ITT We post pics and talk about our ham projects, big or small. (Page 15 of 19)
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Attached File Clandestine senior living apartment install of a 80m efhw for a YL who moved to Missouri. My line launcher is leaking air.... Need to revise that system. Used a Comet window jumper to get the coax inside. Attached File Attached File |
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Finished this project. I had to add a bit more height above the metal pole to avoid interference. I did the modeling for a height of about 12 feet. It's definitely truck portable. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By DarkLordVader: Finished this project. I had to add a bit more height above the metal pole to avoid interference. I did the modeling for a height of about 12 feet. It's definitely truck portable. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/322769/2m-yagi-2_jpg-3397967.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/322769/2m-yagi_png-3397971.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/322769/2m-yagi-gain_png-3397974.JPG Vader, 2 el, foil tape wrapped? |
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Originally Posted By DarkLordVader: Yes, on the director and the reflector. The driven element is a flowerpot. Plain foil and packing tape works just as well if you don't have the tape around. I had to look up 'flowerpot' antenna. That's a great set up. |
Supreme Exalted Ruler, Republic of One Lane Bridge.
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Originally Posted By seek2: Close! Low band indeed. 1750M. It's an unlicensed band and after playing around with 80M for the 20-100 mile comms stuff and getting working signals at milliwatt levels, I wanted to see if I could pull it off with an unlicensed frequency. You're limited to 1W power input into the final amplifier (using the best current designs that results in about 700 mW out) and a 50' total antenna system length (transmitter terminal to end of antenna.) Thus you need a loading coil like this. The crazy thing is this would be considered a pretty basic coil, there's stations using refrigeration tubing or 3/8 thick litz wire for their coils, the typical ERP from the antenna systems is usually microwatts and doing low-loss stuff like big conductors has a big payoff at such low power levels. What got my attention is that the folks that do this (called "Lowfers") are super focused on DX, not local comms, and several blogs casually mentioned copy at 100 miles using trivial antennas (like a standard 2M mag mount with a preamp) like it was no big deal and happened all the time. One source suggested that antenna changes needed to be monitored at a few tens of wavelengths away to know if they were effective. On 10M if you monitored your antenna changes at a 1/4 mile, you'd be ~ 40 wavelengths away. That same distance by wavelengths on 1750M is 40 miles and again copy here is apparently nothing special. There's an old youtube videos of doing signal checks at 25 miles using a one foot loop antenna, inside a car in an urban area, with easy copy. Given weak signal modes like js8call/FT8 I pondered that it might be possible to make local 20-100 mile digital communications work on this license-free band, so there's only one way to find out and that's get on the air, hence the giant coil. I'm hoping to have the TX up and running in a few days, obviously I need to add more turns to this coil to get where I need to be. Side benefit is most of the stuff can be easily adapted for 2200M if I'm so inclined. Way behind on this thread but have always been intrigued by the low freq stuff. I'd looked into 1750 long, long ago but it was more than I could muster. Partly because in my youth I was exposed to the LF aviation beacons and when I got my first shortwave radio I used to scan around LF listening for them. With the current state of technology it would seem pretty simple for someone more skilled than I to come up with a kit transceiver that would cover 2200, 1750 and 630, wish someone would offer something like that. Remote the final out on a long run of ethernet or rg6. |
