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Posted: 12/28/2024 4:52:50 AM EDT
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Bought a maple woods runner. Assembling and sanding has been fun not to horrible if you have patience. Getting ready to disassemble and finish the wood. Watched all the tutorials. Doesn’t seem to be a tutorial for the brass and steel finishing. Is any necessary? Is there any beginner level work I could/should do? Attached File Attached File Attached File |
Shall we join the British or strive like men for the noble end for which we have done and spent so much?
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Originally Posted By MikeMilligan: I left the brass and steel in the white on my Kibler Colonial. I’ll let you know how it looks ten years from now but the plan is to manage it all towards a nice natural patina. Great. It’s awesome to know that that’s an option and I’m not fucking up by just leaving the metal alone. |
Shall we join the British or strive like men for the noble end for which we have done and spent so much?
| Yeah, spend some time on Kibler’s YouTube channel. And by some time, I mean a lot of time. He’s got several excellent videos on draw filing, brass cleanup, and wood finishing. Don’t just look at the Woodsrunner stuff - he does a lot of this on Colonial and SMR videos. |
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Originally Posted By Rocketman89408: I have built 2 WR's .45 & .54. Watch Jim's videos and you will be fine. Draw file the barrel to get machine marks out. I used Laurel Mountain Forge barrel brown on mine. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/338891/DSC02388_small-3265435.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/338891/barrel_brown1-3418937.jpg Looks awesome. Is that browning process difficult or long. Do you have a video or short tutorial. ETA: just found the instructions on the bottle. |
Shall we join the British or strive like men for the noble end for which we have done and spent so much?
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Originally Posted By Yobro512: Looks awesome. Is that browning process difficult or long. Do you have a video or short tutorial. ETA: just found the instructions on the bottle. I did both of mine in the bathroom. Ran the shower every hour for a couple minutes to keep the humidity high. 
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You can leave it bare if you wish. You can also blue it or brown it. All three were common in the time period that rifle is based on. A lot of people go for the browning since it looks more old school, and blued barrels often turn more of a brown after many decades, so to our current ideas, blued barrels on long rifles appear out of place, even though bluing was likely more common earlier, and browning was a late 1700's into the 1800's thing. I plan on bluing my long rifle when I finish it, for whatever that is worth. |
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On my Woodsrunner, I draw-filed the barrel per Jim's instructions. I finished with Brownells Oxpho Blue and rubbed back with fine Scotchbrite and oil (or WD40, can't remember). In the white is probably more historically correct. If I recall correctly, chemical/rust browning wasn't very common or may have even come later than when the original Woods Runner was made. A lot of original examples that are brown may have simply turned brown over a couple of centuries of use and handling. From https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=7409.0 "Many early longrifles were charcoal blued, while the browning of barrels appears to have come into common use during the 1790s and later." Wallace Gusler in JHAT (Journal of Historical Armsmaking Technology) Vol 2. I used the cold blue and rubbed back to somewhat resemble more of an aged in-the-white look. I'm not sure if this is what folks refer to as French Gray, but I've seen that term tossed around in my previous research on barrel finishing. My dad has a Bedford style flintlock he built from scratch back in the 70's, and he never finished the barrel. Today, it looks similar to what I've done in terms of overall color, although his looks more natural with varying specs and splotches and such since his gray was achieved legitimately over a few decades. I filed & sanded all outward-facing surfaces of the lock. Also finished with Oxpho blue and rubbed back. All brass was done with files, dunked in Jax Brown, and rubbed back. All screws were cold blued. In one of his videos, Jim discusses files, types of sandpaper, scrapers, etc. I took it to heart and picked up the Bahco files from Kibler and some sticky-back sandpaper rolls similar to what he uses from Amazon. I also picked up an assortment of sanding backers as well as some detail sanding sticks (they take narrow sanding belts in varying grits) that came in handy for a lot of nooks & crannies, particularly on the lock. Sandpaper rolls - 150/220/320: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AVC8ZI Foam sanding backers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041IPAVQ Sanding detailers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01869JXMW (Currently unavailable) Bahco files: https://kiblerslongrifles.com/collections/tools/file (I basically got one of each - they're cheap enough)     More pics HERE. I watched tons of Kibler's videos, but the ones below are probably some of the most useful.  Step 7 Colonial Kit Polishing Brass Parts  Step 8 Colonial Kit Barrel Draw Filing  Creating Patina on Rifle Parts  Stock Sand-Along with Jim Kibler. Showing proper technique on sanding a flintlock muzzleloader kit.  JAX Brown Patina Solution on Brass Machined Entry Pipe |
