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Posted: 7/15/2015 3:58:31 PM EDT
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I am looking for more information to see if anyone has modded your stock trigger ?? The reason I ask cause I was working on polishing my trigger and its coming along well .. But I keep seeing company's making all types of triggers and was wondering if someone took say a stock and modded it to be a low mass trigger from say Jp or added bearing or made custom polished pins or any other hop up's???
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Be careful with your polishing AR triggers they are only surface hardened. I stopped really messing with the standard LPK triggers, once you shoot an aftermarket trigger you wont want to waste your time on it. The most I'll do now is put a tiny amount of lapping compound on the sear edge and "dry fire", controlling the hammer, till it "wears in" same as if you went to the range or dry fired it a few hundred times while watching TV....except this only takes a minute or two instead of an hour or so. |
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Is there any way I could get just stock trigger assembly's to practice on and blue print for really cheap or free ??
Also I am not worried about the surface harding cause I have a full machine shop I can work in and can full harden or surface harden if felt necessary.. Quoted:
Why when there are so many options? After you screw up your stock trigger you can shop for one that will work and last. I am talking about all the different improvements to the stock designs to better enhance the functionalable and performance .. Oh thanks for the negativity on skills here ... Sorry don't remove I report on accident.. |
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Chopped hammer, JP springs, lapped the mating surfaces. This is an early hammer job, but you can get the idea. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3902/15091657556_7c0fd57bb1_b.jpg What was the finally result and would you do it again ?? |
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Absolutely, I've done 5 so far.
Here's a thread on it: DYI trigger job Instead of the Joe Bob's pistol grip screw replacement, you can use a 3/4" long cap screw with 1/4-28 threads and a 1/4" set screw 1/4-28. You'll save even more. The way I look at it, if I screw up I'll buy a RRA 2 stage to replace it... To make sure the sear engagement is solid, I put the safety on, pull the trigger hard and bang the side of the receiver with my hand. I haven't over done one yet to where it was unsafe. |
I have done many home trigger jobs over many years, including 5 or 6 AR's. How can I not do them? I'm able to, so I do. Some have turned out fantastic, most turned out good, some barely better than stock, and a big fail--an SKS that doubled 'n shit. Had to find parts 
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I am sure many have done a semi-successful DIY trigger job for $30 but it is not worth the hassle when done wrong. That is just my opinion. ALG triggers are a good mil spec replacement for not much money and are awesome triggers for the money This. There are a few YT instructional videos but, the liability is surely not worth the potential trouble or hazard. Decent triggers are cheap. |
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From personal experience bobbing the tail on the hammer will stop light primer strikes IF you've switched to all yellow springs. Lower mass = more velocity which may be necessary for you if you're removing power by switching to lighter springs. If you're using full power springs I wouldn't bother with it and it might actually be detrimental. I could imagine that pierced primers might result on softer primers if you end up whacking the crap out of the pin with a low mass hammer and full power springs.
In the end though for precision I went with a Giessle which made sub MOA groups more consistent for me personally. I could do them with a stock LPK but it required a lot more concentration / 'effort' on my part. A yellow set of springs, bobbed hammer (ALG) gave me about a 3.5# trigger pull but it didn't get rid of creep. With a 2 stage trigger I know exactly when it's going to break so I can concentrate on other fundamentals. As others have said, those mating surfaces have an extremely thin hardening layer on them. Lap through that and you're into soft metal which will wear pretty fast resulting in a trigger assembly that won't lock up. |
| I did the diy jobs on two of my rifles. Not hard and decent results. The problem is that people usually over do it on the set screw , or get light strikes after clipping and bending the springs. And of course, over polishing. The diy job done improperly can render the safety inoperable, fail to reset, double fires, and on and on. A trigger job used to be the standard because a stock trigger was all you had. But with ar's in the 21rst century there are so many aftermarket options available why not use them? I know it's only money, and ar's are $100 bill shredders. But it's so worth it. I currently use the cmc flat 3.5 for $150 . Glad I did. I buy sell trade a lot and personally would rather purchase a used built rifle with a stock unmolested trigger than one with a home grown trigger job. |
| I already have a stock and I need to pick up a couple more for dirt cheap or free and play with polishing them and trying different stuff with a Trigger test jig ...I am not looking for a ultra high performance trigger but more or less just to improve the stock design .. My plan was for the first trigger was to polish the tooling marks on the stock trigger and leave it alone( Also address as to if the trigger need to be rehardened after polish) .. The second trigger ,I was going into a polish like on the first trigger but this time lighten the hammer and using the JP Low mass springs ..Do you have any other i deas or suggestions or thoughts so far ?? |
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Here's another affordable alternative. It's no Geissele but it's a damn fine trigger for the price. Takes all the guess work out of tuning your own Mil-spec trigger as well.
Enhanced Nickel Teflon Trigger Assembly |
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The design originated over 50 years ago.. you think you're gonna "fix" it? (serious question) Quoted:
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more or less just to improve the stock design The design originated over 50 years ago.. you think you're gonna "fix" it? (serious question) It's not a matter of fixing the original design but improving the original like many other companies have too.. I don't understand why people keep saying your saying your facing trouble by modding the trigger at all ..Cause there are several companies who take the original trigger and polish it and then sell it back to you for a profit and some people swear by the this same company ..I know the risks here in what I am doing and fully understand what can happen .. But I am using a fine grit hone to smooth the tooling marks cause with normal use you are doing the same hence why there is polished spot on the trigger group from wear.. |
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It's not a matter of fixing the original design but improving the original like many other companies have too.. I don't understand why people keep saying your saying your facing trouble by modding the trigger at all ..Cause there are several companies who take the original trigger and polish it and then sell it back to you for a profit and some people swear by the this same company ..I know the risks here in what I am doing and fully understand what can happen .. But I am using a fine grit hone to smooth the tooling marks cause with normal use you are doing the same hence why there is polished spot on the trigger group from wear.. Quoted:
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Quoted:
more or less just to improve the stock design The design originated over 50 years ago.. you think you're gonna "fix" it? (serious question) It's not a matter of fixing the original design but improving the original like many other companies have too.. I don't understand why people keep saying your saying your facing trouble by modding the trigger at all ..Cause there are several companies who take the original trigger and polish it and then sell it back to you for a profit and some people swear by the this same company ..I know the risks here in what I am doing and fully understand what can happen .. But I am using a fine grit hone to smooth the tooling marks cause with normal use you are doing the same hence why there is polished spot on the trigger group from wear.. Just Google....Bill Springfield Trigger Problems After reading about a few dozen of his "trigger jobs" and you still want to finger fuck it. Well you were warned. 
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i just installed a SS 3.5 lb drop in trigger from Velocity triggers. got awesome set screws so theres no weird wiggles. clean crisp break. barely any take up virtually no discernable creep and a very tactile reset.
mil discoutn came out to 115 shipped. i think it runs about 130 or so shipped otherwise. also just in case I forget, it dents primers with AUTHORITY even those super hard NATO ones. |
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