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Simple fix for the rear takedown detent spring blues.... (Page 3 of 6)
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I just did this three days ago, on my first build. I really appreciate the tip and the pictorial. I had no problems finding the 4/40 set screws (they had both stainless and parkerized), as well as the tap, at my local True value. I bought 5 or 6 of the screws at 13 cents each, and the tap. Total cost was under $5.00
I love it! |
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I've been doing this mod to all of my AR Lower Receiver's, for the last couple of years now. I don't remember where I saw or heard of it, but I thought it was a gredat solution to changing stocks without the hassle of the takedown pin spring getting lost or damaged. I know for a fact that it was not my idea. This is one of those KISS solutions.
I have also drilled a small hole from the inside of the receiver and installed a Roll Pin and captured the Buffer Retainer. I was really sweating that one !!!! But the Buffer Retainer never gets lost now. I tried doing this mod to the Selector Detent Spring hole and discovered that the spring would be too short, and place too much tension on the selector, making it inoperable. So now I've been looking for a small threaded tube that can be used for the Selector Detent Spring. But as yet, I have had no luck. I have discovered that the spring has to have a little length to it, so that it won't put too much tension on the selector. Anyone got any ideas on this one ???? Chief |
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Originally Posted By mortismaker:
Is anyone concerned with the lower not having any anodizing after being threaded, or that the cut spring will not have any finish on it. From a corrosion stand point I mean? Oxidized Al is tougher than Type III Hard coat and I don't think the springs are coated [not sure what they are made from exactly]. |
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Originally Posted By 1NAVYCHIEF-RET: You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that, would you?I've been doing this mod to all of my AR Lower Receiver's, for the last couple of years now. I don't remember where I saw or heard of it, but I thought it was a gredat solution to changing stocks without the hassle of the takedown pin spring getting lost or damaged. I know for a fact that it was not my idea. This is one of those KISS solutions. I have also drilled a small hole from the inside of the receiver and installed a Roll Pin and captured the Buffer Retainer. I was really sweating that one !!!! But the Buffer Retainer never gets lost now. I tried doing this mod to the Selector Detent Spring hole and discovered that the spring would be too short, and place too much tension on the selector, making it inoperable. So now I've been looking for a small threaded tube that can be used for the Selector Detent Spring. But as yet, I have had no luck. I have discovered that the spring has to have a little length to it, so that it won't put too much tension on the selector. Anyone got any ideas on this one ???? Chief |
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Originally Posted By kaos:
Originally Posted By 1NAVYCHIEF-RET:
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that, would you?
I've been doing this mod to all of my AR Lower Receiver's, for the last couple of years now. I don't remember where I saw or heard of it, but I thought it was a gredat solution to changing stocks without the hassle of the takedown pin spring getting lost or damaged. I know for a fact that it was not my idea. This is one of those KISS solutions. I have also drilled a small hole from the inside of the receiver and installed a Roll Pin and captured the Buffer Retainer. I was really sweating that one !!!! But the Buffer Retainer never gets lost now. I tried doing this mod to the Selector Detent Spring hole and discovered that the spring would be too short, and place too much tension on the selector, making it inoperable. So now I've been looking for a small threaded tube that can be used for the Selector Detent Spring. But as yet, I have had no luck. I have discovered that the spring has to have a little length to it, so that it won't put too much tension on the selector. Anyone got any ideas on this one ???? Chief +1 |
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Originally Posted By mzimmers:
For those of you who had to buy 100 of the set screws, if anyone wants to sell me a handful of them (say 10 or so), name a fair price and I'll PayPal you the $$. (I hope it's OK to make this offer in this thread/forum; if not, sorry.) PM me your info and I can send you 5 or so |
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Originally Posted By EKKsoldier622:
I just realized my Spikes Tactical Lower has this hole tapped at a 4-40 1/8" already, I'm loving it. Now THAT is a nice touch. |
If at first you don't succeed, try, try again. Then quit. No use being a damn fool about it.
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Originally Posted By Powder_Burns:
OK, while we are at it....anyone want to try and tap the bolt catch roll pin holes and use a set screw to keep the bolt catch in place? I just hate roll pins, taper pins, spring pins, cotter pins... Nice idea, and certainly not impossible, but...you'd need to really be careful starting the tap EXACTLY parallel to the hole in the first "ear" if you want to pick up the second ear just right. This effort would be made more problematic by the lack of room to swing a tap wrench. This is one I'm not sure I'd want to do by hand, though the manufacturers could do it for us. You'd also need to decide whether the catch contacting the screw threads was worth worrying about. Intriguing idea, though. |
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Originally Posted By slowtrigger: Uhm.I wish I would of noticed this tip about 10 detent springs ago. will be tapping all my lowers, just need to find the best thread lube/protection in can. have graphite that should work. Huh? You lost me. |
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Originally Posted By kaos:
Originally Posted By slowtrigger:
Uhm.
