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7/11/2026 3:26:37 AM EDT
[Last Edit: PilotForPinochet][Edited]
I would like to ask you guys a few questions.


What tool kit would you recommend?

Any good sources on build videos?

Tips/Tricks?


What are your Does and Don’ts?


I don’t have tools and will have to get some, should have gotten them by now.
7/11/2026 8:11:19 AM EDT
[Last Edit: jwliv180][Edited] [#1]
I'm not sure I'd go for a single kit, but rather get separately
- a good set of punches (1)
- a good gunsmith screwdriver bit set
- small soft tipped hammer
- armorer's wrench (many options out there)
- torque wrench in the right range
- some of these from CountyComm.
- good safety glasses
- patience and a sense of humor!

I'm probably forgetting something, it's been a minute since I went through the tool-up process. So double check!

If you have a bench vice, an insert to hold the lower while you work on it can make some things easier. I have one that locks into the mag well, once the mag catch is installed.

(1) The custom punches for the bolt release install and removal, with flattened areas, can save you significant angst re scratches. If you get them a little bit of heat shrink tubing makes them even less likely to scratch.

If you're doing an upper as well as a lower I'd add a reaction rod or upper clamps (opinions vary as to which is better, I like the MI reaction rod but the ones Brownells sells work too).

Do have spare parts. Get an "oops kit" which has spare springs etc.

Do wear safety glasses. Springs tend to get lost "with authority" when they go.

Do take time to make sure you're installing the right spring in the right place and orientation. The takedown pin springs look a lot like the selector detent spring if you're not familiar with them, for instance. and they really shouldn't be interchanged.

Do stop if something doesn't feel right. While some parts are "friction fit" e.g. pinned, and some springs can be annoying, you shouldn't need a lot of force any place other than where you might expect it. The one exception I can think of to this rule might be a standard style trigger, which can be a bear to spring and get installed if you've never done it before.

Do spend some time to play with the trigger set on the bench, if you're not using a cartridge drop-in type. Make sure the springs sit on the hardware where they're supposed to. It can be wrong and "sorta" feel like it works. But it won't.

Do buy quality tools and parts.

Do consider getting a paper book with good pictures. Getting the pages a little mussed can be a better alternative than trying to work with with a tablet or laptop when your hands are grimy.

Don't rush it.
7/11/2026 9:01:23 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote History
Originally Posted By jwliv180:
I'm not sure I'd go for a single kit, but rather get separately
- a good set of punches (1)
- a good gunsmith screwdriver bit set
- small soft tipped hammer
- armorer's wrench (many options out there)
- torque wrench in the right range
- some of these from CountyComm.
- good safety glasses
- patience and a sense of humor!

I'm probably forgetting something, it's been a minute since I went through the tool-up process. So double check!

If you have a bench vice, an insert to hold the lower while you work on it can make some things easier. I have one that locks into the mag well, once the mag catch is installed.

(1) The custom punches for the bolt release install and removal, with flattened areas, can save you significant angst re scratches. If you get them a little bit of heat shrink tubing makes them even less likely to scratch.

If you're doing an upper as well as a lower I'd add a reaction rod or upper clamps (opinions vary as to which is better, I like the MI reaction rod but the ones Brownells sells work too).

Do have spare parts. Get an "oops kit" which has spare springs etc.

Do wear safety glasses. Springs tend to get lost "with authority" when they go.

Do take time to make sure you're installing the right spring in the right place and orientation. The takedown pin springs look a lot like the selector detent spring if you're not familiar with them, for instance. and they really shouldn't be interchanged.

Do stop if something doesn't feel right. While some parts are "friction fit" e.g. pinned, and some springs can be annoying, you shouldn't need a lot of force any place other than where you might expect it. The one exception I can think of to this rule might be a standard style trigger, which can be a bear to spring and get installed if you've never done it before.

Do spend some time to play with the trigger set on the bench, if you're not using a cartridge drop-in type. Make sure the springs sit on the hardware where they're supposed to. It can be wrong and "sorta" feel like it works. But it won't.

Do buy quality tools and parts.

Do consider getting a paper book with good pictures. Getting the pages a little mussed can be a better alternative than trying to work with with a tablet or laptop when your hands are grimy.

Don't rush it.
View Quote

He's not really wrong.

However...I would recommend just starting with a cheap lower and using what tools you have on hand.

Then you can figure out what tools will make life easier. Plus you will appreciate them that much more.

