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8/15/2026 1:08:44 PM EDT
Someone told me the other day that Garand bolts are fitted to the rifle and they should not be swapped.

My understanding is that you only need to strip the bolt and use GO and NO GO gauges, with gentle finger pressure.

I find it really hard to believe that each Garand bolt was fitted to each rifle.   It's a supremely practical rifle and hand-fitted bolts are not practical for a military rifle.

Thanks
8/15/2026 1:11:11 PM EDT
[#1]
interested in the response, I always understood verifying headspace like normal is all you needed
No one could take His life, He laid it down for me,
That twisted wreath of thorns, yea He took that crown for me,
But after three days, out of the ground for me,
He overcame it all, now I live to serve Him
8/15/2026 6:33:04 PM EDT
[#2]
Yes, you can use a go/no go to check after swapping bolts. Some will say if it does not pass a no-go you can go as far as a field gauge.

The intention was parts were interchangeable with M1’s. Most of the time you can with no issue. The military would test new rifles for parts interchangeability before acceptance at the factory. They did not check between manufactures or wwii vs postwar. However, later rebuilds, tolerance stacking and who knows what someone did to the rifle is why you should check headspace after swapping bolts.
8/15/2026 6:43:47 PM EDT
[#3]
Yes, are you planning to strip the bolt/s first?
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.

I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
8/15/2026 10:29:16 PM EDT
[#4]
You only need a go gage. Remove the ejector and see if it chambers. If that fits add a layer of scotch tape to the gage's head, it's approximately .002" thick. Continue this process until the bolt won't close. You will quickly discover your chamber's headspace with a little scotch tape.

Anything between .000" and .004" is considered acceptable on a new rifle.

Anything between .000" and .009" is considered acceptable on a used rifle. That would be five layers of scotch tape +/-.

IMO, all semi-auto rifles should be .002" clearance over SAAMI minimum headspace for reliability.

8/16/2026 1:10:07 AM EDT
[#5]
You should use a Go and a Field gauge.

Or just the Field gauge.
(If it won’t accept a Go gauge then live ammo won’t fit either.)
8/16/2026 11:15:23 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Originally Posted By KitBuilder:
You should use a Go and a Field gauge.

Or just the Field gauge.
(If it won’t accept a Go gauge then live ammo won’t fit either.)
View Quote


I use the field guage.
8/16/2026 11:44:25 AM EDT
[#7]
I have a GO and a NO GO gauge.

I have two rifles.  They both close nicely on a GO gauge and won't close on a NO GO, no matter which bolt is in which gun.

You have to strip the bolt to get an accurate reading from the gauges.

So it looks like I'm good to go.

The reason that I asked is someone said to me that Garand bolts were individually fitted to each gun, which sounds like horsepucky to me, but I figured that I would check just to be sure.
8/16/2026 12:42:55 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote History
Originally Posted By sleestakwhisperer:
The reason that I asked is someone said to me that Garand bolts were individually fitted to each gun, which sounds like horsepucky to me, but I figured that I would check just to be sure.
View Quote
The "fitting" is the headspacing. That's it.
8/17/2026 8:50:09 AM EDT
[#9]
I've swapped bolts on Garands before, just checked headspace afterwards.  I've not had any issues, and the couple times I did it headspace was good.
8/17/2026 12:43:27 PM EDT
[#10]
If checking headspace on a rifle that already been finish reamed ,all you need is a Field gauge. Strip bolt, make sure shamber is cleaned and bolt face. Insert Field Gauge in chamber, push bolt forward and with LIGHT finger pressure only push lug down in closed position. You are basically letting the lug fall on its own. DO NOT PUSH HARD ON LUG. If there is any space between the lug and receiver you are fine.
8/20/2026 6:09:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Sailormilan2][Edited] [#11]
Well, you can…………you can’t. If you stay within the same manufacturer, and the same series you have a better chance of a bolt manufactured within the specs for that series properly fitting in a receiver made in that time period.
For example, some series of bolts are made to slightly different specifications. IIRC, and it’s been a while, the -2, -18,-19, and series “65” bolts are made somewhat longer. So, in a mid war Garand they may shorten headspace enough to cause problems.
I’ve actually got a Navy Garand, chambered in 7.62NATO specs, shortened to SAAMI specs by using a new Series “65”.
8/28/2026 11:01:55 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Originally Posted By borderpatrol:
You only need a go gage. Remove the ejector and see if it chambers. If that fits add a layer of scotch tape to the gage's head, it's approximately .002" thick. Continue this process until the bolt won't close. You will quickly discover your chamber's headspace with a little scotch tape.

Anything between .000" and .004" is considered acceptable on a new rifle.

Anything between .000" and .009" is considered acceptable on a used rifle. That would be five layers of scotch tape +/-.

IMO, all semi-auto rifles should be .002" clearance over SAAMI minimum headspace for reliability.

View Quote
Go Gage and Field Gage, just to be sure.  I have swapped bolts on several of my own rifles, and in the field, they were swapped regularly by the armorers.  Designed specifically to be able to really swap any parts.  The bolts that came on the CMP refiles for years never matched.
A people that values its privileges above its principles soon loses both. - Dwight D. Eisenhower

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