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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Another which Dillon thread (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 1/2/2017 9:30:49 PM EDT
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I have seen a few which Dillon press to get posts on this forum, but did not want to hijack someones post, so I thought I'd start a new one. First, I am not new to reloading. I have been doing it for 10 or so years and have loaded a variety of calibers, more rifle than pistol, including wildcats. I have all the necessary ancillary equipment and can buy whatever I want or need. I currently have 3 single stage press. I have owned turrets (Redding T7) and a Hornady LNL AP with casefeeder. I know how to operate the LNL quite well.
A friend wanted my LNL, so I sold it to him, and am thinking about its replacement, and of course the Dillon brand has come up. I shoot .380, 9mm, and .45 pistol, and a number of .22 Hornet and .223 variants. I would like to be able to load for the pistol rounds above, and be able to load a good # for rifle to go PD hunting. At first, I thought I would get a SDB or 3 for the pistol, but the tight toolhead, and proprietary dies made me give pause. Another thing is I've heard the small throw, requires a good bit of effort to operate. I am old and weak and tire easily. Then, I thought about the 550B. Honestly, after owning the Hornady LNL with casefeeder, I don't think I could get used to the manual indexing or the ergonomics of taking the right hand off the handle. I realize that technically it is a progressive because it produces a round with every pull of the handle, but once you see the city, it's hard to go back to the farm. I do not know if the 550B requires the same effort as the SDB or not. I'm sure I could operate the XL 650, and I know it is similar to the Hornady I had. I do not know how much effort is involved in operating it. I believe caliber changes would be almost as easy as the LNL, especially if one invests in a few quick conversion kits with powder measures. The casefeeder is supposed to work well, and a bullet feeder could be an option down the road. While I can afford an S1050 with every option available including autodrive, I know I don't have the volume of any ONE caliber to require it. For example, in the .223 variants, I load for the standard .223, but I also load for the .17/.223 and 6 x 45. You get the idea. I know a 550B would be enough based on volume but not sure about the manual indexing. I guess I could try it and add a 650 with casefeeder, and add a bulletfeeder later. I don't mind pulling the handle, but I don't plan on becoming an Olympic weight lifter to be able to use it to produce 1K rounds at a time. Your thoughts? |
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After 10 years of a single stage Rock Chucker I bought an XL650. No regrets. So far I have only loaded 2 calibers of pistol rounds and plan to add one more and possibly 2 rifle calibers. With the quick change kits I can change calibers in about 10 minutes, 9mm-10mm. With 600 primers loaded in tubes I can load about 800rds an hour when running good and not pushing it.
Since I don't have a bullet feeder I would expect my speeds are similar to a 550 with case feeder but the extra station is nice for powder checker or whatever. |
| I've used a 550B for a lot of years and am happy with it. Never used a 650 (who knows, maybe that's good for the bank balance). Within the parameters of my time to shoot and time to load the 550 does fine. A few hours now and then and I have plenty of ammo. I'll admit all my loading has been handgun and perhaps I'd see the world differently if i was loading quantities of .223. Kind of doubt it. I guess I just don't live in a world where a couple hours a year is a big difference to me. |
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Started with a LNL and by the time I got down mod'g it to run correctly, was time to sell it off. Truth is, for all the time I used it for reloading, would dare to say that I have about the same amount of time tweaking/machining items to add on to it to get it to run trouble free instead.
