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Posted: 7/28/2016 10:37:46 PM EDT
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Why not build it in place and fix the height as to what is comfortable standing.
You want the height to be such that your arm is almost extended with the press handle all the way down. This height will allow you to stand and reload or sit on a bar stool. I use the Inline Fabrication Ergo handle on my press. I am 6'3" tall and my bench is at 39" off the floor. |
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Quoted:
Ah hahahaha, You my friend are thorough. The only thing is to make sure the thing is extremely rigid. Tie into the wall if possible! Then none of this will matter. Just don't want to waste a bunch of wood working through things. Foam core is a lot cheaper than lumber. |
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I like you mock up. One suggestion I would make is ditch the pegboard. Use that space for shelf's to store bullets and other stuff. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Bench/IMG_0314.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Bench/IMG_0314.jpg</a> My bench. I agree. The pegboard mocks up nicely but in real life shelves and drawers combined with plastic bins and a small parts container are much more useful. Interesting concept though with the adjustable height. |
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Awesome mock up. But if I had to use that space to reload, I would build it into the space. A loading bench needs to be solid first. If you really want height adjustment design some track style adjustment into the wall.
And consider a dedicated, solid shelf for the powder measure. But if you really want your design to work, you will have to secure it to the wall somehow. |
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That's a nice design, and note the 1 1/2 inch thick top. Very important to not have flex in your bench top. Especially if using a progressive press. |
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I don't like your plans at all. They make me sad.
What is the platform at the bottom for? It looks too small to place a stool on without fear of falling off. Standing up will also be a problem, as there is not enough room to stand. You don't need a platform at all, ditch it, stand or sit on the perfectly good floor that is there. Adjustable height table top will likely be rickety and overly complex. Ditch it and anchor the bench to the studs for rock solid stability. The legs extending above the work surface...ditch them, especially the ones in the front. They diminish your already small work surface and won't be needed when the tabletop is fixed. Mount a couple of sturdy shelves above the work surface for storage. I would lag 2x4s to the sides and back of the alcove, cut a top from butcher block counter material or doubled up 3/4" plywood and screw it down. Dead simple, no legs, no base, no obstructions, cheap and easy. |
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You could add plywood sides and back to the lower portion. It would be more effective than just a diagonal brace. +1 Most people dont realize how important external home sheathing is in stability of home. People put additions on homes (including mine) turning formerly external walls into internal walls and they wonder why their new drywall cracks no matter how many cross pieces they put inside wall. I had to rip out the wallboard and put plywood back on. Not a crack since. Basically the same principle with this bench. OP, I am not sure I understand what the roof is for? Planning to hang something? |
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I take no offense to your comments. However, allow me to explain: Quoted:
I don't like your plans at all. They make me sad. What is the platform at the bottom for? It looks too small to place a stool on without fear of falling off. Standing up will also be a problem, as there is not enough room to stand. I was thinking that the platform could store my range box and ammo cans and that stuff would help weigh down the bench; the reason it sticks out is because I thought it might help keep the bench from wanting to tip forward when the press handle was pulled. You don't need a platform at all, ditch it, stand or sit on the perfectly good floor that is there. Adjustable height table top will likely be rickety and overly complex. Ditch it and anchor the bench to the studs for rock solid stability. The legs extending above the work surface...ditch them, especially the ones in the front. They diminish your already small work surface and won't be needed when the tabletop is fixed. They hold up the peg board and the top shelf on which I was going to put stuff on top and put a 24" fluorescent fixture in the underside. Mount a couple of sturdy shelves above the work surface for storage. I would lag 2x4s to the sides and back of the alcove, cut a top from butcher block counter material or doubled up 3/4" plywood and screw it down. Dead simple, no legs, no base, no obstructions, cheap and easy. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to put any holes in the walls but I guess, in the long run, it'll be cheaper, better, and easier to build it as you and others are suggesting. Patching a few plaster holes a few years down the road will be less hassle than building this thing anyway. Thanks everybody. |
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