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Really want top of the line in a container? try and find a two door drive through use to import luxury cars like Jags and top of the line Mercedes.
They will be spotless inside and the second set of doors comes in handy build a bulkhead inside to put cooling/heat and plumbing through the wall or the front door and you can still lock it up completely when you leave. |
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I see some of that stuff is IKEA, but what is the make/model on that bunk bed with the pull-out sofa? Good job OP. You have an astute eye! Yes, the table and the foldable wall table are from IKEA. The bunk beds are from here ... and you will have to install them in place. Quarters are too tight to do otherwise. |
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You have an astute eye! Yes, the table and the foldable wall table are from IKEA. The bunk beds are from here ... and you will have to install them in place. Quarters are too tight to do otherwise. Quoted:
Quoted:
I see some of that stuff is IKEA, but what is the make/model on that bunk bed with the pull-out sofa? Good job OP. You have an astute eye! Yes, the table and the foldable wall table are from IKEA. The bunk beds are from here ... and you will have to install them in place. Quarters are too tight to do otherwise. Thank you! IKEA used to make a really cool full-size loft frame out of glue-lam birch, it looked a lot like the one you linked (just nothing underneath). Unfortunately, as is typical of them, they went on another cost-cutting kick and ended that model. It was MASSIVE!
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Another question: Have you considered putting roofing tin over the container itself? Something with just a little pitch to keep the rain off, but also an air gap so that the sun reflects off before even getting to the container? I don't know if it gets hot enough to be a concern, but shade alone could really cut down on the demand for the AC unit.
From what I read, containers are really expensive to work with on a $$/SF basis, but can't be beat for remote locations where security or fire resistance are a priority. check out this guy's cabin in the frozen north Also, if you want a bigger cistern tank, consider this: monolithic ecoshell The "bubble" can be purchased for about $1500 in the 8x10 size, and they are already located in TX, so shipping wouldn't be nearly as ghastly as for most of us. Once you have the bubble, any decent in-ground pool contractor should be able to shoot over your rebar. Once set, just deflate and re-use the bubble, up to 10x (I believe) before it will wear out. That's way cheaper than any poly tank of that size. You seem like a technically savvy guy OP; why pay to truck-in water when you could get it for free? TX Manual of Rainwater Harvesting Anyway, I know it's just a hunt camp, but let me dream with you for a minute OP. I'd be trying all this stuff myself if I could. ![]() ![]()
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Perhaps I missed it, but you stated it was temporary so you didn't lay down a slab? Yet it looks like you intend to make it permanent. What's the plan?
And yeah, metal is a wonderful conductor of heat (or there lackof.) So without insulation it would be hoooot in the summer and cooool in the winter Also, you state you wouldn't drink the water, yet you still use it in your mouth where salivary glands can easily absorb the water and you also use it to wash the largest organ of the body (your skin) which will also absorb contaminants. So why not drink from it as well since you go that far? |
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Another question: Have you considered putting roofing tin over the container itself? Something with just a little pitch to keep the rain off, but also an air gap so that the sun reflects off before even getting to the container? I don't know if it gets hot enough to be a concern, but shade alone could really cut down on the demand for the AC unit. From what I read, containers are really expensive to work with on a $$/SF basis, but can't be beat for remote locations where security or fire resistance are a priority. check out this guy's cabin in the frozen north Also, if you want a bigger cistern tank, consider this: monolithic ecoshell The "bubble" can be purchased for about $1500 in the 8x10 size, and they are already located in TX, so shipping wouldn't be nearly as ghastly as for most of us. Once you have the bubble, any decent in-ground pool contractor should be able to shoot over your rebar. Once set, just deflate and re-use the bubble, up to 10x (I believe) before it will wear out. That's way cheaper than any poly tank of that size. You seem like a technically savvy guy OP; why pay to truck-in water when you could get it for free? TX Manual of Rainwater Harvesting Anyway, I know it's just a hunt camp, but let me dream with you for a minute OP. I'd be trying all this stuff myself if I could. ![]() ![]() ![]() No to the tin over the container. Cost, labor, and portability are reasons I won't do this. It's a sea going shipping container, built for a water exposed environment, so the little rain that is seen out that way won't sit long until it's evaporated on the roof of the container. We don't receive enough rain or use enough water out there to incur the cost of water harvesting. If I lived out there full time and it was my property, I may have a different opinion. The totes are $75 each, and I "truck" water in from my house, so I'm not paying anyone to truck it in. I only fill this thing up a couple times a year, so I'm not inconvenienced by it. |
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Perhaps I missed it, but you stated it was temporary so you didn't lay down a slab? Yet it looks like you intend to make it permanent. What's the plan? And yeah, metal is a wonderful conductor of heat (or there lackof.) So without insulation it would be hoooot in the summer and cooool in the winter Also, you state you wouldn't drink the water, yet you still use it in your mouth where salivary glands can easily absorb the water and you also use it to wash the largest organ of the body (your skin) which will also absorb contaminants. So why not drink from it as well since you go that far? How do I intend to make it permanent? I did weld support onto the top for an awning, but a cutting torch will make quick work to undo that in the event I need to move it. The water in the tote is city water and is treated with bleach. Could I drink it, yeah, but I CHOOSE not to. Pretty simple really. That's my decision and I'm fully aware of bacteria, etc in water sources. |
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The main thing is during the winter time is to drain the lines before you leave. I forgot to drain the tankless water heater and the bladder inside ruptured due to freezing temps and destroyed the unit. Expensive lesson learned. Same thing happened with my little Eccotemp L5. Had a cold spell, forgot to drain it, gas/water valve assembly cracked. Wasn't too expensive to fix, about $55, but had to import the part from Canada. While I was troubleshooting it trying to figure out why I didn't have hot water I had a fairly large fireball shoot up, apparently some of the propane escaped through the cracked valve and ignited . Luckily I was standing right there and was able to quickly shut it off. Increased my heart rate a bit.