The 550 is not bad, but if you are accustom to auto indexing and case feeder, then the 650 is the way to go. There are a few tweaks that you will do the 650 along the way, but if you every go to sell it down the line, your going to get out of it pretty much what you put into it. But far warning, at some point the extra funds are going to be come available, , and this is where the 1050 will be screaming to be bolted to the bench instead (read added stations, and a build in swage tool). It will start with a few tweaks on the machine since you will need to first get all the conversion kits you need, the auto drive will start look appealing, and then your deep down the rabbit hole on a fully automatic machine isntead. So yes, the 1050 is the better machine over the 650, but it's a lot more money to do caliber conversion on isntead. Is it work it to pick up now, just depends on the amount of extra Toy fund money you have laying around and not going to a better instead. |
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550 for multiple calibers and ease of caliber changes. 1050 for mass production in any one single caliber. 650 is one foot on the dock and one in the canoe. You will wish you went one way or the other. I like this analogy. OP, It seems like the 650 is the most popular machine, and sales may support that, but when you start looking at a lot of calibers, the 550 really shines. Â Manual indexing is not a concern, after a few 100 rounds you won't even think about it. Â If need to go so fast or load so many that manual indexing is a concern, it's time to look at the 1050 imo. If you have to have a casefeeder (or, a powder check/cop), like most I will say go ahead and move to the 650 or 1050. Â The 550 casefeeder was an afterthought by Dillon, but everyone wanted it so they did it. Â It works, but is kludgy, requires a bit of tinkering constantly, and I never really enjoyed running it. Â I wound up taking it off and selling it. Â If a powder check is a must you will need the extra hole(s). I load my "popular" calibers (45, 223, 9, and maybe soon 10mm too :) on a 1050 with a Mr. Bullet Feeder. Â Man is it a dream to run - but I don't even take the cover off unless I'm going to run at least 1k rounds. Â BUT, very expensive for caliber changes, so I run less used calibers on the 550. Â I load match/precision rifle ammo for 223 and 308 on a Forster. Â 1050 runs the range blaster 223. Â |
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I had my XL650 all decked out, a tool head and stand for every caliber I load, an extra tool head for just de-capping. Case feeder, roller handle, spent primer tube, live primer catcher just about everything could possibly do to that machine. And I absolutely loved it.
Load development on a single stage, and then just move to the XL 650 start cranking it out. It was awesome, except I couldn't swage brass. And I hated my Dillon super swage. So I stepped up to a S1050, mostly for the on board swage feature, as I do a lot of military brass. Then they came out with the swage it, a viable option for swaging on a Dillon XL 650. Yes it voids the warranty of the XL 650, but I'm the type of person I would've never sent the machine back in for something I broke using the swage it for warranty work. And from what I've heard, at the most you might break the shell plate, a fairly inexpensive item. The problem is that once you run a Super 1050, there ain't no going back. 
In my opinion, the 650 is the best all-around machine. I wish I didn't have to sell my 650 to step up to the 1050, and in hindsight I really didn't. If had a S1050 and a XL 650, I'd be in heaven. Now in my defense, I will say that a case feeder and a bulletfeeder are a must for me, and the on board swaging as well. I have a physical condition that affects my fingers, and need to automate as much of the reloading process as possible. Saving the fine finger manipulations for load development. I hope this helps. |
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I like this analogy. OP, It seems like the 650 is the most popular machine, and sales may support that, but when you start looking at a lot of calibers, the 550 really shines. Â Manual indexing is not a concern, after a few 100 rounds you won't even think about it. Â If need to go so fast or load so many that manual indexing is a concern, it's time to look at the 1050 imo. If you have to have a casefeeder (or, a powder check/cop), like most I will say go ahead and move to the 650 or 1050. Â The 550 casefeeder was an afterthought by Dillon, but everyone wanted it so they did it. Â It works, but is kludgy, requires a bit of tinkering constantly, and I never really enjoyed running it. Â I wound up taking it off and selling it. Â If a powder check is a must you will need the extra hole(s). I load my "popular" calibers (45, 223, 9, and maybe soon 10mm too :) on a 1050 with a Mr. Bullet Feeder. Â Man is it a dream to run - but I don't even take the cover off unless I'm going to run at least 1k rounds. Â BUT, very expensive for caliber changes, so I run less used calibers on the 550. Â I load match/precision rifle ammo for 223 and 308 on a Forster. Â 1050 runs the range blaster 223. Â Pretty sure the 550 is significantly more popular than the 650. I own and use a 550, but with what you've stated, you may prefer the 650 due to the auto index and other features. The 1050 for all the calibers you listed I'd think would be cumbersome. They're all good choices with trade-offs. |
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I just ordered a 650 after going back and forth between it and the LnL for months. I went with the 650 because the warranty, ability to refurbish when/if needed and because most people say that after its set there is really no tinkering to keep it running smooth. Like others have said, I wished it had the ability to swage like the 1050. I just couldn't justify the extra costs for changeovers to gain that One of the biggest drawbacks for me was not being able to go to Cabelas or other sporting goods stores nearby to buy dies, replacement parts, add ons, etc. Sometimes it's nice to actually look at something before buying it.
