Posted: 12/15/2025 6:24:43 PM EDT
|
I've reloaded 308 before but not in a precision loading manner. In my first attempt to create a process, I methodically prepped 500 once fired LC cases obtained from the same source. FL sized w/ Forester die, reamed out the primer pocket crimp, uniformed primer pocket depth, uniformed flash hole, Wilson trimmed OOL and chamfered ID/OD of the mouth. The good part is the vast majority of the 500 cases are same head stamp with a nominal weigh of 180grwithin a +/-1gr range. The maybe 30 were outside this range were separated out. The downside is these were once fired LC and from appears to be from a belt fed MG. I'm thinking the cases need to be fired a few times to get the imperfections pressed out of the walls of the cases. Some of the extractor rims don't smoothly fit in the shell holder which makes me think a MG was used to extract the case from the weapon. After seating a SMK using a Forster ultra micrometer die, the seating depths were very tight. Under +/- 0.001 variation which made me think I was on the right path. Then ran them through my sinclair concentricity gauge... most were awful, worst I think I've ever measured of any caliber round I've loaded. I'm guessing it's the cases being out of round that's causing it. I can see the walls of the cases have slight indentations just under the shoulder where one of the supports on the concentricity gauge rides. I've been able to get very good concentric bullet seating with 223 and 6.8spc loads so it leads me to think the wall of the cases are imperfect. My plan is to shoot the 308 ladders already loaded and reload the cases, then measure runout to make sure it improves. In the mean time, I'm ready to up my precision reloading game, Both in tools and processes. I didn't use a mandrel to expand the necks and that's probably the next step to add in my case prep process. I used a Forster FL sizing die with the sizing button it comes with. For my 308 bolt gun I'll be using virgin Lapua cases and expect much better concentricity. Before going there, I'm loading these LC cases for an AR10 as I learn about precision loading then plan to apply the knowledge to loading for the bolt gun. My first question... is a rock chucker worthy of expanding the necks with a mandrel or should I get a dedicated mandrel/seating press for precision loading? Is there a more appropriate press I should consider using? I don't know how accurate the AR10 is capable of yet. Not expecting very much as it's an armalite Def10. Just changed out the handguard to a free float and found the barrel nut was only hand tight from the factory.  It's only been to the range once so far and that was several years ago. |
|
The rock chucker will work fine if everything else is good..I do all prep work on my go to ELR cartridge(300rum) on a rock chucker, never been an issue, I seat bullets with the RCBS summit press, not because it is better than the chucker, but because I use a Forrester sleeved micrometer seater and with the already long rum case I cannot seat bullets on the rock chucker and get them out of the press...I do not use any inner sizing ball when sizing brass, I use Redding competition sleeved micrometer bushing die for neck sizing and a separate body die for setting the shoulder back..Combining both is fine, I just like the ability to focus on one thing at a time, which this does...All your brass should come out of the chamber basically perfectly concentric if its a decent barrel chambered by a competent smith..I've always found the inner die part tends to pull necks out of square when being pulled out of the case while resizing...And yes I use a Sinclair mandrel die to set neck tension.... Forrester sleeved seating die, along with Redding sleeved neck bushing die and Redding body die... Attached File The difference in presses.... Attached File Attached File |
|
Appreciate your input! I'll stick with the RC and save some $$$ there. I get what your saying about focusing on one case sizing step at a time. I was thinking about having a 308 Forster FL sizing die neck honed larger to reduce working the brass so much A separate neck bushing die and body die makes more sense now you mention it. Found the dies: Redding Competition Bushing Neck die. #56155 for 308 Win. just need to find the bushings now... Sinclair Gen 2 mandrel die # 749-011-715 ; .306" TiN 30 cal mandrel #TNTA30 REDDING 308 WINCHESTER BODY DIE - MPN:75155 Thanks again! |
|