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Attached File After 6 months the QRP LDMOS amp board are done. This is an NXP MRF-101 single TO-220 device. 50v DC with 1-2w drive 100w+ out. Works on 160-6m with about 75w out above 30mz. The guy that designed the board won the NXP challenge with this setup. The Amp board is 2”x2” along with the Dual Directional Coupler and TR-RX board. The 7 band low pass filter board is 2”x4”. Also built an ATU-100ext board for a built in antenna tuner. Have not decided if I am going to include a 1200w DC-DC converter to run off of 12v yet. Have an idea on how I may do that. I have a couple of cases here I can house it in but not sure how I am going to do that yet. I want to keep it small if I can. The amp board is designed to use an old CPU heat sink for cooling. I have an Arduino Mega R3 that can be used for the controller with the 3.5” touch screen. I am debating if I want to use one of my other controllers here I have been working on for my big amp. I may use the Arduino then move on to the big controller so I can program the ATU-100 button on the Nextion for tune and bypass. After the first of the year I am going to order the second pallet for the big amp and a 2 device MRF-300 pallet for a 600w amp I want to build for my truck/camper. In the meantime I need to finish the control board for the big amp and have my VHF/UHF amps I need to convert as well |
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Originally Posted By stanprophet09: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_1119_jpeg-3415077.JPG After 6 months the QRP LDMOS amp board are done. This is an NXP MRF-101 single TO-220 device. 50v DC with 1-2w drive 100w+ out. Works on 160-6m with about 75w out above 30mz. The guy that designed the board won the NXP challenge with this setup. The Amp board is 2"x2" along with the Dual Directional Coupler and TR-RX board. The 7 band low pass filter board is 2"x4". Also built an ATU-100ext board for a built in antenna tuner. Have not decided if I am going to include a 1200w DC-DC converter to run off of 12v yet. Have an idea on how I may do that. I have a couple of cases here I can house it in but not sure how I am going to do that yet. I want to keep it small if I can. The amp board is designed to use an old CPU heat sink for cooling. I have an Arduino Mega R3 that can be used for the controller with the 3.5" touch screen. I am debating if I want to use one of my other controllers here I have been working on for my big amp. I may use the Arduino then move on to the big controller so I can program the ATU-100 button on the Nextion for tune and bypass. After the first of the year I am going to order the second pallet for the big amp and a 2 device MRF-300 pallet for a 600w amp I want to build for my truck/camper. In the meantime I need to finish the control board for the big amp and have my VHF/UHF amps I need to convert as well |
How come every time there is a shooting, they want to take away the guns from the people who didn't do it?
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Originally Posted By CS223: I sort of want to build one of the NXP boards to go with my Hermes Lite 2 but I have so many irons in the fire that I'm torn between doing that or buying a Neptune 100W amp or finding a deal on a RM Italy. The RM work. But they are pretty much a throw away. Most of the people that repair them will tell you the quality is not that great, parts are hard to get and many times after getting the parts and shipping you have exceeded the cost of the amp. I have seen some good thing with the neptunes I am planning on building a dual MRF-300 amp with the boards from DX World for a mobile amp. But for now this 100w will keep me busy. I am working on a lot of 3d prints and getting new printers so its been eating up a lot of my time. So I take breaks and circle back to my projects to clear my mind. |
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Going to try my hand on 630m with this transverter. I have a variometer/tuner (Southern Avionics PC3000) on its way it is a retired locator beacon from a airport, as well as a custom made 500w amp from K5DNL. And with the planned antenna, it should be able to give me the limited 5w EIRP power limit. Thats some serious loss. Voltages at the base of the antenna will near 50kv. The Transverter build is about 99% finished, I will be testing and tuning it tomorrow. Variometer/tuner will be here Saturday. Hopefully I will get to start the actual antenna in the next couple weeks. It will be a 65' center loaded vertical with 4- 45' wires acting as a capacitance hat. I will also have about 125- 75' radials.  Solder paste is the only way to go when soldering SMD components manually.  
