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Posted: 9/28/2004 1:18:23 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 3:16:38 PM EDT
Is there a reasonable parts source for these?

It sounds more like a shooter than a collectible.

Dennis Jenkins

Originally Posted By C4iGrant:
I have the chance to get one of these complete with folding stock, rail mount and a Trijicon Reflex II for $800. I know that there has been less than 200 hundred rounds put through it. Does it sound like a good deal???


Link Posted: 9/28/2004 3:21:22 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 3:27:46 PM EDT
Kiss off getting parts...They ain't around so plan on buying 2.
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 3:29:16 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 3:31:33 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 3:33:48 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 6:38:31 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 6:43:14 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 7:51:13 PM EDT

I've got one that I've had for several years and I've really liked it. I don't shoot it as much as I used to since I got into ARs, but it was always reliable, accurate and fun to shoot.

Link Posted: 9/28/2004 8:20:57 PM EDT
I got one and I really like it.

Link Posted: 9/28/2004 9:17:52 PM EDT
I have one and I really like it too.

I put an Ace fixed skeleton stock on it, which looks great but is somewhat uncomfortable to use since your cheek has to be pushed against it pretty hard to align the sights.

Keep in mind that, as far as I know, all the DR200s had a 1/12 barrel twist. That's good for me because I only shoot M193 type ammo, but might not be as good for you depending on what you shoot.

Did I mention that I really like the rifle?

Link Posted: 9/28/2004 9:49:59 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 10:16:35 PM EDT

I love my K2 too.

I also like my DR200.


Link Posted: 9/29/2004 3:44:22 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 4:59:02 AM EDT
I've owned a K2 since before the import ban. I've owned a DR-200 for about a year now.

The K2 is the standard rifle of the ROK Army. It's a rifle with an AK gas system, and AR accuracy and weight. The DR-200 is the post-ban version of the K2.

It's true that parts are hard to get, but you can find them if you look hard enough. Some AR parts interchange as well.

I think the overall design is superior to the AR/M16. The same factory that built the ROK's M16s under license from Colt, built the K2/DR-200. They are as well made as any AR out there, and better than most.

The K2 had a 1 in 7 twist. The DR-200 has a 1 in 12.

With the correct number of USA parts, you can legally have the ACE stock on a DR-200. AR fire control group (hammer, trigger, disco) fit in the lower, and using an ACE pistol grip and stock, and US mags, you're legal for any evil feature you want now that the ban is dead. The current ACE fixed can be made a folder by placing a hinge between the receiver block and the stock. The previous ACE fixed stock was actually a poor folder design that they permanently pinned open to meet the ban laws. ACE still has the latch mechanism for the older style, so you can make it a folder. I've done mine, but it's not the greatest. Not the worst I've seen (better than the original AR-180 stock), but the current folder is better. So you can have a folder on there regardless of which ACE stock you have.

$600-650 is about average for the T-hole standard rifle. Add the ACE and the opitcs and mount and $800 is a good price. I wouldn't pay a whole lot more. I wouldn't expect to pay much less.

They are great guns, very accurate, and fun to shoot.

Link Posted: 9/29/2004 5:03:18 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 6:07:04 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 7:00:57 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 7:05:18 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 7:16:55 AM EDT
Ace also sells the parts so that you can attach a collapsible AR stock to the DR200 if you want. You can also put their hinge plate on it so you could have a CAR stock that is adjutable and can be folded to the side to make it more compact.
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 2:37:21 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 3:59:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/29/2004 4:00:21 PM EDT by Ross]
As for the threads, the muzzle is threaded under the device, and the muzzle threads are AR compatible, just a bit more of the barrel is threaded. Easy enough to work around, you just need use a couple of washers or a spacer. The AR FS bottoms out before you run out of threads.

How the muzzle device is attatched to the DR-200 seems to vary from importer to importer. Some early ones are soldered on with low-temp solder and you can get them off with a propane torch. Some are high-temp soldered on, and you need to get the barrel cherry red. Some are welded on.

As a side note, the DR-200's muzzle device is actually the same diameter as an AR device. Don't know how it got in during the ban, as it will accept a rifle grenade (tried it), and is definately 22mm. Basically it's the same unit as the pre-ban FS, only without the slots. Mine's on with high-temp solder, so I'm just going to slot the thing on the top and not bother taking it off.

The K2's FS has slots postioned across 180 deg like the A2. The slots though are oriented towards two o'clock (i.e. upper right shoulder of shooter) to help counter recoil and muzzle climb in full-auto. I think I'm just going to drill holes in the top of mine, since I'm cheap and lazy, and I have a K2, so I'm not really needing any pre-ban features (other than a folder, PG, and greande launcher).

Link Posted: 9/29/2004 4:08:16 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/30/2004 2:58:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/30/2004 3:05:59 AM EDT by Ross]
Here's some pics.

You'll notice the ACE stock is a tad longer than the OEM stock. The OEM stock is about A1 length. The "cutout" on the barrel just behind the gas block is for the M16A1 clothespin bipod. The K2 takes the M16 bayo.

Here they are folded. The OEM stock is a much stronger and better design, and feels as solid as a fixed stock when extended. The ACE is the older model that is normally a fixed stock. After the AWB sunset, I drove out the pin and installed the original latch parts. The new ACE stock is modular and has a much better hinge and latch design. You can also see that I replaced the A1 style windage drum with a Rapidex unit on the K2.

Left side of the DR-200 receiver. Notice the reinforced area of the bolt catch, and the shape of the lower where the T-hole used to be.

Left side of K2. Same as the DR, except the contour of the lower. You'll also notice the range markings on the K2 go all the way up to 600 Meters. The DR-200 is only marked to 400M. They are the same sight assembly though. Just the markings are missing on the DR-200 for 500 and 600. It will still adjust out to 600M.

I've seen people slightly modify FAL and HK91 handguards to work.

One goofy thing is the selector. On the K2 it rotates all the way around, as the orignal military rifle has a 4 position selector. You just have to go 180 deg to get to fire though on the civie K2. On the DR-200, because the T-hole was in the way, the switch only rotates backwards of the AR (i.e. counter-clockwise 180 degs from safe to semi) which is ass-backwards from anything. You can mod the selector switch to get it to go the right way. While AR trig, ham, disco will fit (and how you get USA parts count to use the ACE), the selector is too short. The Daewoo receiver walls are thicker than the M16's for strength, so the AR switch ends up too short.

Link Posted: 9/30/2004 4:20:40 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/30/2004 5:53:45 AM EDT
Link Posted: 10/1/2004 4:29:55 AM EDT
It seems the welded ones are obvious. They apparently welded the circumfrence of the base of the device to the barrel, so that one's pretty easy to tell.

On the soldered ones, some folks say they got there's hot with a propane torch and cranked it off, keeping the flame on the device, and it was pretty stiff until it started turning.

On mine, I tried with a propane torch (hoping it would be easy) and it wouldn't budge. I heated that thing forever and used alot of force, and it didn't move at all. It's pretty obvious I needed more heat on mine, which results in the theory that it's high-temp solder as required by law. That's just a guess, as I didn't try to get it red hot, that's just too much work for me.

My theory goes that the early ones had low-tem solder, since the ATF didn't come out with what an approved way of attaching was until later. When they found that out the importer switched to high-temp solder. Later a switch was made to welding, either for cost, or just because of a different importer. It's just a theory, but it fits the examples.

Trial and error would be the only way I know of to be certain. Nobody's figured out if there's a pattern by importers, or serial numbers, etc. Mine is a B-west import with a 4317xx s/n if that helps any.

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