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Link Posted: 11/28/2019 6:45:16 PM EST
Quick question. I’m looking for a L3 filmless white phosphor pvs14. Quotes I’ve gotten seem to vary quite a bit. Not all of them list the part number but I’m assuming they are all the same. DSG arms is the cheapest I’ve found so far with my discount. Any reason to not go with them?

https://dsgarms.com/night-thermal-sights-l3h-245620-037
Link Posted: 11/28/2019 7:57:39 PM EST
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Originally Posted By DrewDownAZ:
Quick question. I’m looking for a L3 filmless white phosphor pvs14. Quotes I’ve gotten seem to vary quite a bit. Not all of them list the part number but I’m assuming they are all the same.
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Just saying that something is an L3 unfilmed white tube does not describe it fully. L3 has a number of different ‘series’ of performance bins they categorize the tubes in, and more than just one of them includes filmless white. See this thread, which includes a few of the tables that L3 published showing how people come up with “20ua” or “22ua” as examples for the tube spec categories when advertising or selling their NV.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/L3-tube-rating-system-16um-18um-20um/18-482217/&page=1&anc=bottom#i4853271

I like to think of it kinda like the Omni levels that guys have classified their tubes in for a while now. Each level had its own minimum spec level. Nowadays most sellers seem to just say filmed or filmless, and if you are more particular about specs or blems you have to have that conversation directly with them. Most of the good guys are more than happy to have that chat rather than hide which tubes in particular you’re buying from them. It’s not like buying a lens for your camera where all the focal length and aperture specs are consistent. Each tube has its own makeup of something like a dozen specs and they’re all quite unique.
Link Posted: 11/28/2019 10:35:21 PM EST
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Originally Posted By jwramp:

Just saying that something is an L3 unfilmed white tube does not describe it fully. L3 has a number of different ‘series’ of performance bins they categorize the tubes in, and more than just one of them includes filmless white. See this thread, which includes a few of the tables that L3 published showing how people come up with “20ua” or “22ua” as examples for the tube spec categories when advertising or selling their NV.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/L3-tube-rating-system-16um-18um-20um/18-482217/&page=1&anc=bottom#i4853271

I like to think of it kinda like the Omni levels that guys have classified their tubes in for a while now. Each level had its own minimum spec level. Nowadays most sellers seem to just say filmed or filmless, and if you are more particular about specs or blems you have to have that conversation directly with them. Most of the good guys are more than happy to have that chat rather than hide which tubes in particular you’re buying from them. It’s not like buying a lens for your camera where all the focal length and aperture specs are consistent. Each tube has its own makeup of something like a dozen specs and they’re all quite unique.
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I understand that different manufacturing use various L3 tubes to build pvs14’s. But L3/EOTech also sells their own pvs14’s and that’s what I’m confused about. They only seem to make one unit that fits that criteria.
Link Posted: 11/28/2019 10:50:47 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/28/2019 10:55:29 PM EST by jwramp]
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Originally Posted By DrewDownAZ:

But L3/EOTech also sells their own pvs14’s and that’s what I’m confused about. They only seem to make one unit that fits that criteria.
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Gotcha, sorry I missed the question. Looks like even L3/EOTech’s product page for that SKU has the wrong description (for PVS-31a) and a broken link to the product sheet PDF here https://www.eotechgear.com/gen-iii-night-vision-monocular-an-pvs-14-m914a-white-phoshpor

Tough to say what tube they’ve selected for those ones or even if it’s a consistent one across all the ones they supply under that SKU. I bet one of the retailers that stocks them could get you more information on whether they come with spec sheets. I believe most of the retailers around here build their own from bare tubes, rather than getting the whole 14 straight from the factory complete.

ETA: If this is the same product, the specs are quite low for the money (res: 64, s/n: 21, FoM: 1344) and you’d be much better served by reaching out to one of the dealers around here to build you up a unit.
Link Posted: 11/28/2019 11:15:06 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By jwramp:

Gotcha, sorry I missed the question. Looks like even L3/EOTech’s product page for that SKU has the wrong description (for PVS-31a) and a broken link to the product sheet PDF here https://www.eotechgear.com/gen-iii-night-vision-monocular-an-pvs-14-m914a-white-phoshpor

Tough to say what tube they’ve selected for those ones or even if it’s a consistent one across all the ones they supply under that SKU. I bet one of the retailers that stocks them could get you more information on whether they come with spec sheets. I believe most of the retailers around here build their own from bare tubes, rather than getting the whole 14 straight from the factory complete.

