Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
AR Sponsor
Yesterday 6:42:27 AM EDT
Attached File


PSA A4 upper. Ontario M9 bayonet.

That's as far as it goes. (Even with the locking jaws spread out fully). Has anyone had to trim parts of their bayonet lug to make it fit the locking mechanism before. I can't even tell what parts are hitting what. Is this normal for a first time mounting a bayonet on a new lug?

I also have a different bayonet inbound (M7) so maybe it's the knife itself and the other one will work?

One doesn't have a 20 inch A2/A4 and not have a bayonet on it! Those blades aren't cheap and I'd like to actually be able to mount it onto the rifle.
The “Three Stupid” Rule: “Do not go to stupid places, with stupid people, and do stupid things”

Religion is a handy device for keeping the philosophically deficient in line.
Yesterday 8:33:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: j3_][Edited] [#1]
is there still a gap between the hilt and the crush washer so the knife can move more towards the lug? I don't think the hole in the hilt will go past some crush washers at the flash hider.
Looks like it is bottomed against the lug at the bottom of the latch slot cut out?

It would be hard to describe the lug dimensions, but the drawings were or are online for the sight base and lug.
Yesterday 10:02:56 AM EDT
[Last Edit: lysanderxiii][Edited] [#2]
I don't think your bayonet is correct. The base of the pommel should butt against the bottom projection of the lug.

Originally Posted By j3_:
is there still a gap between the hilt and the crush washer so the knife can move more towards the lug? I don't think the hole in the hilt will go past some crush washers at the flash hider.
Looks like it is bottomed against the lug at the bottom of the latch slot cut out?

It would be hard to describe the lug dimensions, but the drawings were or are online for the sight base and lug.
View Quote

The diameter of the barrel support ring on the cross guard is 0.875 +0.020", the flash suppressor diameter is 0.834 +/- .010".  The crush washer diameter is 3/4 inch.

The maximum width of the bayonet lug is 0.45".  The slots on the sides are 0.185 wide, 0.086" deep, and 0.150" from the bottom of the step.

If your lug meets those dimensions, the problem lies in the bayonet.
Yesterday 10:31:28 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Dano523][Edited] [#3]
Problem is your trying to use a M9  on a 16" barrel, and it only works on a 14.5"  M4 or 20" barrel that puts the FS in the correct location for the ring on the Knife.




So to achieve what your trying to do to attach the M9, will need to have the barrel shortened to 14.5", then have a longer FS permanently attached to the barrel to make the bore of the barrel from locked home, to end of FS, 16" to keep the rifle as Class 1 with back of FS if the correct position.

Or, you could use a bayonet extender
https://www.ebay.com/itm/306659717483

Last one, bayonet on the barrel does cause larger groups since it effects the harmonics of  the barrel, and if your looking to do a lot of  hard prod'g, then chances of bending the barrel as well.
Posted By PlaymoreMinds:

'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...

<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
Yesterday 10:59:10 AM EDT
[#4]
It's probably PoSA, have you or a buddy got another lugged gun to try it on? I've had to file AK lugs but not AR's
Yesterday 11:01:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: JellyBelly][Edited] [#5]
Quote History
Originally Posted By Dano523:
Problem is your trying to use a M9  on a 16" barrel, and it only works on a 14.5"  M4 or 20" barrel that puts the FS in the correct location for the ring on the Knife.

https://thumb.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/US-Military-M9-Bayonet.jpg/1280px-US-Military-M9-Bayonet.jpg?utm_source=en.wikipedia.org&utm_campaign=imageinfo&utm_content=thumbnail


So to achieve what your trying to do to attach the M9, will need to have the barrel shortened to 14.5", then have a longer FS permanently attached to the barrel to make the bore of the barrel from locked home, to end of FS, 16" to keep the rifle as Class 1 with back of FS if the correct position.

Or, you could use a bayonet extender
https://www.ebay.com/itm/306659717483

Last one, bayonet on the barrel does cause larger groups since it effects the harmonics of  the barrel, and if your looking to do a lot of  hard prod'g, then chances of bending the barrel as well.
View Quote

It's a 20 inch A4 barrel configuration from PSA.

This one is what's going to be wearing the stabby thing.
The “Three Stupid” Rule: “Do not go to stupid places, with stupid people, and do stupid things”

Religion is a handy device for keeping the philosophically deficient in line.
Yesterday 12:08:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: j3_][Edited] [#6]
Quote History
Originally Posted By lysanderxiii:
I don't think your bayonet is correct. The base of the pommel should butt against the bottom projection of the lug.


The diameter of the barrel support ring on the cross guard is 0.875 +0.020", the flash suppressor diameter is 0.834 +/- .010".  The crush washer diameter is 3/4 inch.

The maximum width of the bayonet lug is 0.45".  The slots on the sides are 0.185 wide, 0.086" deep, and 0.150" from the bottom of the step.

If your lug meets those dimensions, the problem lies in the bayonet.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Originally Posted By lysanderxiii:
I don't think your bayonet is correct. The base of the pommel should butt against the bottom projection of the lug.


The diameter of the barrel support ring on the cross guard is 0.875 +0.020", the flash suppressor diameter is 0.834 +/- .010".  The crush washer diameter is 3/4 inch.

The maximum width of the bayonet lug is 0.45".  The slots on the sides are 0.185 wide, 0.086" deep, and 0.150" from the bottom of the step.

If your lug meets those dimensions, the problem lies in the bayonet.

There is a reason I said
some crush washers
 Some of the aftermarket crush washers used for the larger 5/8-24 threads flare out wider than the hole in the hilt. Hole goes over the flash hider but would get stopped by the crush washer if you tried to go past it. Not that it should matter anyway because the original post said it was a 20" barrel.
Yesterday 6:42:07 PM EDT
[#7]
I got it resolved!
Attached File


Apparently it just needed a little persuasion.
Attached File


As an added benefit it even comes off after installation. There was probably a burr somewhere I couldn't see and just using the latching mechanism a few times will straighten it all out.
The “Three Stupid” Rule: “Do not go to stupid places, with stupid people, and do stupid things”

Religion is a handy device for keeping the philosophically deficient in line.
Yesterday 6:47:22 PM EDT
[#8]
Consulted the Bigger Hammer for an answer.
Yesterday 9:28:32 PM EDT
[#9]
Now, the questions is: will it come off?

Sign up to continue the discussion

Create a free account to share your thoughts, follow topics, and connect with the AR15.COM community.

Already a member? Sign In

AR Sponsor