I wish I would of noticed this tip about 10 detent springs ago. will be tapping all my lowers, just need to find the best thread lube/protection in can. have graphite that should work. Huh? You lost me. Ya me to? Are you talking about some kind of "anti-seize" protection for the threads ... like the moly grease on a barrel nut? |
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Originally Posted By slowtrigger:
I wish I would of noticed this tip about 10 detent springs ago. will be tapping all my lowers, just need to find the best thread lube/protection in can. have graphite that should work. I just used a little CLP while I ran the tap in the hole... worked fine... |
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I did this to my AR15 lowers this week. Sears had the 4-40 tap, Craftsman branded. If it breaks Sears will replace it, but we do not wish to go there.
My local ACE Hardware had the 4-40 x 1/8" screws, but only had the slot head style. The slot head did not present a problem. |
| I don't know why people keep saying this mod is not feasible for the safety selector because it is... Use a 8/32 Tap and get the corresponding set screws shortest u can find. Then either use a .125 ball bearing. What I use... Or u can cut down your existing detent... powertools most likely needed here. I then cut down the spring, install safety, bb, spring, set screw with blue loctite and the beauty of this is you can adjust the tension of the safety to your liking by moving the screw in or out. When I get home I can get pics if people want, but its pretty self explanatory... Hope Navyretired guy gets this... |
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Originally Posted By 1967Camaro: I measure the depth of the detente hole in the lower from flush with the pistol grip to the bottom of the detente in the safety selector at 7/16" (+/- an RCH) on 3 of my lowers.I don't know why people keep saying this mod is not feasible for the safety selector because it is... Use a 8/32 Tap and get the corresponding set screws shortest u can find. Then either use a .125 ball bearing. What I use... Or u can cut down your existing detent... powertools most likely needed here. I then cut down the spring, install safety, bb, spring, set screw with blue loctite and the beauty of this is you can adjust the tension of the safety to your liking by moving the screw in or out. When I get home I can get pics if people want, but its pretty self explanatory... Hope Navyretired guy gets this... That loosely translates to .4375 inches. And the ball wouldn't necesarily fit to the bottom of the detente milling in the safety. The diameter of the 'ball bearing' would equal the diameter of the detent pin at it's widest = .141" .437" - .141" = .296" of empty hole length in the lower for the spring and machine screw. assuming you'd want to grind a 1/8: machine screw to 1/16" overall length ~ 0.063" 0.296" - 0.063" = 0.233" for spring length, and less when the ball rides out of the full depth boss milling in the safety. The standard spring length in a LPK for the safety spring in one of my Spike's kits is 0.931". Wild ass guess to avoid catastrophic spring binding - subtract another 0.020". That leaves you with a compressed spring length of 0.213" which is about 6 coils. QED: I'd rather call it a no-go, but it IS do-able. I make no claims about expert status, and I do NOT call into question your skill or judgement. I'm not nearly good enough a character to deserve that ability, nor have I earned that right.  And just for the hell of it, call all my numbers +/- 10%. I'm working with a dial mike, some blue tape and a couple of quadrajet metering rods (as depth 'gauges') here in a storage trailer on a job site. I just happen to have 3 bare lowers, and 3 LPKs in my kit with me. |
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Originally Posted By kaos:
Originally Posted By 1967Camaro:
I measure the depth of the detente hole in the lower from flush with the pistol grip to the bottom of the detente in the safety selector at 7/16" (+/- an RCH) on 3 of my lowers.
