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Posted: 12/29/2025 2:31:04 PM EDT
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So I keep a bit of gasoline at the house, treated with Pri-G and rotated every 12-15 months. Never had any issues with it and I rotate it only so the shelf life is preserved, recognizing that the Pri-G will hold it a lot longer than a year. Someone asked me the other day- do I store winter- or summer-blend gas? Well, it actually shifts year after year as the rotation is not spot on in the same month every time. Is there an advantage to either summer- or winter-blend in terms of storage stability or anything else? |
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Disclaimer- don't know if this has changed or what- but for years the idea was to store "winter" blends of liquid fuels. Rotating cheap unleaded stored with PRI-G that is a few years old without issue. Old skewl off road diesel (before the change) put up with PRI-D was good 10-15 years later in a backhoe, tractor and bulldozer. |
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Originally Posted By TAP: So I keep a bit of gasoline at the house, treated with Pri-G and rotated every 12-15 months. Never had any issues with it and I rotate it only so the shelf life is preserved, recognizing that the Pri-G will hold it a lot longer than a year. Someone asked me the other day- do I store winter- or summer-blend gas? Well, it actually shifts year after year as the rotation is not spot on in the same month every time. Is there an advantage to either summer- or winter-blend in terms of storage stability or anything else? I am not a gasoline expert but my understanding is cold weather gas has more butane in it. It’s more volatile so cold engines start better with the higher butane levels. Theoretically, winter blends wouldn’t store as long due to the higher volatility. In practice, if you store your gasoline in well sealed cans, the volatility won’t matter. I don’t worry about it. I keep 14 NATO cans with gasoline in them. My rotation schedule has my gasoline rotated every 1.5-2 years. It’s certainly possible I’ll burn summer gas in winter and winter gas in summer depending on when it was filled. I don’t have any issues though. The secret to long gasoline life is well sealed storage. Gasoline preservatives probably help a little but poorly stored gas will go bad with or without preservatives and properly stored gas will last for years (I’ve tested up to 4 years) without preservatives. Personally, all my stored gas and my lawn mower and power sports stuff gets PRI G since they sometimes sit for awhile in between uses. I store and use ethanol containing gas without issue despite what retards on the internet say. I know you didn’t ask about diesel but just in case….winterized diesel is far more important than winter gas. I don’t use a lot of diesel but do use some for my tractor and current generator. ALL my diesel gets treated with Power Service white bottle. |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
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I rotate mine out every September. So I don’t have a clue if it’s summer or winter blend. What I have runs fine. Fill a 5 gallon can when I burn it. So I’m sure there’s some winter blend in the mix. Treat it and store it. |
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I have 5 gallon "Safety" cans and high quality Jerry cans (Wavian brand Jerry Cans 0.9 mm cold-rolled steel... where VEVOR brand Jerry Cans are typically made of thick, cold-rolled steel only (0.8mm)). I have used StaBil and have gone 3 years plus storage with no problem. The Safety cans vent in the summer (after a pressure which is calibrated is exceeded) as the volume expands in hot weather. (stored in a non-climate controlled structure) In cold weather they can have slight vacuum and a "hiss" when the cap is opened. In any case it is uneventful to release the cap in hot or cold weather. The Jerry cans are sealed tight with no way to release pressure when the heat causes expansion. So... with the can sitting level if there is a vacuum there will be a "hiss" when opened, however if the heat cause expansion pressure... it will vent a spray of gas vapor and droplets which could, if near a flame, ignite at worst or spray the mist on you and your clothing. No one wants to have the smell of gasoline on their clothing, or worse. To minimize this problem of the gasoline mist, I tip the can back on the rear corner to position the opening up when opening the Jerry can. When there is a pressurized Jerry can, it can also be noticed as the sides of the Jerry cans will bulge outward. If there is a vacuum the sides may be concave. I have had Jerry cans which held a vacuum cause the can sides to be concave when empty. In other words stay the shape caused by the vacuum. I suppose once they are refilled, the weight of the gasoline will return to normal shape. Anything worth doing is worth over doing mentality... I took a Jerry can spout and cut it so I could seal the fuel path with JB Weld and clamp a tire valve stem on the vent pipe. I can put that cap on an empty can that remained concave, then use a small bit of air pressure via my air compressor just a bit until the can returns to OEM shape. ETA... I am not rich. I bought my Wavian Jerry Cans when they could be found, four cans for about $125.00 shipped. Now they can cost that much for ONE Jerry Can. I have at least a dozen Wavian (should have bought more!) and about half a dozen Eagle Safety cans. I also have some GELG Polish manufactured cans, 10 liter, 5 liter and 2 or 2.5 liter. They seem very well made. Attached File |
So... I find comfort in the fact that if Trump has to work so hard to go to Heaven, then there is a shit load of Democrats that have no f-cking chance to go anywhere but HELL. Sometimes it is entirely appropriate to kill a fly with a sledge-hammer.
