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Posted: 1/15/2014 6:04:16 PM EDT
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Hey,
I've been deployed a couple of times, so no posts and limited lurking. I have the above 22 set up and the gun fires, extracts, ejects and chambers the following round. The hammer, 9/10 times will not cock back. I have standard springs and a standard hammer in there. This is my first rimfire set up and am looking for advice. Can I lighten the hammer to aide in the cocking? Thanks |
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I wouldn't recommend cutting the spring just yet. The black parkerized kits take a while to wear in. They usually require high velocity 22 ammo to function when new. Make sure to use lube on the rails, I normally use CLP or frog lube. If you continue to have problems you can bend one leg of the hammer spring to reduce tension for the blow back bolt.
Normally Stainless Steel kits work better when new but I still run my kits wet with CLP and have good luck with Federal 36 grain bulk ammo. |
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A Little info on your rifle dude? I assume your running a drop in conversion kit? Iv got one as well. As the others have said, the unit takes a while to break in and should not require any mods to your standard milspec FCG parts.
Are you running a carbine, middy, rifle length gas system? Barrel length? Id start with the simple stuff first dude. Here are a few things to check, Make sure your bolt isnt scrubbing the back half of your charging handle. Do this by cocking the hammer via CH, and hand cycle your bolt with a pen/tool to feel for resistance on the cycle. CH Could need a little tolerance adjustment. Also, the two parts od your CMMG bolt kit that could cause a "slow cycle" or "short cycle" condition are points of friction. For mine, i took some. 1000grit sand paler and hit the rails of the bolt where thefriction would take place during cycling. I also hit the "inside" of where the rails touch on the carrier part of the bolt. The last and probably most noticable improvement was taking a 22cal bore mop on a cleaning rod and getting some polish compound on there and spin it inside where the guide rod and spring sit inside the carrier part. I chucked the cleaning rod/bore mop in my drill and slathered the mop in mothers mag polish. Make sure to lightly oil friction points after everything. Should be slicker then snot dude!!! Your goal here is to knock down any tooling marks or burrs, and make a nice slick surface for the parts to ride on. Since doing those things to mine and my buddies kits, they run flawlessly. Not finnicky on any ammo at all. :) If you have a dremel, now is a great time to make use of it. Use a polishing wheel after using the 1000grit paper. And disreguard any jackass comments about "pic fails" and other stupid non helpful comments. The ones that offer zero help on their posts but only leave non helpful deragatory/snide remarks only make for a waste of bandwidth and a waste of our time reading their half sentence posts. Let us know how those things help out, and if your still having problems after a quick search on the topic and not sure what else to do , feel free to PM me and i will do what i can to help you out. Thanks for serving our country bro. Semper Fidelis. |
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Thanks for the help. I'll try it out this weekend. The gun is a NoDak 16 retro lower with a Izzy type upper and brand new double star barrel. The CMMG is a parkerized one and may need some break in. I am using black dog magazines. Like I said everything is working and cycling except the hammer reset. Dremel to the rescue.
BTW… Former 13F and 82C. Artillery Dude will know what I'm talking about. Same school house in OK. |
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This is a Sticky Thread that Forever4 started, tells a lot that may help. Others 22 info is at the top of the Rimfire / Pistol Cal Index.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_15/526872_How_to_make_your_AR_22_run_smoother_NOW_with_pictures.html Dave in Florida |
| Forgot to mention, take a peek at where your bolt would smack the hammer to reset it. Sometimes they are boogered up. Atleast in my case it was. Took a dremel to the surfaces and deburred it, then decided to polish the face of my hammer where it smacks the fireing pin and bangs into it to reset after firing. The hammer polishing is definatly not necessary, but it looks nice. Lol. Good luck dude. Ohh yeah, and i friggen hated ft sill! So damn cold! Damn negative degrees all the time and windy as shit in the mornings! I went through in january and feburary. F that man! Lol. |
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Quoted:
This is a Sticky Thread that Forever4 started, tells a lot that may help. Others 22 info is at the top of the Rimfire / Pistol Cal Index. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_15/526872_How_to_make_your_AR_22_run_smoother_NOW_with_pictures.html Dave in Florida This link provides nearly everything you'll need to get up and running. It was probably the single most helpful source of information regarding the AR22 and answers most questions concerning malfunctions while furnishing practical solutions to those problems. You won't find anything that even comes close, anywhere else. Hat's off to John in TN for kicking it off and to Dave for reminding us it exists. Ted |
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Update:
I cleaned the entire gun and took the 22 kit completely apart. I took some love and CLP to the kit and worked it about 200 times and then hit the range. 100 rounds of asst .22 LR and not one malfunction of any kind. Thanks again for the tips. I swear picts to follow. |
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