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Posted: 11/12/2014 1:47:26 PM EDT
| So just picked one up yesterday and it is my first one. It makes me laugh every time I say it but it is the Master Beta system (doesn't get old). Any thoughts? I have never chronographed but always wanted to. now that I am getting into subs I figured now is the best time. Any opinions would be great! |
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Mine was great for years. Then it accused me of cheating on a major loading for USPSA. So I shot it.
Use the sky screens, even when they are not needed. Pretty sure that shortcut cost me 100.00. They make a great aiming guide. And I barely clipped mine, but I clipped one of the sensors. |
I have the Alpha version and it works fine. I have learned it's picky about placement from the muzzle (10 feet or so) or it gives bad readings. First time I set it up it was only 6ft or so from the muzzle. I was shocked to see my bullet was going well over 3000 fps. This was an 8mm mauser load with a 198g bullet. I moved the unit farther from the muzzle and it started reading correctly, ~2400 fps.
Make sure you have the bore of the gun above the unit itself. Many have shot their chrony due to scope height above the bore thinking they would clear the unit. Another tip is to use wooden dowell rods instead of the metal ones for the sky screens. That way if you hit one it just shatters and doesn't hurt the unit. |
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Quoted:
I have the Alpha version and it works fine. I have learned it's picky about placement from the muzzle (10 feet or so) or it gives bad readings. First time I set it up it was only 6ft or so from the muzzle. I was shocked to see my bullet was going well over 3000 fps. This was an 8mm mauser load with a 198g bullet. I moved the unit farther from the muzzle and it started reading correctly, ~2400 fps.
Make sure you have the bore of the gun above the unit itself. Many have shot their chrony due to scope height above the bore thinking they would clear the unit. Another tip is to use wooden dowell rods instead of the metal ones for the sky screens. That way if you hit one it just shatters and doesn't hurt the unit. Thanks for the heads up! |
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When shooting over skyscreens there is ONE RULE: Do not attempt to simultaneously shoot at a target. Shoot only through the middle of the screens, and let the bullets go wherever they go. As soon as you try to aim at a target while also shooting over the screens, you will shoot the screens. Mark my words. Also heed the warning against using in direct sunlight. Screens will rarely work in direct sunlight. Yes, the name of the device is beyond idiotic. <removed> this is a technical forum. dryflash3 |
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Good luck with "wooden" rods for supporting the screens.
When you snap one off inside the slots that hold the rods, what do you do then? Dont' shoot the damn rods, and you won't have to worry about this! If the manufacturer thought wooden rods were a good idea, don't you think they would sell them? ...especially if the wooden rods were something they could count on selling to you multiple times? |
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LMAO Quoted: When shooting over skyscreens there is ONE RULE: Do not attempt to simultaneously shoot at a target. Shoot only through the middle of the screens, and let the bullets go wherever they go. As soon as you try to aim at a target while also shooting over the screens, you will shoot the screens. Mark my words. Also heed the warning against using in direct sunlight. Screens will rarely work in direct sunlight. Yes, the name of the device is beyond idiotic. <removed> this is a technical forum. dryflash3 |
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Don't be afraid to use the metal rods, unless you are using a pistol.
I have the F1 version mounted on a camera tripod. Measure 10 feet from the muzzle. 1. Put target at desired distance 2.use sand bags for a rest and eyeball it to get close 3. Use a laser bore sighter and let the gun rest on the bags dead center of your target. 4. Turn bore sighter on and adjust the chrono height using some cardboard and the bore sighter to see the bullet path through the rods. This has always worked great for me |
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I made a base for mine, and use wooden dowels inserted into the base, instead of the chrony. If I shoot a dowel, I can either replace it, or if necessary drill out the hole in the base. Attaching them to the plastic sensor housing via metal rods cost me a chronograph. I highly recommend the IR sky screens. That's all I use now. The other advantage of my base is that it since the dowels are true vertical the IR sky screens are flat. I'll try to post some pics up of my base.
