Posted: 9/15/2025 11:41:41 AM EDT
| From what I gather everyone seems to suggest Boiled Linseed Oil, which makes sense based on what I know of wood finishes. Is there anything that can be added for increased UV resistance? I have heard from a few old timers that oil is preferred to paints and other coatings because those will wreck your hands. I also hear Tung oil eats some peoples skin. |
|
I make a mix for just such a thing and also great for military stocks like Garands etc. You really need/want a resin component in the finish. That's where spar varnish comes into play, specifically this brand. McCloskey Marine Spar Varnish, you want the SATIN, when mixed in with the other oil, it will produce a gloss when dried if its a built up rubbed in finish. The gloss version does not do well mixed. Local stores have it, I got it at ACE, heres the stuff. Varnish Raw Linseed oil, Turpentine, Spar varnish and Japan drier. 50/50 mix the linseed and turpentine, and add about 10-20% spar varnish, and a teaspoon or so of JD, add more as required to get the drying time to a day Its thin, penetrates deeply, and dries to a finish much tougher than just BLO, and dries a little faster, either one takes a few days however this mix is UV resistant and the resin component really toughens it up. You can also just mix the BLO and SV about 80/20 but it will be THICK and not soak in as deep and takes longer to dry. You want it soaked into the wood and not a surface coating like a poly etc. you can add some turpentine to thin it down though. The driers in the BLO and SV are super slow though, so this takes longer to dry, you can add JD to this mix as well to speed it up... So sand or strip and sand the tool handle to bare wood, at least 400 grit, brush or wipe on finish, let it soak in, keep adding it until it stays wet, then let it sit an hour, wipe off excess, reapply until wet, come back in an hour and do it again until it wont soak in any more, when you see its still shiny and wet everywhere after an hour, wipe it down with a dry paper towel, let i sit a day or two to dry. Next day or two take a couple drops and spread it by hand rubbing vigorously until you feel some heat, super super thin coat, let it sit another day and either that's it or you can build up a thin finish on top of that until you get what you want. Now every year when you get done with the tool at the end of its use season, clean off all the dirt and whatever, lightly sand with 4-600 ( not through the soaked in finish!) to take care of the surface and add a few drops rubbed in again. will keep the handle protected and splinter free with a deep "in the wood" finish that's easy to maintain. you can add a drop or two as needed during use as well to maintain it until the yearly refresh. You can also wipe this on the metal of shovels, machetes, axes etc. and it will protect from rust while in storage. I put the thick version above on metal, like the vise, mill, hammers etc. to keep a barrier from rust thats not wet and is easy to clean off. |
| I just use tung oil, on tool handles and gun stocks. Way better at repelling water than BLO, and I find that I need to reapply it less often. First coat or two on virgin or neglected wood is thinned with isopropyl alcohol so it can penetrate into the wood further, quicker. |
"What is socialism? The most difficult and tortuous way to progress from capitalism to capitalism." -Stated at an intel conference, East Berlin, Oct. 1988
"Every election is a sort of advance auction sale of stolen goods." -H.L. Mencken
"Every election is a sort of advance auction sale of stolen goods." -H.L. Mencken
|
I live in the desert so this may not work in other places. When I replace a handle I set out a can of blo in the sun, no need to warm it on a stove, it gets blazing hot. Lightly burn the handle with a propane torch and then start applying blo, the first few coats will soak right in, I might get 4 coats on in an afternoon. Then the handle is good for a couple years, then maybe a light sanding and retouch with a torch before applying another couple coats. My shovels and similar tools are stored outside, hanging off the side of the shed. I'm 42 and haven't yet had to replace a handle that I put on a tool short of anything other than abuse. The handles aren't all grey and splintered either. I bought some tung oil to try a few years ago but haven't had an opportunity to try it yet, so I don't know if that would be a better option or not. |
|
Originally Posted By lew: I just use tung oil, on tool handles and gun stocks. Way better at repelling water than BLO, and I find that I need to reapply it less often. First coat or two on virgin or neglected wood is thinned with isopropyl alcohol so it can penetrate into the wood further, quicker. @lew How much do you add? |
Extorris, because he's a heartless cunt. The purity of his apathy is laboratory grade, and I sleep well knowing that he's out there somewhere,
not giving a shit about anyone or anything.
not giving a shit about anyone or anything.
| I've used nothing but boiled linseed oil. From shovels and such, to fire axes and shop tools it works well. Just sand and apply. |
"Go low, go slow and preferrably in the dark", the old Sarge.
"Every man needs at least one good rifle and know how to use it," Dad.
"Every man needs at least one good rifle and know how to use it," Dad.
|
Originally Posted By Extorris: @lew How much do you add? @Extorris Sorry for the late reply. Been up to my eyeballs in everything under the sun. For thinning, usually 50% by volume of each. Give this initial thinned coat extra time to dry so all the alcohol evaporates. |
"What is socialism? The most difficult and tortuous way to progress from capitalism to capitalism." -Stated at an intel conference, East Berlin, Oct. 1988
"Every election is a sort of advance auction sale of stolen goods." -H.L. Mencken
"Every election is a sort of advance auction sale of stolen goods." -H.L. Mencken
|
Originally Posted By lew: @Extorris Sorry for the late reply. Been up to my eyeballs in everything under the sun. For thinning, usually 50% by volume of each. Give this initial thinned coat extra time to dry so all the alcohol evaporates. Thanks. |
Extorris, because he's a heartless cunt. The purity of his apathy is laboratory grade, and I sleep well knowing that he's out there somewhere,
not giving a shit about anyone or anything.
not giving a shit about anyone or anything.