AR Sponsor
Posted: 9/14/2025 6:02:28 PM EDT
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This thread will be dedicated to Hoffman style Super Safeties in AR type rifles. It will include .223/5.56 guns....and 9mm guns. What this thread will be for is for folks to post up and share what set-ups they are using. In essence, a guide for others to follow when trouble shooting the Hoffman style Super Safety. This includes trigger cuts, lower receiver high shelf reduction mods, buffers, springs, BCG mods on 9mm BCG's, upper receivers mods, and the solutions they have found that work. This will be purely tech, so if you have a question about your issues, read the thread 1st. If your issue isn't answered by reading the thread for answers, post your issue in your own thread. And at this point, your AR15 .223/5.56 build should already have the safety installed, verified low shelf behind the safety hole, H-1 or H-2 buffer, and a FA BCG. If you have an AR15 9mm build, you should have the safety installed, verified low shelf behind the safety hole, modified the 9mm BCG weight if it's required. I'll start this thread with a common issue...... BCG is binding when you pull back on the charging handle. Usually this is caused by the end of the safety lever being just a little thick. How I solve this is with a sanding drum on a Dremel. Attached File Attached File I remove .015-.020 of the material from where the arrow is pointed Then I polish that area with a fine scotch Brite ball using the Dremel. Only remove material from the area with the red arrow. Lightly deburr any sharp edges. You should be between .104 and .099 when you are done. Attached File Re-install the components and go through the function check. With a finger on the trigger, in SS mode, pull the charging handle multiple times. Do it with the gun pointing straight, parallel to the floor. If it passes....do the same function test with the gun pointed at the floor. If it passes....you are done. If it doesn't pass both positions, remove another .005 of material, polish the area again, assemble, and do the function check again. Do not go beyond .095 of thickness. If it still doesn't pass, verify your lever has no interference behind the safety hole, verify trigger cut is at the correct dimensions and not binding the cam while the lever travels in it's arc. This can be done with the upper removed, removing the buffer and spring, set the hammer back, and placing the BCG in its forward position onto the lower. Then you slide the BCG into the buffer tube while holding the trigger back, and watching the lever operate the cam and trigger. As you slide the BCG forward, you should feel the trigger pulse and see the hammer being released. |
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Thanks IdahoPCCinc for starting a dedicated thread for this unsung hero style of FRT! These work and work very well. This is exactly what I have been doing with mine in Anderson receivers and PAA uppers. Out of sick curiosity, I modified one of my receivers today with a needle file reducing the area behind the cam where it was milled.  Using a new lever, it still bound up slightly. I considered reducing it a little more until the circular cut would have been straightened out between the walls. I opted to just use the modded lever that is in it now and working. I do think this will allow for a little more rearward travel and eliminate the need to mod levers in the future if there is ever any breakage. Regarding buffers and weights, I have had a 100% success rate with H3’s in carbine tubes and standard and the KynSHOT buffers for standard tubes. |
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Quoted: Thanks IdahoPCCinc for starting a dedicated thread for this unsung hero style of FRT! These work and work very well. This is exactly what I have been doing with mine in Anderson receivers and PAA uppers. Out of sick curiosity, I modified one of my receivers today with a needle file reducing the area behind the cam where it was milled. https://i.postimg.cc/wMDpNDDP/IMG-3468.jpg Using a new lever, it still bound up slightly. I considered reducing it a little more until the circular cut would have been straightened out between the walls. I opted to just use the modded lever that is in it now and working. I do think this will allow for a little more rearward travel and eliminate the need to mod levers in the future if there is ever any breakage. Regarding buffers and weights, I have had a 100% success tate with H3’s in carbine tubes and standard and the KynSHOT buffers for standard tubes. Here's a diagram that explains what has to be done to a high shelf upper. Enough material needs to be removed behind the safety to allow the lever to travel along its arc of travel completely. Attached File This diagram is more in tune with what a mill or router jig can accomplish with the cut shown in red. But if a person with some skills can remove enough of that material at a 45-60 degree angled ramp (the green line) you should be fine as long as the lever can complete the arc of travel and reset the trigger. . |
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