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Atrius G lever (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 3/25/2026 12:27:38 AM EDT
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I received an email today that atrius is taking orders for a geissele compatible frt starting tomorrow. |
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Originally Posted By raverill: No SS cuts needed on trigger? Wonder how the reliability will be Shouldn't be one needed. It's essentially the same design as the Cornfire, which can already work with a Geissele. Reliability once tuned is as good as a semi auto. Durability... remains to be seen. Should be thousands of rounds. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Cornfire, which can already work with a Geissele.. Think you should add an asterisk there buddy.  In the fine print- *not all G$ will work, G2$ are problematic, ssa’s seem to but not all. Pretty much you may need to grind your trigger if you have a 2 stage Geissele. On a side note I did learn that dudes who ground down their G$ too much for the ARC *may be able to remove material from the disco to make it match up. I’ve never tried it but it seems to make sense. It’s on their website when they tell you you’re gonna have to  grind that 330 dollar ssaex
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Originally Posted By HKH: Think you should add an asterisk there buddy. In the fine print- *not all G$ will work, G2$ are problematic, ssa’s seem to but not all. Pretty much you may need to grind your trigger if you have a 2 stage Geissele. On a side note I did learn that dudes who ground down their G$ too much for the ARC *may be able to remove material from the disco to make it match up. I’ve never tried it but it seems to make sense. It’s on their website when they tell you you’re gonna have to grind that 330 dollar ssaexOriginally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Cornfire, which can already work with a Geissele.. Think you should add an asterisk there buddy. In the fine print- *not all G$ will work, G2$ are problematic, ssa’s seem to but not all. Pretty much you may need to grind your trigger if you have a 2 stage Geissele. On a side note I did learn that dudes who ground down their G$ too much for the ARC *may be able to remove material from the disco to make it match up. I’ve never tried it but it seems to make sense. It’s on their website when they tell you you’re gonna have to grind that 330 dollar ssaexI intentionally said that it can work, not that it necessarily does. I've had mixed results myself, but it's an easy modification to get working. |
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Originally Posted By BandaRides: There is a disclaimer. They only list it working on three models: SSA, SSA-E, and G2S. X-Series with Lightning Bow are NOT compatible, the trigger bars are too thick or too tall to work. Yep, my curiosity wanted to buy one just 'cause. Then, they excluded the trigger my Cornfire was build around. So, monies stay in my pocket. Got one lower left to build and I'm holding a Larue that wants a home. Since they excluded my SSAeX, I don't know that it'll save me any effort. |
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Originally Posted By cryo_tech: 90% of my AR's have a G2s in them. Is this reliable long term? I have not read any accounts of someone breaking an Atrius or Cornfire that passed the "Press hammer back, swing trip" test. You put the selector in FRT mode, you press the hammer back/down, and you swing the trip lever through its fore and aft arc. You should encounter no binding. If it binds, it can break during firing because you're trapping it between a rock and a hard place. There are ways to fix it if it does bind. There is speculation as to whether you will eventually wear out the trigger tail, because each round fired slides the cam against the top of the trigger tail. Will this eventually wear it out? Too soon to tell. I have not seen a verified report of this happening. |
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| I have 4 ARCs, 3 do this only 1 passes the bind test. Sent in working one and failing one with a complete paper on what I see and they could not replicate and don’t seem to think that’s an issue so not sure. Waiting to hear back from ASD (they still have both my kits I sent) and I would honestly either like a refund for the 3 that I’m not happy with OR they tell me in writing that pressing the hammer down and rotating the letter back in ARC mode should bind. So far not terribly happy with support. Ended up sending them a video of me performing the test, and a SS bind test from YouTube. Not sure if they aren’t aware of that or what but yea 3 of my ARCs will not rotate back to the pin when hammer is pressed. |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: I have 4 ARCs, 3 do this only 1 passes the bind test. Sent in working one and failing one with a complete paper on what I see and they could not replicate and don’t seem to think that’s an issue so not sure. Waiting to hear back from ASD (they still have both my kits I sent) and I would honestly either like a refund for the 3 that I’m not happy with OR they tell me in writing that pressing the hammer down and rotating the letter back in ARC mode should bind. So far not terribly happy with support. Ended up sending them a video of me performing the test, and a SS bind test from YouTube. Not sure if they aren’t aware of that or what but yea 3 of my ARCs will not rotate