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10/4/2007 10:37:14 AM EDT
So I bought and shot my first AR several days ago (a beautiful 6920). Zeroed him in at fifty yards with good results. My only complaint is that the trigger creeps. I was wondering if there was anything I could do to reduce/eliminate the creep without getting a new large pin trigger group. Any help is appreciated.
10/4/2007 10:56:13 AM EDT
[#1]
OK, here we go. These will work, but don't go outside your skill level in machining.

You can put some Permatex on the bottom of the back of the trigger, spray some oil into he bottom of the receiver, put the drop of sealer on the cleaned trigger and install with the trigger pulled against the safety ( a rubber band helps).

You can shave material off the bottom of the hammer where the sear surfaces contact.
Be very careful here, or you'll be doubling.

You can drill & tap the receiver through the pistol grip attachment for a set screw that will contact the bottom/back of the trigger. Then tighten it up while the safety is on.

You can drill & tap the trigger where the disconnector ends for a set screw that will be just to the front of the selector. (The material will be VERY hard, get a tough bit/tap combo.)

Polish the sear surfaces while your at it, it will smooth things up quite nicely.

10/4/2007 11:08:14 AM EDT
[#2]
Hm... good deal. I'll sit down later tonight and take it apart and look into this. Thanks, M4builder.
10/4/2007 1:00:40 PM EDT
[#3]
Or you can purchase a Chip McCormic trigger module that is a drop in unit or you can purchase a Timmy trigger module that is a drop in unit.
10/4/2007 3:36:05 PM EDT
[#4]
someone makes a replacement bolt for the grip that has a set screw already in it. can't remember where I saw it though.
10/4/2007 7:26:01 PM EDT
[#5]
One of my trigger jobs removes all the creep and cuts the pull weight in half. Other styles of work still have a fair amount creep, but do reduce the pull weight.

Email if interested,

Bill

[email protected]
10/4/2007 7:28:01 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
One of my trigger jobs removes all the creep and cuts the pull weight in half. Other styles of work still have a fair amount creep, but do reduce the pull weight.

Email if interested,

Bill

[email protected]


I sent my trigger group to you, and I couldn't be happier with the results.

DO IT
10/4/2007 9:16:10 PM EDT
[#7]
Bill, I'll be e-mailing you tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up.
10/5/2007 12:16:56 PM EDT
[#8]
or wait untill gieselle puts out there new 2 stage that is $145....
10/5/2007 1:47:30 PM EDT
[#9]
M4Builder, interesting set of modifications.

Can you explain the permatex part?  What does it do?  Does it accomplish the same thing as the drill,tap,screw by the grip?

I've been doing a little polishing, but that doesn't remove creep, just makes it smoother.

Thanks
10/5/2007 1:51:32 PM EDT
[#10]
By putting the permatex under the back of the trigger it keeps the trigger raised in the rear like the set screw does.
10/5/2007 5:38:43 PM EDT
[#11]
M4Builder,

I had no permatex laying around, so substituted some fast-setting epoxy.  I can feel a little resistance in the selector/safety when I put it on "safe", but it goes safe and functions normally.  There's no play in the trigger when it's on safe.

Big difference in creep, there's only a little left.  I'll shoot with it like this for a while, to see if it's annoying before stoning the hammer.

Thanks for that tip.

Another question:  Why does the hammer have a "spur"?  When I push the hammer "past" cocked, the spur contacts the disconnector.  Does that contact have something to do with the spur's purpose?  Would "bobbing" the spur do good/harm in terms of hammer speed and reliability?  It seemed to help my 1911, but that's a different animal.  Plus, the spur on the AR15 doesn't bite my hand.  Not dremeling yet, but wondering ...

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