I don't know why people keep saying this mod is not feasible for the safety selector because it is... Use a 8/32 Tap and get the corresponding set screws shortest u can find. Then either use a .125 ball bearing. What I use... Or u can cut down your existing detent... powertools most likely needed here. I then cut down the spring, install safety, bb, spring, set screw with blue loctite and the beauty of this is you can adjust the tension of the safety to your liking by moving the screw in or out. When I get home I can get pics if people want, but its pretty self explanatory... Hope Navyretired guy gets this... That loosely translates to .4375 inches. And the ball wouldn't necesarily fit to the bottom of the detente milling in the safety. The diameter of the 'ball bearing' would equal the diameter of the detent pin at it's widest = .141" .437" - .141" = .296" of empty hole length in the lower for the spring and machine screw. assuming you'd want to grind a 1/8: machine screw to 1/16" overall length ~ 0.063" 0.296" - 0.063" = 0.233" for spring length, and less when the ball rides out of the full depth boss milling in the safety. The standard spring length in a LPK for the safety spring in one of my Spike's kits is 0.931". Wild ass guess to avoid catastrophic spring binding - subtract another 0.020". That leaves you with a compressed spring length of 0.213" which is about 6 coils. QED: I'd rather call it a no-go, but it IS do-able. I make no claims about expert status, and I do NOT call into question your skill or judgement. I'm not nearly good enough a character to deserve that ability, nor have I earned that right.
And just for the hell of it, call all my numbers +/- 10%. I'm working with a dial mike, some blue tape and a couple of quadrajet metering rods (as depth 'gauges') here in a storage trailer on a job site. I just happen to have 3 bare lowers, and 3 LPKs in my kit with me. Dude ... you got BRD bad ... THREE!!! stripped lowers w/LPK's on your job site? you got it bad.
I'm no expert either but in my thinking shortening a spring that much is going to shorten it's life span and compromise it's ability to provide proper tension on whatever it is pushing against. I'd like to see those pics though... 
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AWESOME!
One of my only gripes with the AR-15 platform are the little "Swiss watch" like parts, such as said rear take-down detent spring. Good thinking there. Maybe someone will start making lowers with that feature machined in. Originally Posted By Quarterbore:
Repost as the old one is in the archives... archive.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=285950 In a thread in the EE I saw a number of people asking for the rear plate that retains the rear take down detent spring retained when using an AR-15 pistol buffer. To be honest, I got tired of fighting with that stupid little spring with my own AR-15 pistol years ago and I thought other people knew the simple trick to tap the rear takedown detent hole and then use a small allen head screw to retain the spring. Well, in case nobody has seen this done I decided to do this to a brand new lower I bought this weekend and my local fun show... First, the rear takedown detent hole in case someone is asking WTF is he talking about? |
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REPLY to Powder_Burns 3/22/2010 post
yes someone has. i bought an 80% lower from UT ARMS and used an 'SI Defense Stainless Steel Bolt Catch Screw' as a replacement for the roll pin. http://shop.si-defense.com/v/vspfiles/photos/SI%20SS-BOLT-CTCH-SCRW-2T.jpg http://shop.si-defense.com/SI_Defense_Stainless_Steel_Bolt_Catch_Screw_p/si%20ss-bolt-ctch-scrw.htm you thread the REARMOST ONLY bolt catch 'LUG' 6-32. this is where it gets messy. there is very little room between the existing hole in the lug and the sidewall of the receiver. the hole has to be enlarged with a #36 drill (.1065 dia) ONLY THRU THE REARMOST LUG. if you can find a 6" #36 drill it will make it easier. aircraft supply vendors have them, though pricey. i used a regular length one chucked up in a 'pin vice'. i drilled it by hand and you must be patient. when viewed from the top the centerline of the hand drilled hole was slightly off axis, MAYBE 1 degree. this was due to the body of the pin vice hitting the sidewall of the receiver and not letting me get perfectly inline with the existing hole. this turned out to be a good thing, though (will explain later). then i chucked up a 6-32 starter tap in the pin vice and again, by hand, threaded the hole until the point of the tap just touched the hole of the FORWARD lug. i then chucked up (in the pin vice) a BOTTOMING or BLIND 6-32 tap (or grind the point off a starter tap until it is full thread dia at the tip) and ran it thru the hole to finish the threads completely thru the REARMOST lug. YOU MUST BE VERY PATIENT WHEN TAPPING LIKE THIS - WORK SLOWLY AND KEEP THE TAP STRAIGHT AND SQUARE (when viewed from the side), AND CLEAN THE TAP AFTER EVERY QUARTER TURN. now for the 'good thing' explanation. the very slight 'misalignment' (when viewed from the top) put a slight 'bind' on the 'smooth' pin as it enters the FORWARD lug as you screw it in place, just enough to kinda lock it in place. again, this misalignment was VERY SMALL. hope this helps. |
