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Posted: 7/7/2015 9:11:01 PM EDT
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I live in the flatland's, lots of nothing between us and the next nothing, no real hills and such & can see the horizon any given day. Now in town it's typical homes, medium to high density neighborhoods. However, we do travel/camp out in the boonies and tend to go up into the Colorado mountains.
Been thinking about getting some kind of Infrared light to hang on my helmet for use with a PVS 14, (Gen3) but have never used any kind of IR light before and not sure if they are worth the money & don't want to go cheap & get a POS one that also emits visible light. Are IR lights either helmet or weapon mounted worth getting, here again want something that can take some abuse and won't break if dropped & what's the range on such animals? |
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They help when it's cloudy/overcast (i.e. fukin dark). For outside use, a weapon light or handheld light (not the small ones)...whatever your use, works good for longer distances. They are kind of too bright when your shining on objects that are close in (such as in a house). For places such as inside a house, a helmet mouneed IR light is handy when it's super dark. They usually don't have as much output as weapon lights and bugger handheld lights. When I was in Iraq, the only helmet light I had was a Surefire, which it didn't have an IR light. Instead, I just used the light that was on my PVS-14s. It worked good and I could see pretty good inside buildings when it was pitch black. |
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I keep buying Surefire 952V lights on eBay. They have a rotating bezel to select white light or IR LED source, use 2 CR123 batteries and usually come with a pressure switch. The butt cap has a thumb switch that is momentary if half-pressed or if fully "clicked" locks on or off. Genuine weapon lights rated for recoil, I have used them on shotguns and rifles and have one on my helmet. Yes, they are large, but they don't cost $400.
Most seem to be tan, which suits me fine because black would require camo. These have a built-in quick release picatinny mount which is removable with a hex wrench if you prefer it just be a flashlight.. For the money and features, I have never found a better used light and have several. I usually pay about $150 for used ones, delivered. The "V" suffix in Surefire lights usually means selectable IR and white light built into the head. If you are unfamiliar with these, be careful to avoid the similar models with differing mounts and with incandescent bulbs. A few looks at Google images will clear up the differences for you. |
| One of my favorite hunting setups for IR lights is a Surefire M1 IR Illuminator in a VTAC light mount on side of a helmet. It reaches out to about 75-100 yards effectively. This is a perfect distance for a night vision goggle. The M1 is also very small and lightweight. |
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I keep buying Surefire 952V lights on eBay. They have a rotating bezel to select white light or IR LED source, use 2 CR123 batteries and usually come with a pressure switch. The butt cap has a thumb switch that is momentary if half-pressed or if fully "clicked" locks on or off. Genuine weapon lights rated for recoil, I have used them on shotguns and rifles and have one on my helmet. Yes, they are large, but they don't cost $400. Most seem to be tan, which suits me fine because black would require camo. These have a built-in quick release picatinny mount which is removable with a hex wrench if you prefer it just be a flashlight.. For the money and features, I have never found a better used light and have several. I usually pay about $150 for used ones, delivered. The "V" suffix in Surefire lights usually means selectable IR and white light built into the head. If you are unfamiliar with these, be careful to avoid the similar models with differing mounts and with incandescent bulbs. A few looks at Google images will clear up the differences for you. Even if you do get an incandescent one you can toss an 8$ ir led in there and be gtg 
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They help when it's cloudy/overcast (i.e. fukin dark). For outside use, a weapon light or handheld light (not the small ones)...whatever your use, works good for longer distances. They are kind of too bright when your shining on objects that are close in (such as in a house). For places such as inside a house, a helmet mouneed IR light is handy when it's super dark. They usually don't have as much output as weapon lights and bugger handheld lights. When I was in Iraq, the only helmet light I had was a Surefire, which it didn't have an IR light. Instead, I just used the light that was on my PVS-14s. It worked good and I could see pretty good inside buildings when it was pitch black. The IR light on my helmet mounted Streamlight Sidewinder is as bright as the IR light on my PVS-14s at the Sidewinder's low setting. On high it is brighter but not too overpowering for indoor use. I just got in an IR/Vis. Inforce WML. Not sure how far it stretches out to yet but I think I'll like using it as a wide area IR illuminator. The IR on the WML was able to illuminate my field of view thru my PVS-14 last night. |
| I run a Streamlight Sidewinder COmpact II on one side and an (gasp) ATN IR450 on the other side. The Sidewinder gets used a lot. The ATN has adjustable power levels and spot-flood adjustability. It'll put a tight beam out to 150 or 200 yards, or a low powered flood light. I'm very happy with the combo. Oh, the ATN's center can be adjusted up/down, R/L too to be centered on your 14, which I find very handy. |
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For weapon lights I use the Surefiee M952v for spotting , or in dark spaces like my barn or around tree areas or if vegetation is too thick for the moonlight / starlight
