surely they send a few machines out to employee's to test.....and .223 would be the logical rifle test. That would be the least worry for me......if I was into that process I'd make me one of these jmorris specials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mD2tugzRnD0 Originally Posted By GWhis:
bm3, you're braver than me. I'm not an early adopter for the most part....especially when it represents that much cash. RCBS screwed up on the first rendition.......you got maybe the first one I've heard about. I betcha they will be (or most likely are already) working overtime to correct the flaw. They have too much invested in it. If the replacements fail, send it back, or ask them how they're going to fix it to last. The surprise for me is that they didn't see this coming. Surely they send a few machines out to employee's to test.....and .223 would be the logical rifle test. Originally Posted By angus6:
So I'm thinking that setting it up to turn .223 in to 300blk with a RT1200 or 1500 is a no go That would be the least worry for me......if I was into that process I'd make me one of these jmorris specials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mD2tugzRnD0 Myself I'm happy with my 1050 and autodrive for processing brass Not seeing why that slide needs to be plastic other then $$$ , think I'd make one out of brass if I really liked the press or return the press |
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Originally Posted By rtpguy:
Just saw they did give you two small primer slides and both were broken - that sucks. 
Are there any adjustments on the press to account for tolerances and adjusting the timing of the press, and/or the primer pickup system or primer depth? No timming adjustments . There is a primer seater adjustment also a minor adjustment to the slide to keep it straight . |
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Originally Posted By angus6:
Not seeing why that slide needs to be plastic other then $$$ , think I'd make one out of brass if I really liked the press or return the press Perhaps, what I would have liked to see is a bearing to ride up the rail, not a plastic stationary friction maker. |
 Mighty fine picture of the bright sunny day, your benches, your other presses........not quite as good of the primer depth adjustment screw! So the new press does adjust primer seating depth after all! That's a bit of additional sunshine!
The set screws to tighten the tool head would make it nice and square with the shell plate.....maybe....if they did a good job with those centering holes. The catch.....you gotta loosen set screws to remove a tool head....sigh. I think I would make long set screws with nurled tops for finger twisting.....and will if I every buy one of the Pros. |
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
Mighty fine picture of the bright sunny day, your benches, your other presses........not quite as good of the primer depth adjustment screw! So the new press does adjust primer seating depth after all! That's a bit of additional sunshine!
The set screws to tighten the tool head would make it nice and square with the shell plate.....maybe....if they did a good job with those centering holes. The catch.....you gotta loosen set screws to remove a tool head....sigh. I think I would make long set screws with nurled tops for finger twisting.....and will if I every buy one of the Pros. The tool head comes off way easer than the pro2000, I know because I just had it off looking at the machine burrs where the primer slide rides. I filed 3 burrs off and have successfully primed 100 pieces of 223. I hope that was it. |
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No chuckles from me on that feature.....they know a hell of a lot more about press design than I do. Lets wait and see what they say.
Originally Posted By bm3:
The tool head comes off way easer than the pro2000, I know because I just had it off looking at the machine burrs where the primer slide rides. I filed 3 burrs off and have successfully primed 100 pieces of 223. I hope that was it. Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By GWhis:
Mighty fine picture of the bright sunny day, your benches, your other presses........not quite as good of the primer depth adjustment screw! So the new press does adjust primer seating depth after all! That's a bit of additional sunshine!
The set screws to tighten the tool head would make it nice and square with the shell plate.....maybe....if they did a good job with those centering holes. The catch.....you gotta loosen set screws to remove a tool head....sigh. I think I would make long set screws with nurled tops for finger twisting.....and will if I every buy one of the Pros. The tool head comes off way easer than the pro2000, I know because I just had it off looking at the machine burrs where the primer slide rides. I filed 3 burrs off and have successfully primed 100 pieces of 223. I hope that was it. I shoulda kept to RCBS terms. Dillon tool heads are RCBS die plates. Sorry I started a confusion. Tool head just rolls off the lazy tongue easier. You are talking about the sub plate under the shell plate, right? I was talking about shell plates with set screws using up my "valuable" time compared to the old drop pins, Sorry.
We ought to start an RCBS save your tongue movement! DP and SP..........die plate and shell plate. ......dip or sip?.....brother, I need to take a nap....I'm in a fight with the flu this week. Stayed home from church today with a temp and a sinus headache complication.
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Pro chucker 5 mini review (Page 1 of 6)
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