Do it yourself Kydex.... (Page 5 of 83)
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Originally Posted By Markypie:
Originally Posted By SRM:
Originally Posted By Maggot:
I work at a plastics distributor and we stock kydex. If anyone is interested in a 4'x8' sheet let me know and I can cut it into smaller pieces to ship UPS. I could get you a good deal. We don't really have any scraps because we sell by full sheets so usually cut them to 8 24x24's or like 12 16x 24's. So, what does a 4X8 sheet of black, .093 kydex cut into 12 pieces cost? SRM Yes Maggot, give us some prices to work with, Please. Bump for answer! |
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Originally Posted By 1LTfptg:
is there an easier way to flare the rivets without having to buy the $34 flare tool?  I know some people just take the $11 hand-fitter kit, and chuck it in their existing drill press, and flare rivets that way which gives you slower even pressure like the big $75 rivet press. Although you'd have to be sure that the drill press can take that kind of pressure when it's not actively drilling stock Hand fitter. And of course you could just use the $11 tool with a hammer like it's intended to be. Just tap slowly and be patient. Taking it slow and easy when you tap the rivets seems time consuming, but it's less time consuming than removing a split rivet and starting over. |
| Anybody tried any of the blades from Knifekits.com? I saw a couple of promising fixed blade blanks while I was ordering kydex..... |
Freedom is not the absence of war, but the presence of vigilance......
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
The government should fear us, not the other way around...
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
The government should fear us, not the other way around...
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Originally Posted By Aberdrew13:
Anybody tried any of the blades from Knifekits.com? I saw a couple of promising fixed blade blanks while I was ordering kydex..... I have bought one folder and one fixed blade from them! There nice knives one I sold the other the folder I'm still looking to put a handle on it!  They don't make that folder anymore so I'll have to make my own!!
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Originally Posted By Bulldawg:
I've been tinkering with some kydex lately. http://www.jdlawhon.com/knives/sheaths/morakydex01.jpg http://www.jdlawhon.com/knives/sheaths/morakydex05.jpg Looks great! How are you attaching/fashioning the clip on the back of the black ones? Can we get a picture of them from the back? Thanks |
".....it's only on the brink that people find the will to change. Only at the precipice do we evolve. This is our moment."
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Originally Posted By millsusaf:
Originally Posted By Bulldawg:
I've been tinkering with some kydex lately. http://www.jdlawhon.com/knives/sheaths/morakydex01.jpg http://www.jdlawhon.com/knives/sheaths/morakydex05.jpg Looks great! How are you attaching/fashioning the clip on the back of the black ones? Can we get a picture of them from the back? Thanks On those, the loop is a single folded and formed piece attached to the sheath via two screws through the top most eyelets. I went off of this tutorial when making those sheaths. |
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Where can I get the Rivets that I need? 1/4in but for the length of using 0.6 Kydex. |
"Get the attention of the crew and then run counter clockwise around the tank as they track you with the main gun, after the 5th time around the turret should pop off as it comes unscrewed from the hull."<gtate>
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Originally Posted By Forgetfull:
Where can I get the Rivets that I need? 1/4in but for the length of using 0.6 Kydex. These will work with both .06 and .08. http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=41_56&products_id=658 |
".....it's only on the brink that people find the will to change. Only at the precipice do we evolve. This is our moment."
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Originally Posted By millsusaf: Cool thanks, I'm looking to make a holster like Raven's and I want to be able to use IWB loops from them and Comptac and I believe Raven uses 1/4in rivets in .06 Kydex.Originally Posted By Forgetfull: Where can I get the Rivets that I need? 1/4in but for the length of using 0.6 Kydex. These will work with both .06 and .08. http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=41_56&products_id=658 |
"Get the attention of the crew and then run counter clockwise around the tank as they track you with the main gun, after the 5th time around the turret should pop off as it comes unscrewed from the hull."<gtate>
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Have any of you tried to make a kydex pouch using a existing Comp-Tac backing like this? If so, what do you use to attach the kydex part to the leather?
(I've got a gun that Comp-Tac doesn't make holsters for, and there's no good place to buy leather in my area). |
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Try Tandy Leather. I'm lucky enough to have a store on the other side of town.
As far as how to mount the kydex to the leather I'm not 100% positive as I've never personally seen a Comp-Tac but from the picture it looks like they mount the kydex with Chicago screws or the like to the leather. It looks like the studs they provide there are threaded. |
".....it's only on the brink that people find the will to change. Only at the precipice do we evolve. This is our moment."
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Has it been asked what tools everyone is using to flare their rivets/eyelets? Hand setter with anvil, press, etc?