I have searched and read this forum and others as well as working on my degree from YouTube University. I think it was the right choice as of now. Will find out for sure soon. |
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I just ordered a 650 after going back and forth between it and the LnL for months. I went with the 650 because the warranty, ability to refurbish when/if needed and because most people say that after its set there is really no tinkering to keep it running smooth. Like others have said, I wished it had the ability to swage like the 1050. I just couldn't justify the extra costs for changeovers to gain that One of the biggest drawbacks for me was not being able to go to Cabelas or other sporting goods stores nearby to buy dies, replacement parts, add ons, etc. Sometimes it's nice to actually look at something before buying it. I have searched and read this forum and others as well as working on my degree from YouTube University. I think it was the right choice as of now. Will find out for sure soon. You will be very happy with it, and you can swage on it. |
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I just ordered a 650 after going back and forth between it and the LnL for months. I went with the 650 because the warranty, ability to refurbish when/if needed and because most people say that after its set there is really no tinkering to keep it running smooth. Like others have said, I wished it had the ability to swage like the 1050. I just couldn't justify the extra costs for changeovers to gain that One of the biggest drawbacks for me was not being able to go to Cabelas or other sporting goods stores nearby to buy dies, replacement parts, add ons, etc. Sometimes it's nice to actually look at something before buying it. I have searched and read this forum and others as well as working on my degree from YouTube University. I think it was the right choice as of now. Will find out for sure soon. 
Start a thread and post your results when you are up and running, it should help others who are making the which press decision. |
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OP,
I started loading on a 550. It works great, and as you know case prep is the hardest part of reloading. Recently I bought a 650 with the extra tool heads and gear to be able to load 9mm, 45, and 40. Many reloaders I know have 650's and love them, and one of the big draws for pistol is the ability to add the powder checker in the 5th hole. Based on the amount of pistol calibers you want to load, and your familiarity with auto-indexing, I would recommend the 650. Get the powder checker, extra tool heads, caliber conversion kits, and case feeders. In the long run it will be cheaper than the 1050 for all that gear and you will be very happy with your purchase. |
| I have well over 40,000 rds through my 650XL. Â I love it. Â The majority of that has been 40S&W, 45 ACP and 38 Short Colt for USPSA but I have dies setup to load 9mm, 38 Super, 38 S&W, 38-200, 38 Short Colt, 38 Special, 357 Mag, 40S&W, 10mm Auto, 45 ACP. Â Presently I have only one powder dispenser so caliber conversion take about 30-45 minutes depending on if I am changing primer size. Â But that is working slow and methodical. |
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I have seen a few which Dillon press to get posts on this forum, but did not want to hijack someones post, so I thought I'd start a new one. First, I am not new to reloading. I have been doing it for 10 or so years and have loaded a variety of calibers, more rifle than pistol, including wildcats. I have all the necessary ancillary equipment and can buy whatever I want or need. I currently have 3 single stage press. I have owned turrets (Redding T7) and a Hornady LNL AP with casefeeder. I know how to operate the LNL quite well. A friend wanted my LNL, so I sold it to him, and am thinking about its replacement, and of course the Dillon brand has come up. I shoot .380, 9mm, and .45 pistol, and a number of .22 Hornet and .223 variants. I would like to be able to load for the pistol rounds above, and be able to load a good # for rifle to go PD hunting. At first, I thought I would get a SDB or 3 for the pistol, but the tight toolhead, and proprietary dies made me give pause. Another thing is I've heard the small throw, requires a good bit of effort to operate. I am old and weak and tire easily. Then, I thought about the 550B. Honestly, after owning the Hornady LNL with casefeeder, I don't think I could get used to the manual indexing or the ergonomics of taking the right hand off the handle. I realize that technically it is a progressive because it produces a round with every pull of the handle, but once you see the city, it's hard to go back to the farm. I do not know if the 550B requires the same effort as the SDB or not. I'm sure I could operate the XL 650, and I know it is similar to the Hornady I had. I do not know how much effort is involved in operating it. I believe caliber changes would be almost as easy as the LNL, especially if one invests in a few quick conversion kits with powder measures. The casefeeder is supposed to work well, and a bullet feeder could be an option down the road. While I can afford an S1050 with every option available including autodrive, I know I don't have the volume of any ONE caliber to require it. For example, in the .223 variants, I load for the standard .223, but I also load for the .17/.223 and 6 x 45. You get the idea. I know a 550B would be enough based on volume but not sure about the manual