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Posted: 12/24/2008 5:58:57 AM EDT
| Is this bench grinder territory? How hard is it to do properly? |
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A file, dremel, sand paper, and a blunt object like a flathead screwdriver will do the
trick, but as VAAR stated, getting it smooth is the hard part. That shiney aluminum does not let you notice flaws too well so I spray a little black paint on when I am almost there and start smoothing out more. A mill is the best choice though. |
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True, probably a better idea. Don't give up yet. I say hats-off to anyone who would still prefer to attempt to make/modify their own, rather than just buying something off the shelf, like anybody could do. For us DIY'ers, it's not just owning the end product, but the effort it takes to actually build something. Even though it might not always come out 'perfect', you'll have that personal satisfaction. It's helpful if you're aware of your limitations .... but then you might not know if you don't try. 
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It's helpful if you're aware of your limitations ... You're only limited by your imagination...Like VAAR, I do my partial fences on a [cheap Chinese] mill...using a 3/8" radius corner-rounding end mill and a .090" corner radius end mill...Here's how the work-in-progress and the finished lower looks... 
There's been much discussion as to where/how long the partial fence should be...I do both...Depends on how much time I want to spend... 
This is not to say that you can't get excellent results with hand tools...I just don't like all that work...
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I cut what I could with a dremel cutting tool (pic 1) then ground with a grinding fixture (pic 2) then a combination of hand filing and 320 to 600 grit emery paper. Every so often I hit it with some spray paint to see how it looked, sanded again and did a few light applications of JB Weld to fill in the low spots. The last pic is some Snow Gray durabake I had left over. I basically did the same thing on the Roll mark (it's an Anvil Arms lower) 
and the Fire/Safe marks on the right hand side. I've given it an overall 600 scuffing and I'm now waiting on some Colt Gray duracoat to be delivered so I can finish it up. |
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Step away from the lower Sir, or I'll be forced to tazer you...........................  Well, if y'all had brought out you stuff a year earlier, I would not had to hand cut my own out of A2 profile pieses (A1 out of Rock River, and Early '16 out of a DPMS piece.)
Sadly, I just had to do another A1 profile piece out of a Rock River lower; because money is very tight and I already had the lower sitting on the shelf.-Believe me, I hate the work, since I have to do the thing totally by hand solely w/hand files and abrasive paper. (Don't have any machine tools.  )
I certainly hope that if I ever decide to do another retro, I'll be ablr to afford your product.
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Sadly, I just had to do another A1 profile piece out of a Rock River lower; because money is very tight and I already had the lower sitting on the shelf.-Believe me, I hate the work, since I have to do the thing totally by hand solely w/hand files and abrasive paper. (Don't have any machine tools. Perhaps one of the members with the tooling could do some of the work on the lower, in exchange for whatever parts that member might need... 
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I cut what I could with a dremel cutting tool (pic 1) then ground with a grinding fixture (pic 2) then a combination of hand filing and 320 to 600 grit emery paper. Every so often I hit it with some spray paint to see how it looked, sanded again and did a few light applications of JB Weld to fill in the low spots. The last pic is some Snow Gray durabake I had left over. I basically did the same thing on the Roll mark (it's an Anvil Arms lower) http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/3171942811_07e2ce42bb_o.jpg and the Fire/Safe marks on the right hand side. I've given it an overall 600 scuffing and I'm now waiting on some Colt Gray duracoat to be delivered so I can finish it up. You're not done yet though, you still need to contour the radius under the mag release button and remove the re-enforcements under the front takedown pin and buffer lug. 
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I did quite a few of these (A2 to XM16) conversions to lower receivers a few years ago.... unless you are very experienced with working with aluminum i don't recommend doing it as there is not much room for error when you do one unless you can TIG weld. 
Yeah, right, uxb. Those two lowers you did a couple of years ago were my inspiration... |
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