I bought my M952V used for $100 The great thing about the M952V is its not to powerful for indoor use I have a couple cheap ultrafire lights IR I helmet mount more as disposable I've yet to break one though so far These are around $10 there beater lights or loaners If you want straight power though check out the Evolva T20 IR torch it has a Osram IR Led It's built extremely well and it's actually very small for the power it packs I can easily beam out 500-600 meters and light up whole tree lines like a through on a floodlight across fields it can be had for 36$ on Amazon It has a adjustable lens to flood or throw the beam with 3 power settings Puts out a square LED pattern I mount it in a 1inch mount and it takes a recharge 18650 or 2-CR-123A batteries It has great runtime also Guys looking for power on budget should definitely Check this light out I have 3 of these they are very very durable and have a great warranty |
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One of my favorite hunting setups for IR lights is a Surefire M1 IR Illuminator in a VTAC light mount on side of a helmet. It reaches out to about 75-100 yards effectively. This is a perfect distance for a night vision goggle. The M1 is also very small and lightweight. Does your setup still have an illuminator mounted on your helmet if your gun has something like an ATPIAL-C mounted? |
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Lots of really good ideas, I'm waffling between the SureFire M952v and the Surefire M1 IR/VTAC mount for the helmet, in a perfect world the light would operate on AA's same as PVS 14 so I don't need to stock/carry a 2nd style of battery. The M952V is bulky and heavy for a helmet you'll prefer the the Surefire M1 IR/VTAC The M952V is a great weapon light Unless you have a Gov/LE restricted laser/illuminator the illumination on most lasers is not very impressive stick with a IR LED if you wanting some good range |
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The M952V is bulky and heavy for a helmet you'll prefer the the Surefire M1 IR/VTAC The M952V is a great weapon light Unless you have a Gov/LE restricted laser/illuminator the illumination on most lasers is not very impressive stick with a IR LED if you wanting some good range Quoted:
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Lots of really good ideas, I'm waffling between the SureFire M952v and the Surefire M1 IR/VTAC mount for the helmet, in a perfect world the light would operate on AA's same as PVS 14 so I don't need to stock/carry a 2nd style of battery. The M952V is bulky and heavy for a helmet you'll prefer the the Surefire M1 IR/VTAC The M952V is a great weapon light Unless you have a Gov/LE restricted laser/illuminator the illumination on most lasers is not very impressive stick with a IR LED if you wanting some good range This is the truth. The M952V is awesome on a gun, but it is way too big and bulky on a helmet for my tastes. I really think the M1 is your huckleberry. We move a ton of them just for this purpose. |
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I keep buying Surefire 952V lights on eBay. I usually pay about $150 for used ones, delivered. me too! (although I've been getting them for less than $160 NEW in BOX) love mine... 
it's a no bullshit weaponlight as stated above.. I just used silicone to adhere the pressure switch to a black UTG soft plastic rail cover and it works great HERE's one on EBAY for HELMET mount, I usually just use a beacon like VIPIR Mockingbird I like the mockingbird because the IR blink rate/pattern can be customized using any IR light source (so you wont have to guess who's on the other side of the field..) 
I also have a few E-Lights (China/airsoft version of the V-Light by S&S Precision ) 
the IR version is all over Ebay for around $15/ea (they have an on/off/blink switch, but the battery is NOT user replaceable, so when they're dead, they're trash) or an MS-2000 marker like several people have shown above.. |
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One of my favorite hunting setups for IR lights is a Surefire M1 IR Illuminator in a VTAC light mount on side of a helmet. It reaches out to about 75-100 yards effectively. This is a perfect distance for a night vision goggle. The M1 is also very small and lightweight. How does the Surefire M1 compare against the V1 Vampire, the V2 Vampire and your TNVC Torch PRO Infrared Illuminator when using your TNV/PVS-14 L3 Gen3 OMNI VIII? Not having seen any of them in use, it just seems the small M1 Illuminator seems like it's not putting off much IR, not to mention the others have the ability to switch to white light when needed vs IR only. If I was to go with the MI Illuminator, what would you recommend for a white lite on the other side of the helm for admin duties as well as general purpose white light usage. |
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How does the Surefire M1 compare against the V1 Vampire, the V2 Vampire and your TNVC Torch PRO Infrared Illuminator when using your TNV/PVS-14 L3 Gen3 OMNI VIII? Not having seen any of them in use, it just seems the small M1 Illuminator seems like it's not putting off much IR, not to mention the others have the ability to switch to white light when needed vs IR only. If I was to go with the MI Illuminator, what would you recommend for a white lite on the other side of the helm for admin duties as well as general purpose white light usage. Those different illuminators all have different ranges, and therefore different purposes. I have been running M1's on my helmets for years, and they work great for that purpose. They have the "crispest" beam of any IR illuminator that I have seen. I also have a few Vampires and a Torch Pro. No single illuminator does everything well due to size / weight and blooming if it is too bright for the usage. I don't run a white light on my helmets, but often have a small red light in my pocket. 
