AR Sponsor
Posted: 9/9/2009 11:37:38 AM EDT
Alright so I have been doing a little research and a lot of dreaming. The dealer at my gun shop finally got to my weakness with two stripped RRA lowers for a real nice price. So I am finally going to start building my first AR. I have plans to take one and gear it more towards accuracy for varmint hunting and target shooting (match grade trigger, about a 24'' barrel, scope, bolt action those kind of things). The second I am planning to make for the God forsaken Zombie attacks at the end of the world.  . I have notice a good difference on the prices of parts and accessories that I can get from online and the parts that my dealer can get. And now that I have the stripped lower I no longer need a FFL. I am going to Hold of on building the accurate rifle and so I can have an AR to ease the school boy excitement with. So I am going to build the Zombie gun first. My question for you guys are what are the best places to get some good parts at good prices? What are some good references for problems that my come up during the build? What are some parts and accessories that you wish you had gotten or stayed away from during your builds/modifications? Any help you guys can give will be great and I hope to post some pictures of my completed rifle real soon.
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thanks. I also forgot to mention i got them both in 5.56. Remember your lowers are not limited to 5.56 and it really doesn't matter what caliber your lowers are stamped. You can make a .22, 9mm, 223/5.56, 6.5, 6.8, etc with the same lower. 5.56 marking is only important on the chamber in the barrel. |
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Good prices and service.
http://www.jsesurplus.com/index.aspx Lots of info. http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782 |
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If I could do it all over again...
Buy quality stuff the first time. Don't settle for "good enough." Have a plan. Write it down. Don't buy spontaneously. If you're putting a collapsible stock on, start with milspec stuff. Buy the best bolt carrier group you can afford. BCM, Youngs or Colt are considered top shelf. Search, search and search some more. Barrels: chrome lined or stainless. Used parts are a great way to save money. I don't buy used "wear items" bolts, barrels, magazines, etc. Don't buy anything off gunbroker. Don't buy junk optics. Nothing from China/eBay. Don't shoot other peoples reloads out of your gun. Don't buy "gunshow" reloads. |
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If I could do it all over again... Buy quality stuff the first time. Don't settle for "good enough." Have a plan. Write it down. Don't buy spontaneously. If you're putting a collapsible stock on, start with milspec stuff. Buy the best bolt carrier group you can afford. BCM, Youngs or Colt are considered top shelf. Search, search and search some more. Barrels: chrome lined or stainless. Used parts are a great way to save money. I don't buy used "wear items" bolts, barrels, magazines, etc. Don't buy anything off gunbroker. Don't buy junk optics. Nothing from China/eBay. Don't shoot other peoples reloads out of your gun. Don't buy "gunshow" reloads. Double tap I went cheap on very few things, but everyone one I did I regret it..... next build here I come Only thing I can recommend is if you want FF quad forearm YHM Diamonds are awesome for the price. |
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...I have plans to take one and gear it more towards accuracy for varmint hunting and target shooting (match grade trigger, about a 24'' barrel, scope, bolt action those kind of things). Can you clarify what you are considering here? Well the second rifle will be more of a serious rifle with accuracy being the greatest concern. I want to use it for range shooting and varmint hunting. I want one to be just a toy for plicking and a conversation starter. The other for more serious shooting. Thanks guys for the great advice. I have been reading about all types of AR platforms for about a year now. However, just in this thread alone I have already learned some new things. Just goes to show there is always something new to learn. |
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thanks. I also forgot to mention i got them both in 5.56. Remember your lowers are not limited to 5.56 and it really doesn't matter what caliber your lowers are stamped. You can make a .22, 9mm, 223/5.56, 6.5, 6.8, etc with the same lower. 5.56 marking is only important on the chamber in the barrel. Now this is something new to me. I thought that you had to go with what was stamped on it, so long as you didn't go with a larger caliber. What I mean is you could go smaller than the caliber that is stamped on the receiver, but couldn't go larger. Like buying a .22 conversion kits (which I haven't spent any time looking at). But I didn't think you could go with a larger caliber. I knew that the barrel and the rest of the upper have to me made for the specific caliber. Do not think I am trying to say you wrong but. I had plans (more of a dream) to buy a .308/51 lower to build, and if this is the case, I could greatly save some money until I could afford another lower, and just swap uppers whenever I wanted to. |
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thanks. I also forgot to mention i got them both in 5.56. Remember your lowers are not limited to 5.56 and it really doesn't matter what caliber your lowers are stamped. You can make a .22, 9mm, 223/5.56, 6.5, 6.8, etc with the same lower. 5.56 marking is only important on the chamber in the barrel. Now this is something new to me. I thought that you had to go with what was stamped on it, so long as you didn't go with a larger caliber. What I mean is you could go smaller than the caliber that is stamped on the receiver, but couldn't go larger. Like buying a .22 conversion kits (which I haven't spent any time looking at). But I didn't think you could go with a larger caliber. I knew that the barrel and the rest of the upper have to me made for the specific caliber. Do not think I am trying to say you wrong but. I had plans (more of a dream) to buy a .308/51 lower to build, and if this is the case, I could greatly save some money until I could afford another lower, and just swap uppers whenever I wanted to. Yeah you can't put a 308 on it but you do have options about what caliber you build. You can do a 9mm or 6.8 on the same lower marked 5.56 for example. Do a little research on what calibers are compatible with just a swap of the upper assembly. |
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