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Originally Posted By DasRonin: I have 5 gallon "Safety" cans and high quality Jerry cans (Wavian brand Jerry Cans 0.9 mm cold-rolled steel... where VEVOR brand Jerry Cans are typically made of thick, cold-rolled steel only (0.8mm)). I have used StaBil and have gone 3 years plus storage with no problem. The Safety cans vent in the summer (after a pressure which is calibrated is exceeded) as the volume expands in hot weather. (stored in a non-climate controlled structure) In cold weather they can have slight vacuum and a "hiss" when the cap is opened. In any case it is uneventful to release the cap in hot or cold weather. The Jerry cans are sealed tight with no way to release pressure when the heat causes expansion. So... with the can sitting level if there is a vacuum there will be a "hiss" when opened, however if the heat cause expansion pressure... it will vent a spray of gas vapor and droplets which could, if near a flame, ignite at worst or spray the mist on you and your clothing. No one wants to have the smell of gasoline on their clothing, or worse. To minimize this problem of the gasoline mist, I tip the can back on the rear corner to position the opening up when opening the Jerry can. When there is a pressurized Jerry can, it can also be noticed as the sides of the Jerry cans will bulge outward. If there is a vacuum the sides may be concave. I have had Jerry cans which held a vacuum cause the can sides to be concave when empty. In other words stay the shape caused by the vacuum. I suppose once they are refilled, the weight of the gasoline will return to normal shape. Anything worth doing is worth over doing mentality... I took a Jerry can spout and cut it so I could seal the fuel path with JB Weld and clamp a tire valve stem on the vent pipe. I can put that cap on an empty can that remained concave, then use a small bit of air pressure via my air compressor just a bit until the can returns to OEM shape. ETA... I am not rich. I bought my Wavian Jerry Cans when they could be found, four cans for about $125.00 shipped. Now they can cost that much for ONE Jerry Can. I have at least a dozen Wavian (should have bought more!) and about half a dozen Eagle Safety cans. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/70257/jerry_can_widget_-1_jpg-3684394.JPG That’s a sharp mod! It’s the temp changes that affect the pressure or vacuum inside the gas can. Fill a can in the summer and in winter, it will collapse in. Vice versa winter vs summer. Leave an empty can in the sun for awhile and it’ll expand a lot. |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
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Winter-blend gas has a higher vapor pressure (more volatile). Easier cold starts in cars during winter. But in storage, it evaporates faster and can gum up carbs more quickly. Summer-blend gas has a lower vapor pressure (less volatile). More stable in heat and storage. Less prone to evaporation and varnish buildup. Summer-blend is better than winter for storage. Ethanol-free summer-blend with stabilizer is best. |
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Originally Posted By LoneMouser: Winter-blend gas has a higher vapor pressure (more volatile). Easier cold starts in cars during winter. But in storage, it evaporates faster and can gum up carbs more quickly. Summer-blend gas has a lower vapor pressure (less volatile). More stable in heat and storage. Less prone to evaporation and varnish buildup. Summer-blend is better than winter for storage. Ethanol-free summer-blend with stabilizer is best. Interesting. You used to always hear "winter blend" was better for storage. I've stored both and just fill up as cans are rotated and tank's are emptied, not really waiting for anything. But that was always "the word" in preparedness circles. |
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| When I have a few empty 5-gallon cans I go fill them up and put them back into the rotation. Sometimes its summer, sometimes winter. I use a mix of different cans acquired over the years and as long as it holds a good seal I put it back into rotation. I used to use additive but quit sometime in the last decade. I use non ethanol 91 oct because that's what our local stations have. Haven't had any issues but I am a bit of a motor head and keep my things in good running order. I probably rotate through it all every 18 months or so between powersports and utility use. I don't usually use it in my vehicles because it's at least a dollar more per gallon than the 10% shit. |
Originally Posted By ar-jedi:
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
| I store 50gallons in various cans..jerry cans to older plastic ones from Lowe's. All I store is ethanol laced regular. Treated with stabil. I rotate every fall. Never had any issues. Primary use is in my ATV, and generator. I run the carb dry on the genny after every use, which is maybe 2 times a year depending on our outages. |
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Originally Posted By JackwagonJim: I store 50gallons in various cans..jerry cans to older plastic ones from Lowe's. All I store is ethanol laced regular. Treated with stabil. I rotate every fall. Never had any issues. Primary use is in my ATV, and generator. I run the carb dry on the genny after every use, which is maybe 2 times a year depending on our outages. Laughs in propane genny. |
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I only use ethanol free in my small engines and for storage. After two years when the fuel is cycled out , the untreated gas always works fine and smells good . I find the extra cost is extremely valuable in that small engines work consistently and fuel lasts longer. |
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Originally Posted By Lowdown3: Interesting. You used to always hear "winter blend" was better for storage. I've stored both and just fill up as cans are rotated and tank's are emptied, not really waiting for anything. But that was always "the word" in preparedness circles. Originally Posted By Lowdown3: Interesting. You used to always hear "winter blend" was better for storage. I've stored both and just fill up as cans are rotated and tank's are emptied, not really waiting for anything. But that was always "the word" in preparedness circles. Maybe that's more related to performance, winter blend is better "in-use", particularly in cold weather, so store that. But for long-term storage specifically, summer-blend. Far north GA they switch around September every year from what I know. I've had stabilized summer-blend ethanol free work no problem after 3 years. Originally Posted By backbencher: Laughs in propane genny. Solar generator has entered the chat. Actually have all three; gas-only, dual with liquid propane plumbed to a 500-gallon tank, and a 240 solar generator. Can run any of them through a sub-panel for the important stuff in the cabin. We get a lot of power outages where I live and the absolute best thing about that solar generator is it lets me sleep all night. Solar generator sits in the cabin available to run the well, refrigerators, outside lights (although we go black usually), etc. all night with zero noise. I get to sleep AND I can hear the bumps in the night. I use the propane genny to top-off the solar during the day. Own solar-panels but only used them one to test. |
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Originally Posted By LoneMouser: Maybe that's more related to performance, winter blend is better "in-use", particularly in cold weather, so store that. But for long-term storage specifically, summer-blend. Far north GA they switch around September every year from what I know. I've had stabilized summer-blend ethanol free work no problem after 3 years. Solar generator has entered the chat. Actually have all three; gas-only, dual with liquid propane plumbed to a 500-gallon tank, and a 240 solar generator. Can run any of them through a sub-panel for the important stuff in the cabin. We get a lot of power outages where I live and the absolute best thing about that solar generator is it lets me sleep all night. Solar generator sits in the cabin available to run the well, refrigerators, outside lights (although we go black usually), etc. all night with zero noise. I get to sleep AND I can hear the bumps in the night. I use the propane genny to top-off the solar during the day. Own solar-panels but only used them one to test. This is kinda of how everyone did alternative energy back in the 1990's- solar panels were expensive AF back then. We did $6.25 per watt for our first Kyocera 130 watt panels (which BTW 90% of them are still producing 27 years later). Since it was cost prohibitive back then to go too large on solar, most had a modest solar array and a big genset. The genset was used for heavy loads- pumping water, etc. as well as to bulk charge the battery bank. We used to run ours like that for maybe 30-45 minutes every other morning or so, then shut it off. The 1600 watts of solar (back then) would continue to feed the 20 L16s in the battery bank. We used propane for water heater and range/stove, heated solely with wood. Lived like that for years till increasing our array size once panels started getting cheaper. |