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Originally Posted By WillieTangoFox: A gentleman in town is getting his tech license. I got him an older Kenwood 2m setup and we stole a 12V power supply from a scrapped piece of machinery. Tested everything last weekend, working great. He wants to build a 2m antenna that will attach to an old arm on his roof that used to have a satellite dish. I made myself a copper J pole for this exact application that I still use . But am wondering if there is something "better" like a copper slim jim we should make instead. Any input? Here |
Act Accordingly…
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Getting tired of cobbling this old 6BTV back together. 10 years of ice getting in, breaking stuff apart. I have repaired all of the traps at this point I think. Looks like the 20m trap separated and the top came crashing down, breaking the 80m whip. Too cold to fool with now. Attached File |
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Dont recall if I have shown pics of this in the past, but for people with older hustler trapped verticals, this is the mechanism of failure. The coil attaches to the tubes inside of a notch cut into the tube. That just rips off, and the topside of the trap starts migrating up. This appears to be one I have not fixed before. I have never had to fix one twice. I flow a crap ton of solder and then run wood screws through the damn thing to keep it together. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Finally got my 2m/70cm rig set up. Gratuitous antenna pic. Diamond X200 .Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Homesteader375: Finally got my 2m/70cm rig set up. Gratuitous antenna pic. Diamond X200 .https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/539786/20250125_155229_jpg-3445517.JPG Nice looking install - got it mostly up in the air and away from the house! Can you post pictures or a link to the standoffs you used and other hardware? Going to work on an outside the house 2m/440 install for myself soon. |
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Originally Posted By penrod72: @Homesteader375 Nice looking install - got it mostly up in the air and away from the house! Can you post pictures or a link to the standoffs you used and other hardware? Going to work on an outside the house 2m/440 install for myself soon. Thanks! The picture is even a little deceiving. Tha chimney is probably 20' away. The whole thing is 45' in the air. I used these brackets: https://a.co/d/1XmzKqx 2 of these poles: https://a.co/d/aiS8gfq This stick: https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dmn-x200a I ran lmr400 with Messi and Paoloni connectors. Trying to save every watt I can at nearly 70' to my radio. I'll probably push it up a couple more feet when I lightning protect it in the spring. |
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Originally Posted By Homesteader375: Thanks! The picture is even a little deceiving. Tha chimney is probably 20' away. The whole thing is 45' in the air. I used these brackets: https://a.co/d/1XmzKqx 2 of these poles: https://a.co/d/aiS8gfq This stick: https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dmn-x200a I ran lmr400 with Messi and Paoloni connectors. Trying to save every watt I can at nearly 70' to my radio. I'll probably push it up a couple more feet when I lightning protect it in the spring. |
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Originally Posted By penrod72: thanks for the info and links - plan for the spring (or at least when there is not 2 ft of snow to wade through on the roof!) That wasn't an option or an issue. I popped the sashes out of the dormer window and reached out. I'm too old to be out there, particularly in the snow and ice.Attached File |
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Boys….. this is some real shit sewing, lol, Saw a sewn strap used to slide down a fiberglass mast, to run support guy lines to at winter field day. Decided to make one…… my goodness I need to get back to practice on the Singer.  Attached File |
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Originally Posted By WillieTangoFox: Boys….. this is some real shit sewing, lol, Saw a sewn strap used to slide down a fiberglass mast, to run support guy lines to at winter field day. Decided to make one…… my goodness I need to get back to practice on the Singer. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_0491_jpeg-3446351.JPG It ain't ugly if it works. |
World ain't what it seems, is it Gunny?
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Originally Posted By WillieTangoFox: Saw a sewn strap https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_0491_jpeg-3446351.JPG Say that 10 times fast 
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Supreme Exalted Ruler, Republic of One Lane Bridge.
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Originally Posted By WillieTangoFox: Boys….. this is some real shit sewing, lol, Saw a sewn strap used to slide down a fiberglass mast, to run support guy lines to at winter field day. Decided to make one…… my goodness I need to get back to practice on the Singer. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_0491_jpeg-3446351.JPG That's not a half-bad idea, never even thought of using strap like that for that purpose. Might have to experiment with something like that. |