indexing. I guess I could try it and add a 650 with casefeeder, and add a bulletfeeder later. I don't mind pulling the handle, but I don't plan on becoming an Olympic weight lifter to be able to use it to produce 1K rounds at a time. Your thoughts? This is just my opinion. I have never cranked out 1,000 rounds in any one setting. At most I crank out 100 rounds each "spell". Although I do have extra primer tubes, I have never filled them up. The press will run dry or empty of primers after 100 rounds. So I make it a point to stop, take the loaded round bin off my 650 and plunk my butt on the sofa. Then I will case gauge some of the rounds if pistol and all of the rounds if for rifle. Then I box them bullets down in those little plastic flip lid boxes. I will run my finger across the primers. If everything checks okay, tgen I will use a red or green sharpie to draw a line across the headstamps. My whole modus operandi does two things: 1. QC's or QA's just 100 hundred rounds at a time. I would hate to pull bullets on 290, 300, or 1000 rounds. 2. Reduces fatigue. Gives me a chance to stretch my neck and shoulder muscles. It also refreshes my brain/mind so that when I return to the press I am not just mind numbingly cranking the handle on my 650 without really paying attention. Mistakes happen when you're tired. You don't want a KABOOM! to happen just a few inches from your face and eyes, and you don't want to ruin a multi-thousand dollar rifle/scope "rig". And I don't need to be an Olympic power lifter. |
| Way back when I started out with a RCBS Rock Chucker, than wanted to speed things up, added a RCBS 4X4, than a Green Machine, finally a RCBS Ammo Master. Than decide to go the Blue KoolAid route. Bought a 650 with all of the bells and whistles, Loved it so much bought a 550. Added another 550 so I could have one set up for small primer and one for large primer. Sold all of the RCBS stuff except for the single stage. Very happy with my Dillon's, use the 550s almost daily and the 650 for larger runs. |
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This is just my opinion. I have never cranked out 1,000 rounds in any one setting. At most I crank out 100 rounds each "spell". Although I do have extra primer tubes, I have never filled them up. The press will run dry or empty of primers after 100 rounds. So I make it a point to stop, take the loaded round bin off my 650 and plunk my butt on the sofa. Then I will case gauge some of the rounds if pistol and all of the rounds if for rifle. Then I box them bullets down in those little plastic flip lid boxes. I will run my finger across the primers. If everything checks okay, tgen I will use a red or green sharpie to draw a line across the headstamps. My whole modus operandi does two things: 1. QC's or QA's just 100 hundred rounds at a time. I would hate to pull bullets on 290, 300, or 1000 rounds. 2. Reduces fatigue. Gives me a chance to stretch my neck and shoulder muscles. It also refreshes my brain/mind so that when I return to the press I am not just mind numbingly cranking the handle on my 650 without really paying attention. Mistakes happen when you're tired. You don't want a KABOOM! to happen just a few inches from your face and eyes, and you don't want to ruin a multi-thousand dollar rifle/scope "rig". And I don't need to be an Olympic power lifter. It's really starting to sound like a couple 550b's, one for large and one for small primers and a 650 with casefeeder for larger runs of 9mm and .223 would be a good route. For around $2500-$3000 I could be really set up. One thing I thought could be a problem with the 550B I have discounted, that it is a four station tool head. I like to seat and crimp pistol rounds in separate stations and thought I wanted a powder check die. After trying one (powder check die) they are a PIA. Powder sticks to the tip of the indicator rod, and a little falls onto the shellplate here and there. After a while, it's a mess. A related question-when you take breaks in between primer tubes (I have to as well, I have numerous physical issues) is it all in one day? In other words have you ever left primers and powder in the press for a day or two? |
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I have always left powder in the Dillon's powder measure. But then again, I have dedicated toolheads for 9, .40, .45ACP, and .223 with their own powder measures
Primers....I always have run it dry... to empty. If I get interrupted during a run (phone rings or a bathroom break), I'll place a bullet upside down on the case with powder. I don't run a powder cop, but I do run a mechanic's inspection mirror and a flashlight zip tied to the powder measure: 
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It's really starting to sound like a couple 550b's, one for large and one for small primers and a 650 with casefeeder for larger runs of 9mm and .223 would be a good route. For around $2500-$3000 I could be really set up. One thing I thought could be a problem with the 550B I have discounted, that it is a four station tool head. I like to seat and crimp pistol rounds in separate stations and thought I wanted a powder check die. After trying one (powder check die) they are a PIA. Powder sticks to the tip of the indicator rod, and a little falls onto the shellplate here and there. After a while, it's a mess. A related question-when you take breaks in between primer tubes (I have to as well, I have numerous physical issues) is it all in one day? In other words have you ever left primers and powder in the press for a day or two? |