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NV noob checking in and this thread caught my eye.
I have a few options I'm considering: 1) I have an old Surefire G2 Nitrolon that I was thinking about upgrading to LED, but don't see any obvious IR LED conversions out there. If I stayed with the 65 Lumen white light is that going to still be too bright for my NV? Would a red filter at least cut that down a bit? Putting on an actual IR filter would be about 2x the cost of the actual light itself but still be under the cost of a new M1. Advantage would be that I'd have the ability to switch to white light if I wanted to do so. 2) I have a new Surefire G2X on my 300BLK SBR that I'll typically be using at night for hunting. It looks like it would be pretty expensive to upgrade it to IR. 3) Buy a new light, either weapon mount like a Streamlight w/laser, or perhaps get the M1 illuminator and weapon mount for now, and then if I ever go the way of a helmet or head mount put it on there. |
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Cool! Would you mind emailing me? Quoted:
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You can buy the pills and reflectors for that light (p6 style) and build a drop in with an oslon osram ir led. I could even walk you through the steps or build it for ya. Cool! Would you mind emailing me? I think you can use the 20 dollar on ebay P60 IR drop ins. Get the 850nm wave length one. |
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Went with the Surefire M1 in a Viking Tac light mount & mounted it on the left side of the bravo bump helmet, it's angled a little "funky" but not bad, still not figured out if I like the PVS in the right eye or left, I'm right eye dominate but left eye seems to work better with the J arm and Rhino mount as far as adjusting & getting it aligned best....
I forgot how narrow your field of vision is using NV, talking a bit of getting accustomed to, going on a road trip at night, wonder how stupid of me it would be to drive with the PVS 14 
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| Great choice, M1 Vtac mount is also my setup. I see Clasky steered you in the right direction. I was gifted a brand new M1 by a friend who didn't have NV. I was pleasantly surprised how well it works for such a small light. The Surfire helmet light is practically useless as a IR illuminator on anything out of arms reach. |
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Went with the Surefire M1 in a Viking Tac light mount & mounted it on the left side of the bravo bump helmet, it's angled a little "funky" but not bad, still not figured out if I like the PVS in the right eye or left, I'm right eye dominate but left eye seems to work better with the J arm and Rhino mount as far as adjusting & getting it aligned best.... I forgot how narrow your field of vision is using NV, talking a bit of getting accustomed to, going on a road trip at night, wonder how stupid of me it would be to drive with the PVS 14 I see the so I assume you're joking, but in case you're not kidding- don't do it.
1. It isn't as simple as hoping behind the wheel with your NODs on and driving. There is a good amount of instruction and training involved (scanning techniques, focus adjustment, etc...) 2. The NV drivers training we did was always on a closed road where we didn't have to worry about someone speeding around the corner with their white lights on. Also, you have to drive a lot slower, there is a lot more lane drift and all of that will make you hazard on the road to others. Our vehicles also had blackout or IR lights on them. 3. Personally, I preferred PVS-7s to monos like the 14 for NV driving. |
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I see the so I assume you're joking, but in case you're not kidding- don't do it.
1. It isn't as simple as hoping behind the wheel with your NODs on and driving. There is a good amount of instruction and training involved (scanning techniques, focus adjustment, etc...) 2. The NV drivers training we did was always on a closed road where we didn't have to worry about someone speeding around the corner with their white lights on. Also, you have to drive a lot slower, there is a lot more lane drift and all of that will make you hazard on the road to others. Our vehicles also had blackout or IR lights on them. 3. Personally, I preferred PVS-7s to monos like the 14 for NV driving. Quoted:
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Went with the Surefire M1 in a Viking Tac light mount & mounted it on the left side of the bravo bump helmet, it's angled a little "funky" but not bad, still not figured out if I like the PVS in the right eye or left, I'm right eye dominate but left eye seems to work better with the J arm and Rhino mount as far as adjusting & getting it aligned best.... I forgot how narrow your field of vision is using NV, talking a bit of getting accustomed to, going on a road trip at night, wonder how stupid of me it would be to drive with the PVS 14 I see the so I assume you're joking, but in case you're not kidding- don't do it.