ETA looks like Bulldawg is using the hand setter. |
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| It has. Some use hand setters some use the dies. I personally use the dies. From what I have read they put out a more uniform crimp than the hand setters. Having said that, someone earlier said they use their hand setter in a drill press which is exactly what I do with my dies. I'd say if someone goes hand setter that would be the way to go. |
".....it's only on the brink that people find the will to change. Only at the precipice do we evolve. This is our moment."
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Originally Posted By all4freedom:
Has it been asked what tools everyone is using to flare their rivets/eyelets? Hand setter with anvil, press, etc? ETA looks like Bulldawg is using the hand setter. use the hand setter method. Once I have it flared all the way, I put the rivet in a vice and clamp it down the rest of the way. |
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Have any of you tried using the heat gun?
http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=41_57&products_id=654 |
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Hey where can I get some clips? Something like what Raven or Comptac uses. I like the overhooks hooks that go over the belt. I'd make some out of spare Kydex but I've heard that making them out of regular Kydex doesn't work that well because they are prone to snapping. I don't want to pay 15$ for clips from a company so are there any do-it-yourself options? |
"Get the attention of the crew and then run counter clockwise around the tank as they track you with the main gun, after the 5th time around the turret should pop off as it comes unscrewed from the hull."<gtate>
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Originally Posted By Forgetfull:
Hey where can I get some clips? Something like what Raven or Comptac uses. I like the overhooks hooks that go over the belt. I'd make some out of spare Kydex but I've heard that making them out of regular Kydex doesn't work that well because they are prone to snapping. I don't want to pay 15$ for clips from a company so are there any do-it-yourself options? I know for a fact Comp-Tac will sell you clips and Raven might. But be warned, their clips will break too eventually. I personally make my own. In the year + I've been doing this, I've only broken one clip and it was warn almost daily for 6 months or more. |
".....it's only on the brink that people find the will to change. Only at the precipice do we evolve. This is our moment."
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Originally Posted By millsusaf: Thank you, what size Kydex do you use for clips? 0.125?Originally Posted By Forgetfull: Hey where can I get some clips? Something like what Raven or Comptac uses. I like the overhooks hooks that go over the belt. I'd make some out of spare Kydex but I've heard that making them out of regular Kydex doesn't work that well because they are prone to snapping. I don't want to pay 15$ for clips from a company so are there any do-it-yourself options? I know for a fact Comp-Tac will sell you clips and Raven might. But be warned, their clips will break too eventually. I personally make my own. In the year + I've been doing this, I've only broken one clip and it was warn almost daily for 6 months or more. |
"Get the attention of the crew and then run counter clockwise around the tank as they track you with the main gun, after the 5th time around the turret should pop off as it comes unscrewed from the hull."<gtate>
| I've got the hand setter, but I don't think I'm doing it right. My rivets always end up kind of crimped and look to be crushed in the hole in the kydex. Any instructions or vidoes floating around? |
Freedom is not the absence of war, but the presence of vigilance......
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
The government should fear us, not the other way around...
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
The government should fear us, not the other way around...
The holster and sheath are both made with .080 black Kydex as the back and .080 forest digital kydex for the front. The knife sheath has the smaller size Molle lock on it, and the holster has the larger size Molle lock on it. |
Freedom is not the absence of war, but the presence of vigilance......
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
The government should fear us, not the other way around...
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
The government should fear us, not the other way around...
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Thanks to the inspiration of this thread, I now have a replacement pocket holster for my PM40 (my Fist ultra thin holster broke).
Tools used: .060 Kydex, #6-6 black rivets (3/16"), cheap "penny-cutter" shears, Dremel with cutoff wheel, 60grit sandpaper, hammer and knifekits rivet setter tool, drill + 3/16" bit, walmart foam camping mat, cookie sheet with parchment paper for non-stick. 
Finished Product: 
Warning –– sandpaper scuffs up the slick side pretty easily. (rookie mistake) 
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Question for you guys who have done this: If I'm warming up two pieces of Kydex simultaneously but they're too big to fit side by side in the toaster oven (hey, I didn't want to buy a Kitchenaid for making holsters! ) is it OK to overlap the Kydex?
Or would it make sense to separate them with a piece of aluminum foil? If I don't hear back by the time I attempt this I might just do the foil thing. TIA |
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Beautifying the world one logo at a time since 1993.
Attention "Republicans": NO MORE COMPROMISES.
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Beautifying the world one logo at a time since 1993.
Attention "Republicans": NO MORE COMPROMISES.