back to the pin when hammer is pressed. What do they do when firing? I have a SS in a Lee lower on an MP5k clone that will not function in frt mode during dry fire. Acts like it is semi only. Load a mag and off it goes in semi and frt. PFM I guess. My Atrius dry fired great ony 12.5 5.56 build, H3 buffer, no binding when holding the hammer and all that, took material off the upper. Yeah, nothing's gonna stop me now! 3 mags later the lever is broken. (Atrius was great in sending me a new lever) |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: I have 4 ARCs, 3 do this only 1 passes the bind test. Sent in working one and failing one with a complete paper on what I see and they could not replicate and don’t seem to think that’s an issue so not sure. Waiting to hear back from ASD (they still have both my kits I sent) and I would honestly either like a refund for the 3 that I’m not happy with OR they tell me in writing that pressing the hammer down and rotating the letter back in ARC mode should bind. So far not terribly happy with support. Ended up sending them a video of me performing the test, and a SS bind test from YouTube. Not sure if they aren’t aware of that or what but yea 3 of my ARCs will not rotate back to the pin when hammer is pressed. ARCs can have resistance and still not break, I have seen 1 lever break with ARC and it was in a lee sporting lower out of the 10s of thousands we have shipped. The lever is designed to handle the MPX and G3 recoil impulse any sort of resistance just doesn't matter with arc. At this point you would see reports of broken levers all over the place if that resistance was a issue. I can have them return and refund if that's something you want just send me a DM with your order number and ill have them set it up. Or you can screenshot this and if you manage to break it somehow i will have them replace / return and fully refund anything that's broke. |
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Originally Posted By s3igu2: ARCs can have resistance and still not break, I have seen 1 lever break with ARC and it was in a lee sporting lower out of the 10s of thousands we have shipped. The lever is designed to handle the MPX and G3 recoil impulse any sort of resistance just doesn't matter with arc. At this point you would see reports of broken levers all over the place if that resistance was a issue. I can have them return and refund if that's something you want just send me a DM with your order number and ill have them set it up. Or you can screenshot this and if you manage to break it somehow i will have them replace / return and fully refund anything that's broke. Thanks, that’s good to know! I’ll just have them send them back then if it’s expected. I was used to atrius/super safety where you don’t want ANY binding when hammer is fully depressed or you risk a bad day. Appreciate it! |
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It arrived today. I installed it with a bone stock SSA, with no modifications at all, in an Aero lower. The trigger previously had a Cornfire in it, using an AS Designs lever blocker, so I just left that in for the initial install. Interestingly, semi auto mode did not function at all, but FRT mode did. So I took out the ASD lever blocker, and installed the included Atrius lever blocker, and now it functions. For dry fire, anyhow. I'll test it out on Monday.  " /> " /> " />
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Originally Posted By Adidas02: I installed my G Lever on a SSP trigger, and so far it function checks perfectly. I need to get some actual rounds through it, but it's not looking like I need the blocker yet. Hopefully I'm good to go at this point as everything SEEMS proper. You will need a blocker. I see Atrius supplied it with the G lever. Install it or risk getting the Atrius lever caught under your hammer. |
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I decided to take a stoning wheel to my Geissele tail in order to eliminate the "hard wall" trigger pull. I took a small amount off, and now it's back to a standard G trigger pull, without the awkward hard pull. Also, if any of you are having problems with the trigger not releasing, check the spring in the Atrius and make sure it hasn't been pinched out of shape. |
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Originally Posted By JohnnyUtah427: A friend of mine received his - G lever Atrius, and it won't release the hammer in semi or third position. I just received mine, but haven't had a chance to install it. Curious if anyone else is running into this issue? I had the same issue with any lower with a m16 pocket... but works on my AAC lowers... When in semi, hold the hammer down, pull the trigger, I can feel the release but doesn't let the hammer drop. |
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Originally Posted By nj0ywatch1np0rn: I had the same issue with any lower with a m16 pocket... but works on my AAC lowers... When in semi, hold the hammer down, pull the trigger, I can feel the release but doesn't let the hammer drop. So it works in your AAC lower? Do you know what the difference is in the AAC lower? |