No problem, on the bushings for the neck die you may need 3-6 of them, all depends on how consistent your brass is, sucks to need the next smaller/bigger one and its not in stock locally so you have to order it...At least measure a good sample of your brass and make sure you have the sizes needed covered..I find you normally need to size more than you think just because of brass spring back... As you can see in this pic, I have 6 neck bushings and 3 plus Sinclair mandrels just for my 300rum....I put the mandrels in a drill and spin it while sanding it with emory cloth when I want a different size than they come in, normal is 2 sizes for each caliber, I buy several of the largest so I can sand as needed to fit my needs... you can also see the Sinclair die that holds the mandrels... Attached File Also notice on the neck die, no button for the neck...I use a universal primer remover as well, I don't use the rod on the neck die for removing primers..All done in separate operations..I just find it easier to do things one at a time and depriming is done before brass gets run thru the fart and sizing is done once brass is clean...Also, I would not bother with honing a neck die, just run a bushing die so you can adjust as needed..way simpler and it will work on any brass, not just the brass that is the right thickness for how much they honed it...The bushings make honing obsolete as far as I am concerned...Also, I bump the shoulder first, neck die last..first time thru the neck die is to get it close then I trim for length and run back thru the bushing die to get just below my finished neck, brass then gets annealed and cleaned final time and then I run it under the mandrel to set finished neck size and then prime and load... |
|
Originally Posted By Hoser: Body dies are not needed for bolt guns. Maybe if you only shoot at a range and maybe only if you shoot standard rifle cartridges..I tried the neck only stuff..Fifth case shot years back stuck the case in the chamber..Not a great idea when hunting especially for bears, so now they get a small shoulder bump of .002" and zero issues since, yours may work without a full body resize but mine won't..... 
|
|
Originally Posted By Blowout: I don't know how accurate the AR10 is capable of yet. Have you actually shot your reloads? If you are doing all this reloading stuff, with no baseline of how the thing actually shoots you are wasting your energy. Probably 89% of the precision is just getting the right bullet, getting the right powder and correct charge is most of the rest. |
|
Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: No problem, on the bushings for the neck die you may need 3-6 of them, all depends on how consistent your brass is, sucks to need the next smaller/bigger one and its not in stock locally so you have to order it...At least measure a good sample of your brass and make sure you have the sizes needed covered..I find you normally need to size more than you think just because of brass spring back... As you can see in this pic, I have 6 neck bushings and 3 plus Sinclair mandrels just for my 300rum....I put the mandrels in a drill and spin it while sanding it with emory cloth when I want a different size than they come in, normal is 2 sizes for each caliber, I buy several of the largest so I can sand as needed to fit my needs... you can also see the Sinclair die that holds the mandrels... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/404934/IMG_9807_jpeg-3676917.JPG Also notice on the neck die, no button for the neck...I use a universal primer remover as well, I don't use the rod on the neck die for removing primers..All done in separate operations..I just find it easier to do things one at a time and depriming is done before brass gets run thru the fart and sizing is done once brass is clean...Also, I would not bother with honing a neck die, just run a bushing die so you can adjust as needed..way simpler and it will work on any brass, not just the brass that is the right thickness for how much they honed it...The bushings make honing obsolete as far as I am concerned...Also, I bump the shoulder first, neck die last..first time thru the neck die is to get it close then I trim for length and run back thru the bushing die to get just below my finished neck, brass then gets annealed and cleaned final time and then I run it under the mandrel to set finished neck size and then prime and load... I'll order a .307 and .306 non-TiN coated mandrels to start with and see how they work out. TiN coating would be a real pita if I have to reduce the OD any. Got it, no button expander... mandrel takes it's place. I'm decapping all my brass with a Lee universal decapping die on the APP before wet tumbling. Then all rifle cases get annealed. I'm guessing on some things here so please correct where I'm off: Sizing process 1. body sizing die 2. bump the shoulder 3. neck size to reduce diameter 0.004" under bullet diameter? 