My L5 can't be left out in the rain, had to build a little shelter for it. Looks like your's is an L10, which I believe is outdoor rated. Is that right? Cool water set up. Those IBC totes are handy and pretty affordable, but one thing I don't like about them is that they're somewhat clear. I've seem some folks paint them. i consider getting one, but went with blue 55-gal drums instead and built a rack out of scrap lumber to hold them. Easier to handle by myself. I store drinking water in mine and hate even a hint of bleach/chlorination. |
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How do I intend to make it permanent? I did weld support onto the top for an awning, but a cutting torch will make quick work to undo that in the event I need to move it. The water in the tote is city water and is treated with bleach. Could I drink it, yeah, but I CHOOSE not to. Pretty simple really. That's my decision and I'm fully aware of bacteria, etc in water sources. Quoted:
Quoted:
Perhaps I missed it, but you stated it was temporary so you didn't lay down a slab? Yet it looks like you intend to make it permanent. What's the plan? And yeah, metal is a wonderful conductor of heat (or there lackof.) So without insulation it would be hoooot in the summer and cooool in the winter Also, you state you wouldn't drink the water, yet you still use it in your mouth where salivary glands can easily absorb the water and you also use it to wash the largest organ of the body (your skin) which will also absorb contaminants. So why not drink from it as well since you go that far? How do I intend to make it permanent? I did weld support onto the top for an awning, but a cutting torch will make quick work to undo that in the event I need to move it. The water in the tote is city water and is treated with bleach. Could I drink it, yeah, but I CHOOSE not to. Pretty simple really. That's my decision and I'm fully aware of bacteria, etc in water sources. Lot of work for temporary My ass wouldnt be moving it. |
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Same thing happened with my little Eccotemp L5. Had a cold spell, forgot to drain it, gas/water valve assembly cracked. Wasn't too expensive to fix, about $55, but had to import the part from Canada. While I was troubleshooting it trying to figure out why I didn't have hot water I had a fairly large fireball shoot up, apparently some of the propane escaped through the cracked valve and ignited . Luckily I was standing right there and was able to quickly shut it off. Increased my heart rate a bit.
My L5 can't be left out in the rain, had to build a little shelter for it. Looks like your's is an L10, which I believe is outdoor rated. Is that right? Cool water set up. Those IBC totes are handy and pretty affordable, but one thing I don't like about them is that they're somewhat clear. I've seem some folks paint them. i consider getting one, but went with blue 55-gal drums instead and built a rack out of scrap lumber to hold them. Easier to handle by myself. I store drinking water in mine and hate even a hint of bleach/chlorination. Quoted:
Quoted:
The main thing is during the winter time is to drain the lines before you leave. I forgot to drain the tankless water heater and the bladder inside ruptured due to freezing temps and destroyed the unit. Expensive lesson learned. Same thing happened with my little Eccotemp L5. Had a cold spell, forgot to drain it, gas/water valve assembly cracked. Wasn't too expensive to fix, about $55, but had to import the part from Canada. While I was troubleshooting it trying to figure out why I didn't have hot water I had a fairly large fireball shoot up, apparently some of the propane escaped through the cracked valve and ignited . Luckily I was standing right there and was able to quickly shut it off. Increased my heart rate a bit.
My L5 can't be left out in the rain, had to build a little shelter for it. Looks like your's is an L10, which I believe is outdoor rated. Is that right? Cool water set up. Those IBC totes are handy and pretty affordable, but one thing I don't like about them is that they're somewhat clear. I've seem some folks paint them. i consider getting one, but went with blue 55-gal drums instead and built a rack out of scrap lumber to hold them. Easier to handle by myself. I store drinking water in mine and hate even a hint of bleach/chlorination. Yeah, mine is outdoor rated and didn't have any issues with it except not draining it prior to a freeze and a field mouse making a nest in the exhaust stack which wasn't good. I'm tempted to build a simple wooden roof over it, but we'll see if I get bored later and want to take on another task. I'm going out there for a couple of days, any requests for specific pictures? One request was pics inside the container with a person standing up for a reference of space and height. Anything else? I'm happy to oblige. |
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Rember the size? I've read a 2" but it won't thread on my IBC. It's just a rain barrel. I'm interested in your pump also to water the garden. IIRC it was 2". If you have a non-threaded ball valve from the tote, then you need a banjo fitting that has threads which then allows you to use threaded fittings. And a negative to enclosing it in with netting or a waxing station. |
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