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Dillon XL650 is what you want. with the casefeeder and powder check system  Do you have a powder check system on each 650 toolhead? Or do you have just one and move it from toolhead to toolhead? They are about $70 on Dillon's website, so for me, I couldn't really see outfitting each of my toolheads with a powder cop die/system. That's money that is better spent on reloading components, IMO. |
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Do you have a powder check system on each 650 toolhead? Or do you have just one and move it from toolhead to toolhead? They are about $70 on Dillon's website, so for me, I couldn't really see outfitting each of my toolheads with a powder cop die/system. That's money that is better spent on reloading components, IMO. I have a 3 of them, but they use the same die as the Dillon powder measure, so they are quick and easy to reinstall on every toolhead as you use them. also, . . . I have money for powder check systems, and more components 
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....One thing I thought could be a problem with the 550B I have discounted, that it is a four station tool head.... On the 550, since it is manually indexing, and you have to look at the freshly charged with powder case anyway to set the bullet, and flip the star wheel with your left thumb to advance the shell plate, with most semi-auto cases being short enough, you can visually see that it has powder. So no need for a powder cop die. Just a bullet seating die in station #3 and something like a Lee Factory Crimp Die in the last station, #4. |
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I have a 3 of them, but they use the same die as the Dillon powder measure, so they are quick and easy to reinstall on every toolhead as you use them.Â
also, . . . I have money for powder check systems, and more components Yeah, I know....I have one sitting a drawer I will never use. Just thinking out loud here....I have at least 5 other dedicated Dillon powder measures. If I had gone the cheap route, I could have just gone with two Dillon powder measures. Make one for rifle and make the other for pistol. Just move them from toolhead to toolhead as needed. I'll probably be buying a 1050 later this year. |
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I have well over 40,000 rds through my 650XL. Â I love it. Â The majority of that has been 40S&W, 45 ACP and 38 Short Colt for USPSA but I have dies setup to load 9mm, 38 Super, 38 S&W, 38-200, 38 Short Colt, 38 Special, 357 Mag, 40S&W, 10mm Auto, 45 ACP. Â Presently I have only one powder dispenser so caliber conversion take about 30-45 minutes depending on if I am changing primer size. Â But that is working slow and methodical. Little trick if you have not figure this out yet, is pick up an extra powder dispenser bottom die and powder check bottom die for each of your extra tool heads. You can buy extra rods/check rod sleeves if you want to, but since they are so easy to make, just make the needed ones your self. Hence once you have the tool head set up, pulling the top portions of the powder check and powder dispenser to drop on the next tool head becomes a snap. It's really the dispenser die that has to be adjusted to the powder through funnel in play (which stays with the tool head anyways), and when you have extra through rods with top section with the tool head, all your left to do with you swap the powder dispenser, is just adjust it for the new powder drop instead. Note, when you are setting up the powder check dies, make sure to set it up so it up so the push rod works for all the head at the lenght you have it set. This will save you from having to readjust the push rod bottom nut on head swaps. The extra powder dispenser bottom dies is # 20064, and the extra powder check bottom die is #13990. They are $12 each, and the $24 per tool head is a cost savings over lost time swapping heads and ending up having readjust the dies being re-installed on the other heads isntead. Hence it's nice to have powder dispensers on all the tool heads, but it can get spendy real quick instead. By just having the extra dies in the tools heads preset instead, all you end up is just having to reset the powder dispenser for gr drops as you move it to the tool head in play. https://www.dillonprecision.com/docs/650_Pg_56.pdf https://www.dillonprecision.com/docs/Auto_Powder_System.pdf] |
| I really don't understand why people are hung up on keeping the 1050 to a single caliber. If you don't have to switch over the priming system, it doesn't take very long to do a caliber change. I don't even have a spare tool head. I just use the hornady lock rings. I can swap between calibers in about 10 minutes. I've done 9mm, 38, 300bo, 223. Soon to do some 308 and 30-06. And yes, once you use one, you will never want to use anything else. One of these days I may buy another 550 for other odd caliber/small batch work, mainly because the caliber conversions are so much cheaper. |