4. trim overall length 5. bump the neck again to get 0.003" under bullet diameter? 6. Anneal second time ( do you use 750F as an end point or a different temp?) 7. Clean cases 8. mandrel size to get 0.002" neck tension 9. prime, charge case and seat bullet Thanks again 
|
|
Originally Posted By Blowout: Since I'm experimenting with the LC cases before going to the more consistent Lapua, I'll order several bushings. I also have brass from FGMM and other ammo I'll likely be messing with later on so they shouldn't go to waste. Do you happen to know if the redding S type die bushings fit in the Competition bushing die? I'll order a .307 and .306 non-TiN coated mandrels to start with and see how they work out. TiN coating would be a real pita if I have to reduce the OD any. Got it, no button expander... mandrel takes it's place. I'm decapping all my brass with a Lee universal decapping die on the APP before wet tumbling. Then all rifle cases get annealed. I'm guessing on some things here so please correct where I'm off: Sizing process 1. body sizing die 2. bump the shoulder 3. neck size to reduce diameter 0.004" under bullet diameter? 4. trim overall length 5. bump the neck again to get 0.003" under bullet diameter? 6. Anneal second time ( do you use 750F as an end point or a different temp?) 7. Clean cases 8. mandrel size to get 0.002" neck tension 9. prime, charge case and seat bullet Thanks again Yes the "S" type will fit, I don't remember which but at least 1 other brand of bushing fits the Redding dies as well... First neck sizing should be to the diameter that fits your trimmer..I use the RCBS powered trim pro..it uses a .306" neck bushing to align the case, so my first neck sizing gets it down to .306" and after cases are trimmed they go back thru the neck die and get sized down to .305", maybe .304" if .305" does not leave enough neck tension when hit with the 3055" mandrel(I removed .0005" off an 306 mandrel to get the tension I wanted)..of course that mandrel die is after annealing....You just have to try things and see what works best for your cartridge/rifle but these are what work on mine....my go to bullet is the 230 grain Berger HT @3220fps for long range target/game use... I found this in search... Compatible Brands: Redding: The standard. RCBS: Interchangeable with Redding. Hornady: Interchangeable with Redding. L.E. Wilson (Wilson): Interchangeable with Redding. Whidden: Also fits and often preferred for less runout. S.A.C. (Short Action Customs): Highly praised by users for superior runout reduction. |
|
Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: Maybe if you only shoot at a range and maybe only if you shoot standard rifle cartridges..I tried the neck only stuff..Fifth case shot years back stuck the case in the chamber..Not a great idea when hunting especially for bears, so now they get a small shoulder bump of .002" and zero issues since, yours may work without a full body resize but mine won't..... I dont neck size. I FL resize with .001-.002 bump. Body dies dont even touch the neck. Pretty much just the shoulder and bottom of the case. |
|
Originally Posted By Hoser: I dont neck size. I FL resize with .001-.002 bump. Body dies dont even touch the neck. Pretty much just the shoulder and bottom of the case. So you think your FL resize is not moving both the body and neck? there is no difference between using a FL die and using separate body die and neck die..the only difference is each is done as a separate step...Or are you saying you don't use a bushing neck die? again, weather a normal neck die or a bushing die, one simple gives you better control over the results than the other..your statement above makes little sense when compared with your latest statement...If you FL resize, then yes you are moving the body of the case to include both the neck and shoulder its just a matter of how much the single die moves either one versus what is best for your chamber per the neck and per shoulder bump... |
|
Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: Yes the "S" type will fit, I don't remember which but at least 1 other brand of bushing fits the Redding dies as well... First neck sizing should be to the diameter that fits your trimmer..I use the RCBS powered trim pro..it uses a .306" neck bushing to align the case, so my first neck sizing gets it down to .306" and after cases are trimmed they go back thru the neck die and get sized down to .305", maybe .304" if .305" does not leave enough neck tension when hit with the 3055" mandrel(I removed .0005" off an 306 mandrel to get the tension I wanted)..of course that mandrel die is after annealing....You just have to try things and see what works best for your cartridge/rifle but these are what work on mine....my go to bullet is the 230 grain Berger HT @3220fps for long range target/game use... I found this in search... Compatible Brands: Redding: The standard. RCBS: Interchangeable with Redding. Hornady: Interchangeable with Redding. L.E. Wilson (Wilson): Interchangeable with Redding. Whidden: Also fits and often preferred for less runout. S.A.C. (Short Action Customs): Highly praised by users for superior runout reduction. I use a LE Wilson trimmer that uses a case holder instead of a pilot so it didn't even occur to me you were first neck sizing to the diameter of the trimmer pilot. Makes a lot more sense now. That 300rum really spits those 220gr out the barrel fast! Thanks for searching for compatible bushings. Whidden looks like a good option - 5 bushings .333-.337 for $98 ETA: Ordered a Redding Competition bushing die. Odd, the Brownells/Sinclair site only shows a 308 mandrel in .307". No other sizes. The body die is on backorder, but the expander die is in stock. I'll get it figured out tomorrow.... |
|
Originally Posted By Blowout: Appreciated the added detail I use a LE Wilson trimmer that uses a case holder instead of a pilot so it didn't even occur to me you were first neck sizing to the diameter of the trimmer pilot. Makes a lot more sense now. That 300rum really spits those 220gr out the barrel fast! Thanks for searching for compatible bushings. Whidden looks like a good option - 5 bushings .333-.337 for $98 Lol, yeah she is a good cartridge if you can make use of it .. I do load long..SAAMI oil spec is 3.6" and I load just shy of 4.00" with the 230.........It is .my favorite cartridge by far, but I live in Alaska.....  Yeah Wilson trimmer would change that process a bit I think, but now you have an idea, and you can better make choices on what works for you... |
|
Check out 21st Century innovations for their mandrel die and mandrels. I like their nitride mandrels. I typically use a mandrel that is .002” under bullet diameter. I also found using neo lube number 2 in the neck works very well. I dip a small foam swab into the neo lube number 2 and then apply it to the inside of the neck. I let it dry over night or throw it a bowl and use my wife’s old blow dryer to heat it up hot enough I can’t hold the brass and wait for it to cool down. |
|
Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: Lol, yeah she is a good cartridge if you can make use of it .. I do load long..SAAMI oil spec is 3.6" and I load just shy of 4.00" with the 230.........It is .my favorite cartridge by far, but I live in Alaska..... Yeah Wilson trimmer would change that process a bit I think, but now you have an idea, and you can better make choices on what works for you... 
|
|
Originally Posted By chocolateisyummy2: Check out 21st Century innovations for their mandrel die and mandrels. I like their nitride mandrels. I typically use a mandrel that is .002" under bullet diameter. I also found using neo lube number 2 in the neck works very well. I dip a small foam swab into the neo lube number 2 and then apply it to the inside of the neck. I let it dry over night or throw it a bowl and use my wife's old blow dryer to heat it up hot enough I can't hold the brass and wait for it to cool down. Thanks for the tip on Neolube, I'll check it out. |
|
Ordered the . Whidden bushing kit w/ 5 bushings .333 - .337 and a Redding 308 body die I'll order the 21st Century expander die and mandrels next. The 30 Cal Kit includes the following sizes - .304, .3045, .305, .3055, .306, .3065, .307, .3075, .308, .3085, .309 . Not sure I'd use some of those. I'll measure several types of loaded ammo to figure out the range of mandrel sizes needed. |
|