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Quoted:
Don't be afraid to use the metal rods, unless you are using a pistol. I have the F1 version mounted on a camera tripod. Measure 10 feet from the muzzle. 1. Put target at desired distance 2.use sand bags for a rest and eyeball it to get close 3. Use a laser bore sighter and let the gun rest on the bags dead center of your target. 4. Turn bore sighter on and adjust the chrono height using some cardboard and the bore sighter to see the bullet path through the rods. This has always worked great for me I have a lead sled, never thought of a bore sighted though |
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I have the Beta Master that has the remote and for me it's worth every penny that remote.
Put tape on the rods above the joints to aim at as a elevation indicator. Also if the sunny weather is giving errors get hockey puck led lights from HF and tape/Velcro/rubberband them to the sky screens. Works every time. Remember the club no one what's to join starts here. Ones who have shot their Chrony and Ones that haven't shot their Chronys yet. Stay out of the I shot my Chrony club. Aim high. |
| It's better than the one you had before buying one. I have the red one long term borrowed so I just write the data down. A pencil is pretty cheap. I put mine as far out as I can with the screen still stable on whatever "bench" I'm using. I figure if I consistently put it out as far as it will go I'm getting a consistent reading. I've actually found some loads in my guns are faster than published value. Unless you start doing competition you'll be fine. If you get into competition I'd buy the chronograph they use. |
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If your loading your own ammo... Some kind of Chrony is a necessity.
Without one you have only half an idea of how good/bad you ammo is performing. As far as reloading accessories go... $100 is money well spent. The factory isn't far from where I live. Both times mine has been shot (don't lend yours out) I took it in and they just handed me a new one. 'Good customer service I'd say. |
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If your loading your own ammo... Some kind of Chrony is a necessity. Without one you have only half an idea of how good/bad you ammo is performing. As far as reloading accessories go... $100 is money well spent. The factory isn't far from where I live. Both times mine has been shot (don't lend yours out) I took it in and they just handed me a new one. 'Good customer service I'd say. I have an original Shooting Chrony from before they had different models. It used cardboard screens that fit in slots. It is over 20 years old and still functions accurately. I now use the new screens and they work fine. Had to drill some small holes next to the slots. It is obviously very durable to hold up so well for so long. It appears identical to the basic folding model they sell today. |
| I find the remote screen really valuable for two reasons. First, it gives me an easy, repeatable measurement from where I'm at to the chrony (just walk the chrony out until the cable is 'taut'), and second, I can put the screen right next to me for easy reading. |
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Quoted:
I find the remote screen really valuable for two reasons. First, it gives me an easy, repeatable measurement from where I'm at to the chrony (just walk the chrony out until the cable is 'taut'), and second, I can put the screen right next to me for easy reading. For $30 more I thought the remote was a no brainer |
| I got one without the remote (it was a gift) and while it's limited to the basic functions, it works fine for my needs. I mounted mine using a spottiing scope stand and mount that I had from shooting highpower, and cut a piece of 550 cord 15' long; I get my rifle set up on its rest (unloaded, bolt locked back) and then use a spring clamp to put one end of the string on the flash hider. Stretch the string out and put the chrony at the other end. It's close enough that the screen is very easy to read, even without the remote. Just have to pause after each shot to write down the result. |
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I like the blue Master Beta version with the remote computer better as it's on the bench so you can reach it and also so if you hit the sensor, you only have to replace it and not the whole unit. Use plastic soda straws and place a black tape band 4" and 6" up each one to give you a reference point to aim through. 4" for regular iron sights and 6" for scopes and AR sights. The tape will give you an aiming plane so you won't shoot your chrono and if you hit a straw you won't break the sensor like you will with the steel rods (ask me how I know). Bring a couple spare straws with you in case you hit one. For a screen, fold a piece of paper in thirds the long way and then tape it to the top of each straw. Light weight and cheap to replace. |
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Quoted:
I like the blue Master Beta version with the remote computer better as it's on the bench so you can reach it and also so if you hit the sensor, you only have to replace it and not the whole unit. Use plastic soda straws and place a black tape band 4" and 6" up each one to give you a reference point to aim through. 4" for regular iron sights and 6" for scopes and AR sights. The tape will give you an aiming plane so you won't shoot your chrono and if you hit a straw you won't break the sensor like you will with the steel rods (ask me how I know). Bring a couple spare straws with you in case you hit one. For a screen, fold a piece of paper in thirds the long way and then tape it to the top of each straw. Light weight and cheap to replace. So using an eotech exps 3, so six inches up from the where the rods go in? |
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Quoted:
So using an eotech exps 3, so six inches up from the where the rods go in? Quoted:
Quoted:
I like the blue Master Beta version with the remote computer better as it's on the bench so you can reach it and also so if you hit the sensor, you only have to replace it and not the whole unit. Use plastic soda straws and place a black tape band 4" and 6" up each one to give you a reference point to aim through. 4" for regular iron sights and 6" for scopes and AR sights. The tape will give you an aiming plane so you won't shoot your chrono and if you hit a straw you won't break the sensor like you will with the steel rods (ask me how I know). Bring a couple spare straws with you in case you hit one. For a screen, fold a piece of paper in thirds the long way and then tape it to the top of each straw. Light weight and cheap to replace. So using an eotech exps 3, so six inches up from the where the rods go in? You have to keep two measurements in mind; the ideal spot for the bullet to pass over the sensors is (going from memory, but your owner's manual will tell you) between 4-6" over the unit. And your AR has about 2-2.5" between the centerline of the bore and your red dot. I put tape on the screen supports at the low and high ends of the "ideal" zone for bullets, and if I'm using an AR, I just remember to aim at the upper end of it to allow for the offset. |
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Makes sense, thanks!
Quoted:
You have to keep two measurements in mind; the ideal spot for the bullet to pass over the sensors is (going from memory, but your owner's manual will tell you) between 4-6" over the unit. And your AR has about 2-2.5" between the centerline of the bore and your red dot. I put tape on the screen supports at the low and high ends of the "ideal" zone for bullets, and if I'm using an AR, I just remember to aim at the upper end of it to allow for the offset. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I like the blue Master Beta version with the remote computer better as it's on the bench so you can reach it and also so if you hit the sensor, you only have to replace it and not the whole unit. Use plastic soda straws and place a black tape band 4" and 6" up each one to give you a reference point to aim through. 4" for regular iron sights and 6" for scopes and AR sights. The tape will give you an aiming plane so you won't shoot your chrono and if you hit a straw you won't break the sensor like you will with the steel rods (ask me how I know). Bring a couple spare straws with you in case you hit one. For a screen, fold a piece of paper in thirds the long way and then tape it to the top of each straw. Light weight and cheap to replace. So using an eotech exps 3, so six inches up from the where the rods go in? You have to keep two measurements in mind; the ideal spot for the bullet to pass over the sensors is (going from memory, but your owner's manual will tell you) between 4-6" over the unit. And your AR has about 2-2.5" between the centerline of the bore and your red dot. I put tape on the screen supports at the low and high ends of the "ideal" zone for bullets, and if I'm using an AR, I just remember to aim at the upper end of it to allow for the offset. |
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Yes.
I've compared mine side by side with an Oehler and the difference was negligible. You should have bought the most basic version however, but since you didn't, I recommend a printer so the controls are on buttons a little nearer to something that is intuitive. |
| I have an F1, and use a laptop as a remote display following these instructions. I picked up the serial to USB cable assembly off of Amazon for $5, then used a spare 10' 1/8" headphone cable. |
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Quoted:
When shooting over skyscreens there is ONE RULE: Do not attempt to simultaneously shoot at a target. Shoot only through the middle of the screens, and let the bullets go wherever they go. As soon as you try to aim at a target while also shooting over the screens, you will shoot the screens. Mark my words. Also heed the warning against using in direct sunlight. Screens will rarely work in direct sunlight. <removed> this is a technical forum. dryflash3 I've done this for YEARS and have had other shooters shoot through my Chrony doing the same thing... it's quite simple to PAY ATTENTION. As for the wood rods... been doing that for YEARS too... 
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