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Suppressed AK Thread (Page 9 of 9)
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I got back into AK's earlier this year and have been thru the ringer a little bit when it comes to suppressing them. For anyone that it may help out, here's been my journey. Bought a Huxwrx Flow 762 Ti and then a SAM7K to run it on. An alignment rod showed a definite contact at the end of the can. Sent it out to GNI to fix, along with the Hux 24x1.5 AK mount, and my can. He squared it up but then found that when he torqued down the mount, it pulled back out of alignment due to the mount not truly being face mount. Ended up cutting it to 1/2-28 and getting a new Hux mount. Was pretty happy how it sounded. Was harsh on the ears with no ear pro, but kinda expected with the short 8.3" barrel. Next up was a Beryl in 7.62x39mm. Had the barrel threaded 1/2-28 by AoA when I bought it, ran the can and I was happy with it. Then I purchased a KUSA KP-104 from a member here on the EE. He said he ran a Hux can on it and the barrel was square. Tried using my original 24x1.5 Hux AK mount and found that it was definitely not concentric. In fact, it was even worse than my SAM7K. So that gun went to GNI, as well. But this time I sent a Griffin thread adapter to use the Hux 30 cal 5/8x24 mount that came with the Flow 762 Ti. Figured I'd save some loot not having to buy another mount. Got it back, ran the Flow 762 Ti on it, and was good with the sound. But I wasn't a big fan of how it looked with the thread adapter. A couple months went by and besides the look of the setup on the KP-104, I also didn't feel great about using the Flow 762 Ti on the short barrels, especially the SAM7K. I started eyeballing the Resilient Putnik. I really liked how it looked; can't beat the aesthetics of a copied legit Russian can. But I was also drawn to the overbore design for future AK's. I paid a lot of money to have the two guns fixed between labor and next day air shipping back and forth x2, a long with wait times, and didn't want to do it again. Also, the Putnik is said to be flow through-ish. Got the Putnik and then changed out the Hux mounts on the SAM7K and KP-104 with JMAC X37 ones. Really odd, but both guns were way out of alignment, even after getting worked on my GNI. But since the Putnik has a bore of about .400", I didn't have an issue with baffle or end strikes. And to my pleasant surprise the Putnik is quite a bit quiet than the Flow 762 Ti. It is almost twice as heavy as the Flow 762 Ti, but I don't mind it.   I recently just picked up a WBP Mini Jack in 5.56 and was interested to see if there would be any alignment issues. It's not totally concentric, but again, with the large bore of the Putnik its not a problem. I am using another JMAC X37 mount. I was also very interested to see how the Putnik would sound with 5.56. I took it out of at and was also very happy with the sound on the smaller round.  So, in summary, I've spent more money than I'd like to admit on learning lessons of suppressing AK's. I personally feel like the Putnik is the ideal can to get for AK's, when considering all things. According to some AK "experts" that I've chatted with, concentricity is almost always an issue with these guns and the large bore of the Putnik almost ensures you won't have an issue. And the icing on the cake is that it actually sounds great. Also, it is not a gassy can at all. I don't notice it being any gassier than the Flow 762 Ti, actually. I've put KNS adjustable pistons in all of my AK's, but not because it was required due to the cans. They definitely make for a softer shooting gun. I also torque all of my mounts to 35 ft/lbs and use Rocksett when attaching them to the barrel. I have never had one come loose. I've read the reports of people talking about the Putnik loosening up, but I make sure I tighten it down to the mounts with two unga-dungas and it doesn't walk on me. Just make sure you get a rubber strap wrench in case you give it 3+ unga-dungas. Don't worry about the can melting the rubber because it doesn't get to be molten lava blazing hot like some other cans. Flow 762 Ti vs Resilient Putnik |
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Zastava PAP chopped to pinned to 16 with rugged 3 port - rugged radiant on the end Attached File |
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How do you like the Putnik? I have a Rex can on my 102 right now and thinking about picking one of these up. |
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Originally Posted By cdholmes: How do you like the Putnik? I have a Rex can on my 102 right now and thinking about picking one of these up. It is really nice, and not as heavy feeling on the gun as it looks. Not using a ratchet tooth style mount to lock onto the detent like the real Zenitco Putnik (and every other AK muzzle device ever made) was pretty stupid, though. You need to strap wrench the thing on to make sure it is tight and Rocksett probably isn't a bad idea. |
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Originally Posted By Supra_MK3: It is really nice, and not as heavy feeling on the gun as it looks. Not using a ratchet tooth style mount to lock onto the detent like the real Zenitco Putnik (and every other AK muzzle device ever made) was pretty stupid, though. You need to strap wrench the thing on to make sure it is tight and Rocksett probably isn't a bad idea. Yeah I heard they may be coming out with an adapter that uses the detent. I have a JMAC hub adapter that's rocksetted on right now, so I would probably just use that. |
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Originally Posted By Supra_MK3: I was hoping to do that but it doesn't engage the detent on my Arsenal. My putnik is on a 107cr, they share the same AK-142B gas block/front site combo. Is your barrel cut longer than 12.5" and protruding past the gas block? If your barrel is cut flush with the AK-142B, it should mount with a small gap like on mine it. Pic thread: 
