Posted: 1/10/2026 5:42:17 PM EDT
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I'm looking for a tiller to break up my existing garden, and add additional planting areas. My soil is sandy and fairly dry, but it has thick grass on most of it. I've tried cutting through with my disc harrow, but it's a worn out home made unit that just can't seem to get through the grass. My tractor is a Kubota L3901 HST, 4wd. I'm not brand specific, and I don't really care what color paint is on it. I'm looking to buy once, and I want something that will last. I currently have a 5ft bush hog, and that seems about the right size for this tractor. Do I want to stay with a 5ft tiller? Is that too much for a 39hp tractor with a hydrostat transmission? What brand do you suggest? Is the County Line from Tractor Supply any good? Should I spend more to get a Land Pride from my Kubota dealer? If I look for a used ones, what should I inspect when I go to look at them? All advice and experience is welcomed. |
| I can run a 4 ft tiller with my 18 hp JD650 so I expect you could run a 5 ft with your tractor. You might need to make a few passes at increasing depth if the soil is really hard but as long as it isn't rocky I doubt it will be a problem. |
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Don’t use a tiller to break new ground. That’s VERY hard on the tiller and tractor. Use a plow to break new ground. Then use the tiller to till it up. That said, you mentioned your soil is sandy so maybe it will work ok. I’d get one the width of your tractor wheels or slightly wider. Can you rent on instead? For an occasional use implement often renting is a better use of the money. |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
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I bought a 5’ King Kutter through Northern Hydraulics years ago. I cannot kill it. I use a B3200 32 horse tractor. Mow the area short before you till it or you’ll just keep wrapping tall grass around the tine shaft. Edit…King Kutter is noted for lousy paint but a great gear box. |
The only hyphenated names I like are cartridge names......30-06, 30-40, 38-55 etc.
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Before I got a LMC Ag tiller made in Georgia I think, I used a middle buster or subsoiler to break new ground before discing. Only have a 1026 JD so the one row was like $150 at tractor supply. Definitely slower than the tiller but if you are looking to save money this is an option. The middle buster was great for harvesting potatoes, making wide ditches, etc. The subsoiler has let me run water pipe to the garden and electrical to a building so there's some versatility. Now that I have the tiller, I wouldn't trade it, but the middle buster and subsoiler got me by for several years. |
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James Mattis
James Mattis
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Originally Posted By HgMike: Before I got a LMC Ag tiller made in Georgia I think, I used a middle buster or subsoiler to break new ground before discing. Only have a 1026 JD so the one row was like $150 at tractor supply. Definitely slower than the tiller but if you are looking to save money this is an option. The middle buster was great for harvesting potatoes, making wide ditches, etc. The subsoiler has let me run water pipe to the garden and electrical to a building so there's some versatility. Now that I have the tiller, I wouldn't trade it, but the middle buster and subsoiler got me by for several years. A sub soiler or cultivator is normally pretty cheap money, especially used, and I agree, they would make your tiller's life easier. Once you've worked the ground once or twice, the tiller should be able to do its thing without the extra assistance. Also, if this is an area that has been worked up somewhat recently, that might negate the sub soiler/cultivator pass as well. |
"When you need it and ain't got it, you're singin' a different tune..."
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Be careful on FB marketplace i got a well known brand from there and it was trashed in the gear box. The guy took it back when I called him. I ended up with an offset king kutter and have no problems. Gear driven and no chains Eta as mentioned use a plow to break up initial. I've got red clay and run a potato plow to did down and break up the ground and then hit it with the tiller |
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Thanks. Sounds like I need a single bottom plow and a tiller the width of my tires. My neighbor has a plow he never uses, maybe I can buy it off of him or find one on Marketplace. There are no moving parts there, so I'm not worried about a used plow. Does anyone have an opinion on a specific brand or should I get whatever the local dealers have the best price on? I'm nervous about buying used unless it is hooked up and I can see it in use. |
| Even with a good tiller you will still have to have a plow to break the hardpan every so often that using the tiller creates. A tiller only goes so deep and the tines create that hardpan over time at that particular depth. This happens very quickly in clay soils especially, like here where I live. I've used the same garden spot now for 20 years and have had to plow it every few years and of course add organics along the way - I save my leaves in an area for a few years at a time and dump garden scraps there too for some compost to add when I plow. |
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Instead of a plow, you could get something like this. I have one and have only used it to trench for plumbing. But, it would work well to break open new soil. It’ll be a little slow but sounds like time isn’t an issue for you. https://www.northerntool.com/products/king-kutter-xb-middle-buster-subsoiler-combo-model-mb-s-xb-256008 |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
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How large of an area? We never cultivate our garden, 45x65’, even areas that were grass. Lay plastic or cardboard until everything is dead, then plant, lay mulch. No drainage or hard pan problems. |
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L.P. Hartley
L.P. Hartley