User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 1/27/2006 9:47:18 PM EDT
[#1]
Howabout tying the front end of the snake to a metal tool (such as a wrench). Then twist the wrench until the snake is much less stretchy and tight. Then pull from the bore end...???
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 4:54:50 AM EDT
[#2]
you could try reversing the direction of pull. Provided you can grab the other end.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 10:58:43 AM EDT
[#3]
Nah, I can't get to it, as the patch is right at the end of the throat. I think some needle nose pliers might work to get it out...
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 3:02:22 PM EDT
[#4]
Double tap...sorry!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 3:02:53 PM EDT
[#5]
If ya can't get it from the throat try clamping the end at the muzzle in a bench vise then pull the gun towards you. Should come right out. Good luck....
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 5:48:11 PM EDT
[#6]
A coathanger will fit from the muzzle end. Be very careful.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 6:10:51 PM EDT
[#7]
I would be patient and thoughtfull in how you attack this so you don't ruin your barrel. I definately wouldn't put needle nose pliers or other hardend steel tools in your chamber. I wonder if a 4" long wood screw would work? Work it straight into the chamber and see if you can get the screw to thread into the patch, and then use the needle nose pliers to pull it out. The screw should be softer than your chamber wall, but be as gentle as you can anyway. Let us know how you finally get it out. Good luck!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 6:36:43 PM EDT
[#8]
Great idea Dilbert. Will keep you all posted.
Suddenly, I feel like a surgeon. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/4/2006 4:55:05 PM EDT
[#9]
Here's a trick from my muzzleloading days: Put an air hose in the breech end of the barrel and give it a blast! You prob'ly want to seal it some way, like with a rubber grommet. Also seal the gas tube to keep the air pressure from leaking away.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/5/2006 10:13:57 AM EDT
[#10]
Wouldn't firing a blank force out a stuck wad also? Just how bad an idea would that be?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/5/2006 1:11:12 PM EDT
[#11]
prety stupid idea to use a balnk.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/5/2006 5:07:37 PM EDT
[#12]
Yea.
Well, the update is that it' still lodged in there. I did try the wood screw idea, but it can't get a good enough "thread" so all I manage to do is rip up the patch that i can get to. Then I pull what I can up with the end of a rubber coated hanger, or the needle nose pliers. Still not sure what to do. I guess a vise/or buddy pulling on it is next? |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/5/2006 11:52:12 PM EDT
[#13]
You are very patient, I must say! Howabout cutting the bore snake (perhaps about 2-3 inches above the muzzle). Then, stick a 0.17 cal bore cleaning rod (no jag or brush) down the middle of the bore snake. Once the rod can go no further, a sharp rap with a mallet on the handle of the cleaning rod should force the snake/patch back out of the chamber end. R.I.P. Bore Snake (but snakes are cheap) |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/7/2006 8:31:44 AM EDT
[#14]
But it sounds fun, hold my beer and watch this.... 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/7/2006 5:36:51 PM EDT
[#15]
Coat hanger, or other very hard wire. Cut length, and bend tip into severe hook. Sharpen point of hook....go fishing in the chamber.
Just be hyper careful you don't scratch the crap outta the chamber walls. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/7/2006 10:02:46 PM EDT
[#16]
Since it will likely burn very well soaked in clp, why not put a lighter to it. Should burn it enough for it to shrink so you can pull it out.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2006 2:54:54 AM EDT
[#17]
what about compressed air?
90 psi, with something to seal off the gas tube. it should shoot out the patch with the pressure. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2006 7:17:52 AM EDT
[#18]
Boy, this thread really makes me want to own a bore snake...
. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2006 7:29:15 AM EDT
[#19]
As wacky as this sounds, it just might work. Of course, that is assuming CLP is flammable. I've never tried to light it up. Of course, you might wind up with a lot of melted nylon sticking to your rifling. MJD |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2006 7:29:32 AM EDT
[#20]
Indeed! Use a LIVE ROUND!! 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2006 7:44:42 AM EDT
[#21]
I wonder if a long surgical forcep that locks would do the trick...
 Click here and scroll down the page to the 24" long serrated forceps. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2006 8:11:14 AM EDT
[#22]
The problem started when the OP did not use the bore snake as intended. I have two snakes (.22 and .30) but do not use them because the Otis does a much better job (I can just toss away the dirty patches). Ever try washing CLP soaked cotton w/o tossing it into a washing machine? 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2006 8:11:46 AM EDT
[#23]
If you people would just stick to USGI kits there would be no problems.