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Originally Posted By Bulldawg:
More Mora knife sheaths: http://www.jdlawhon.com/knives/sheaths/morakydex07a.jpg Wow very nice! |
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Originally Posted By Bulldawg:
More Mora knife sheaths: http://www.jdlawhon.com/knives/sheaths/morakydex07a.jpg 
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Originally Posted By Bulldawg:
More Mora knife sheaths: http://www.jdlawhon.com/knives/sheaths/morakydex07a.jpg Damn, those are very professional-looking. |
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Originally Posted By Bulldawg: More Mora knife sheaths: http://www.jdlawhon.com/knives/sheaths/morakydex07a.jpg I am wondering about retention the ferro rods after they are worn down some. Do you have plans for that, how is the scabbard carried/mounted, handle down? horizontal? TIA eta: sorry see now, one has the lanyard around the ferro sheath. other questions are still open. |
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Originally Posted By Cargo:
I am wondering about retention the ferro rods after they are worn down some. Do you have plans for that, how is the scabbard carried/mounted, handle down? horizontal? TIA eta: sorry see now, one has the lanyard around the ferro sheath. other questions are still open. For something as light as a Mora, I will generally carry it from the neck. With these sheaths I've made, it would be handle-down. If I'm using the factory sheaths, I carry handle-up for obvious reasons (lack of decent retention). I did make a crossdraw belt loop that'll fit any of the sheaths I've made, and I may make more. As for the ferro rods, I generally have a piece of cord attached to them securing them in place (2nd sheath from left, as you noticed... the rest I just stuck in there for pics). If I can get my hands on some shock cord, that would be even better. |
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FWIW, Comp-Tac uses 0.090" thickness kydex.
Comp-Tac
Whereas the standard thickness of our kydex material is .125", all our IWB holsters are made from .090" sheets. We found .090” to be the ideal thickness for our IWB holsters. Anything thinner is prone to breakage. I did see another manufacturer also state that they used 0.09" kydex, but I can't seem to find it again. |
Anyone here familiar with the Kel-Tec Sub9/Sub2000 folding carbines, and perhaps the Blue Force Gear "CRASH Rig" which essentially is an overgrown shoulder holster for a folded Kel-Tec carbine? This is the best picture I've got, I know it's tiny, but it's from a defunct banner ad.
Well, I've wanted one for a long time, but Blue Force Gear has been out of production for years, and no one else has picked up production, seeing as it's kind of a niche product, and a rather "Walter Mitty" one to boot.
I've got a basic layout of how I think the unfolded Kydex should be cut. (I'll be working up exact measurements from thin cardboard against a folded Sub9 first.) 
What thickness of Kydex stock do you think I'll need? The trickiest part as I see it is going to be folding the "box" that holds the breech face of the folded carbine. How do you suggest I secure the overlapping corners? I could do a Chicago screw or similar, but I'm worried about scratching the finish. If my Kel-Tec subrifle was the newer plastic Sub2000, I wouldn't worry about it. However mine is the rarer Sub9 which had the metal receiver and breechblock, and I'd prefer not to scratch the hell out of it if I can. Ideas? |
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Originally Posted By cacafuego:
Originally Posted By Bulldawg:
More Mora knife sheaths: http://www.jdlawhon.com/knives/sheaths/morakydex07a.jpg Damn, those are very professional-looking. I second that, VERY nice work! |
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Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
Anyone here familiar with the Kel-Tec Sub9/Sub2000 folding carbines, and perhaps the Blue Force Gear "CRASH Rig" which essentially is an overgrown shoulder holster for a folded Kel-Tec carbine? This is the best picture I've got, I know it's tiny, but it's from a defunct banner ad. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t33/AJ_Dual/bfgcrash-1.jpg Well, I've wanted one for a long time, but Blue Force Gear has been out of production for years, and no one else has picked up production, seeing as it's kind of a niche product, and a rather "Walter Mitty" one to boot.
I've got a basic layout of how I think the unfolded Kydex should be cut. (I'll be working up exact measurements from thin cardboard against a folded Sub9 first.) http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t33/AJ_Dual/subholster.jpg What thickness of Kydex stock do you think I'll need? The trickiest part as I see it is going to be folding the "box" that holds the breech face of the folded carbine. How do you suggest I secure the overlapping corners? I could do a Chicago screw or similar, but I'm worried about scratching the finish. If my Kel-Tec subrifle was the newer plastic Sub2000, I wouldn't worry about it. However mine is the rarer Sub9 which had the metal receiver and breechblock, and I'd prefer not to scratch the hell out of it if I can. Ideas? Those folds are going to be a b*tch. Kydex transfers heat very easily, you can be heating one part to fold but effect another part causing it to get out of whack. I'm not trying to discourage you, just let you know it's going to be a difficult process. As for the overlapping parts maybe a large blind rivet? ETA: I'd also suggest you mill out those slits, otherwise they will look pretty rough.....unless your much more skilled with a dremel than I. hahah |
".....it's only on the brink that people find the will to change. Only at the precipice do we evolve. This is our moment."
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What would you guys suggest to get the fit to loosen up slightly?