You can also look in your hometown forum for someone local to help. Also check for a traveling loaner tool thread there was one here a while back.
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you.
7/11/2026 11:22:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: turbolarry][Edited] [#3]
Beg, borrow, or steal;
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007352657?srsltid=AfmBOoradRv1NtjVPyD3xPzdi0kiObNojkiYi7TLa4tHEBx8TeaXvJc2&pid=747639

One of these in a vice makes putting together an upper and a lower way easier;
https://magpul.com/bev-block-ar15-m4.html

Get a torque wrench, or do the unofficial "Loaner Tool Program" at Harbor Freight, Lowe's, or Home Depot if you're never going to need it again;
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-10-to-150-ft-lb-click-torque-wrench-63882.html

These videos helped me a ton ( scroll down to the ones from 5 years ago);

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLFENSfZVVLqRpote2GFiwK5W2EBgU24XP&si=-IPjI2qQ5R2VgvLP


These two aren't too bad either;

https://youtu.be/U2qI92X1xN8?si=P0WYPqopsNJE0ivR

https://youtu.be/MIc0XFy1Sgg?si=BRoQDS39p4bOsvOg
7/11/2026 12:36:23 PM EDT
[#4]
All great advice posted.

Only really "specialized" tool required is an armorers wrench, if you already have a decent complement of personal tools.

I use a worn out, deadlined magazine to chuck in the vise and slip the lower onto it to support ot when working on lowers.

There is actually a shit ton of good advice here in tacked threads too.  

Anything posted by Tweak, for example, is gold, and should be adhered to.
7/11/2026 1:40:59 PM EDT
[#5]
For starters, I'd recommend:

-Grab a set of roll pin punches and roll pin starter punches.
-Have a basic set of allen wrenches and torx bits.
-Set of screwdrivers.
-Magwell block for a vise.
-Combo wrench for barrel nut, castle nut and muzzle device.
-Bottle of blue loctite and a bottle of red loctite.
-Center punch for staking castle nuts.
-Small, brass gunsmith's hammer. Or at the least, a small ball-pein hammer.

There are a million other tools that you'll end up collecting over the years if you decide you enjoy building. I see you're in NV. If you decide you want to have someone look over your shoulder while you build the rifle or to see all the tools for ARs, you're welcome to bring your parts over (I'm in Cedar City, UT) and I'll help. I was a small arms repairman for half of my 20 years, so I've turned wrenches on the M16-series for a good bit.
RIP TSgt Jason Norton and SSgt Brian McElroy. KIA 22 Jan 06, near Taji, Iraq.
LaRue Armorer, Colt 1911 Armorer, Colt M16/AR15 Armorer, Glock Armorer
7/11/2026 3:24:54 PM EDT
[#6]
From the tacked thread at the top of the page here :


https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Assemble_your_own_LOWER__UPPER__FREE_FLOAT__TRIGGER__GAS_BLOCK___Step_by_step_instructions_/4-226782/

https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/Important-Threads-Check-Here-First/4-605350/

Somewhat dated in some aspects, still lots of viable info there though.
7/11/2026 3:52:12 PM EDT
[#7]
Spare take down detents and springs. They are cheap and you're gonna launch a couple at first. Everyone does, its a right of passage. Once they launch, you may recover them 1/100 times but typically they're gone for good.
7/11/2026 5:22:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: CATM][Edited] [#8]
Quote History
Originally Posted By ROMAD-556:
Spare take down detents and springs. They are cheap and you're gonna launch a couple at first. Everyone does, its a right of passage. Once they launch, you may recover them 1/100 times but typically they're gone for good.
View Quote

100% spot on. Most of us keep a small benchstock of spare pins/springs/detents on hand, and for good reason. Pivot pin detents can launch. When folks talk about "space junk" orbiting the earth, I'm fairly certain a good chunk of that junk is pivot pin detents.
RIP TSgt Jason Norton and SSgt Brian McElroy. KIA 22 Jan 06, near Taji, Iraq.
LaRue Armorer, Colt 1911 Armorer, Colt M16/AR15 Armorer, Glock Armorer
7/11/2026 5:50:42 PM EDT
[#9]
Looks like most is covered already. As far as I can remember anyway. To advise further you’d have to say what format. Mostly I do retro stuff.