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I really don't understand why people are hung up on keeping the 1050 to a single caliber. If you don't have to switch over the priming system, it doesn't take very long to do a caliber change. I don't even have a spare tool head. I just use the hornady lock rings. I can swap between calibers in about 10 minutes. I've done 9mm, 38, 300bo, 223. Soon to do some 308 and 30-06. And yes, once you use one, you will never want to use anything else. One of these days I may buy another 550 for other odd caliber/small batch work, mainly because the caliber conversions are so much cheaper. Two things slow me down when swapping calibers... I like to clean the press well and relube. Primer depth setting adjustment and also swaging adjustment (if necessary) Other than that, the 1050 is easy like you said. However, I am getting tired of using one toolhead so I got a bunch recently to celebrate the new year. OP, RE: Powder sticking to check die.. maybe try dipping rod in graphite powder between calibers. I run 550 (low volume rifle) and 1050 (high volume)... and SL900 for shot. I run PC7 for odd stuff (black powder) and mid volume stuff. You can never have too many presses. I would not use a 650 due to primer system nor use 550 for pistol due to no auto index. That's just my opinion. Plenty of people don't agree and I don't care. They can do what they want. I know what I need and I have it. Hardest part of the decision in buying a press is trying to understand what you need without really understanding functionality. Took me years to figure out what works for me. Sounds like you have the money.. Buy a 550... if its not what you want, sell on EE. Wont lose all that much but you will gain a huge amount of knowledge. |
| I have a 650 that is optioned out. I bought it before I was married and had kids. I like it fine but every time I use it wish that I'd have gotten a 1050 instead. Mainly for ease of mil brass processing. I currently deprive, size, trim, and primer pocket swage on the 650 but swaging on 650 is cludgy and it's easy to not fully stroke swager and have tight primer pockets. |
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Two things slow me down when swapping calibers... I like to clean the press well and relube. Primer depth setting adjustment and also swaging adjustment (if necessary) Other than that, the 1050 is easy like you said. However, I am getting tired of using one toolhead so I got a bunch recently to celebrate the new year. OP, RE: Powder sticking to check die.. maybe try dipping rod in graphite powder between calibers. I run 550 (low volume rifle) and 1050 (high volume)... and SL900 for shot. I run PC7 for odd stuff (black powder) and mid volume stuff. You can never have too many presses. I would not use a 650 due to primer system nor use 550 for pistol due to no auto index. That's just my opinion. Plenty of people don't agree and I don't care. They can do what they want. I know what I need and I have it. Hardest part of the decision in buying a press is trying to understand what you need without really understanding functionality. Took me years to figure out what works for me. Sounds like you have the money.. Buy a 550... if its not what you want, sell on EE. Wont lose all that much but you will gain a huge amount of knowledge. Money is no problem. Trying to sort out the pros and cons of each-that's the hard part. The SDB, would be perfect for pistol in .380, 9mm and .45 except for the tight toolhead, proprietary dies, and short handle, that would get tough on the arms. The 550B, I'm not sure about. I don't think I want to get used to manually indexing the press, and with a four station toolhead and the possibility of a no charge/double charge if you err in the manual index process, I don't want to go there. The XL650 with casefeeder would be most like the LNL I had. I had no problem learning the changeover process. The drawbacks are you need to add a live primer recovery system, a spent primer recovery system, and possibly a shellplate bearing system to smooth it out. The S1050 sounds dreamy. I'd like to tame that monster. Two, one for large, one for small primers, a Giraud trimmer that keeps chips off the press and inside outside chamfers while trimming, the swager on the 1050 and a wet tumbling setup-you can do it all, in a minimum amount of time. I think my problem is me. I have too many rifle calibers. I will not give up my .380, .38 Special/.357 Mag, 9mm, or .45 in pistol. My weakness is rifle calibers. I currently own (not including rimfires of course) .17 Ackley Hornet, .17 Fireball, .17-.223, .19 Calhoon, .19 Badger, .204 Ruger, .221 Fireball, .222 Remington, .223, 6x45, .22-.250, .243, .250 (.250-3000) Savage, 7mm-08 and .264 LBC (6.5 Grendel clone). |
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I load on the 650 in batches of thousands. I'll load every 45 acp case I have then not mess with it for a year. Same with blasting 223 and 9mm. I hate using it for a hundred rounds, personally. There is a reason auto drives aren't put on 650's, at least mine, is fiddly. I have to nudge this or that. Unless it's a 5k run I don't have the time or the effort to tune it each time.Â
For example my 308 has 100pcs of prepped brass. If I shoot it, it's usually couple dozen rounds. When I get home I reload what I shot on the coax. For a box or two of ammo I don't even use a powder measure. I use Lee dippers and trickle. It's easier for just a few cartridges. An electronic measure would be even better. Same with 38spl, 380, or other hunting rifle rounds. In the time it takes to change calibers and set up the powder measure and case feeder I'm finished with the coax. Id get the 1050 and use it for volume loading. Process 556 in your spare time and sell it in the EE. Use a nice single stage with quick change dies for anything less than a coupe of hundred rounds. It's faster IMHO. |
