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Posted: 1/31/2011 7:15:02 AM EDT
Finally going to zero my nf 2.5-10x24 with npr2 reticule on my noveske 16" barrelled recce rifle. Will probably use m193 for now what distance should I zero in at?
Link Posted: 1/31/2011 7:29:50 AM EDT
All my magnified optics get a 100 yard zero except for my TR24, but that is specific to the reticle.

Might want to try out some nice match ammo though. Black hills 68,69,75 or 77 will give you much better results that M193 which is only good for 3 moa best case.
Link Posted: 1/31/2011 8:54:23 AM EDT
I run a slightly different zero than Marksman.

I zero all Carbines at 50 yards, regardles of optic.

But as he said, use a little better ammo for your finnal zero set.
Link Posted: 2/1/2011 11:43:01 AM EDT
Here is a link to yet another great Molon post.
You can look at the various trajectory plots and decide what makes sense for you.

Molon trajectory thread

Think before you decide on a zero.
This is particularly true when zeroing your iron sights.

For example, many people zero their BUIS (having a fixed rear elevation) at 50 yds.
This is the so called "improved battle zero". This makes sense for a rear sight
having elevation adjustment, but is a stupid choice for a rear sight with fixed elevation.


Link Posted: 2/1/2011 1:25:32 PM EDT
I zero'ed my 1-4x at 50 yards. Works fine for my needs. FC2 reticle.
Link Posted: 2/1/2011 2:23:46 PM EDT
Originally Posted By eightring:
Here is a link to yet another great Molon post.
You can look at the various trajectory plots and decide what makes sense for you.

Molon trajectory thread

Think before you decide on a zero.
This is particularly true when zeroing your iron sights.

For example, many people zero their BUIS (having a fixed rear elevation) at 50 yds.
This is the so called "improved battle zero". This makes sense for a rear sight
having elevation adjustment, but is a stupid choice for a rear sight with fixed elevation.





I couldn't disagree with your theory more. For me the entire
theory behind the 50-200 "improved battle zero" works perfectly,
is that its makes shooting an instinct when shooting inside 250
yards. Anything inside 250 yards and you can just hold your
sights or crosshairs "dead on" and be close enough for a battle
zero. If you are zero'd at 50 yards you will not be more than
2" inches high or low for the entire 250 yards. That is what
I call "good enough". If its outside of 250 yards then it will
require some though or hold over, but 90% of my shooting is
done inside that 250 yard range.

It works for me, and i don't consider myself "stupid."
Link Posted: 2/1/2011 5:37:56 PM EDT
I'm gonna stay out the above comments and try another approach/explantion. I read Molon's thread and it's accurate, but not really applicable to you with your setup. You have an expensive, accurate, tool––use it. Don't feel that you have to settle on one zero. I have a NF too with the NP-R1. Zero it at whatever distance you want and know your come ups. Use it. Trust it. It will not let you down. Neither of mine do (I have another one that's 15 years old). So zero it at 100 yds, and when you shoot 200 yds, add the proper elevation, use a center hold and bang––center hit! Crank it back down and shoot at 100 again––or go out to 300 or 500. Yes, I practice holding over too, to make sure I'm used to counting the hash marks to the MOA of hold over I need. Don't do what I did by spending the kind of money you did and then never move the elevation or windage knobs. I made that mistake with my first NF for TOO MANY YEARS, and it was a mistake. You'll be much happier when you let your scope do all its made to do. I am.

I would suggest that with a setup like you have that it does deserve better ammo than 55gn ball. However, I notice you did say "for now" so maybe you do want to upgrade later. When you do great, but it's cool, shoot what you can now, get used to the come ups and when you get better ammo, you'll really like that scope!
Link Posted: 2/1/2011 6:08:45 PM EDT
Yea I really need to learn more about holdover and such. I'm a bit newer to this kinda thing but really look forward to getting into it
Link Posted: 2/2/2011 6:12:04 AM EDT
I zero my 2.5-10 at 200 yards which also gives me about a 50 yard short range zero. I then have my dope sheet for outside of 200 yards.
Link Posted: 2/2/2011 6:45:20 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:

...
I call "good enough". If its outside of 250 yards then it will
require some though or hold over
, but 90% of my shooting is
done inside that 250 yard range.

It works for me, and i don't consider myself "stupid."


I never intended to say that any person was stupid.
IMO, IBZ with fixed rear BUIS is stupid.

You are exactly correct, to engage a target at 225 yards or farther with IBZ,
you have to do something. If you have an A1 rear sight, you can adjust
elevation. If you have a scope, you can hold over.

If you have fixed elevation rear buis, you are SOL.
For example, it would be difficult to ring a 14" steel gong
at 300 yards using irons and a 14 inch "hold over".
The target is entirely obscured by the front sight post, there is no way to aim
(vertically, or horizontally).

For some targets which are not tall (e.g. head peeking out), there is no such thing
as "holding over" with iron sights. IMO, 300yd zero makes better sense for irons
that do not have elevation adjustment.





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