This is...a clue - Pat_Rogers
I'm not adequately aluminumized for this thread. - gonzo_beyondo
CO, MI, OR - Please lobby your legislators to end discrimination against non-resident CCW permit holders
I'm not adequately aluminumized for this thread. - gonzo_beyondo
CO, MI, OR - Please lobby your legislators to end discrimination against non-resident CCW permit holders
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Did a charging base for the UV-B5 radio. The old ones had broken splines that previously engaged the battery side slots. The base was 3d printed in three parts & assembled with M3 cap head screws. Attached File I used a TP5100 charge management module, configured for 1A 2S charging. I used a pigtail 2.1mm x 5.5mm barrel connector for DC supply voltage. The board can take 10v - 15v for 2S charging. I can use the old wall warts, or a male barrel connector with anderson powerpoles at the other end. Attached File External 3mm LED's were added to the case, green for idle/fully charged, red for charging. Attached File Attached File It also does standalone battery charging. Attached File I plan to do another for a radio whose charging base is hardwired for 120v to make it DC supply friendly. Source files on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1229594-uv-b5-charging-base |
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Current projects in list of priority 1) Resolve long term wall power for the FT-817 2) Realign TKR-840 for an in house repeater 3) Figure out if I want to deal with solid state switching between sources to the DB25, or build a front patch panel with DB9 ports for the repeater 4) Replace the broken GMRS repeater antenna. This will likely require a bucket truck or boom lift. 5) Rehang the 10-80 endfed half wave, my rehang last year was hasty so I could run a net that week. |
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Printed up some more radio pouches in TPU. Been a while since doing TPU so it took a couple of prints to dial in temp & speed on the machine (then got sloppy with the CA glue attaching the buttons). Attached File |
I started working on learning Morse Code so I decided to cobble together a straight key from crap in my garage: https://imgur.com/H9xhcbo |
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Did a DC powered charging base for the BF-888S HT. The charging base provided with these is 110v powered. The 3D printed base I built uses a USB-C female connector for 5v power. Attached File Attached File The source material & STL files are on printables https://www.printables.com/model/1240224-diy-charging-base-for-bf-888s-ht |
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Been doing some 3d printing, and building some stuff... Attached File |
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Current projects in list of priority 1) 2) Realign TKR-840 for an in house repeater - This project became more complicated, there is a digital audio delay board system inside this repeater, I have to replace a few SMD components that were removed when this board was installed. 3) 4) Replace the broken GMRS repeater antenna. This will likely require a bucket truck or boom lift. 5) Rehang the 10-80 endfed half wave, my rehang last year was hasty so I could run a net that week. |
| Yesterday I turned on the radio and was checking the bands on FT8 and they all seemed really crappy. So I looked out the window to check my antenna and saw that one of the wires on my G5RV Jr had broken. It had been windy. I bought some ferrules and spliced in a new piece of wire between the broken ends. Had to get on my roof and climb two trees several times in order to get it fixed. |
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Looking for another NCS-3230 or the equivalent thereof. It's a device which allows one to mix up to 6 receiver/transceiver audio inputs then pipe them to a pair of speakers in either virtual-surround or mono mode. Also gives you the ability to route audio through an ADSP unit such as the DSP-599zx or similar. The crowning feature is that any source can be selected to activate a recorder via a built-in VOX unit. There are 36 discrete signal sources in my main shack, all of which are computer controllable: 6 Bearcat analog and P-25/NXDN/DMR-capable scanners. A pair of IC-718s and 4 R-75s. Each of these combos have their own NCS-3230. That leaves the two IC-751As, 4 R-71As, 6 R-7000s, 6 PCR-1000s and 6 Optoelectronics Optocoms. I run the Optocoms and R-7000s in handoff mode with the Spectrum Commander software package, and the Optocoms can get by with their internal speakers. Used 3230s are rare as hen's teeth - and nothing else on the market offers similar functionality. So I decided to cobble my own together. A pair of Zetron 27 monitoring consoles will give me 16 channels of RX audio and a master Mute line for when I TX. To get the VOX recorder activation I plan to utilize Roland and Rolls multi-channel mixers. A Y cable from each source will go to the mixers and the Zetrons; two channels on those consoles will be reserved for post-DSP-processed audio. A pair of Bogen VAR-1s do the VOX trick. They're fed by the Line Out of the mixers. For recording a given source, I merely advance the channel gain until the VAR-1 trips reliably with every transmission. Zetrons, the mixers and a recorder will all fit in a pair of 6U desktop open-frame racks. The top 1U of each will hold a tray which will house 2ea mini-ATX signage computers (one of which I'm composing this reply on). They're VM hosts and have a bunch of I/O - perfect for the intended application. I'm probably going to grab a few more of them, perhaps some later model units. A total of 12 secondary (24 and 32 inch) displays will be supported so I can see what I'm scanning as well as hear it. |
