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12/7/2013 10:25:13 AM EDT
WTFO?
This is my 5th build, all others were straightforward and easy if you follow the kickass guide in here.

So, hammer and trigger pins not long enoug.  And basically had to hammer the takedown pins in....  this thing is NOT field serviceable if it requires a hammer and punch to take the damn thing apart.
12/7/2013 10:34:00 AM EDT
[#1]
Mine is a little bit tight.  It gets better with time.  Still can't take mine apart with just fingers, but since it is a pistol caliber it is more of a range toy than a serious use rifle.



I do have a .223 upper which can be opened easily.  But, if I have to use that one, then my upper and lower will be mismatched.
12/7/2013 10:41:55 AM EDT
[#2]
Yes, a couple, old CavArms and new GWACS. Eventually I could push the front pin in by hand but I still have to tap the rear pin in and out.

Hammer and trigger pins are long enough. The spring legs sit in the slots, the pins don't walk, everything works, the pins just aren't flush with the sides of the receiver.
12/7/2013 11:19:10 AM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:

So, hammer and trigger pins not long enoug.
View Quote


Order the hammer pin from Mag Tactical, theirs fit perfectly.
12/7/2013 6:57:29 PM EDT
[#4]
Just bought one today actually. It's gonna be my new dedicated coyote hunting rig, so we shall see!
12/7/2013 7:05:30 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
So, hammer and trigger pins not long enoug.  
View Quote

http://www.gwacsarmory.com/tech-support/
CAV-15 MKII Receiver
Assembly Instructions

Notes to Gunsmiths and Armorers:

* Takedown Pins: Use the supplied speed pins to secure your upper receiver to your CAV-15 lower receiver. If you lose or misplace the supplied pins, replacement pins can be ordered from Cavalry Arms at a cost of $5.00 a piece.

* The CAV-15 MKII lower receiver uses a carbine buffer and spring.

* The CAV-15 MKII lower receiver uses standard mil-spec fire control pins. Though the area of the receiver that accepts the hammer pin is wider than aluminum AR15 receivers, it uses a standard fire control pins. Simply center the pin in the hole, and ensure it catches on the J-pin in the hammer.

* Check all pinholes before you Assemble gun! Parts vary slightly between manufacturers and some parts may fit tighter than others, especially the safety selector detent.

* Safety selector detent pin/spring load from the top. The spring may need to be trimmed for proper fit. The top of the detent should sit at 0.20” (+/- 0.020) from the base of the selector hole.

* Bolt hold open spring will need to be trimmed 1 to 1½ coils for the last round hold-open to function with older/weak magazines.

* The 5/64th roll pin attached to this sheet is to capture your buffer detent pin and spring.
12/7/2013 7:11:47 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Quoted:
Mine is a little bit tight.  It gets better with time.  Still can't take mine apart with just fingers, but since it is a pistol caliber it is more of a range toy than a serious use rifle.

<a href="http://s294.photobucket.com/user/grendelbane6/media/industrialnetAR.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm90/grendelbane6/industrialnetAR.jpg</a>

I do have a .223 upper which can be opened easily.  But, if I have to use that one, then my upper and lower will be mismatched.
View Quote



That's a good looking carbine.

Here's a little older pic of mine;



It's now wearing matching blue handguards with the vertical foregrip.
12/7/2013 7:15:20 PM EDT
[#7]
If we're posting pics:



I'm going to replace the upper with a standard forged piece, because that Mega SBU is a fatty.
12/7/2013 7:56:30 PM EDT
[#8]
I have a bunch of 'em ..here is one of the DI45's I built.......they run GREAT on the Cav lower..

12/31/2013 7:02:31 PM EDT
[#9]

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