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had a few issues with mine on day one - hammer wouldn't reliably drop in semi, 3rd position was very intermittent. When hammer did drop the second stage of the trigger felt squishy For reference: Geissele Lower SSA-E H2 buffer Looking at things closely i suspect what was happening was the supplied spring was working its way between the selector and the trigger bar, combined with a little bit of tolerance stacking on the selector itself. What got mine smoothly passing a bench function test was the following: 1 - Take a stone to the flats of the selector and work it down to the diameter of the selector shaft. On mine it wasn't much, didn't even take off all the finish just flattened everything out and got it level. Attached File 2 - Changed out the spring. The spring included from Atrius is McMaster-Carr PN 9657K619. The inside diameter of the spring is spec'd at .204", which seems to be way too much play on a shaft diameter of about .156" or so. My suspicion is that much play, with that small of a wire diameter (.018") was allowing the spring to press into the space between the selector and trigger bar as there is no mechanical retention of the spring on the right side of the selector. I ordered 4 different springs with inner diameters closer to shaft OD, with similar spring rates. PN 9657K614 seems to be the winner on the bench so far. Same length, smaller ID, slightly lower spring rate. Attached File Function test on the bench feels like a normal SSA-E in semi, and cycling the action via charging handle in the 3rd position results on reliable hammer drop and no binding. Planning on a live fire test this weekend to verify. |
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Originally Posted By JohnnyUtah427: ^ great write up and troubleshooting….but that is just a lot of trouble for something that should work right out the box. Not too much trouble as far as the quick stoning of the selector - hell they even say some fitment may be required. The spring though is the frustrating part. ELittlefield showed the issue great in his 3rd pic if you look closely at the spring and how it's displacing off the central shaft and onto the camming surface of the selector. Originally i just crimped down the last bit of spring on that end to get it to grab onto the selector shaft. Worked pretty good but i figured that there was a better option. |
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Originally Posted By cryo_tech: So do these work out of the box or? On atrius you just need to know how to function test and you’re golden. You may need to take a hair off the trigger shelf in the case of Larue or X Geissele but just go very slow. Or you might not. Main thing, make sure there is no binding when you move the lever to the rear while in FRT mode and the hammer pressed down. If there is binding take a pass on the trigger shelf, like a marker amount and test. Go to far and congrats you can fire in safe! Goal is the same trigger feel as stock, crisp etc. every gun/trigger will be slightly different no matter what they say, the only true drop in is ASD ARC with a super safe cut which is actually decently standard. |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: Why are you selling it? I’ve never had an issue with mine…every FRT requires tuning, that’s never going to change. A lot of things going on when you’re going fast. If you want a true drop in, you can get a registered sear for 60k! I have several of the original Atrius using ALG triggers…complete drop in and works with no issues. I thought the G lever version would be the same. Rather just let it go. |
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Originally Posted By JohnnyUtah427: I have several of the original Atrius using ALG triggers…complete drop in and works with no issues. I thought the G lever version would be the same. Rather just let it go. How much you want brocephus Pm me As an aside ar15discounts has the Ambi G$ lever for 199.99 in case any wants it at that price |
 The G Lever Is Here |
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I got one installed yesterday for my SSA E. The semi auto trigger pull is now super heavy, it almost feels like a dead trigger and will only fire if you squeeze it super hard. It does work fine in position 3 but I had really wanted to retain my sweet G$ trigger pull. I’m not super excited to do any grinding on my trigger. Sounds like I am not the only one encountering this issue… |
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Originally Posted By Thurman_Murman_74: I got one installed yesterday for my SSA E. The semi auto trigger pull is now super heavy, it almost feels like a dead trigger and will only fire if you squeeze it super hard. It does work fine in position 3 but I had really wanted to retain my sweet G$ trigger pull. I’m not super excited to do any grinding on my trigger. Sounds like I am not the only one encountering this issue… Similar story for me. It really is a simple fix if you take your time and check often, though I’m certainly not trying to carry water for Atrius. It should work out of the box. |
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| My G lever went into FRT mode on semi today. In a 20 round mag, I shot about 10 in semi, and the rest in 4, 3, and a 2 round burst. I’ll tear it down and investigate further. |
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This spring is out of whack. I'm going to try the improved Cornfire one. I suppose a weak spring force may have allowed the lever to slide over into FRT position.  " />
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It was not preached to the crowd,
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
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Atrius G lever (Page 1 of 2)
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