Im going to be puting together a gun smithing kit for a AR15 in the hopes one day I will be a gun smith. This is what i thought of so far.
Uper reciver action block. :Hold uper reciver
Torque wrench.: Goes on barrel wrench to put the right amount of torque in.
Barrel Wrench.: for barrel nut.
stock wrench.: For non standard stocks (collapsible).
Flat head screw driver.: Standard stocks.
Roll pin punchs.: For puting pins in.
Rear sight tool.: Rear sight.
Flash hider tool <------------ I dont know info on this please?
lower reciver action block.: Hold lower reciver in place while i work on it
Hex key set.: Installing some pistal grips.
Barrel Vise.: Hold barrel in place to remove a flash hider or something along those lines
Snap ring plyers.: Snap rings where delta ring is.
Hammer.: <----- What kind of hammer will be needed to drive punchs.?
Vise grip plyers.: Makes it easy to put in some pins (trigger guard, mag catch ect...)
eletric tape.: So i dont scratch the blueing or what ever it is called.
Field Gauge: I know what they are all for.
Umm... Little help on where to get these tools most likely harborfreight some thing of that sort. I like the ADCO uper reciver actionblock.
Any other tips or things to add to list as well would help.
Id skip the lower reciever action block. Use an open end wrench to take off/put on the flash hider. You might get a good set of gunsmithing screw drivers. All screw drivers are not created equal.
If you get an upper reciever block like the DPMS claw or the one from Brownells you will not need the barrel vise as the action block will allow you to change barrels, flash hiders, etc.
Brownells sells a complete line of tools for the AR's. Some are a little high priced compared to other companies. But looking through their tools might give you a good idea of what to look for when shopping for prices and products.
I will need the barrel vise incase there isnt a action on the barrel. I was gonna say gunsmithing screw drivers but then just wrote screw driver.
Bushmaster also has almost all of those tools in stock and more. Since you are going all out, I think you forgot the handguard removal tool. Make sure you have a little bit of Molly grease around as well.
I'd recommend against buying a complete armorer's kit anywhere, as you'll get a lot of unnecessary stuff with it, and pay a lot to boot. Some of what I bought isn't critical, but I felt a need to get it.
Bushmaster handguard removal tool -- #HGD-Tool -- $19.95
Bushmaster receiver push pin tool -- #IMP-1 -- $6.95
Bushmaster action clamp -- #OM-003 -- $38.95
Bushmaster firing pin protrusion gauge -- #MMT-0005 -- $14.95
Brownells Bench Block (round, grooved) -- #498-100-100 -- $12.50
Brownells AR-15 Front Sight Bench Block -- #080-000-252 -- $34.97
Brownells needle oilers (quantity 3) -- #084-038-203 --$6.67
Kroil (8-ounce can) -- #471-100-008 -- $8.90
Gas tube wrench-- #133-100-015 -- $24.95
"Field Gauge" -- #319-418-033 -- $14.94
Dasco 4 1/2" X 1/16" pin punch -- #6476659 -- $3.69
Dasco 5 1/2" X 3/32" pin punch -- #6472732 -- $3.89
Proto 4 1/4" X 3/32" Tip Super-Duty Roll Pin Punch -- #J49332 -- $4.96
Proto 4 1/4" X 1/8" Tip Super-Duty Roll Pin Punch -- #J49018 -- $5.43
Stanley 3/32" Square Nail Set -- #58-113 -- $2.55
Stanley 5 oz. Magnetic Tack Hammer -- #54-304 -- $11.03
Olympic Arms armorer's wrench -- #H28B -- $27
Pittsburgh Tools 1/2" Torque Wrench-- #239-3VGA -- $9.99
I also bought a set of snap ring pliers, a small set of needlenose pliers, a 16-ounce ballpeen hammer, a vise, moly lube, and painter's tape. I think I've remembered everything.
I recommend that you just START DOING IT.
You will soon learn what you need each time you come to a problem you can't solve with what you have now.
I currently have about 5-6 different kinds of barrel/handguard wrenches and 3-4 receiver blocks.
Each has some special use that others don't cure.
I'm sure that the guys that do as much AR work as I do have all accumulated similar collections of tools.
M4 Madness gave a pretty good list, but I would also add the cup-point punch that brownells sells for removing taper pins from front sight bases.
I have used, tried and made many others, but I have not found one as good as this right from the start.
It is now my go-to punch for bushmaster taper pins.
You will quickly find out that BM pins are in there tighter than everyone elses...
I use a Stanley 3/32" nail set. In armorer's class we were told to get one of those INSTEAD of the taper pin punch from Brownells. The instructor said that the Stanley is hardened AFTER the concave end is cut. The Brownells is supposedly hardened BEFORE, and the hardness is removed when it is dished out. Not to mention that at around $2, the Stanley nailset is a heck of a lot cheaper.
The Brownells punch is made from a Starrett punch.
I think we all know that Starrett makes the good stuff.
From looking at my brownells punch, yes, it WAS ground after hardening.
I think starrett through-hardened at the tip, because it is very tough and certainly very hard still.
I'll probably still pickup one of those stanley nailsets the next time I make an MSC order though.
You can never have too many good backups!