1. It isn't as simple as hoping behind the wheel with your NODs on and driving. There is a good amount of instruction and training involved (scanning techniques, focus adjustment, etc...) 2. The NV drivers training we did was always on a closed road where we didn't have to worry about someone speeding around the corner with their white lights on. Also, you have to drive a lot slower, there is a lot more lane drift and all of that will make you hazard on the road to others. Our vehicles also had blackout or IR lights on them. 3. Personally, I preferred PVS-7s to monos like the 14 for NV driving. Would just like to add that if you do decide to do it anyway (because it's fun  ) do it in a parking lot you scout out during the day for small poles and those concrete things etc
I live off of over 5 miles of private road it's not nearly as hard as you'd think |
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I see the so I assume you're joking, but in case you're not kidding- don't do it.
1. It isn't as simple as hoping behind the wheel with your NODs on and driving. There is a good amount of instruction and training involved (scanning techniques, focus adjustment, etc...) 2. The NV drivers training we did was always on a closed road where we didn't have to worry about someone speeding around the corner with their white lights on. Also, you have to drive a lot slower, there is a lot more lane drift and all of that will make you hazard on the road to others. Our vehicles also had blackout or IR lights on them. 3. Personally, I preferred PVS-7s to monos like the 14 for NV driving. Quoted:
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Went with the Surefire M1 in a Viking Tac light mount & mounted it on the left side of the bravo bump helmet, it's angled a little "funky" but not bad, still not figured out if I like the PVS in the right eye or left, I'm right eye dominate but left eye seems to work better with the J arm and Rhino mount as far as adjusting & getting it aligned best.... I forgot how narrow your field of vision is using NV, talking a bit of getting accustomed to, going on a road trip at night, wonder how stupid of me it would be to drive with the PVS 14 I see the so I assume you're joking, but in case you're not kidding- don't do it.
1. It isn't as simple as hoping behind the wheel with your NODs on and driving. There is a good amount of instruction and training involved (scanning techniques, focus adjustment, etc...) 2. The NV drivers training we did was always on a closed road where we didn't have to worry about someone speeding around the corner with their white lights on. Also, you have to drive a lot slower, there is a lot more lane drift and all of that will make you hazard on the road to others. Our vehicles also had blackout or IR lights on them. 3. Personally, I preferred PVS-7s to monos like the 14 for NV driving. I've driven with the old PVS 5's and 7's, we started out on closed course and then.....well, lets just say in North Dakota and Wyoming/Neb at times you could drive for quite some time with NVG's but I've never driven with a 14 and seriously doubt I will, unless it's to screw around and then will be going remote dark areas... Will be in the S/W part of Colorado shortly.....bet I can find some dark empty roads down there..... 
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I've driven with the old PVS 5's and 7's, we started out on closed course and then.....well, lets just say in North Dakota and Wyoming/Neb at times you could drive for quite some time with NVG's but I've never driven with a 14 and seriously doubt I will, unless it's to screw around and then will be going remote dark areas... Will be in the S/W part of Colorado shortly.....bet I can find some dark empty roads down there..... Quoted:
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Went with the Surefire M1 in a Viking Tac light mount & mounted it on the left side of the bravo bump helmet, it's angled a little "funky" but not bad, still not figured out if I like the PVS in the right eye or left, I'm right eye dominate but left eye seems to work better with the J arm and Rhino mount as far as adjusting & getting it aligned best.... I forgot how narrow your field of vision is using NV, talking a bit of getting accustomed to, going on a road trip at night, wonder how stupid of me it would be to drive with the PVS 14 I see the so I assume you're joking, but in case you're not kidding- don't do it.
1. It isn't as simple as hoping behind the wheel with your NODs on and driving. There is a good amount of instruction and training involved (scanning techniques, focus adjustment, etc...) 2. The NV drivers training we did was always on a closed road where we didn't have to worry about someone speeding around the corner with their white lights on. Also, you have to drive a lot slower, there is a lot more lane drift and all of that will make you hazard on the road to others. Our vehicles also had blackout or IR lights on them. 3. Personally, I preferred PVS-7s to monos like the 14 for NV driving. I've driven with the old PVS 5's and 7's, we started out on closed course and then.....well, lets just say in North Dakota and Wyoming/Neb at times you could drive for quite some time with NVG's but I've never driven with a 14 and seriously doubt I will, unless it's to screw around and then will be going remote dark areas... Will be in the S/W part of Colorado shortly.....bet I can find some dark empty roads down there..... I never drove with the 5s. I was talking to my cousin who was in a different guard unit about NVG driving and he said they used PVS-5s. I'm sure a few hours of driving with PVS-5 really built up your neck muscles. |
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