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Posted: 2/16/2009 7:47:22 AM EDT
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I have a 14.5 Noveske barrel and I was out shooting it and observed some problems. This is the 4th time I have taken it out and first time to experience these issues. It had NOT been cleaned prior, but please give me some advice (other than clean it!) I have had maybe 600 rounds through it now max, and normally run it w/ a suppressor.
I was shooting and occassionaly the bolt wont lock back on empty mag (pmag) late in the shooting session-I would shoot, it would load a round and i cant pull the trigger, as maybe it did not reset the trigger? (this is really odd, never had this before) - I was shooting steel case ammo, which they had light primer strike marks on them too, but I didnt "pull the trigger" - I have an H buffer on it and a Jard 2lb trigger When taking it apart to clean this morning, I noticed in addition to heat discloration on the gas tube, it appears there is a leak (maybe? is it possible?) near both ends as they are black ish, like coated in carbon, not alot, just a little, is this something to worry about, other than the problems described, as this would leave me to believe it may be partially responsible for the formentioned problems. It is a middy barrel/gas system. Please advise |
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Is the gas block a pinned one from Noveske? If so, there shouldn't be a problem with the alignment. Unless it is one of the older set screw only gas blocks.
[rant on]Stop shooting crap Russian ammo through a Noveske barrel.[/rant off] The dirty ends near the gas tube are normal and eventually will seal up any small cracks around the gas block area. Perfectly normal. You are shooting crappy dirty ammo with a suppressor which will force even more dirty crap back into the bcg. I'm sure one it starts getting dirty it will start to short stroke causing it to not lock the bolt open on the last round. My 20" AR would only shoot about 250 rounds of Radway Green ammo before it started to short stroke and started having failures. I only shoot Federal AE or BHBB or FedXM193 now + handloads. I stay away from crappy ammo. |
| 1st, yes, its factory noveske gas block that came on it. 2nd, Yeah, I know its shitty ammo, but I was letting my buddy's Girlfriend shoot it, and since it didnt matter where she hit (though she man handled it and was dancing on the 2lb trigger and destroying the target). It makes sense about the carbon sealing it up, but It is on the barrel and everything. I just though that was odd...so basically..it should correct itself, just clean the SOB? |
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It is easy to see carbon blow out on the Noveske barrels since they are SS by default. I have carbon that blew out on mine around the pinned gas block area. It will eventually stop doing that.
I would clean the BCG really good and run some hot ammo through it like XM193 to get any of that crap out of the gas tube. Don't forget, Russian ammo is underpowered. Add that with more shit being blown back into the BCG because of the suppressor and you will start having failures. Clean it and try some good ammo and see how it goes. Try taking the suppressor off and shooting too. |
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Quoted:
I have a 14.5 Noveske barrel and I was out shooting it and observed some problems. This is the 4th time I have taken it out and first time to experience these issues. It had NOT been cleaned prior, but please give me some advice (other than clean it!) I have had maybe 600 rounds through it now max, and normally run it w/ a suppressor. I was shooting and occassionaly the bolt wont lock back on empty mag (pmag) late in the shooting session-I would shoot, it would load a round and i cant pull the trigger, as maybe it did not reset the trigger? (this is really odd, never had this before) - I was shooting steel case ammo, which they had light primer strike marks on them too, but I didnt "pull the trigger" - I have an H buffer on it and a Jard 2lb trigger When taking it apart to clean this morning, I noticed in addition to heat discloration on the gas tube, it appears there is a leak (maybe? is it possible?) near both ends as they are black ish, like coated in carbon, not alot, just a little, is this something to worry about, other than the problems described, as this would leave me to believe it may be partially responsible for the formentioned problems. It is a middy barrel/gas system. Please advise What about this event? Is that directly related too? I mean, I understand if there was not enough power to load a round and the hammer did not cocked, but what about the fact one loaded and there was a light strike mark? Think too much gunk around the bolt and firing pin and im only a few rounds away from slam fires???? |
| I'm inclined to think that without suppressor on short barrel dwell time is marginal causing short stroking. the slight dent in primer can be caused by floating firing pin lightly hitting as hammer follows carrier after not resetting trigger. Thats a theory based on my understanding not my engineering specialty. I've had a AR pistol I built for friend do same thing and had to open gas port slightly to encrease pressure as short barrel and gas port position prevented nominal dwell time. |
