AR Sponsor
Posted: 1/24/2011 3:13:23 PM EDT
| Ok I have a tendency to over think things and maybe I am doing it on my first build. I have collected all the various parts and am down to buying the barrel. Now I am worrying about the M4 cuts lining up and the headspace between one manufactures bolt and another barrel. I know that Ideally you have a bolt matched to the barrel but I don't see many barrels being sold that way? How big are these worries? I guess the real question is how much benefit if any between a complete set barrel, bolt, upper from one manufacture vs different ones? |
|
You are overthinking.
As long as you buy a good milspec forged upper, a reputable barrel, and a milspec Bolt... youll be fine. Best way to stop problems before they happen is to buy from reputable manufacturers, that way if something IS wrong, they will make it right. If you want to you can buy a headspace gauge, fairly cheap in the long run and its something you should have anyways. Don't worry about it too much... how is the rest of your part list looking? what manufacturer were you looking at for the barrel? |
|
Looking at a DD 16" Mid CHF Barrel with pined gas block
Have: CMMG Upper and Lower RRA BCG DD Lite 10.0 Rail RRA LPK (Trigger sent to Bill Springfield for 4lb and Speed Hammer) ACC Blackout Badger Tactical Charging Handel FI Ergo Grip ACE SOCOM Stock Have to Pick Up: Troy DOA BUIS Barrel Above DD Vertical Foergrip Gas Tube DD Wrench to install handrail Also wondering about Tools. I have a pretty extensive Garage but never done Gun work before. Don't want to spend a fortune on tools I may never use again. But don't want to need something I don't have when I star either. What Headspace gauge would you recommend? |
|
Quoted:
Looking at a DD 16" Mid CHF Barrel with pined gas block Have: CMMG Upper and Lower RRA BCG - I might change this out to something like a DD/LMT/BCM/Spikes but thats just personal preference. Im sure it'll work fine for you. DD Lite 10.0 Rail - remember that there is a special wrench needed to put this on, don't know if it comes with. ETA... whoops i see you got that covered. RRA LPK (Trigger sent to Bill Springfield for 4lb and Speed Hammer) - keep an eye on that around the 1k round mark... been some reports of problems. ACC Blackout Badger Tactical Charging Handel FI Ergo Grip ACE SOCOM Stock Have to Pick Up: Troy DOA BUIS - have this, love it. Barrel Above DD Vertical Foergrip - i use larue handstops... more ergonomic and much cheaper. Gas Tube DD Wrench to install handrail Also wondering about Tools. I have a pretty extensive Garage but never done Gun work before. Don't want to spend a fortune on tools I may never use again. But don't want to need something I don't have when I star either. What Headspace gauge would you recommend? Torque wrench, Armorers wrench (i use the DPMS one, never had a problem... but its not the "best"... ideally you would have 3 different wrenches... i don't think anyone makes a "perfect" all in one.) Although i don't even know if you need an armorers wrench or a stock wrench... i don't know how that ACE stock attaches. If you do need a stock wrench you can get by with a Tapco one.. doesn't need to be fancy.. remember to stake your castle nut. You need an upper receiver vise block.. buy one or borrow one... ask around in your hometown forum... someone should be happy to help in your area with that. Remember to use moly grease on the threads of your upper receiver, this is important. Headspace info Links to headspace info and products. Last thing i see is ... you don't NEED a CHF barrel, and you'll never notice a difference by getting one of the standard cut DD ones. Honestly. Unless you are firing full auto or doing mag dumps all day you don't need CHF... unless you are getting a great deal on it... then why not. |
|
Quoted:
Looking at a DD 16" Mid CHF Barrel with pined gas block Have: CMMG Upper and Lower RRA BCG DD Lite 10.0 Rail RRA LPK (Trigger sent to Bill Springfield for 4lb and Speed Hammer) ACC Blackout Badger Tactical Charging Handel FI Ergo Grip ACE SOCOM Stock Have to Pick Up: Troy DOA BUIS Barrel Above DD Vertical Foergrip Gas Tube DD Wrench to install handrail Also wondering about Tools. I have a pretty extensive Garage but never done Gun work before. Don't want to spend a fortune on tools I may never use again. But don't want to need something I don't have when I star either. What Headspace gauge would you recommend? Well, I would recommend you picking up some roll pin punches such as These if you do not already have some. While they are not absolutely necessary, they do make life easier and lessen the chance of slipping with a regular punch. You will also need a small hammer, I like one such as This , but you can use any small hammer that you already have. You will also need an Armorer's wrench, and an action block at least for the upper receiver. A lot of guys don't use a action block for the lower when installing buffer tube and tightening things down, but I personally use one. You probably have everything else you will need. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Looking at a DD 16" Mid CHF Barrel with pined gas block Have: CMMG Upper and Lower RRA BCG - I might change this out to something like a DD/LMT/BCM/Spikes but thats just personal preference. Im sure it'll work fine for you. DD Lite 10.0 Rail - remember that there is a special wrench needed to put this on, don't know if it comes with. ETA... whoops i see you got that covered. RRA LPK (Trigger sent to Bill Springfield for 4lb and Speed Hammer) - keep an eye on that around the 1k round mark... been some reports of problems. ACC Blackout Badger Tactical Charging Handel FI Ergo Grip ACE SOCOM Stock Have to Pick Up: Troy DOA BUIS - have this, love it. Barrel Above DD Vertical Foergrip - i use larue handstops... more ergonomic and much cheaper. Gas Tube DD Wrench to install handrail Also wondering about Tools. I have a pretty extensive Garage but never done Gun work before. Don't want to spend a fortune on tools I may never use again. But don't want to need something I don't have when I star either. What Headspace gauge would you recommend? Torque wrench, Armorers wrench (i use the DPMS one, never had a problem... but its not the "best"... ideally you would have 3 different wrenches... i don't think anyone makes a "perfect" all in one.) Although i don't even know if you need an armorers wrench or a stock wrench... i don't know how that ACE stock attaches. If you do need a stock wrench you can get by with a Tapco one.. doesn't need to be fancy.. remember to stake your castle nut. You need an upper receiver vise block.. buy one or borrow one... ask around in your hometown forum... someone should be happy to help in your area with that. Remember to use moly grease on the threads of your upper receiver, this is important. Headspace info Links to headspace info and products. Last thing i see is ... you don't NEED a CHF barrel, and you'll never notice a difference by getting one of the standard cut DD ones. Honestly. Unless you are firing full auto or doing mag dumps all day you don't need CHF... unless you are getting a great deal on it... then why not. I actually thought about going to the BCM BCG. The only problem with the standard cut DD is they don't appear to have Mids unless I missed something? Link? |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I actually thought about going to the BCM BCG. The only problem with the standard cut DD is they don't appear to have Mids unless I missed something? Link? Huh, I thought they did carry those in the middy... can't seem to find them on their site... guess you are right and they dont... what about a Rainer Arms Select not sure how you feel about the stainless... but I hear good things about these. |
|
bravo has 16" middies in stock
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-16-Mid-Length-Barrel-Stripped-p/bcm-brl-s-mid-16%20std.htm |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Looking at a DD 16" Mid CHF Barrel with pined gas block Have: CMMG Upper and Lower RRA BCG - I might change this out to something like a DD/LMT/BCM/Spikes but thats just personal preference. Im sure it'll work fine for you. DD Lite 10.0 Rail - remember that there is a special wrench needed to put this on, don't know if it comes with. ETA... whoops i see you got that covered. RRA LPK (Trigger sent to Bill Springfield for 4lb and Speed Hammer) - keep an eye on that around the 1k round mark... been some reports of problems. ACC Blackout Badger Tactical Charging Handel FI Ergo Grip ACE SOCOM Stock Have to Pick Up: Troy DOA BUIS - have this, love it. Barrel Above DD Vertical Foergrip - i use larue handstops... more ergonomic and much cheaper. Gas Tube DD Wrench to install handrail Also wondering about Tools. I have a pretty extensive Garage but never done Gun work before. Don't want to spend a fortune on tools I may never use again. But don't want to need something I don't have when I star either. What Headspace gauge would you recommend? Torque wrench, Armorers wrench (i use the DPMS one, never had a problem... but its not the "best"... ideally you would have 3 different wrenches... i don't think anyone makes a "perfect" all in one.) Although i don't even know if you need an armorers wrench or a stock wrench... i don't