You definitely don’t need that many mandrels. If you want two thousandths of neck tension for a 308 get a .306” mandrel. Two thousandths is normally what you want for neck tension. The brass will probably have a little spring back resulting in .0025” of neck tension. If you want to verify the neck tension buy a few pin gauges in .306”, .3065”, .3055” and .305”. For example, if the .3055” pin gauge fits snug without play but the .306” pin gauge doesn’t fit. That would mean you have two and a half thousandths of neck tension holding the bullet. You are using the mandrel to set neck tension so just pick a bushing that would be .004” smaller than the neck diameter with a bullet loaded. |
|
Originally Posted By chocolateisyummy2: You definitely don’t need that many mandrels. If you want two thousandths of neck tension for a 308 get a .306” mandrel. Two thousandths is normally what you want for neck tension. The brass will probably have a little spring back resulting in .0025” of neck tension. If you want to verify the neck tension buy a few pin gauges in .306”, .3065”, .3055” and .305”. For example, if the .3055” pin gauge fits snug without play but the .306” pin gauge doesn’t fit. That would mean you have two and a half thousandths of neck tension holding the bullet. You are using the mandrel to set neck tension so just pick a bushing that would be .004” smaller than the neck diameter with a bullet loaded. Yes and no..brass hardness can affect neck tension and neck spring back, so it may take slightly more or less mandrel sizing to end up with the desired neck tension one wants..Take same lot of brass, divide in half, anneal half twice per loading to ensure soft brass and directly compare with non annealed brass that has been loaded 5-10 times with out any annealing..it will require at least 2 different sized mandrels to get close on neck tension if you even can...So 1 single mandrel may not be enough unless you have basically perfectly consistent brass and a process that can hold the consistency that close over the life of the brass...Will the results be noticeable at 100 yards, likely not but stretch the cartridge to its limits and I bet the difference is noticeable.... |
|
Originally Posted By chocolateisyummy2: You definitely don't need that many mandrels. If you want two thousandths of neck tension for a 308 get a .306" mandrel. Two thousandths is normally what you want for neck tension. The brass will probably have a little spring back resulting in .0025" of neck tension. If you want to verify the neck tension buy a few pin gauges in .306", .3065", .3055" and .305". For example, if the .3055" pin gauge fits snug without play but the .306" pin gauge doesn't fit. That would mean you have two and a half thousandths of neck tension holding the bullet. You are using the mandrel to set neck tension so just pick a bushing that would be .004" smaller than the neck diameter with a bullet loaded. |
|
Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: Yes and no..brass hardness can affect neck tension and neck spring back, so it may take slightly more or less mandrel sizing to end up with the desired neck tension one wants..Take same lot of brass, divide in half, anneal half twice per loading to ensure soft brass and directly compare with non annealed brass that has been loaded 5-10 times with out any annealing..it will require at least 2 different sized mandrels to get close on neck tension if you even can...So 1 single mandrel may not be enough unless you have basically perfectly consistent brass and a process that can hold the consistency that close over the life of the brass...Will the results be noticeable at 100 yards, likely not but stretch the cartridge to its limits and I bet the difference is noticeable....
|
|
Originally Posted By Blowout: I'm beginning to understand why you anneal cases 2 times. I noticed a difference in my results, and what made a noticeable difference was annealing twice..I don't expect everyone to do it, or anyone for that matter, but I do it because I see results for an issue that I was seeing..A bonus was it improved case life...I used to get a max of 6-7 reloads on RP 300rum brass, decent especially with how much once fired brass I have stockpiled over the years(I used to buy factory ammo by the case just because it was about the same cost for me to reload)My current brass has been reloaded 16 times..I lose one here and there but its mainly primer pockets finally get to loose..I can't remember the last time I had a case fail for case head separation or split neck....Thats loading 99grains of RL-33 with a 230 Berger @3220fps... 