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Originally Posted By wildman3006: I picked up an S-I stripped upper/lower when they were having the deal-that-turned-bad-before-it-turned-good fiasco last winter.REPLY to Powder_Burns 3/22/2010 post yes someone has. i bought an 80% lower from UT ARMS and used an 'SI Defense Stainless Steel Bolt Catch Screw' as a replacement for the roll pin. http://shop.si-defense.com/v/vspfiles/photos/SI%20SS-BOLT-CTCH-SCRW-2T.jpg http://shop.si-defense.com/SI_Defense_Stainless_Steel_Bolt_Catch_Screw_p/si%20ss-bolt-ctch-scrw.htm you thread the REARMOST ONLY bolt catch 'LUG' 6-32. this is where it gets messy. there is very little room between the existing hole in the lug and the sidewall of the receiver. the hole has to be enlarged with a #36 drill (.1065 dia) ONLY THRU THE REARMOST LUG. if you can find a 6" #36 drill it will make it easier. aircraft supply vendors have them, though pricey. i used a regular length one chucked up in a 'pin vice'. i drilled it by hand and you must be patient. when viewed from the top the centerline of the hand drilled hole was slightly off axis, MAYBE 1 degree. this was due to the body of the pin vice hitting the sidewall of the receiver and not letting me get perfectly inline with the existing hole. this turned out to be a good thing, though (will explain later). then i chucked up a 6-32 starter tap in the pin vice and again, by hand, threaded the hole until the point of the tap just touched the hole of the FORWARD lug. i then chucked up (in the pin vice) a BOTTOMING or BLIND 6-32 tap (or grind the point off a starter tap until it is full thread dia at the tip) and ran it thru the hole to finish the threads completely thru the REARMOST lug. YOU MUST BE VERY PATIENT WHEN TAPPING LIKE THIS - WORK SLOWLY AND KEEP THE TAP STRAIGHT AND SQUARE (when viewed from the side), AND CLEAN THE TAP AFTER EVERY QUARTER TURN. now for the 'good thing' explanation. the very slight 'misalignment' (when viewed from the top) put a slight 'bind' on the 'smooth' pin as it enters the FORWARD lug as you screw it in place, just enough to kinda lock it in place. again, this misalignment was VERY SMALL. hope this helps. Now I'm obligated to do this, too.  I need a hobby.......  Thanks for the hint.  |
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Originally Posted By Nefarious7907:
I find it comical that my Spikes and Aero lowers are already threaded but my Noveske and Rainier lowers are not...so much for premium lowers
I have a an Aero Precision lower receiver with the threaded hole. What size allen head plug fits in the hole? 
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Results, not excuses.
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Originally Posted By kve818:
For those looking for 4-40 set screws or taps, they are easily found at any hobby store. Those are common on rc vehicles. Thanks for the tip. After scouring every hardware store in town I finally found some at my local Hobby Town. 
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Originally Posted By TempExp:
Finally got around to doing this. If anyone can't find the set screws, let me know. Got mine from http://www.mcmaster.com/# |
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Originally Posted By bushflyr:
Originally Posted By HoseKing:
Great idea. I might try that on the selector spring. I think you'd wind up with something like 1 coil on the spring since most of the safety detent spring is housed in the grip. This is such a great idea. I do it to all my lowers. Why the hell does QB keep having to repost it when it migrates to the archives? THIS OUGHT TO BE A STICKY I think the hole is larger on the selector. Not much room for detent ,spring & allen screw ! 
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Originally Posted By 1967Camaro:
I don't know why people keep saying this mod is not feasible for the safety selector because it is... Use a 8/32 Tap and get the corresponding set screws shortest u can find. Then either use a .125 ball bearing. What I use... Or u can cut down your existing detent... powertools most likely needed here. I then cut down the spring, install safety, bb, spring, set screw with blue loctite and the beauty of this is you can adjust the tension of the safety to your liking by moving the screw in or out. When I get home I can get pics if people want, but its pretty self explanatory... Hope Navyretired guy gets this... AMEN ! This will work !!! |
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Why didn't Eugene Stoner think of this? Seems like the mod to the safety detent spring the same way and not having to have it retained by the pistol grip would be especially nice for the poor schlobs in CA who can't have pistol grips on some configurations of their "ARs" (if you can call what they have to put up with out there an AR with a straight face).
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FYI Tactical Innovations lowers come drilled and tapped with the screw. They are also VERY nice lowers that color match perfectly to BCM uppers.
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Simple fix for the rear takedown detent spring blues.... (Page 3 of 6)
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