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Originally Posted By Cptbwst: Laughs in reduced power output. And? You should size the generator to the expected load. As long as you are within the specs of the generator, it doesn’t matter what fuel it’s running on. Generators running on propane (and natural gas) last longer than generators running on gasoline. Propane and natural gas burns cleaner than gasoline. |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
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I just "found" four 5 gallon Wavians full of ethanol-free with Pri-G that I filled in 2022. They were on a shelf in my garage that I had put other things in front of and completely forgot about them until this thread popped up. I have not opened them yet to inspect, but am trying to decide what to do with them. The only gas equipment I run any more is a tiller, but even if I go over everything twice will only use about a third of one can. I have a couple generators, but almost never use them for anything, so that would not use much either. Do I dare to add a bit to the tank of my truck before filling up for the next little while until I burn through all of it? I can't believe I spaced these, out of sight out of mind I guess. |
| I have a 55 gallon drum with a hand pump. I only store non-ethanol gasoline with some Sta-Bil in it. It's inside a storage building, but not climate controlled, so it's out of the sun and the rain. I've kept fuel in it as long as 2+ years and not had any problems. |
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Originally Posted By onesureshot: I just "found" four 5 gallon Wavians full of ethanol-free with Pri-G that I filled in 2022. They were on a shelf in my garage that I had put other things in front of and completely forgot about them until this thread popped up. I have not opened them yet to inspect, but am trying to decide what to do with them. The only gas equipment I run any more is a tiller, but even if I go over everything twice will only use about a third of one can. I have a couple generators, but almost never use them for anything, so that would not use much either. Do I dare to add a bit to the tank of my truck before filling up for the next little while until I burn through all of it? I can't believe I spaced these, out of sight out of mind I guess. I would just use them in your vehicle but not all at once. Add 5 gallons to 1/2 tank and run it. Maybe a visual and smell check if you are concerned but being non ethanol and in good cans it's probably fine. |
Originally Posted By ar-jedi:
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
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Originally Posted By onesureshot: I just "found" four 5 gallon Wavians full of ethanol-free with Pri-G that I filled in 2022. They were on a shelf in my garage that I had put other things in front of and completely forgot about them until this thread popped up. I have not opened them yet to inspect, but am trying to decide what to do with them. The only gas equipment I run any more is a tiller, but even if I go over everything twice will only use about a third of one can. I have a couple generators, but almost never use them for anything, so that would not use much either. Do I dare to add a bit to the tank of my truck before filling up for the next little while until I burn through all of it? I can't believe I spaced these, out of sight out of mind I guess. It’ll be fine. Run it. I’ve stored gas for up to 4 years without issue. As long as it’s in well sealed cans (and Wavians are top quality cans) gas will last for a very long time. If you are worried, run a can at a time on an almost full tank. But, I wouldn’t. My normal rotation plan has the gas stored for 1.5-2 years. It’s just as good when I use it as when I filled it. Every time. I only store and use ethanol gas too. It’s fine. Well sealed….itll last years. I should run a test sometime. Store it and open it in 10 years. Probably won’t. |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally Posted By thederrick106: I would just use them in your vehicle but not all at once. Add 5 gallons to 1/2 tank and run it. Maybe a visual and smell check if you are concerned but being non ethanol and in good cans it's probably fine. This. I'm a big fan of the $2.99 fuel injector/carb cleaner additives. May do nothing I don't know, but using "old" gas in quite a few vehicles, generators, tillers, lawnmowers, etc. over the decades I've added that or Seafoam in fairly regularly and have few issues. |
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