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Originally Posted By AnalogKid: Looking for another NCS-3230 or the equivalent thereof. It's a device which allows one to mix up to 6 receiver/transceiver audio inputs then pipe them to a pair of speakers in either virtual-surround or mono mode. Also gives you the ability to route audio through an ADSP unit such as the DSP-599zx or similar. The crowning feature is that any source can be selected to activate a recorder via a built-in VOX unit. There are 36 discrete signal sources in my main shack, all of which are computer controllable: 6 Bearcat analog and P-25/NXDN/DMR-capable scanners. A pair of IC-718s and 4 R-75s. Each of these combos have their own NCS-3230. That leaves the two IC-751As, 4 R-71As, 6 R-7000s, 6 PCR-1000s and 6 Optoelectronics Optocoms. I run the Optocoms and R-7000s in handoff mode with the Spectrum Commander software package, and the Optocoms can get by with their internal speakers. Used 3230s are rare as hen's teeth - and nothing else on the market offers similar functionality. So I decided to cobble my own together. A pair of Zetron 27 monitoring consoles will give me 16 channels of RX audio and a master Mute line for when I TX. To get the VOX recorder activation I plan to utilize Roland and Rolls multi-channel mixers. A Y cable from each source will go to the mixers and the Zetrons; two channels on those consoles will be reserved for post-DSP-processed audio. A pair of Bogen VAR-1s do the VOX trick. They're fed by the Line Out of the mixers. For recording a given source, I merely advance the channel gain until the VAR-1 trips reliably with every transmission. Zetrons, the mixers and a recorder will all fit in a pair of 6U desktop open-frame racks. The top 1U of each will hold a tray which will house 2ea mini-ATX signage computers (one of which I'm composing this reply on). They're VM hosts and have a bunch of I/O - perfect for the intended application. I'm probably going to grab a few more of them, perhaps some later model units. A total of 12 secondary (24 and 32 inch) displays will be supported so I can see what I'm scanning as well as hear it. Are the schematics available for the NCS-3230 such that a clone could be built, or do they use unobtainable parts? I don't have nearly as many receive audio sources as you do, but still it would be useful to have a master control of some sort. Do you make use of some of the more exotic features such as the 'virtual surround', or are you mainly using it as an analog matrix switch (?). |
Two guns, one bullet
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Even though I'm now using loops which don't exhibit a bunch of RFI in the shack like endfeds do, I was still having occassional problems with shack RFI getting into my usb cables. Mostly would lock up my SDRPlay SDR's. I seem to have solved that by installing industrial style USB hubs for all radio to PC connections that share a ground and replacing all USB cables with Tripp-Lite which is widely recommended. No more windows beeps when I TX a Kw on 40 or 80m. I'm using 6' USB cable from hub to PC and 3' from hub to radio equipment. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MQ29B2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AK5JROK Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By targetworks: Are the schematics available for the NCS-3230 such that a clone could be built, or do they use unobtainable parts? I don't have nearly as many receive audio sources as you do, but still it would be useful to have a master control of some sort. Do you make use of some of the more exotic features such as the 'virtual surround', or are you mainly using it as an analog matrix switch (?). Yes, and yes. Problem is...the controller is PIC based and Doug didn't release the source. |
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So working on a rebuld and making my DMR repeater portable for emergency operations. This was the repeater that was on the ARFCOM talk group for a long time. Decided not to put it back on the talk group, and going to put it on Brandmeister with the other repeaters around the area. New 62 amp power supply, new fans and rack mount case with slide out shelf. Adding a switch and POE injector. Added a GMRS Duplexer for emergency operations. Attached File Going to 3d print a display mount and power pole holder for the front with a voltage monitor. Also going to add an ESP-32 on the TX radio with a dallas temp sensor for reporting to Home Assistant. Attached File And the Zum MMDVM controller on the Pi 3B+ Attached File I 3d printed some mounts for the PS with a mount that bolts to if for the PI. Also cleaning up wiring and added a track mount Power strip on the back. The RX radio is a Kenwood TK-890 and the TX radio is a TK-890H. Have it set for 2 channels, low power is set for 20w and high power is set for 40W. The radio is continuous duty 100w |
