Flash suppressor > Build It Yourself

Posted: 2/7/2006 4:31:33 PM EDT

Just curious can I remove and retorque my flash suppressor with a rubber strap wrench and crowfoot on a torque wrench? I dont have a barrel vice or receiver block...

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,

Jonathan

Posted: 2/7/2006 4:34:39 PM EDT

[#1]

You can use anything. When I installed my vortex I literally used a butterknife. I was too lazy to walk through the rain to the shop.

For an A2 I would use an adjustable wrench. Crank it tight and twist. Hold on tight to the front sight base.

Posted: 2/7/2006 5:01:39 PM EDT

[#2]

Quoted:
You can use anything. When I installed my vortex I literally used a butterknife. I was too lazy to walk through the rain to the shop.

For an A2 I would use an adjustable wrench. Crank it tight and twist. Hold on tight to the front sight base.

Do you think I will cant my FSB in using that as a grip?

Posted: 2/7/2006 5:05:48 PM EDT

[#3]

sometimes its on tight.

if it doesnt require torquing then its no problem but with ones that require timing might be more of a problem.

Posted: 2/7/2006 5:06:27 PM EDT

[#4]

Quoted:
Quoted:
You can use anything. When I installed my vortex I literally used a butterknife. I was too lazy to walk through the rain to the shop.

For an A2 I would use an adjustable wrench. Crank it tight and twist. Hold on tight to the front sight base.

Do you think I will cant my FSB in using that as a grip?

It will be fine. You're not going to break your pins.

Posted: 2/7/2006 5:10:18 PM EDT

[#5]

Take a scrap chunk of wood about 4" x 4" x 10" or so, a piece of oak is best say a scrap from a pallet, and bore a 3/4" hole in the middle of one of the 4" sides all the way through. Drill it in the middle of the 10" length. Then using some kind of saw (I use a table say, but a jig saw, hand saw or band saw would work fine as long as you remove a 1/4" thick slice of material) cut the board along its long lenth so that the cut falls smack on the middle of the diameter of the hole. It need not be a nice cut at all. Cut the whole 10" lenght so that you end up with two 10" x 1 7/8" wide (you removed 1/4" of material, remember) with a little less than half of 3/4" hole in the middle. Put each half around your barrel and you can then put the wood and the barrel in a vice, or in a pinch use big C-clamps.

You've just made a (nearly) FREE barrell vice that won't mar your barrel!

efxguy

Posted: 2/7/2006 5:56:05 PM EDT

[#6]

Quoted:
Take a scrap chunk of wood about 4" x 4" x 10" or so, a piece of oak is best say a scrap from a pallet, and bore a 3/4" hole in the middle of one of the 4" sides all the way through. Drill it in the middle of the 10" length. Then using some kind of saw (I use a table say, but a jig saw, hand saw or band saw would work fine as long as you remove a 1/4" thick slice of material) cut the board along its long lenth so that the cut falls smack on the middle of the diameter of the hole. It need not be a nice cut at all. Cut the whole 10" lenght so that you end up with two 10" x 1 7/8" wide (you removed 1/4" of material, remember) with a little less than half of 3/4" hole in the middle. Put each half around your barrel and you can then put the wood and the barrel in a vice, or in a pinch use big C-clamps.

You've just made a (nearly) FREE barrell vice that won't mar your barrel!

efxguy

Excellent

Quoted:
sometimes its on tight.

if it doesnt require torquing then its no problem but with ones that require timing might be more of a problem.

Damn, I am f'ed... I have a Phantom 5C2 :-/

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