A threaded rear detent spring hole and grub/set screw is handy. Some barrels are tight. Always prefer thermal expansion fit to removing material. Check ejection port cover fit and function before final assembly. Same with your sling attachment points and paint or coating. Have that figured out ahead of time. I love DuraCoat and Vibra-tite oil resistant thread lock.

20” barrels and fiber optic sights are highly underrated. Geissele makes or sells excellent punches. The ball end one here is really handy. I should’ve bought two. Perfect for mocking up fire control parts. These are a few of my favorite things. The grease injector is perfect for detents. Just don’t overdo it.

Attached File
7/14/2026 11:51:58 PM EDT
[#10]
There are also tool kits which make installing take down pins easier. They help to insert the springs and detents. Not necessary, but helpful and handy. Sorry, no idea where I got it. Have had it for a decade maybe.

Attached File


I’m excited to hear how it’s going.
7/15/2026 8:53:18 AM EDT
[Last Edit: runguns][Edited] [#11]
this little guy right here is worth its weight in gold https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/rifle-tools/bolt-catch-pin-punch/

and your thumbs will thank you for having this tool https://www.suppressortools.com/product/michiguns-ltd-4348/
7/15/2026 12:40:16 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Originally Posted By runguns:
this little guy right here is worth its weight in gold https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/rifle-tools/bolt-catch-pin-punch/

and your thumbs will thank you for having this tool https://www.suppressortools.com/product/michiguns-ltd-4348/
View Quote


I had to watch this to see the value. The inside of my receivers would look a lot less scratched with it.

7/15/2026 10:22:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BoiseG][Edited] [#13]
Quote History
Originally Posted By ROMAD-556:
Spare take down detents and springs. They are cheap and you're gonna launch a couple at first. Everyone does, its a right of passage. Once they launch, you may recover them 1/100 times but typically they're gone for good.
View Quote


I did the same thing on my first build, launched the forward detent that is today, hiding out with the 10mm sockets somewhere in my garage.  

OP,

Once upon a time I was an A&P mechanic and also a Cummins diesel mechanic, so I'm all about tools and I went a little overboard buying them.   As mentioned above a pivot pin tool will make life easy.

Thoughts on some of the various tools I bought:  

I have a Midwest Industries (MI) Armorers Wrench and it is very nice. If you're buying an armorers wrench, this is the one I recommend.  What I like about it is it's not polished, the finish has a bit of texture or grit to it that I like because it gets a good bite on parts like the castle nut.  Highly recommend it.  For comparison, I originally bought a Forward Controls Design Joint Castle Nut Wrench and I didn't care for it. I thought the FCD tool would work better for torquing the castle nut because of its size, but it's opposite of the MI armorer's tool. The FCD wrench is polished and it definitely will slip off the nut if you're not careful. The MI armorers wrench works much better than the FCD wrench for torquing the castle nut.

I also bought the Midwest Industries Upper Receiver Rod, I found it on sale at Lanbo's for $87 (not a joke) so watch for a sale if you're interested.  It comes highly recommended by The School of the American Rifle YouTube channel, which by the way is my #1 recommendation, check out that channel.  However, unless I did something wrong, the rod doesn't work for installing the barrel into the upper receiver.  I found that the upper will insert too deeply onto the rod without the barrel installed, so to use the tool for barrel install, you must somehow prevent the upper from inserting too deeply onto the rod, otherwise the barrel will bottom out on the rod before fully seating into the upper.  I had a BCM upper which needs to be heated for the barrel install and I was concerned with the upper cooling before I could finagle the barrel into the hot upper, so for the barrel install, I ended up buying a  Wheeler Upper Vise Block Clamp.  The face of the Wheeler tool melted just a small bit when I was heating the upper, so one side is now dedicated for barrel installs.  

The final MI tool that I bought was the Lower Receiver Block, and I didn't find it as useful as I thought it would be, and to be honest I regret buying it. I used it to install the gas tube to the gas block, and install the trigger guard and that's it.  I think it would be more useful if they cut it so it would fit the lower while the grip is mounted.

If you're budget conscious, Real Avid makes well designed tools and they work great, but the material they're made of is full on cheap Made in China quality.  But they work, that's the important part.  lol  

Our very own Brownells also has an excellent video series for building an AR.  

Brownells - How to Build An AR-15: Your AR Build Made Easy
7/15/2026 10:45:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: hodgescl][Edited] [#14]
A lower can be put together after 8 beers with a screwdriver and channel locks.