know how that ACE stock attaches. If you do need a stock wrench you can get by with a Tapco one.. doesn't need to be fancy.. remember to stake your castle nut. You need an upper receiver vise block.. buy one or borrow one... ask around in your hometown forum... someone should be happy to help in your area with that. Remember to use moly grease on the threads of your upper receiver, this is important. Headspace info Links to headspace info and products. Last thing i see is ... you don't NEED a CHF barrel, and you'll never notice a difference by getting one of the standard cut DD ones. Honestly. Unless you are firing full auto or doing mag dumps all day you don't need CHF... unless you are getting a great deal on it... then why not. Just curious, why is Moly Grease important on the threads for the barrel nut? Will any kind of moly grease work that i could buy at the local hardware store? |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just curious, why is Moly Grease important on the threads for the barrel nut? Will any kind of moly grease work that i could buy at the local hardware store? The barrel nut is steel, the upper receiver is aluminum... when the barrel heats up from firing... the 2 different metals will fuse together over time... this is called "galling" the moly grease prevents this. It also gives you the right torque value since it is easier to torque with the grease on than without. Galling won't happen overnight, but when you start getting into higher count counts.. itll happen eventually. Any moly grease will work... the higher % of moly the better... if it doesn't give a percentage and you can't find the word moly on it.. wheel bearing grease is the same stuff... according to the FAQ. doesn't need much. I usually also wipe the extension with some before mating... then wipe most of it right back off with a paper towel... just a light greasing there.. |
|
Well here my thinking. I can get the non CHF BCM for $229. Or I can get the CHF DD WITH a pinned LP Gas Block for $335. So a GB will run $30-50 plus what about $40 to pin it? So Add that to the $229 and I get CHF for $10-20.
Although now that I am looking I dont think the DD CHF Chrome Lined. Well Crap lol. Now the Decision is basically for the same money once you add a gas block and pined, Chrome lined or CHF? |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just curious, why is Moly Grease important on the threads for the barrel nut? Will any kind of moly grease work that i could buy at the local hardware store? The barrel nut is steel, the upper receiver is aluminum... when the barrel heats up from firing... the 2 different metals will fuse together over time... this is called "galling" the moly grease prevents this. It also gives you the right torque value since it is easier to torque with the grease on than without. Galling won't happen overnight, but when you start getting into higher count counts.. itll happen eventually. Any moly grease will work... the higher % of moly the better... if it doesn't give a percentage and you can't find the word moly on it.. wheel bearing grease is the same stuff... according to the FAQ. doesn't need much. I usually also wipe the extension with some before mating... then wipe most of it right back off with a paper towel... just a light greasing there.. Thanx for the answer, makes sense. Will any kind of Moly Grease work? the kind u get at Autozone good to go? |
|
Quoted:
Well here my thinking. I can get the non CHF BCM for $229. Or I can get the CHF DD WITH a pinned LP Gas Block for $335. So a GB will run $30-50 plus what about $40 to pin it? So Add that to the $229 and I get CHF for $10-20. Or am I off? eh... i would get the BCM barrel for $229 and a YHM LP gas block for $22 and call it a day. It attaches with set screws... or i think they have a version that is a clamp on which is stronger. With red locktite set screws don't usually come out.. and since a LP gas block is protected by the rail around it... you should never have a problem with it... if it makes you feel better you can make some indexing marks and check it once and while to make sure the screws aren't backing off.. Set screw LP blocks have always worked fine for me... some people feel you need to have them pinned... i don't. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just curious, why is Moly Grease important on the threads for the barrel nut? Will any kind of moly grease work that i could buy at the local hardware store? The barrel nut is steel, the upper receiver is aluminum... when the barrel heats up from firing... the 2 different metals will fuse together over time... this is called "galling" the moly grease prevents this. It also gives you the right torque value since it is easier to torque with the grease on than without. Galling won't happen overnight, but when you start getting into higher count counts.. itll happen eventually. Any moly grease will work... the higher % of moly the better... if it doesn't give a percentage and you can't find the word moly on it.. wheel bearing grease is the same stuff... according to the FAQ. doesn't need much. I usually also wipe the extension with some before mating... then wipe most of it right back off with a paper towel... just a light greasing there.. Thanx for the answer, makes sense. Will any kind of Moly Grease work? the kind u get at Autozone good to go? yep. I just bought a new tube because i lost my little can... 4 bucks for a tub that is the size of a peanut butter jar... itll last me 500 years. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just curious, why is Moly Grease important on the threads for the barrel nut? Will any kind of moly grease work that i could buy at the local hardware store? The barrel nut is steel, the upper receiver is aluminum... when the barrel heats up from firing... the 2 different metals will fuse together over time... this is called "galling" the moly grease prevents this. It also gives you the right torque value since it is easier to torque with the grease on than without. Galling won't happen overnight, but when you start getting into higher count counts.. itll happen eventually. Any moly grease will work... the higher % of moly the better... if it doesn't give a percentage and you can't find the word moly on it.. wheel bearing grease is the same stuff... according to the FAQ. doesn't need much. I usually also wipe the extension with some before mating... then wipe most of it right back off with a paper towel... just a light greasing there.. Thanx for the answer, makes sense. Will any kind of Moly Grease work? the kind u get at Autozone good to go? yep. I just bought a new tube because i lost my little can... 4 bucks for a tub that is the size of a peanut butter jar... itll last me 500 years. Sweet! |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Well here my thinking. I can get the non CHF BCM for $229. Or I can get the CHF DD WITH a pinned LP Gas Block for $335. So a GB will run $30-50 plus what about $40 to pin it? So Add that to the $229 and I get CHF for $10-20. Or am I off? eh... i would get the BCM barrel for $229 and a YHM LP gas block for $22 and call it a day. It attaches with set screws... or i think they have a version that is a clamp on which is stronger. With red locktite set screws don't usually come out.. and since a LP gas block is protected by the rail around it... you should never have a problem with it... if it makes you feel better you can make some indexing marks and check it once and while to make sure the screws aren't backing off.. Set screw LP blocks have always worked fine for me... some people feel you need to have them pinned... i don't. Do you Dimple the Barrel with the set screws? |
| If you buy a barrel and bolt from Rainier Arms they check it for proper head space and make note of it on the goods. This is a nice service. I would not trust any gas block that uses set screws. The kind I chose is the type that clamps on. This seems easy and better than set screws. A receiver block is great if you can borrow one. I used a padded vice though and it worked fine. I may never do another build, so I scrimped on tools. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Well here my thinking. I can get the non CHF BCM for $229. Or I can get the CHF DD WITH a pinned LP Gas Block for $335. So a GB will run $30-50 plus what about $40 to pin it? So Add that to the $229 and I get CHF for $10-20. Or am I off? eh... i would get the BCM barrel for $229 and a YHM LP gas block for $22 and call it a day. It attaches with set screws... or i think they have a version that is a clamp on which is stronger. With red locktite set screws don't usually come out.. and since a LP gas block is protected by the rail around it... you should never have a problem with it... if it makes you feel better you can make some indexing marks and check it once and while to make sure the screws aren't backing off.. Set screw LP blocks have always worked fine for me... some people feel you need to have them pinned... i don't. Do you Dimple the Barrel with the set screws? Yes. As the above me pointed out... they do have clamp style gas blocks... YHM sells one for $10 more than the set screw type... much stronger... worth the extra coin... even though ive never had a problem with set screw LPGBs |
AR Sponsor