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I did another DC powered charging base, this time for a UV-K5. Attached File Like the other recent builds, it is based off the TP5100 lipo charging module. Attached File .STL files & source were placed on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1268044-uv-k5-dc-charging-base |
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Attached File Dmr Repeater is done and on air testing is going. I will get some detailed pictures when I take it off the test antenna and get it in its permanent location. I tried a WPSD image and it just would not boot. The repeater was on Pi-star 4.1.6 so I made 2 SD cards for it. I need to get an SD card extension as its a PITA to get to the card. Deployed a card with 4.2.1 but the Pi-star GUI does not work for it. So decided to keep it on 4.1.9 since it is Buster based and the GUI works. Screen is a 7” touch screen from Amazon for a whopping $35. Although I have not had the touch screen work yet it was designed more to monitor the dashboard during mobile deployments. |
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Originally Posted By stanprophet09: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_1896_jpeg-3519790.JPG Dmr Repeater is done and on air testing is going. I will get some detailed pictures when I take it off the test antenna and get it in its permanent location. I tried a WPSD image and it just would not boot. The repeater was on Pi-star 4.1.6 so I made 2 SD cards for it. I need to get an SD card extension as its a PITA to get to the card. Deployed a card with 4.2.1 but the Pi-star GUI does not work for it. So decided to keep it on 4.1.9 since it is Buster based and the GUI works. Screen is a 7” touch screen from Amazon for a whopping $35. Although I have not had the touch screen work yet it was designed more to monitor the dashboard during mobile deployments. Do you remember which monitor that is? I see at least a couple of them at that price. |
Two guns, one bullet
@targetworks 
Here is the case I used https://www.printables.com/model/980940-7-display-case And here is the link to instructions on how to install the GUI and allow local access to the web browser http://www.kd2iff.com/node/19 |
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Originally Posted By stanprophet09: @targetworks www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZGW51FY Here is the case I used https://www.printables.com/model/980940-7-display-case And here is the link to instructions on how to install the GUI and allow local access to the web browser http://www.kd2iff.com/node/19 So if you want to use the touch screen run an lsusb when the USB cable is not plugged in, then plug it in to the usb slot near the HDMI. If it is not seeing the screen I have a fix. git clone https://github.com/bsteinsbo/rpi_touch_driver ls to make sure you have the rpi_touch_driver folder if you do then cd rpi_touch_driver sudo make systemd-install That worked to get the drivers working. It is possible that it may work otherwise but not on my Raspi 3B+ running Pi-star 4.1.10 and Pistar Gui. I would also suggest shutting down the screen sleep in raspi-config and also shutting down the screen shutdown in the screen config. ETA: If you get in a situation where you click on something and are not able to get back use this in the console sudo service lightdm restart It restarts the GUI and not the entire hotspot |
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Originally Posted By stanprophet09: So if you want to use the touch screen run an lsusb when the USB cable is not plugged in, then plug it in to the usb slot near the HDMI. If it is not seeing the screen I have a fix. git clone https://github.com/bsteinsbo/rpi_touch_driver ls to make sure you have the rpi_touch_driver folder if you do then cd rpi_touch_driver sudo make systemd-install That worked to get the drivers working. It is possible that it may work otherwise but not on my Raspi 3B+ running Pi-star 4.1.10 and Pistar Gui. I would also suggest shutting down the screen sleep in raspi-config and also shutting down the screen shutdown in the screen config. ETA: If you get in a situation where you click on something and are not able to get back use this in the console sudo service lightdm restart It restarts the GUI and not the entire hotspot Thanks for the guidance - I have one on order, should arrive by the end of the week. |
Two guns, one bullet
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Originally Posted By targetworks: Thanks for the guidance - I have one on order, should arrive by the end of the week. no problem, I am not worried as much about the touch screen function but with the USB taken out to the back of the Keystone panel, it makes it easy in the field to put a keyboard or a mouse for that matter, into it and be able to use the display to make configuration changes in the field. For the most part is it almost overkill for most people, but certain people may find a benefit to this kind of setup and for the cost it is hard to beat if that is what someone is looking for. For a portable repeater I wanted something that can at least display the dashboard for monitoring, and with Pi-star remote can be controlled through RF, WiFi, or from the main display. |
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Working on a roll your own CHA8010 type antenna with some improvements. Considering offering it commercially if it works out. Attached File |