Just how fast and quick is the snake now? |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2006 8:21:35 AM EDT
[#24]
The USGI kit with the 3/4 piece steel rods?? I'd pass on those and stick to the Otis. I know people recommend Dewey 1 piece rods but the Otis is much easier to use and store.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2006 8:50:52 AM EDT
[#25]
Read the post above yours. The problem was not with the Bore Snake, the problem was the misuse of the Bore Snake. Crap 3 or maybe even 2 patches into your eylet and push it into your bore and see how easily it comes out. Or doesn't. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2006 8:56:38 AM EDT
[#26]
Why would anyone do that? Plus if you just use a conventional rod or GI kit, you can pull our patches thru the bore. If a patch is too tight, just push it back thru the chamber. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2006 11:29:03 AM EDT
[#27]
 that was hilarious! No offense to the original poster as i've done dummer things than that as i would guess most of us have. sounds like bad luck with the boresnake, i thought they were fool proof. i once got my trowser snake stuck, a vice and a half gallon of vegetable oil and two hours later i was no worse for the wear. good luck if it is still stuck. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 2/9/2006 7:08:22 PM EDT
[#28]
Any updates? I have the same problem. It's soaking in LUBE as I type this.
 ETA I finally got that f*ck*r out. just used some drain-o. Is it bad that I don't see any rifling in my barrel anymore? 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/9/2006 10:40:52 PM EDT
[#29]
BTW, another thing you could try would be to use some sort of delrin or fiberglass or wood rod/dowel slightly smaller than the bore and drive it out.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/9/2006 10:50:41 PM EDT
[#30]
You said the wood screw didn't work, try a long sheet rock screw, they will grab much better than the wood screw. I would work on reversing it not pulling it thru.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/11/2006 5:27:57 PM EDT
[#31]
Extremely bad idea. You see, when a bullet is fired, the pressure increases gradually.... the bullet actually begins moving before the powder is fully expended (burned)... so the gradually burning powder has somewhere to expand in to... and still pushes the bullet out the end of the barrel. The problem here is similar to that encountered when a previously-fired bullet gets stuck in the barrel. The powder pressure curve goes WAAAY over the limit of the barrel's ability to withstand the pressure... and kaBOOM happens. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/11/2006 9:58:08 PM EDT
[#32]
Aren't most blanks either loaded very light or primer only though? The difference between this and a squib is that there is no 2nd bullet slamming into something already there, just the gasses forcing their way out similar to a blackpowder rifle firing only a wad. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 2/11/2006 10:04:36 PM EDT
[#33]
Coathanger, from the muzzle, pops it right out. It's not that hard.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/13/2006 9:57:40 AM EDT
[#34]
First I meant cram, not crap. Don't know how I mistyped that. Some people want a very tight patch for whatever reason. The Bore Snake is great for quick cleaning, say at the end of the shooting day before you pack up for home. I don't like the uncoated steel rods, especially the screw together kind that will have the sharp edges. They will rub against the bore. Probably won't cause any damage, the chrome is probably 4 times harder than the rod, but still. I just use the bore Snake for quick cleanings and a coated rod back at home. |
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 2/13/2006 1:07:22 PM EDT
[#35]
I had this same problem and tried a pair of those, if the patch is really stuck these won't get them out. You'll be able to clamp onto the patch, but no matter how tight or hard you keep it, the patch will slide out of it. When I had this problem, I tried everything and what I found to work was using a sharp pick and I simply picked away material from the patch until the patch was small enough to be easily pulled out. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/15/2006 5:30:28 AM EDT
[#36]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/17/2006 3:35:04 PM EDT
[#37]
We need an update!
In the meantime, here's another thought. Purchase 5000 Units of Cellulase derived from the fungus, Aspergillus niger (this would be about 20 bucks from Sigma Chemical Company in St Louis, catalog # C1184). One unit is defined as liberating 1 µmole of glucose from cellulose in 1 hour at 37° C, pH 5 and I'd guess buffered in phosphate buffered saline. Since 1 Unit is about 3 mg in this particular product, I'd say make a solution of about 10 mg/mL... maybe make about 5 mL of this stuff. Drop the solution into the chamber and allow it to soak the cotton patch. Incubate your gun somewhere warm. Store the remaining Cellulase in the freezer (2-8° C)... you'll never know when you may need it again when you use the "Boresnake-patch method." The cotton patches should dissolve (hopefully, the Boresnake is not cotton). 1 µmole of glucose is about 180 µg (glucose is about 180 grams/mole). So, if a patch weighs about 5 grams (I'm guessing), the 15 Units of Cellulase you added should dissolve about 2.7 mg or about 1/20th per cent of the patch. This really should be adequate, but you may wish to add some fresh Cellulase and soak longer. NOTE: The gun stores probably will not carry Cellulase, and if they did, they may know it by it's actual name "1,4-[1,3;1,4]-beta-D-glucan 4-glucanohydrolase." 
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