I have a heck of a time getting the gun out. I might play the heat gun over the kydex and just slip the gun in and out a few times. Keep the retention but allowing it to break free upon yankage. Next holster will be thinner Kydex for sure. The .093 stuff is rather ...excessive. I might try a thinner sheet for the outside and the thicker stuff inside for rigidity... Who knows. I am very impressed with how easy the stuff is to work with. Getting it down to Raven Concealment-levels of perfection is gonna take a lot of time though! 
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Let's Go Red Wings!
Beautifying the world one logo at a time since 1993.
Attention "Republicans": NO MORE COMPROMISES.
Soli Deo Gloria
Beautifying the world one logo at a time since 1993.
Attention "Republicans": NO MORE COMPROMISES.
Soli Deo Gloria
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Originally Posted By millsusaf:
Those folds are going to be a b*tch. Kydex transfers heat very easily, you can be heating one part to fold but effect another part causing it to get out of whack. I'm not trying to discourage you, just let you know it's going to be a difficult process. As for the overlapping parts maybe a large blind rivet? ETA: I'd also suggest you mill out those slits, otherwise they will look pretty rough.....unless your much more skilled with a dremel than I. hahah Thanks, that's EXACTLY the kind of hint I'm looking to learn. I'm thinking since the box shape is pretty simple, what I'll do is take a wooden block cut to the size of the receiver half it'll hold and heat the tabs with a heat gun and fold them over the block. Since 90% of the Kydex will be remaining as a large plate, this will wind up as an "all heat gun" project. Also, just FYI, I don't need the mag carrier plate or the X-over buckle anymore. I have an old Galati 1911 nylon shoulder holster I found in my Grandfather's gun-things I inherited that is modular with Fastex buckles etc. So all I need to make now is the actual carrier/holster for the Kel-Tec Sub9 itself. Does anyone think I could just crimp that Kydex fold together while hot, heat welding it? How about glue? Also, all the slots are just for adjustability, so in reality, I only really need to make one slot, and I can be adjustable with the webbing instead if need be. It'll take patience, but I'm fine with slowly razoring out the slits, since this is a one-off product just for me. |
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Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
Originally Posted By millsusaf:
Those folds are going to be a b*tch. Kydex transfers heat very easily, you can be heating one part to fold but effect another part causing it to get out of whack. I'm not trying to discourage you, just let you know it's going to be a difficult process. As for the overlapping parts maybe a large blind rivet? ETA: I'd also suggest you mill out those slits, otherwise they will look pretty rough.....unless your much more skilled with a dremel than I. hahah Thanks, that's EXACTLY the kind of hint I'm looking to learn. I'm thinking since the box shape is pretty simple, what I'll do is take a wooden block cut to the size of the receiver half it'll hold and heat the tabs with a heat gun and fold them over the block. Since 90% of the Kydex will be remaining as a large plate, this will wind up as an "all heat gun" project. Also, just FYI, I don't need the mag carrier plate or the X-over buckle anymore. I have an old Galati 1911 nylon shoulder holster I found in my Grandfather's gun-things I inherited that is modular with Fastex buckles etc. So all I need to make now is the actual carrier/holster for the Kel-Tec Sub9 itself. Does anyone think I could just crimp that Kydex fold together while hot, heat welding it? How about glue? Also, all the slots are just for adjustability, so in reality, I only really need to make one slot, and I can be adjustable with the webbing instead if need be. It'll take patience, but I'm fine with slowly razoring out the slits, since this is a one-off product just for me. I think that idea would work. You will have to heat both tabs at the same time and fold quickly before the get too hard to bend. As for glues, I've done lots of reasearch on the subject. Here are two .pdf's that will guide you in the right direction. Glues Bonding I would get the box done first then glue. A syringe with a fairly large gauge needle with the glue in it would work well to work the glue in once folded. |
".....it's only on the brink that people find the will to change. Only at the precipice do we evolve. This is our moment."
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Originally Posted By Bulldawg:
More Mora knife sheaths: http://www.jdlawhon.com/knives/sheaths/morakydex07a.jpg So...............Are ya willing to part with any of these, or make a guy one? I really like the leather on, especially if it had a belt loop on the back! 
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Originally Posted By Bulldawg:
More Mora knife sheaths: http://www.jdlawhon.com/knives/sheaths/morakydex07a.jpg Those are sweet sheaths!!!! How do you get them shaped like that? Are you using a beltsander? |
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Originally Posted By indiana_leo:
So...............Are ya willing to part with any of these, or make a guy one? I really like the leather on, especially if it had a belt loop on the back!
Sorry, but no. Just making some stuff for some of my knives in desperate need. By the way, the leather sheath has both a belt loop and a trigger snap. Here's the back side. Originally Posted By banana-clip:
Those are sweet sheaths!!!! How do you get them shaped like that? Are you using a beltsander? Thanks. Yep, using a cheap-ass Harbor Freight 1x30 with the belt that came with it. |