ETA: If this is the same product, the specs are quite low for the money (res: 64, s/n: 21, FoM: 1344) and you’d be much better served by reaching out to one of the dealers around here to build you up a unit.
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Thank you very much for the help. I will call dsg and ask.
Link Posted: 12/13/2019 12:08:30 PM EST
Here is what the L3 dealer told me about the L3 tubes used in the factory L3 pvs14. In case anyone else is interested



Hey, the best measure of a tube is called FOM, or figure of merit. It is determined by the multiplication of the Line Pairs Per Millimeter and the Signal to Noise Ratio. Anything above 1800 is very usable in a tactical environment. L3 is consistently manufacturing tubes with FOM in excessive of 2376, which is the best on the market. The tubes purchased by TNVC or any other company to use in the own builds are seconds, as L3 saves the best tubes for themselves and their military and L.E. customers. That is not to say that the tubes TNVC buys are no very good also, you just need to ask for specific details about which is the minimum FOM and what kind of defects (Black spots) and what the sizes and locations are.

I can tell you it is very hard for me to get an L3 PVS-14 right now, I have about 28 on back order from as far back as May of this year and do not expect them until February.”
Link Posted: 12/13/2019 12:37:54 PM EST
Btw I’m not accusing tnvs of using blems or seconds. Just relaying what I was told. I’m going to try and see if I can simply verify the spec on the one I’m ordering before it ships.
Link Posted: 12/29/2019 8:44:26 PM EST
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Originally Posted By DrewDownAZ:
Btw I’m not accusing tnvs of using blems or seconds. Just relaying what I was told. I’m going to try and see if I can simply verify the spec on the one I’m ordering before it ships.
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I just got my PVS-14 that I ordered from TNVC. It has very high specs and no blems. I would not be afraid at all to get one from them.
Link Posted: 1/5/2020 4:28:40 PM EST
So, I’m Perry new to the NVD game, and made a purchase at the beginning of December (Pvs-14 autogated with Norotos AKA2 dovetail on revision caiman). I have just a few questions that I can’t seem to find a straight answer for anywhere.

When I first turn the unit on before it does what seems to be a warm up, if I see any bright lights (I live in an urban environment), it will leave a faint black streak. I know this is a depletion and is only temporary, but am I damaging my tube?

Also, as stated, I do live in an urban environment so there’s only so many places I can go that have near to no light. Even though my unit is autogated, am I in danger of ruining my tubes by walking past street lights/semi lit areas?

Thanks for any input, and they may be stupid questions but I saved to get the unit I wanted and don’t want to ruin it out of ignorance.
Link Posted: 1/26/2020 12:08:42 PM EST
I hope this is a correct thread for this question; complete newbie, what a subject to start researching. There was a very interesting ARCHIVED thread awhile back discussing the -7 vs. -14 pros/cons. I thank all that contributed to that. Following info up front:

1. I've NEVER shot using NODs. Only thing previously familiar with was the Griffith Park Observatory the Army called a Starlight scope so that will give you some idea of my age. ;)
2. I'm still weighing cost/use/benefit of 7 vs. 14 as there are some other considerations.
3. Have a phenomenal optometrist that has worked with over some things when I was shooting competitively, fine tuning correction for acuity. That said, he still advises that depth perception as well as peripheral vision are excellent.

I'm extremely comfortable shooting an RDS (and even some low-powered scopes) both eyes open. It's a natural thing for me. So here is the question that relates to use of a PVS-14, not ever having done it:

Assume right-handed shooter. If the -14 is mounted such that the L eye is looking through it, and the other is open to the NV-capable RDS, does that work? For those that have shot RDS with a -14 WITHOUT a separate IR pointer but using their RDS, is that a workable method? For those that have used both -7 and -14, is it just easier to use a -7 and a laser pointer and forget about the RDS under those conditions? Hope the question is clear enough.

Caveat: I'm a retired kulak doin' OK, but still a kulak - so don't say "buy both" 'cause I have to save for stuff.
Thanks you!
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