Uppers really need some sort of vice and wrench for the barrel nut.

Also use electrical or painters tape for your channel locks. Cuts down in the gouges.

The hardest thing is finding a detent you let slip. Luckily my last few kits came with spares.
7/16/2026 2:31:27 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote History
Originally Posted By BoiseG:


I did the same thing on my first build, launched the forward detent that is today, hiding out with the 10mm sockets somewhere in my garage.  

OP,

Once upon a time I was an A&P mechanic and also a Cummins diesel mechanic, so I'm all about tools and I went a little overboard buying them.   As mentioned above a pivot pin tool will make life easy.

Thoughts on some of the various tools I bought:  

I have a Midwest Industries (MI) Armorers Wrench and it is very nice. If you're buying an armorers wrench, this is the one I recommend.  What I like about it is it's not polished, the finish has a bit of texture or grit to it that I like because it gets a good bite on parts like the castle nut.  Highly recommend it.  For comparison, I originally bought a Forward Controls Design Joint Castle Nut Wrench and I didn't care for it. I thought the FCD tool would work better for torquing the castle nut because of its size, but it's opposite of the MI armorer's tool. The FCD wrench is polished and it definitely will slip off the nut if you're not careful. The MI armorers wrench works much better than the FCD wrench for torquing the castle nut.

I also bought the Midwest Industries Upper Receiver Rod, I found it on sale at Lanbo's for $87 (not a joke) so watch for a sale if you're interested.  It comes highly recommended by The School of the American Rifle YouTube channel, which by the way is my #1 recommendation, check out that channel.  However, unless I did something wrong, the rod doesn't work for installing the barrel into the upper receiver.  I found that the upper will insert too deeply onto the rod without the barrel installed, so to use the tool for barrel install, you must somehow prevent the upper from inserting too deeply onto the rod, otherwise the barrel will bottom out on the rod before fully seating into the upper.  I had a BCM upper which needs to be heated for the barrel install and I was concerned with the upper cooling before I could finagle the barrel into the hot upper, so for the barrel install, I ended up buying a  Wheeler Upper Vise Block Clamp.  The face of the Wheeler tool melted just a small bit when I was heating the upper, so one side is now dedicated for barrel installs.  

The final MI tool that I bought was the Lower Receiver Block, and I didn't find it as useful as I thought it would be, and to be honest I regret buying it. I used it to install the gas tube to the gas block, and install the trigger guard and that's it.  I think it would be more useful if they cut it so it would fit the lower while the grip is mounted.

If you're budget conscious, Real Avid makes well designed tools and they work great, but the material they're made of is full on cheap Made in China quality.  But they work, that's the important part.  lol  

Our very own Brownells also has an excellent video series for building an AR.  

Brownells - How to Build An AR-15: Your AR Build Made Easy
View Quote


Some lighters can be scrapped for the spring and maybe even flint. A Bic is almost too large for the takedowns. It drags. But the spring is good for two front post detents springs. The flint can fit as a selector detent. I wonder if it sparks when flicked.
7/17/2026 1:28:04 AM EDT
[#16]
Iirc a 1/4" clevis pin from hardware store and a properly sized drift punch is the low buck tooling for installing/removing the pivot pin and detent.

Sometimes tolerance stack makes the clevis pin a tight fit but you can spin it in drill with sandpaper and or lube it and usually works ok.
7/17/2026 3:11:12 AM EDT
[Last Edit: m200maker][Edited] [#17]
When installing your detents make sure you do it in a kitchen on linoleum floors and have a cat present. When the detents go flying, the cat will find them and point them out for you.

Or use an exacto blade to hold them depressed as you install the take down pin.
7/17/2026 1:21:15 PM EDT
[#18]
You can also do the work inside a clear plastic bag, so that if things launch, they won't go far.
7/17/2026 2:09:57 PM EDT
[#19]
Use a Pliers wrench to press in pins.  Way easier than punches imho.
7/17/2026 11:25:30 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote History
Originally Posted By CosaviK:
Use a Pliers wrench to press in pins.  Way easier than punches imho.
View Quote


I use those too and the first time I used them, I wrapped the jaws in electrical tape to prevent any scuff, but I wasn't paying attention and after using it a couple of times, the tape tore at one corner exposing the metal jaws right at its corner, and sure as shit, scuffed my upper installing the forward assist pin.  Good thing I planned to rattle can that one.  

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