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Originally Posted By Dangus: On my Woodsrunner, I draw-filed the barrel per Jim's instructions. I finished with Brownells Oxpho Blue and rubbed back with fine Scotchbrite and oil (or WD40, can't remember). In the white is probably more historically correct. If I recall correctly, chemical/rust browning wasn't very common or may have even come later than when the original Woods Runner was made. A lot of original examples that are brown may have simply turned brown over a couple of centuries of use and handling. From https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=7409.0 I used the cold blue and rubbed back to somewhat resemble more of an aged in-the-white look. I'm not sure if this is what folks refer to as French Gray, but I've seen that term tossed around in my previous research on barrel finishing. My dad has a Bedford style flintlock he built from scratch back in the 70's, and he never finished the barrel. Today, it looks similar to what I've done in terms of overall color, although his looks more natural with varying specs and splotches and such since his gray was achieved legitimately over a few decades. I filed & sanded all outward-facing surfaces of the lock. Also finished with Oxpho blue and rubbed back. All brass was done with files, dunked in Jax Brown, and rubbed back. All screws were cold blued. In one of his videos, Jim discusses files, types of sandpaper, scrapers, etc. I took it to heart and picked up the Bahco files from Kibler and some sticky-back sandpaper rolls similar to what he uses from Amazon. I also picked up an assortment of sanding backers as well as some detail sanding sticks (they take narrow sanding belts in varying grits) that came in handy for a lot of nooks & crannies, particularly on the lock. Sandpaper rolls - 150/220/320: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AVC8ZI Foam sanding backers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041IPAVQ Sanding detailers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01869JXMW (Currently unavailable) Bahco files: https://kiblerslongrifles.com/collections/tools/file (I basically got one of each - they're cheap enough) https://i.imgur.com/dXzicUj.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/t88bd8a.jpg https://i.imgur.com/WYg8zze.jpg https://i.imgur.com/mP7k7G2.jpg More pics HERE. I watched tons of Kibler's videos, but the ones below are probably some of the most useful.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xg0dFBtOFQk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Wp00rrOBLI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWEMyw1_BQ0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94Lg9xJSNRE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QV5D17wuHNkWell done. Beautiful rifle. |
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Originally Posted By Dangus: On my Woodsrunner, I draw-filed the barrel per Jim's instructions. I finished with Brownells Oxpho Blue and rubbed back with fine Scotchbrite and oil (or WD40, can't remember). In the white is probably more historically correct. If I recall correctly, chemical/rust browning wasn't very common or may have even come later than when the original Woods Runner was made. A lot of original examples that are brown may have simply turned brown over a couple of centuries of use and handling. From https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=7409.0 I used the cold blue and rubbed back to somewhat resemble more of an aged in-the-white look. I'm not sure if this is what folks refer to as French Gray, but I've seen that term tossed around in my previous research on barrel finishing. My dad has a Bedford style flintlock he built from scratch back in the 70's, and he never finished the barrel. Today, it looks similar to what I've done in terms of overall color, although his looks more natural with varying specs and splotches and such since his gray was achieved legitimately over a few decades. I filed & sanded all outward-facing surfaces of the lock. Also finished with Oxpho blue and rubbed back. All brass was done with files, dunked in Jax Brown, and rubbed back. All screws were cold blued. In one of his videos, Jim discusses files, types of sandpaper, scrapers, etc. I took it to heart and picked up the Bahco files from Kibler and some sticky-back sandpaper rolls similar to what he uses from Amazon. I also picked up an assortment of sanding backers as well as some detail sanding sticks (they take narrow sanding belts in varying grits) that came in handy for a lot of nooks & crannies, particularly on the lock. Sandpaper rolls - 150/220/320: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AVC8ZI Foam sanding backers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041IPAVQ Sanding detailers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01869JXMW (Currently unavailable) Bahco files: https://kiblerslongrifles.com/collections/tools/file (I basically got one of each - they're cheap enough) https://i.imgur.com/dXzicUj.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/t88bd8a.jpg https://i.imgur.com/WYg8zze.jpg https://i.imgur.com/mP7k7G2.jpg More pics HERE. I watched tons of Kibler's videos, but the ones below are probably some of the most useful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xg0dFBtOFQk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Wp00rrOBLI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWEMyw1_BQ0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94Lg9xJSNRE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QV5D17wuHNkOriginally Posted By Dangus: On my Woodsrunner, I draw-filed the barrel per Jim's instructions. I finished with Brownells Oxpho Blue and rubbed back with fine Scotchbrite and oil (or WD40, can't remember). In the white is probably more historically correct. If I recall correctly, chemical/rust browning wasn't very common or may have even come later than when the original Woods Runner was made. A lot of original examples that are brown may have simply turned brown over a couple of centuries of use and handling. From https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=7409.0 "Many early longrifles were charcoal blued, while the browning of barrels appears to have