|
|
Just some advice you didn't ask for.... If you have a heavy bbl match gun in 308, use that as the platform for learning to turn that brass (and your reloading) into loads that will give you rational feedback. Run a parallel batch of Lapua brass. It will show you a baseline so you can tell what you are doing with that surplus MG brass. Most AR15s are not precision/accuracy rigs and the AR10 is far less standardized in this respect. (Like the advice to learn this on a heavy barrel bolt gun... this begs the question of have you learned to master precision/accuracy on a high quality AR15 match gun? If not, I suggest doing this first or in parallel.) Grab some FGMM in your choice of one or both of the 168 - 175 SMK loads to baseline your AR10. This will teach you two things. One is that your AR10 with the loose barrel nut is going to be a challenge to use for precision/accuracy feedback unless you were the lucky lottery winner. Chamber and bbl quality matter. The second thing this baseline exercise will show you, is that unless an AR10 is built for purpose, it is very positionally sensitive. That sensitivity opens up the groups and can frustrate a rookie reloader when it makes them assume it is due to their loading workmanship when it is really the nature of the rig. If at all possible, hook up with a mentor at a club where this type of shooting is done at a high level. They will adopt you and pull you up the learning curve much faster than you will ever get on your own. Hope that is helpful and not hurtful. In for the range reports and good luck on your AR10 journey. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! |
|
Lots of good information above. My only comments after reading through this: I do not recommend neck sizing. Issues described above are real. We see it all the time in elr where shooters who think they need to do it spend precious time un stucking cases. In an elr comp you can clear one stuck case, if it happens again you are done. When sizing for your semi shoot for .003 shoulder setback. Even a little more won’t hurt. For the bolt gun 1-2 thou is fine. For your gas gun, if you use a collet die you will have to use a neck expander also. Most semi case necks will have dents that are enough to not result in complete sizing. Even for my bolt gun I inspect all necks before sizing. If any are dented I run a mandrel through before sizing. In my experience, most semi chambers are not particularly tight so you won’t benefit from neck turning. Unless your bolt gun has a match chamber you won’t need to neck size. Getting accuracy out of your semi will likely boil down to finding the right bullet and powder combo. You can load very accurate ammo with an rcbs fl die and a good seater die. I use Forester or Wilson seating dies. Best of luck to you. |
|
If you have any doubt AT ALL your LC 7.62 brass may have been fire-formed in a machinegun size it through a 30-06 die first. It will bring your case very close to virgin brass dimensions with spring-back. It may help with your concentricity gauge contact point issue as well. 30-06:  308 WIN: Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By RegionRat: Just some advice you didn't ask for.... If you have a heavy bbl match gun in 308, use that as the platform for learning to turn that brass (and your reloading) into loads that will give you rational feedback. Run a parallel batch of Lapua brass. It will show you a baseline so you can tell what you are doing with that surplus MG brass. Most AR15s are not precision/accuracy rigs and the AR10 is far less standardized in this respect. (Like the advice to learn this on a heavy barrel bolt gun... this begs the question of have you learned to master precision/accuracy on a high quality AR15 match gun? If not, I suggest doing this first or in parallel.) Grab some FGMM in your choice of one or both of the 168 - 175 SMK loads to baseline your AR10. This will teach you two things. One is that your AR10 with the loose barrel nut is going to be a challenge to use for precision/accuracy feedback unless you were the lucky lottery winner. Chamber and bbl quality matter. The second thing this baseline exercise will show you, is that unless an AR10 is built for purpose, it is very positionally sensitive. That sensitivity opens up the groups and can frustrate a rookie reloader when it makes them assume it is due to their loading workmanship when it is really the nature of the rig. If at all possible, hook up with a mentor at a club where this type of shooting is done at a high level. They will adopt you and pull you up the learning curve much faster than you will ever get on your own. Hope that is helpful and not hurtful. In for the range reports and good luck on your AR10 journey. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! My approach is to go through a learning curve with the LC brass while accumulating the necessary precision loading tools during the process. Also want to get a process down on paper and some technique honed in before screwing up the Lapua brass. Lapua is going to be dedicated to the bolt gun. Grabbing a box or two of FGGM is a good idea and is now on my to-do list. Thanks for the suggestion! The bolt gun does well with FGGM 168gr. If I can duplicate the FGGM performance I'll be happy. Here are 2 targets shot 20 yrs apart using a bipod from a bench and no rear bag support, 100yds. First target 3 rounds, second target 5 rounds. Rem700 w/26" barrel. Scope is a Leupold 3x10 VX3. Had a smith pillar bed the action and float the barrel so I wouldn't consider it a match rifle, but it can shoot. Trigger has a bit of a hitch in it and I never got around to messing with it or replacing it. It hasn't been shot much. Maybe 200 rounds, I didn't keep track. Haven't shot the rifle in years. Attached File Attached File and Merry Christmas and Happy New Years to you and yours! |
