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Posted: 4/10/2012 7:28:43 AM EDT
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So as not to totally hijack the other thread I posted this in, I'll start a new one here. This is the conversion part I made to make trimming brass in a Harbor Freight mini cutoff saw (http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-cut-off-saw-42307.html) really quick and repeatable.
Part drawing: 
With brass: 
Action shot: 
Video: 
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Really slick!
That saw looks like it works a lot better than I would have expected. I've been using an LE Wilson case trimmer bolted vertically in a drill press w a modified 223 case holder (had to be counter bored with a 1/2" drill bit due to the shorter case). MUCH slower than your method. |
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Quoted:
Really slick! That saw looks like it works a lot better than I would have expected. I've been using an LE Wilson case trimmer bolted vertically in a drill press w a modified 223 case holder (had to be counter bored with a 1/2" drill bit due to the shorter case). MUCH slower than your method. I was surprised at how easily it goes through brass the first time I used it. Blades are relatively cheap, and I haven't even worn one out yet. |
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I'm not a machinist, but it looks like all you needed was to screw the stop into the metal block that come with the saw so the brass case remains at the same distance from the saw blade.
What is the L-shaped thing in the blueprint that has the 1.19 clearance? I don't see it in the picture. I guess I'm just confused. |
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Quoted:
I'm not a machinist, but it looks like all you needed was to screw the stop into the metal block that come with the saw so the brass case remains at the same distance from the saw blade. What is the L-shaped thing in the blueprint that has the 1.19 clearance? I don't see it in the picture. I guess I'm just confused. The 1.190 clearance goes around the metal block you're talking about. The 10-24 setscrew holds that in place. The cutout on the other side sets the head of the case the correct distance from the blade to cut off the amount of material I want to remove. The problem was two-fold - the moving jaw of the little vise the saw came with is REALLY loose, so the round can be off by a good 7-10 degrees, resulting in crunches in the sizing die (and therefore, wasted brass and time). Beyond this, the stop needed to be set beyond the end of the stationary vise block. As it is, this piece is actually ridiculously easy to manufacture on a mill. |
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I just made a simple hinged jig that indexes off the front of the mini chop saw and the vice. Works slick and I can do about a dozen a minute.
Video below. I can actually go much faster but went slow to demonstrate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ukuy8CRfko&context=C4c6bb56ADvjVQa1PpcFNZcJecce3dkPFYEc6uiqaPYiCofQlEnQo= And a couple pics. 
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Quoted: what kind of life are you getting on the saw blade. I got about 200 piece of brass and my blade is dull. I bought some extra blades when I bought my saw, I've cut off about 300 to 400 so far, no evidence of dulling on my saw, the original blade is still in it. A comment in the video at the very top about lubing the inside of the neck or you will crunch cases, I haven't been using any lube inside the case neck and have had no problems at all. As I previously mentioned I have made about 300 to 400 cases myself, as well as buying 500 cases, I have reloaded close to 1,000 rounds of 300 blackout using Lee dies, never lubed the case neck, no problems at all. I do use a spray lube, some Hornady and some Dillon, I'm sure a little gets inside the neck, but not too much. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
what kind of life are you getting on the saw blade. I got about 200 piece of brass and my blade is dull. I bought some extra blades when I bought my saw, I've cut off about 300 to 400 so far, no evidence of dulling on my saw, the original blade is still in it. A comment in the video at the very top about lubing the inside of the neck or you will crunch cases, I haven't been using any lube inside the case neck and have had no problems at all. As I previously mentioned I have made about 300 to 400 cases myself, as well as buying 500 cases, I have reloaded close to 1,000 rounds of 300 blackout using Lee dies, never lubed the case neck, no problems at all. I do use a spray lube, some Hornady and some Dillon, I'm sure a little gets inside the neck, but not too much. I was having trouble in my Redding dies with crunched cases - started making sure some lube wound up on the mandrel at least every third round or so, and I haven't had one since.Doesn't need to be much, and doesn't need to be often, but without lube, my dies make scrap like clockwork.YMMV, certainly. This is why I use collet dies on all my bolt guns. |
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I have been just using my rotozip with a cutoff blade.
Clamped it in my vice made a makeshift "table" for it with some paneling zip tied to the head Screwed a strip of wood down as a "fence" and zing, zing, zing, 300 BLK brass all day long....never bogs or slows down. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK (eye, ear, hand protection, etc....) |
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Quoted:
I use this first then off to the trimmer. I plan to go the Dillon trimmer route soon.  http://youtu.be/DVC2BQsHx0gDAMN, that beats the hell out a hacksaw or tubing cutter. Never was a fan of running a drill behind those small lathe trimmers, but that drill press setup looks awesome. |
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