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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 6/1/2003 7:36:38 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/1/2003 7:43:41 PM EST by drjarhead]
Kudos to Campybob who sent this to me last year when I did mine. The instructions that come with it are only useful after you've done it once and then it all makes sense!!!
Feel free to tack this for everyone if you would.

Look at the package instructions to get some idea first:

"its pretty easy and self-evident really (maybe for you!). For more accurate release , back the disconnector setscrew out a little at a time(1/2 turn or so) to get it where you are comfortable with safety and pressure. I set the overtravel screw next(front of trigger). You only want the trigger to travel a very little bit past the hammer release point.

The pre-travel(take-up) is the trickiest. for a safe firearm, not only does the pressure need to be at least 2 1/2 lbs (3 lbs he says now), there has to be an adequate amount of take up travel. This just takes a little experimentation. I always bang the rifle around(particularly banging the buttplate against the floor) to check accidental hammer release.

After all adjustments are where you want them, put a drop or two of loctite on the screws and file the safety lever to clear the trigger just enough to engage, but no more than is absolutely necessary."

You can also stake the set screws once you get it right. That'd be my advice on the final part. However, I haven't done that yet. I didn't really move the screws much and they are still pretty tight for now with the orig loctite.
Don't try to make major adjustments is my advice. It should be pretty damn close and the more you screw up the settings the harder it is to figure out where you're at.
I think they need to make the instructions a little better but like I said, if you've done it before then they make sense.

Thanks Bob.

Link Posted: 6/2/2003 3:28:37 AM EST
Link Posted: 6/3/2003 6:34:19 AM EST
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