come into common use during the 1790s and later." Wallace Gusler in JHAT (Journal of Historical Armsmaking Technology) Vol 2. I used the cold blue and rubbed back to somewhat resemble more of an aged in-the-white look. I'm not sure if this is what folks refer to as French Gray, but I've seen that term tossed around in my previous research on barrel finishing. My dad has a Bedford style flintlock he built from scratch back in the 70's, and he never finished the barrel. Today, it looks similar to what I've done in terms of overall color, although his looks more natural with varying specs and splotches and such since his gray was achieved legitimately over a few decades. I filed & sanded all outward-facing surfaces of the lock. Also finished with Oxpho blue and rubbed back. All brass was done with files, dunked in Jax Brown, and rubbed back. All screws were cold blued. In one of his videos, Jim discusses files, types of sandpaper, scrapers, etc. I took it to heart and picked up the Bahco files from Kibler and some sticky-back sandpaper rolls similar to what he uses from Amazon. I also picked up an assortment of sanding backers as well as some detail sanding sticks (they take narrow sanding belts in varying grits) that came in handy for a lot of nooks & crannies, particularly on the lock. Sandpaper rolls - 150/220/320: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AVC8ZI Foam sanding backers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041IPAVQ Sanding detailers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01869JXMW (Currently unavailable) Bahco files: https://kiblerslongrifles.com/collections/tools/file (I basically got one of each - they're cheap enough) https://i.imgur.com/dXzicUj.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/t88bd8a.jpg https://i.imgur.com/WYg8zze.jpg https://i.imgur.com/mP7k7G2.jpg More pics HERE. I watched tons of Kibler's videos, but the ones below are probably some of the most useful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xg0dFBtOFQk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Wp00rrOBLI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWEMyw1_BQ0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94Lg9xJSNRE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QV5D17wuHNkPictures finally came up. Beautiful, home mine turns out half as good |
Shall we join the British or strive like men for the noble end for which we have done and spent so much?
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Originally Posted By Dangus: On my Woodsrunner, I draw-filed the barrel per Jim's instructions. I finished with Brownells Oxpho Blue and rubbed back with fine Scotchbrite and oil (or WD40, can't remember).... I used the cold blue and rubbed back to somewhat resemble more of an aged in-the-white look. I'm not sure if this is what folks refer to as French Gray, but I've seen that term tossed around in my previous research on barrel finishing. My dad has a Bedford style flintlock he built from scratch back in the 70's, and he never finished the barrel. Today, it looks similar to what I've done in terms of overall color, although his looks more natural with varying specs and splotches and such since his gray was achieved legitimately over a few decades. I filed & sanded all outward-facing surfaces of the lock. Also finished with Oxpho blue and rubbed back. I've done the same after draw filing and 320 grit sanding/polishing - but prior to the bluing I'll spritz on a mist pf 50/50 bleach/water and allow the metal to rust 4-6 hours then clean up with 0000c steel wool. I like an aged and used finish.   
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Steve Rose
"Let your gun therefore be the constant companion of your walks"
Thomas Jefferson - 1785
"Let your gun therefore be the constant companion of your walks"
Thomas Jefferson - 1785
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Originally Posted By GunCat: I've done the same after draw filing and 320 grit sanding/polishing - but prior to the bluing I'll spritz on a mist pf 50/50 bleach/water and allow the metal to rust 4-6 hours then clean up with 0000c steel wool. I like an aged and used finish. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/31644/11FE2AB3-99A4-4FF2-9BD4-A739B473F13F-1961264.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/31644/1A533F7B-59F7-44DF-946E-7124FFA92BF9-1961260.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/31644/0B8C97A9-A6EB-46E4-9E72-898019ED8998-1348164.jpg Nice tip! I like that. |
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I decided against draw filing my Woodsrunner barrel I really didn’t see the point. Looked great to me as it was. The machining marks were nearly invisible, uniform and gave it a matte finish, which is what I wanted in a hunting rifle, anyway And the last thing I wanted to do was take a chance rounding those crisp octagonal edges I chose to use the Laurel Mtn. brown. A couple of small places didn’t quite brown all the way. And after browning, those machine marks disappeared. Overall, really happy the way it turned out Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By gODZOOKIE: I decided against draw filing my Woodsrunner barrel I really didn’t see the point. Looked great to me as it was. The machining marks were nearly invisible, uniform and gave it a matte finish, which is what I wanted in a hunting rifle, anyway And the last thing I wanted to do was take a chance rounding those crisp octagonal edges Its really amazing the quality of componets and fit/finish that these Kibler kits exhibit right out of the box. They are easier to assemble and finish than the T/C and CVA kits we started with back in the 70s and 80s, not to mention being much more historically correct. |
Steve Rose
"Let your gun therefore be the constant companion of your walks"
Thomas Jefferson - 1785
"Let your gun therefore be the constant companion of your walks"
Thomas Jefferson - 1785
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