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11/20/2019 5:07:11 PM
Posted: 5/12/2005 3:26:22 PM EST
What do you guys use to install a flash hider / comp with a crush washer.

Barrel vice jaws?

Front sight tower in a vice?

Other method?

If you just trap the front sight tower in a vice, what do you use to pad it?

Torque wrench?

Multi-tool wrench?



Just curious to see if we have a consensus or most common method here.
Link Posted: 5/12/2005 3:42:57 PM EST
Barrel vise jaws, GI armorer's tool, and a breaker bar... no torque wrench needed.
Link Posted: 5/12/2005 8:20:26 PM EST
Just did the job myself. However, I used a peel washer. Tools I used were:

upper reveiver action block by Bushmaster
DPMS multitool
Propane Torch to heat peel washer

The job went pretty smooth. I secured the upper receiver action block in a vise to keep the barrel stable. Using a torch to heat the peel washer was overkill -- probably could have used a lighter. It took a little time to get the right combination of washers and I hand torqued it as tight as I could with the multitool. I'll find out soon if I torqued it on tight enough after a few trips to the range.
Link Posted: 5/13/2005 4:25:01 AM EST
Just an antidotal tale. I had a barrel that wouldn't shoot for crap. I had it cut down and assembled it my self using peel washer for the flash suppressor. I took it apart for some reason and when I put it back together I used a lot less torque to get the suppressor to index I recall. After that the barrel shot much better. Group size was cut in half.

I don't know if there is (I'm sure there is) a torque setting for the suppressor but I'ld stay to the light end.

Link Posted: 5/13/2005 8:49:06 AM EST
Jeez, I've always just held the reciever ,with an empty mag in it, between my knees and tightened the fh with a multi-tool. I don't tighten it very tight either.
Link Posted: 5/13/2005 5:40:14 PM EST
Do not use an action block for removing and installing flash hiders and comps. This is for the same reason that you should not use barrel vise jaws to install barrels on upper receivers.

Doing so puts all the twisting force on the indexing pin in the slot on front of the receiver. The steel pin will easily dent into the softer aluminum, canting the front sight base.

Use barrel vise jaws only for removal and installation of flash hiders, compensators, and muzzle brakes.
Link Posted: 5/13/2005 10:31:33 PM EST
Strong friend, or between knees, and if a phantom or birdcage a 3/4 combination wrench. Eyeball the alingment with the front sight tip, and you should be good.
Link Posted: 5/13/2005 11:27:34 PM EST

Originally Posted By Halfcocked:
Just an antidotal tale. I had a barrel that wouldn't shoot for crap. I had it cut down and assembled it my self using peel washer for the flash suppressor. I took it apart for some reason and when I put it back together I used a lot less torque to get the suppressor to index I recall. After that the barrel shot much better. Group size was cut in half.

I don't know if there is (I'm sure there is) a torque setting for the suppressor but I'ld stay to the light end.




Yep. Peel washer and moderate torque yields best accuracy.
Link Posted: 5/24/2005 6:50:13 PM EST
For flash hiders I use barrel vise jaws in a 6" vise, DPMS Armorers tool and a breaker bar but it's not needed 90% of the time. I prefer crush type washers to peel type. The receiver action blocks are the only way to go for barrel swap/install. I would not use it for flash hiders.
Link Posted: 5/24/2005 7:12:46 PM EST
crescent wrench and stick the fsb between my knees
Link Posted: 5/25/2005 2:46:30 AM EST
I just chuck a cheap steel 30-rounder in my bench mounted vice, slap my AR on & go to town. I use crush washers & a large crescent-wrench.
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