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Posted: 7/31/2007 6:38:29 AM EDT
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just picked up my 3rd M1 Garand yesterday, and I took it down to clean the wood off and give the metal a good cleaning. Wood de-gunked nicely, and with the exception of inside the end plate, the rifle was pristine. It has a tag with what is probably Dutch inside the stock bed. I put the rifle back together, and insert the trigger group, and go to lock it down into place. It gets to a certain point, and it wont budge. I check the inside to see if its binding up, but I see no markings on the metal or wood. I separated the stock from the action, and was able to have the trigger group fit in both perfectly, without a hitch, and lock into place on the action. I put it back together, and try to lock the grouping in again, but it wont budge. I practically stood on the damn thing, its refusing to go past a certain spot... the trigger guard has to be binding by something or being obstructed, but when I look to see, there is no visual indication that is happening. What it almost SEEMS like is that the wood where the plate of the trigger grouping goes is too thick to allow the clamping action to be accomplished. But that makes no sense, as it was fine earlier in the day, and took apart without problems. Here she is, serial # 90,xxx  
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| If it fit perfectly before and the trigger guard locks up fine outside of the stock, then I'd take everything apart and wipe down the stock/upper rear handguard area to make sure that there wasn't a burr that got in there to keep the trigger guard from locking up. Does the receiver fit flush with the upper part of the stock? |
| everything fits flush, and the trigger does lock normally when its out of the rifle, or when its placed individually in the action OR the stock. fucking bizzare, I spend literally 2 hours on it yesterday, I just got the fuckin thing after I traded in my other M1 with a fucked up chamber, it was blowing out cases. This sumbitch was a beauty, and it worked fine til I took it down |
| before I left for work I was staring at it blankly, and I noticed with a little eyeball measurement, that there might be too much wood between the bottom of the receiver and the plate of the trigger assembly. Perhaps something having to do with cleaning the stock warped or expanded the wood... I doubt it, but thats all I got so far. So in the next few days I am gonna sand the edges down ever so slightly to see if I can gain more leverage that way. |
| I strongly recommend that you do NOT remove any wood from the engagement areas of the stock. I have cleaned several stocks and have never had any swelling of the wood that caused a noticeable difference in the lockup. Find a Garand 'smith in your area and have them check it out. |
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My first guess is you didn't assemble the trigger group correctly. There is a nub like the trunions, but on the inside, that cocks the hammer when you open the trigger guard. I'm guessing this is on the wrong side of the hammer. It should be forward of the hammer so that when you swing the trigger guard down it cocks the hammer. I'm guessing that nub is on the wrong side of the hammer and the nub is stopped against the backside of the hammer preventing it closing. If you did get it closed the hammer couldn't come back, the bolt couldn't come back. Just a thought as I've never made that mistake but it's got to be that. Not much else to stop a trigger guard. Really shouldn't be that much force to close the trigger guard. Good way to damage something. +1 to NOT removing any wood. That's a good way to permanently change something that worked before. Edited for head up A$$ |
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that trunnion should be forward or aft of the hammer? Because right now its aft, towards the trigger side of the hammer, but it cocks the hammer fine. I never disassembled the trigger group, merely removed it from the rifle. It cocked and fired fine before I took it apart the trunnions on the sides of the trigger guard that engage the angled slots on the inside of the receiver seems to partially engage (as when the guard is depressed as much as I can, the lockup with the receiver is tight) but it seems that for whatever reason, there isn't enough clearance for those trunnions to now slide down the angled part of the slots |
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I don't know just how familiar you are with your M1 so please don't feel insulted if I state something you consider obvious. Check lower band roll pin for flush on both sides. Check pin that holds bullet guide is installed properly (head on right and flush or below). Check hammer pin is flush or below. Check trigger pin is flush. Check camming pins on trigger guard for deformation/burs, these need to be greased. I also grease the sides of the trigger housing where the trigger guard might rub. Now with the unloaded rifle fully seated in the stock, rifle upside down in your lap. Drop in the trigger assemble, rotate the trigger guard forward and back as your doing it. Once its seated well attempt to rotate the trigger guard to the locked position. Chances are the nose of the trigger guard will hit the metal of the trigger housing and this may be what is keeping you from full lock up.. With one hand hold rear of receiver firmly on the stock and place the thumb of the other hand on the curve of the trigger guard just above the safety, push down and back to get the nose into its slot. That's all I got. Please let us know how it goes. |
Ok, I'm a retard and should have looked at one before I posted. The nub that cocks the hammer upon opening is indeed aft of the hammer. It's below the hammer pin so it cocks the hammer by pushing on the lower portion of the hammer contrary to the F'd up picture I had in my head. Ignore all advice from me because I'm stupid.  |
.| thank you again, I am looking forward to taking this beautiful girl down to the range, I cannot wait. I like the serial number, the gun was clean but the finish is fairly worn. The barrel looks not bad at all, I was going to send it to DGR to get made over, but I am not too sure I want to alter this one. The wood is more than likely Dutch, but in good condition. I may just try to find a barreled action or plain old receiver in good shape to send to Dean and have him basically give me a new barrel and such on new wood, and have a brand new rifle. 3 months though... I know it worth it, I just don't want to be without a M1 for that long. |
You could send it to him for a winter overhaul. You're less apt to go shooting when it's -5 deg F out.  then again 2 is better than 1!
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