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Step 1 - Clean the gun completely, I mean white glove clean. Lubricate generously with a decent oil, such as Mil-Comm MC2500
Step 2 - Shit can that fire control group for a standard mil-spec single stage trigger group from Stag, RRA or even DPMS (would be better than what you put in there). They work, and work well, 99.9999999% of the time. Step 3 - Make sure you are running a "H" buffer or even a standard carbine buffer if you shoot Wolf most of the time. I am 99% sure that the above things will make your gun run through as many rounds as you want next time you go to the range (even with Wolf). If not, send back to Noveske. The problem is most likely not the ammo - it is the gun, tinkering with the gun, failure to properly maintain the gun. I shoot a metric ass ton of Wolf through all my guns (including two Noveske's) with very few problems. My $0.02. ETA: I see you are running a "H" buffer - check mark for Step 3. ETA2: Gas tube stuff you describe is normal. |
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Quoted:
Step 1 - Clean the gun completely, I mean white glove clean. Lubricate generously with a decent oil, such as Mil-Comm MC2500 Step 2 - Shit can that fire control group for a standard mil-spec single stage trigger group from Stag, RRA or even DPMS (would be better than what you put in there). They work, and work well, 99.9999999% of the time. Step 3 - Make sure you are running a "H" buffer or even a standard carbine buffer if you shoot Wolf most of the time. I am 99% sure that the above things will make your gun run through as many rounds as you want next time you go to the range (even with Wolf). If not, send back to Noveske. The problem is most likely not the ammo - it is the gun, tinkering with the gun, failure to properly maintain the gun. I shoot a metric ass ton of Wolf through all my guns (including two Noveske's) with very few problems. My $0.02. ETA: I see you are running a "H" buffer - check mark for Step 3. ETA2: Gas tube stuff you describe is normal. Oh, I know it was dirty, I mean, I really wanted to run it until I could get her to malfunction, and it wasn't as long as I would like, but I know its dirty ammo, and I know the suppressor exacerbates that. In regards to exchanging the FCG, I love that trigger, its great, I can dance on it. |
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Please let me define dwell time, it's the time between the time the base of bullet passes gas port which pressurizes gas system and the time bullet leaves barrel which effectively stops pressure. with full length gas tube and short barrel the DWELL time don't allow enough time to completely cycle weapon. exaserbating problems include dirty gun, suppressor off, less lube. As I said before this might work if clean but it's not. The suppressor is probably supporting dwell by holding pressure up a little longer. If that cheap russian shit as someone called it was the problem, a lot fewer people would be shooting. It's dirty but it does work, very few things the russkies make don't work.
As far as, can bolt pick up next round and not reset trigger, sure can given the bolt style. There is a theory called "Occum's Razor" which say's the easies't answer is probably the right one. In this case what is the only thing changed? No Can installed! |
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Quoted:
Please let me define dwell time, it's the time between the time the base of bullet passes gas port which pressurizes gas system and the time bullet leaves barrel which effectively stops pressure. with full length gas tube and short barrel the DWELL time don't allow enough time to completely cycle weapon. exaserbating problems include dirty gun, suppressor off, less lube. As I said before this might work if clean but it's not. The suppressor is probably supporting dwell by holding pressure up a little longer. If that cheap russian shit as someone called it was the problem, a lot fewer people would be shooting. It's dirty but it does work, very few things the russkies make don't work. As far as, can bolt pick up next round and not reset trigger, sure can given the bolt style. There is a theory called "Occum's Razor" which say's the easies't answer is probably the right one. In this case what is the only thing changed? No Can installed! Well...I dont think its the ammo, because it worked w/ this and intermediately running some m193 through it. I understand w/ the dwell time, but in that theory, shouldnt the suppressor better help it cycle? Ironically, it is malfunctioning (havnt run it since clean, but Im very positive it will be fine running clean, at least until fouling builds up) w/ the suppressor on, not off. But when I put it on, I ran another 120-180 rounds, which might have been the tipping point... But, I did not try taking the can off and firing after I started to get malfunctions (1-6) per mag, because the can was too hot to take off, and it was the end of what I was shooting, and did not feel like waiting for that hot son of a bitch to cool |
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