|
Originally Posted By SpeyRod: Lots of good information above. My only comments after reading through this: I do not recommend neck sizing. Issues described above are real. We see it all the time in elr where shooters who think they need to do it spend precious time un stucking cases. In an elr comp you can clear one stuck case, if it happens again you are done. When sizing for your semi shoot for .003 shoulder setback. Even a little more won't hurt. For the bolt gun 1-2 thou is fine. For your gas gun, if you use a collet die you will have to use a neck expander also. Most semi case necks will have dents that are enough to not result in complete sizing. Even for my bolt gun I inspect all necks before sizing. If any are dented I run a mandrel through before sizing. I plan to use an expander mandrel to set neck tension. Good news, the necks looked good before they were sized... no dents or out of round case mouths. The case bodies are where I notice imperfections. In my experience, most semi chambers are not particularly tight so you won't benefit from neck turning. Unless your bolt gun has a match chamber you won't need to neck size. I'm not going to turn the necks on the gas gun and hope to avoid doing it on the bolt gun by using Lapua brass. Getting accuracy out of your semi will likely boil down to finding the right bullet and powder combo. You can load very accurate ammo with an rcbs fl die and a good seater die. I use Forester or Wilson seating dies. Best of luck to you. |
|
Originally Posted By Sinister: If you have any doubt AT ALL your LC 7.62 brass may have been fire-formed in a machinegun size it through a 30-06 die first. It will bring your case very close to virgin brass dimensions with spring-back. It may help with your concentricity gauge contact point issue as well. 30-06: https://i0.wp.com/www.theballisticassistant.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/30-06.jpg 308 WIN: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/18978/308_WIN_jpg-3678931.JPG Thank you for this. It does sound familiar now you mention this. I have a memory like a goldfish these days, so reminders are necessary part of my life!
|
|
Surplus military 7.62x51mm may or may not have been fired through a machine gun, they will all be longer (headspace) because the 7.62x51mm NATO chamber spec allows for it. Even bolt guns and M14's will stretch the cases, having an allowable headspace dimension that would fail a civilian .308 "field gage". That's SAAMI minimum +.010". |
Joined:
Dec 2025
Posts:
54
EE: 0% (0)
TX, USA
|
Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: So you think your FL resize is not moving both the body and neck? there is no difference between using a FL die and using separate body die and neck die..the only difference is each is done as a separate step...Or are you saying you don't use a bushing neck die? again, weather a normal neck die or a bushing die, one simple gives you better control over the results than the other..your statement above makes little sense when compared with your latest statement...If you FL resize, then yes you are moving the body of the case to include both the neck and shoulder its just a matter of how much the single die moves either one versus what is best for your chamber per the neck and per shoulder bump... Your method sounds like an immense waste of time but eh if it works for ya... |
|
Everything AKSnowrider says: Is safe advice. I follow a very similar process …..and I get outstanding results. And I’ve been using a rockchucker for decades. It will work fine OP with quality dies: bang for the buck Foresters are hard to beat I run all Forester and Redding and you won’t go wrong with either. |
|
Originally Posted By crwdplsr: Everything AKSnowrider says: Is safe advice. I follow a very similar process …..and I get outstanding results. And I’ve been using a rockchucker for decades. It will work fine OP with quality dies: bang for the buck Foresters are hard to beat I run all Forester and Redding and you won’t go wrong with either. It may work, but as others have said, there are more efficient ways to get the same or better results. It’s the same as his double annealing practice. It works for him, but it certainly isn’t the only way. I’ve got buddies who are national level winners in F class….they don’t do that, so even at the highest levels of competition, it’s not needed. I simply FL resize. No crazy mandrels, no separate steps. Single digit SD’s and I have numerous loads that are easily sub half moa. They may could be better, but I’m seldom better than a consistent 3/8moa shooter on a good day with my bolt guns. For gas guns, it’s the same process, with a RC press and Hornady or RCBS FL sizing dies. Sub 3/4moa is relatively easy to obtain. |