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I really don't understand why people are hung up on keeping the 1050 to a single caliber. If you don't have to switch over the priming system, it doesn't take very long to do a caliber change. I don't even have a spare tool head. I just use the hornady lock rings. I can swap between calibers in about 10 minutes. I've done 9mm, 38, 300bo, 223. Soon to do some 308 and 30-06. And yes, once you use one, you will never want to use anything else. One of these days I may buy another 550 for other odd caliber/small batch work, mainly because the caliber conversions are so much cheaper. I'm leaning more toward this line of thinking ;).  Currently loading 45, 9m and in the works to start processing/loading 223 on a 1050 (waiting on conversion kit - I got everything in and figured I would be setting up my trim toohead this weekend and realized I didn't have a conversion kit - doh! lol).  I have a 550 I use for 10mm and revolver cartridges - all coincidentally (or not :) calibers where a double charge would be obvious, and messy.  The  manual index and manual case feed is a non-issue at low volume, ie couple hundreds rounds at a session.  That being said, I'm very very tempted to move the 10mm over to the 1050 as I am starting to shoot it more and more, so have the 550 in the EE at the moment.  I have dedicated 1050 TH for 45, dedicated trim toolhead for processing brass, one for loading 223, and one for 9mm but I use lock rings on it because I will load 2-3K at once and put the dies up for a year lol.  So I'm thinking I can flip that toolhead to mostly 10mm use.  That just leaves 357 and 44 but I shoot so little of those by comparison I could transition that to the Forster. |
| For general blasting ammo, I have a Lee cast turret press next to my 650 and use it for the low volume rounds. Â 380,40, 10mm, 38, 357, 44mag, 45lc, 243,270, 30-06, 444 etc. Â Calibers changes are fast and extra tool heads are $10 i can prime on the press and I even made an adapter so I can use my Dillon powder measure. Â It's a lot faster than a single stage and has worked out well for me. |
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Quoted:
Do you have a powder check system on each 650 toolhead? Or do you have just one and move it from toolhead to toolhead? They are about $70 on Dillon's website, so for me, I couldn't really see outfitting each of my toolheads with a powder cop die/system. That's money that is better spent on reloading components, IMO. You only need 1 powder check, and then you add a powder check die to each too head to transfer the top portion of the powder check to the other tool heads (the die with lock ring is only $12 each). So when you set all the powder check mounting dies to the same height off the sub plate, all you have to do is unbolt the one bolt on the powder check, pull the top part of the powder check off the tool plate and install it on the next (the same way you do with the powder dispenser, since this die is set up for the adjustment of the powder through expander on that tool head). On the powder check rod and check sleeve, I make these myself, and it, like the powder through expander just stays with the head/conversion parts. So a quick run down to me setting up a head, I will order the tool head, a powder dispenser die with lock ring (it's just $12 as well), and powder checker mounting die with lock ring. Since I use Hornday dies, then I will pick up a Lee carbine FCD for my final bullet crimp in pistol/standard FCD for rifle, and then make a powder check check rod and sleeve to go with it for that caliber. The conversion kits have you covered the rest of the way, and it comes with a powder through expander that stays with head/conversion pieces as well. As for heads, I have them set for 9, 40, 45, 223 since this is what I crank out a ton of rounds, and then will have a single spare head with both powder and power check dies in it. The reason for the spare, lets face it, you have ton of other dies that your going to be reloading two and fews only, so no reason to set up a head full time for these, nor have to pull a head apart that you are using a great deal instead. So the spare head with both power check mounting die/lock ring, powder dispensor dies is only $50 for all three parts. Simple put, one of the great things on the 650, is that its easy and fast getting into the next caliber when you have tool heads already set up, even if you have to change out the primer system from large to small (5 mins max for all). I would love to same the same on the 1050, but when you are changing it out from small to large primer (or the other way around), it can be a PITA instead. Truth is, after a few times off having to get both the swage and primer set up correctly again by going back and forth between large and small primers (and have come off a 650 machine that only took you 2 min's to do this part instead), you just say screw it, and by another 1050 so you can leave each machine set up as a small and large primer machines instead. |
| I've been reading so much on all the which Dillon threads here and other forums. I went from deciding between the 550b and xl650 and now I'm looking xl650 or s1050. Priming won't be in the mix for me since I prefer to prime by hand with my RSBS APS hand priming tool so switching primer feeds won't matter for whichever system I decide. I can get a decked out 650 with extra tool head with trimmer far less than the 1050. So far I'm leaning to the 650 but still undecided. |
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Quoted:
