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Posted: 12/26/2024 4:21:34 PM EDT
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How does one remove the little spring loaded muzzle device retaining pin that locks in the muzzle device? I got a JMac facemount jobbie that snugs in fine but when checking concentricity, it’s ever so slightly biased away from where the retaining pin presses against the mount. So I’d like to remove it… but it looks like a blind pin? Either that or it’s hidden behind the gas tube…which means I need to figure out how to remove the bottom hand guard and the gas tube, or remove the gas block itself? |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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The detent pin should have a portion machine out (the middle portion of the detent pin) where the front sight base front retaining pin goes through to keep the detent pin and spring from being lost when removing the muzzle device. That would mean you'd need to tap the front sight base front retaining pin out most of the way to get the detent pin and spring out.
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Originally Posted By Marinex0331: The detent pin should have a portion machine out (the middle portion of the detent pin) where the front sight base front retaining pin goes through to keep the detent pin and spring from being lost when removing the muzzle device. That would mean you'd need to tap the front sight base front retaining pin out most of the way to get the detent pin and spring out. Do you have a PSA 300blk Krink? It's not like a normal Krink, M92, or AK... Edit - your photo is not applicable in this case, at all, sadly. |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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WEll, the more I look at it, the more it looks like I'll need to do at least one of two things - either undo the two grub screws that seem to hold in the front handguard retainer, so I can remove the handguard and get at the "main" gas block under that; maybe that one will be easy to loosen up and push back so I can remove the gas tube and get at the pin that holds in the detent that way, OR drive out the two pins holding in the "secondary" gas block/front sight block and knock that off the front, which should also open up the area under the front sight and allow me access to the pin that way... Neither way seems really good, though...kind of why I'm hoping PSA responds with a decent how-to here 
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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I've never touched the Krinks. My brother said it's probably the same as his PAP, and that there's a spot weld at the top center of the thread protector that you need to cut, and then remove the thread protector. You then need to drive out the small spring pin on the right side, where the detent pin is located. Then said he had to get back to work and hung up on me. Do you have a couple of pics you could post? |
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Originally Posted By Marinex0331: I've never touched the Krinks. My brother said it's probably the same as his PAP, and that there's a spot weld at the top center of the thread protector that you need to cut, and then remove the thread protector. You then need to drive out the small spring pin on the right side, where the detent pin is located. Then said he had to get back to work and hung up on me. Do you have a couple of pics you could post? Absolutely nothing like an M92 PAP  I specifically mentioned it above. This has two different gas systems. Well, at least, one feeds into the other. PSA 300 Blackout Krink is here! Fast forward to 12:21 for a general gist of the differences as he disassmbles it, or  Here Krink - 300 Blackout | Soviet Arms at 32 seconds you can see where in the gas block the pin hole is, but what you can't see is the back side of that hole is blocked by the gas tube. It's effectively a blind hole with that gas tube in, and I don't see an easy way of getting it out. There's a reason I was VERY specific about the model and caliber of gun here.. |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Marinex0331: Just trying to help. Good luck. I'm out. I appreciate it, I really do This thing is just such a different bird that it'll really only be PSA or someone else who has no interest in SBRing theirs and has ripped it apart already, who'll be the only ones who can really help me If you look at Mac's video at 13:13 you can get a good still shot of how it's set up, and you can see the detent pin on the gas block. At like 13:20 he goes back and shows how the other side of the gas block looks, kind of - and you can see where the AR gas tube runs into the AK gas block, and it's right where that detent pin's exit would be Honestly the more I'm looking at it, the more it seems like the only way to get at it would be from knocking out the two bottom pins from the front sight block and pushing that off...the pins seem tapered like an AR's gas block pins so that's nice at least. Honestly maybe this just isn't worth it...maybe I should just buy a Wolverine and not worry about it 
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If it's a face mount device the pin shouldn't have any real effect on it if it's actually torqued to the muzzle. But if the .300 BO model hasn't changed from this pic, you drive out the circled pin. Usually from the opposite end of the one pictured. In which case you would likely need to undo the AR gas block and slide it back to move the AR gas tube out of the way.
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AK building addict in recovery. Fell off the wagon.
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Originally Posted By AEnemaBay: If it's a face mount device the pin shouldn't have any real effect on it if it's actually torqued to the muzzle. But if the .300 BO model hasn't changed from this pic, you drive out the circled pin. Usually from the opposite end of the one pictured. In which case you would likely need to undo the AR gas block and slide it back to move the AR gas tube out of the way. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/115352/300BO_AKSU_FSB_Pin-3419112.jpg Yeah - ok, the two things I really didn't want to do were undo the two grub screws to remove the lower handguard, and then dislodge the AR gas block I was hoping there was an easier way...oh well.And conceptually you're right - the facemount thing shouldn't be really altered by the plunger pressing on it...it's just pretty weird that the facemount is biased exactly where the plunger presses on it. The alignment rod seats down with absolutely no contact anywhere, but it's ever so slightly off center from the bore; tight right where the plunger's pressing on the muzzle device. It's not really off alignment enough for me to worry about it; I'd do a full send regardless. I just wanted to make sure that it wasn't the plunger causing it
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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For what little it's worth - A) when trying to torque down a facemount muzzle device on one of these things (or removing it), putting the front sight block as a whole into the vice and cinching down on that is the best way to get leverage without risking of twisting the rest of the gun or any parts on it (like the pistol grip, etc) - since it torques on it anyway, it's the safest way to fly B) it helps to not have a crooked alignment rod I got it torqued back on, checked alignment...it was still pretty tight space-wise where the plunger was pushing on the muzzle device. For shiggles I flipped the rod around and tried from the other side...would you look at that; perfectly centered. So maybe the drill rod I'd been using got a little tweaked at some point...so maybe it's just not a problem at all in the first place.I'll find out in a couple of weeks when my range re-opens and I can test it out... |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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@palmettostatearmory Josiah, thanks for having one of the support guys reach out to me - I chatted with him on the phone for a bit...he confirmed that if I wanted to knock out that pin, I would have to undo the two grub screws holding the front handguard retainer in place, pop the lower handguard out, undo the screw holding on the shaved gas block and push that back enough to get access to the other side of the pin that holds in the detent/spring. Thanks guys! |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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