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I’ve been looking at the putnik for a bit, want to pull the trigger, but I don’t want to depend on them planning on releasing an adapter to engage the detent. I feel like the dudes who made it are smarter than myself, but it seems really odd to not have some way to engage it when Zenitco did it. I’m a big fan of QD as much as possible, but I like the form factor of the putnik over the wolverine. I do like the idea of cutting a notch in the mount, though 
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: YHM R9 with a J Mac hub adapter. Does really well hushing the 12.5” barrel. https://i.postimg.cc/jSzkpdvz/IMG-3136.jpg Is the r9 rated for 7.62 out of a barrel that short? |
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Originally Posted By THATS-A-BINGO: Is the r9 rated for 7.62 out of a barrel that short? IIRC, it’s good to 10” with .300BO. They claim 16” for .308, 5.56 and x39. Supersonic .300BO is pretty close to x39. I’ve put some 5.56 out of an 11.5” & 15” .308 and haven’t found any signs of degradation in the blast baffle. It’s not had any mag dumps except for 9mm through the subguns. It’s a great can for the money! |
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Hopefully joining the suppressed AK club soon. I now have a face-mount 14x1 LH Radical Defense KFM taper mount en route to me, and a matching RD CS-3 low back pressure 7.62 K-can to use with it. We are going to see both how concentric of a thread Molot ended up cutting on my Vepr, and just how "low back pressure" the CS-3 really is. If I can just screw everything onto the rifle and run it without issue with the factory gassing and muzzle threads, I will be a very happy camper. Also, given I'm about to stick ~18 oz of metal to end of an already super front heavy rifle, I'm expecting the balance to be terrible. So much so I've started looking into getting an extra heavy stock to help weight distribution - I'm willing to have a heavier rifle if it balances well. For now though, I might try adding weight to my current plastic stock to see how it works. |
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Is JMac the only guy making Keymo mounts for AK threads? Is anyone else in the game? It also doesn't look like anyone makes a Xeno mount for AKs...? So to circle back to this - I mounted a JMac Keymo mount on my PSA 300blk Krink, and finally got it to the range today - zero problems, aligned just fine, I only put 7 or 8 rounds of Supers through it suppressed because I just didn't bring that many with me  And I think a mag and a half of subs. Unsuppressed, I think I put like 5 of each through it just to make sure it worked (the muzzle device/brake works ok with supers, and is negligible with subs...as I think anyone would expect)I'm glad I didn't blindly SBR the thing because I had a bunch of fail to feeds (think 3 point jam on 1911s) with the subs, both with the PSA mags and Unity mags. I didn't shoot enough supers to see if it would happen with those as well, but with subs it was happening every 4-5 rounds on the outside, sometimes back to back. This was mainly suppressed, as I really didn't shoot a bunch without a can on, before I mounted my Sandman-L and got to testing suppressed. When it worked though, it was a hoot  
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By 8Thousand: Hopefully joining the suppressed AK club soon. I now have a face-mount 14x1 LH Radical Defense KFM taper mount en route to me, and a matching RD CS-3 low back pressure 7.62 K-can to use with it. We are going to see both how concentric of a thread Molot ended up cutting on my Vepr, and just how "low back pressure" the CS-3 really is. If I can just screw everything onto the rifle and run it without issue with the factory gassing and muzzle threads, I will be a very happy camper. Update to the above... initial attempt did not go well. Even with a facemount muzzle device, my Geissele alignment rod is making serious contact with the end of the suppressor. It's subtle, but I can visually see a small angle on the muzzle face that seems to perfectly match the misalignment of my suppressor.  So, now what? I've read about people using 90 degree muzzle facing tools to true up AK muzzle faces, and apparently many are successful. The tool setup for that appears to be in the $70-$120 range. Is this worth trying myself, or should I just bite the bullet and seek out a reputable smith instead? |
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Originally Posted By 8Thousand: So, now what? I've read about people using 90 degree muzzle facing tools to true up AK muzzle faces, and apparently many are successful. The tool setup for that appears to be in the $70-$120 range. Is this worth trying myself, or should I just bite the bullet and seek out a reputable smith instead? Buy the tool and try the DIY. If it doesn’t work, you can sell the tool and not be out much. If it works, you can still sell the tool or keep it and start doing other stuff yourself. I do my own work because I never liked the idea of dropping off or shipping out firearms and being subject to someone else’s schedule. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Buy the tool and try the DIY. If it doesn’t work, you can sell the tool and not be out much. If it works, you can still sell the tool or keep it and start doing other stuff yourself. I do my own work because I never liked the idea of dropping off or shipping out firearms and being subject to someone else’s schedule. Thanks for the advice, you have a lot of good points. I think if this wasn't an all-original (or at least as original as it can be with stupid US import laws) Russian rifle, I'd almost certainly try the DIY route, but with the import situation being what it is currently, TBH it's sometimes hard for me to silence the little voice in my head yelling "It's a collectable now! It's valuable! It deserves to go to a good AK smith!". And yes, I know, it's not in the proper Kalashnikov spirit to not still just treat it like the utilitarian tool it is regardless of that.  NGL, I've sometimes toyed with the idea of purchasing a PSAK just so I can have an AK I can wantonly abuse like an AK should be, without ever having to possibly feel bad about it.
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Suppressed AK Thread (Page 9 of 9)
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