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Posted: 1/1/2009 12:14:58 PM EDT
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I had my rifle out yesterday for the first time yesterday
and for the first time shooting any caliber over a .22LR and any time shooting over 100 yds I managed to keep the shots to 2 inches at 100 yards. However I did notice quite a bit of take up on my trigger (I'm assuming this is called creep) I'm not looking at spending any money to reduce it but willing to give some time I was thinking about doing something similar to my 10/22 by polishing a couple surfaces I'm wondering if this would make a difference at all Also if there is anything else I could do would someone post a link to getting rid of the creep I'm ok with the trigger pull i just don't want to have so much take up when I'm shooting would someone also post a couple links to DIY solutions for improving the trigger? moving on I was looking at the trigger mechanism and thinking if a small piece of metal was removed from the mechanism it would convert the gun to full auto when holding down the trigger. I definitely don't want this to happen and I don't want to go further in detail about it but it seems that there is a 1/16" between full auto and semi auto ....am i right or not? ~please don't go into any further discussion about illegal conversions into full auto I just want to know if my understanding of the trigger mechanism is correct |
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Thanks for the quick reply. I'm really just looking for a way to polish a couple surfaces to reduce the creep. There is a lot of take up on my trigger and I'd like to reduce it if I could. But I'm not really interested in paying anyone money to do it, or buying new parts. Like I said I shot pretty decent group for my first time shooting the gun and first time shooting anything over 50 yds. I just want less creep/take up and I'd like it the cheap DIY way.
~j |
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Yes I have the 15 minute trigger job and have looked it over and done the polishing of the sear surface. I still have quite a bit of take up/creep that I'm trying to get rid of. I know there has to be a way, if i need to install a set screw to prevent overtravel or something of the sort I'm fully capable of doing so. I'm not into cutting and bending my springs as I have heard mixed reviews on the success of doing so.
I need a way to reduce/eliminate the creep of my stock trigger but still avoiding the danger of accidental double taps or full auto. I know someone has done this with their gun I would greatly appreciate a detailed explanation of a way that someone has personally used. If it helps I have a stock CMMG lower with a CMMG lower parts kit factory installed. |
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Heres something I did to get rid of the creep in my trigger.
Put your weapon on safe, and pull on the trigger. If it has some slack that it takes up with it on safe, you can do this without having to do much of anything to you trigger group. Go to your local hardware store, and get a 1/4"x28tpi(threads per inch) allen screw that is 1/4" of an inch long, and one tube of BLUE loctite. This a grub type srew with no head on it. Go home, pull your take down pins, and remove your upper. Remove your pistol grip, your safety detent, and spring will come out when you remove your pistol grip. With that all removed, put that 1/4" grub screw in the same screw hole your grip screw goes into. Screw it in until it touches the bottom of the trigger. Set your weapon to safe, and turn the screw until it just BARELY starts to get snug. Work your safety, and make sure it's not in a bind. If the safety binds back the screw a little bit at a time until it moves like it's supposed to. Now cock the hammer, put your thumb over the bolt catch, or a rag. Something to keep the hammer from striking the bolt catch over and over. Set your trigger on fire, and give it a little sqeeze. Keep changing your screw setting until the pull is what you want, but be sure your safety still operates, and your disconnector will release. You can't make the trigger un safe if your safety will still operate. All you are doing is removing all the slack in front of the safety. If you want it even shorter, you can remove your trigger and hammer, and take some material off the TOP of the trigger, where it conatacts the safety. Keep in mind, if you do this, you are now entering the world of potential danger with an unsafe trigger. The first thing you will run into before it gets unsafe though, is that the trigger will be 'pre-pulled' far enough the the disconnector will catch your hammer, and your weapon will not fire at all. Keep cocking the hammer all the way back. Not just to the point that the sear engages, but to the point the disconnector will catch your hammer. If you can release the trigger form a full pull, and the disconnector releases, and the sear catches, your fine. If you release the trigger and the disonnector still has the hammer trapped, you have it set to short for your parts. Once you decide you do like the trigger settings, you can back it out, put one drop of blue loctite on the screw,(not very much!) and put the screw back in, set it, and leave it. I did alot of things to mine, including shortening the disconnector. I have a fairly short, heavy pull, with no noticeable creep. I don't mind a heavy trigger, but I don't like the creep. Anytime you remove metal on a disconnector,trigger, or hammer contact surface, you remove the case hardening. For a guy with basic tools, I would recommned taking the slack in front of the safety out, and leaving it at that. I rehardened my parts after I was done. I didnt need to remove much from the trigger top, because I had a lot of slack in front of my safety, but I did take about 15 thousandths from my disconnector and then rehardened it. If you decide you don't like the trigger anymore, you can remove the screw and put it back to factory settings. Good luck, be careful WORK SLOW, and don't be tempted to turn that screw way in. I know guys that can bump fire their weapons. Thats not a good thing, no matter how cool it will look uploaded on youtube. 
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moving on I was looking at the trigger mechanism and thinking if a small piece of metal was removed from the mechanism it would convert the gun to full auto when holding down the trigger. I definitely don't want this to happen and I don't want to go further in detail about it but it seems that there is a 1/16" between full auto and semi auto
....am i right or not? ~please don't go into any further discussion about illegal conversions into full auto I just want to know if my understanding of the trigger mechanism is correct I wouldn't call it full auto exactly. I would call it, uncontrolled rapid firing that will most likley cause your weapon to fire out of battery repeatedly. But you are correct in the basic understanding. When it fires the hammer goes all the way down and hooks the disconnector. When the bolt carrier goes forward the disconnect stops the weapon from firing until you have left off the trigger. at that point the trigger should be up enough that when the disconnector releases, the sear catches the hammer. Without the disconenctor working, it will most likely fire repeatedly, but also with the bolt not locked into battery. You'll get cases blowing apart, powder burns.. All kinds of nifty things. |
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Quoted:
moving on I was looking at the trigger mechanism and thinking if a small piece of metal was removed from the mechanism it would convert the gun to full auto when holding down the trigger. I definitely don't want this to happen and I don't want to go further in detail about it but it seems that there is a 1/16" between full auto and semi auto
....am i right or not? ~please don't go into any further discussion about illegal conversions into full auto I just want to know if my understanding of the trigger mechanism is correct I wouldn't call it full auto exactly. I would call it, uncontrolled rapid firing that will most likley cause your weapon to fire out of battery repeatedly. But you are correct in the basic understanding. When it fires the hammer goes all the way down and hooks the disconnector. When the bolt carrier goes forward the disconnect stops the weapon from firing until you have left off the trigger. at that point the trigger should be up enough that when the disconnector releases, the sear catches the hammer. Without the disconenctor working, it will most likely fire repeatedly, but also with the bolt not locked into battery. You'll get cases blowing apart, powder burns.. All kinds of nifty things. Thats what I was thinking about. Not wanting to do it but also to make sure that when screwing with the trigger that part would have to function flawlessly. |
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Thank you shooter64738. I will try your method soon.
My lower is not threaded through entirely but i will either fully thread it or take the threads of the end of a longer set screw to reach the trigger, whichever way works easier. There is a post in this forum about dropping a dime into your lower to remove some creep. I just did this the other day and it worked wonders but i'm sure that i will use shooter64738's method to finely tune my trigger. But the with the dime I think it took about 3 minutes to suck up a lot of creep and its about 3 minutes to take it out. I'm going out tomorrow to sight in my "new to me" scope, yup the second scope in one week, and once i've got it zeroed I'll install a set screw in my lower to fine tune my groups. Thanks for all the help and I'm super excited about getting out to shoot again. |
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