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3/1/2019 12:03:09 PM EDT
[#1]
Looking forward to continued progress
3/1/2019 1:34:14 PM EDT
[#2]
Imgur or if you're a paying member arfcom's own servers are great too.

I'm very interested in pics.
3/1/2019 2:59:31 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote History
Quoted:
I disagree. My LA5s are straight baller.

The MAWL is overpriced
View Quote
Non-shadester LA-5s cost more than MAWLs, and with the VCSEL technology, the MAWL-DA's field performance is more on par with the LA-5, with the MAWL-C1+ being more an equivalent to the PEQ-15.

The MAWL is also the most affordable of the next gen. LAM/MFAL systems like the NGAL and RAID-X, which are likely to be similarly priced if there ever are Class I versions released, while the MAWL-C1+ already exists.

With large budgets and restricted-power laser systems in play, there are some devices that might put up a fight against the MAWL. But Class I? Not really for performance package. That doesn't mean others aren't usable, I've got some ATPIAL-Cs and other units on stuff still that I can use for some applications, but while they may offer some users similar utility, they don't offer similar performance, except for maybe the DBAL-D2 with its visible LED signature and dumpster-fire ergonomics.

~Augee
3/1/2019 9:24:27 PM EDT
[#4]
The small hole on the body of the DBAL near the illuminator lens next to the large hole is where the the detent for the illuminator is. First you must dig out the epoxy to get to the flathead screw. I found a pencil tip on a soldering iron worked well.


Illuminator lens assembly removed. The cuts on the barrel are what the spring loaded detent engage to provide “Clicks” as the illuminator is focused.


Illuminator diode exposed. No visible filter can be seen on the laser.


Small PCB for IR Illuminator. IR Illuminator is on side closest to “FIRE” button:


Green PCB is for visible laser and gold PCB is for IR laser. You will notice they are both going into the same hole of the DBAL:


Other side of PCB for IR pointer. The 4 screws holding the body together are potted with some sort of silicone or rubber. I found heating it up with a heat gun I could remove the material in one piece to get to the 4 Allen screws holding the body together. There is a screw holding the selector dial on, but I later found out that it doesn’t need to be removed.
3/1/2019 9:38:36 PM EDT
[#5]
WOW

Thanks for those pictures. The drive boards don't look overly complicated, and at first blush, I don't see anything to vary output current or voltage, either.
3/1/2019 10:33:20 PM EDT
[#6]
it looks like the ic is a linear technology 1635 op amp, being used as a current regulator

digikey.com/products

http://www.linear.com/docs/1992

edit - the next step would be to try to identify the laser diode, but most likely there will be no markings on it.

the other thing to do would be to take readings of the voltage and current going to the laser diode

also, if you are going to play around with ir laser diodes, get some laser safety glasses that cover the frequencies you are going to play around with. they might not completely keep you from getting eye damage from higher powered lasers, but might decrease the amount of damage you get
3/1/2019 11:18:15 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote History
Quoted:
it looks like the ic is a linear technology 1635 op amp, being used as a current regulator

digikey.com/products

http://www.linear.com/docs/1992

edit - the next step would be to try to identify the laser diode, but most likely there will be no markings on it.

the other thing to do would be to take readings of the voltage and current going to the laser diode

also, if you are going to play around with ir laser diodes, get some laser safety glasses that cover the frequencies you are going to play around with. they might not completely keep you from getting eye damage from higher powered lasers, but might decrease the amount of damage you get
View Quote
Unfortunately, getting readings off of the PCB’s will be difficult because they are completely covered in some epoxy potting material.

Also, the laser diodes ARE NOT coming out, they a glued into the aluminum housing. I do not see how they could be removed without completely destroying the unit.
3/2/2019 9:29:38 AM EDT
[#8]
Any pics of the IR illuminator lens retention?

I think most people would be happy with the unit if it could just tight focus for longer distances. Maybe a replacement lens could do that?

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