I've been reading so much on all the which Dillon threads here and other forums. I went from deciding between the 550b and xl650 and now I'm looking xl650 or s1050. Priming won't be in the mix for me since I prefer to prime by hand with my RSBS APS hand priming tool so switching primer feeds won't matter for whichever system I decide. I can get a decked out 650 with extra tool head with trimmer far less than the 1050. So far I'm leaning to the 650 but still undecided. Gosh.. if you are priming by hand.. Not sure you are shooting enough to warrant the cost of the 1050. Get a 650. |
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Quoted:
I've been reading so much on all the which Dillon threads here and other forums. I went from deciding between the 550b and xl650 and now I'm looking xl650 or s1050. Priming won't be in the mix for me since I prefer to prime by hand with my RSBS APS hand priming tool so switching primer feeds won't matter for whichever system I decide. I can get a decked out 650 with extra tool head with trimmer far less than the 1050. So far I'm leaning to the 650 but still undecided. Respectfully, your "preference" makes no sense with regards to priming. You're costing yourself time with family, time reloading, and time shooting if you buy a progressive press and insist on this needless, time wasting step. Dillon priming works fine. |
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Quoted:
Respectfully, your "preference" makes no sense with regards to priming. You're costing yourself time with family, time reloading, and time shooting if you buy a progressive press and insist on this needless, time wasting step. Dillon priming works fine. Quoted:
Respectfully, your "preference" makes no sense with regards to priming. You're costing yourself time with family, time reloading, and time shooting if you buy a progressive press and insist on this needless, time wasting step. Dillon priming works fine. Quoted:
Gosh.. if you are priming by hand.. Not sure you are shooting enough to warrant the cost of the 1050. Get a 650. I hear you both and I'll have to give it a try. I'm so used to my single stage and that is where I gave up priming on the press because it was slow compared to priming by hand. I always have primed cases in stock ready to load. Maybe this Dillon press will change may ways. |
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I recently bought a 550B and I hate it!
I used to be able to escape to the garage and spend a few relaxing hours loading a couple hundred rounds. Now I can get the same amount done in about thirty minutes. That leaves FAR too much time for house cleaning and yard work! It's to the point where my beer doesn't even get warm. Rock Chucker on a wobbly table FTW. |
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Quoted:
I've been reading so much on all the which Dillon threads here and other forums. I went from deciding between the 550b and xl650 and now I'm looking xl650 or s1050. Priming won't be in the mix for me since I prefer to prime by hand with my RSBS APS hand priming tool so switching primer feeds won't matter for whichever system I decide. I can get a decked out 650 with extra tool head with trimmer far less than the 1050. So far I'm leaning to the 650 but still undecided. Priming simply is not a problem with a properly adjusted Dillon press. You would be better off with a turret press or the cheap brand of progressive. |
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Quoted:
If your going to prime by hand you will be doing it wrong, and giving up the advantage progressive presses have. Priming simply is not a problem with a properly adjusted Dillon press. You would be better off with a turret press or the cheap brand of progressive. Will definitely give the priming system a try. So far I have my mind set on the 650. |
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Quoted:
Will definitely give the priming system a try. So far I have my mind set on the 650. The biggest challenge I had with the priming process was remembering to push the handle ALL THE WAY forward. A few primers were not seated and the next stage poured powder into a case with a hole in the bottom. Messy! Once you get into a rhythm it becomes pretty natural. |
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Quoted:
The biggest challenge I had with the priming process was remembering to push the handle ALL THE WAY forward. A few primers were not seated and the next stage poured powder into a case with a hole in the bottom. Messy! Once you get into a rhythm it becomes pretty natural. I thgt you had to push the handle all the way forward to get the next case to be pushed all the way into station 1. |
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Quoted:
I thgt you had to push the handle all the way forward to get the next case to be pushed all the way into station 1. Nope. Pulling the handle all the way forward sizes and deprimes the case, then pushing the handle all the way forward seats a new primer. Forgetting the "push" step leaves you with a sized, but unprimed case. The second station senses the case, but can't tell if there's a primer, so it dumps the powder in. |
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Got a super 1050 on a trade deal. Ordered the 223 conversion kit. Took the upper half apart 4 times, inspect and lube and basically to see how each station works. Got the small primer system on order as this one came with the large kit. Just have to order the case trimmer and I'll be set to reduce my reloading stock
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