Posted: 6/27/2026 8:16:41 PM EDT
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I picked up a 5" 629 (-5) from Gunbroker and after the first range session, unfortunately found out someone did a bubba trigger job on it. The single action trigger is fubar. I took it to my local smith and his initial assessment is a new hammer is needed and estimates a few hours of labor to fit a new hammer. I did some quick research and it looks like if I were to source an OEM trigger and hammer, it could be a simple replace job to get it back to a factory configuration. I saw a forum post over on S&W forum that said if the gun has MIM parts, they should all be plug and play. I don't want to pay the smith big $ to custom fit parts if it's not necessary. I've had terrible customer service experiences with S&W with two different revolvers, so I'll never send them another gun to work on. Looking for guidance if anyone has thoughts or recommendations. Thanks. |
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The problem is not very well described and I fear, that is a result of poor understanding of the interaction of hammer, trigger, rebound etc. I would recommend to buy the Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual and read the pages with hammer and trigger specs. It might even be, that the hammer can be saved with a few gentle strokes on a stone to get the angles back right. I have changed a lot of hammers and triggers in several revolver brands and S&W, even pre-MIM, are among the easiest to work on. I'd say that there is a 90% chance that the hammer will drop in a work, with maybe a 75% chance of it working very well. If that does not work, the parts can still be installed by a qualified gunsmith but I do not see where a gunsmith would need hours to install and fit a hammer. FWIW, the S&W revolver assembly guys in the late 1980s got paid $3.85 to assemble one revolver completely and that included squaring the end of the barrel and fitting it to the cylinder. Just food for thought.... |
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Originally Posted By Andyd: The problem is not very well described and I fear, that is a result of poor understanding of the interaction of hammer, trigger, rebound etc. I would recommend to buy the Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual and read the pages with hammer and trigger specs. It might even be, that the hammer can be saved with a few gentle strokes on a stone to get the angles back righ. This is possible, and I would try it. As usual, moderation is important. It’s even possible a good thorough cleaning will help, and that might be all needed. |
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Originally Posted By Andyd: The problem is not very well described and I fear, that is a result of poor understanding of the interaction of hammer, trigger, rebound etc. I would recommend to buy the Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual and read the pages with hammer and trigger specs. It might even be, that the hammer can be saved with a few gentle strokes on a stone to get the angles back right. I have changed a lot of hammers and triggers in several revolver brands and S&W, even pre-MIM, are among the easiest to work on. I'd say that there is a 90% chance that the hammer will drop in a work, with maybe a 75% chance of it working very well. If that does not work, the parts can still be installed by a qualified gunsmith but I do not see where a gunsmith would need hours to install and fit a hammer. FWIW, the S&W revolver assembly guys in the late 1980s got paid $3.85 to assemble one revolver completely and that included squaring the end of the barrel and fitting it to the cylinder. Just food for thought.... The double action trigger pull appears to function just fine. It's the single action release that is the issue. If I don't intentionally pull through and hold the trigger during the single action break, the hammer and trigger will rebound, as if it was actually a double action trigger pull. If I time it correctly, I can break the single action shot and catch the hammer before it falls essentially placing the trigger and hammer in a state as if it were half way through a double action trigger pull trying to stage a double action shot, if that makes sense. At this point, it sounds like I need to source both an unmodified hammer and trigger and I can reasonably expect them to drop in without a gunsmith having to spend hours fitting parts. Also it sounds like while not optimal, custom fitting is not necessary between connecting parts of the hammer and trigger and I should still have a serviceable and safely functioning factory trigger? |
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Originally Posted By vteng10: .... At this point, it sounds like I need to source both an unmodified hammer and trigger and I can reasonably expect them to drop in without a gunsmith having to spend hours fitting parts. Also it sounds like while not optimal, custom fitting is not necessary between connecting parts of the hammer and trigger and I should still have a serviceable and safely functioning factory trigger? In my experience, most unmodified S&W triggers and hammers can be changed within the same generation without fitting, just to work. Safety and function checks, like A hammer push off test, have to be performed. There are commonly friction areas on the moving parts and sometimes alignment problems that will show after 500 rounds. When those are addressed, the action will usually become smoother. When it is not done right, the gun will display the problems that you have... I would also check the rebound slide for proper height. |
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99% of the time a new hammer drops in. The ONLY part you should mess with is the double action sear. The single action sear is fragile. However, messing with the trigger can also cause similar problems, and that can usually be fixed with a file. See the Kuhnhausen manual for specifics. The sear on tge trigger should be sharp enough to cut your finger nail. |
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Originally Posted By vteng10: I picked up a 5" 629 (-5) from Gunbroker and after the first range session, unfortunately found out someone did a bubba trigger job on it. The single action trigger is fubar. I took it to my local smith and his initial assessment is a new hammer is needed and estimates a few hours of labor to fit a new hammer. I did some quick research and it looks like if I were to source an OEM trigger and hammer, it could be a simple replace job to get it back to a factory configuration. I saw a forum post over on S&W forum that said if the gun has MIM parts, they should all be plug and play. I don't want to pay the smith big $ to custom fit parts if it's not necessary. I've had terrible customer service experiences with S&W with two different revolvers, so I'll never send them another gun to work on. Looking for guidance if anyone has thoughts or recommendations. Thanks. Sigh. Fortunately, I do know my way around Smith REvolvers but I do NOT want to have to re-time this gorgeous gun. I seem to be VERY fortunate as the hammer and trigger sear surfaces are more "polished" than re-cut. Case hardening (this is a first gen 610 so it is case hardened and flash chromed as far as the guts go) is generally around 10 thousandths thick so it is not overly jacked up. I can save this, I think. I also noticed that the rebound slide spring had been clipped by a coil and a half. It should be ground on both ends not open on one end. This could be my saving grace. I added pressure to the trigger from behind and I can get the system to lock up nicely and it passes the "push off" test. I have ordered a new rebound spring (standard 18-19 lbf weight) and I am hoping this does the trick by adding trigger force in excess of the hammer/mainspring force. If this doesn't work...I am right back in that same boat as you. Wish me luck.  People. For the love of all that is Holy...stay OUT OF REVOLVER GUTS...99 PERCENT OF YOU RETARDS HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!! |
"Such predicaments! I must forge ahead!"
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Hey @vteng10: I got REALLLY lucky. As I mentioned, the guy that had my 610 before me had polished the single and double action contact surfaces and had clipped half a coil or more from each end of an already lighter aftermarket spring. I just put in a factory 18 pound rebound slide spring and I am back in business. No more push off..and I got mean with it. I also closely inspected (again) the single and double action surfaces and was relieved to find that polishing was all that was done. Before you go too far, see if just a rebound slide spring will work for you. If you haven't taken Smiths apart before, let me know I can give you some tips like" ALWAYS TAKE THE PRESSURE OFF OF THE MAINSPRING BEFORE REMOVING THE SIDE PLATE. That is actually very important. Whew! I am so relieved!!!! |
"Such predicaments! I must forge ahead!"
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Originally Posted By desertmoon: Hey @vteng10: I got REALLLY lucky. As I mentioned, the guy that had my 610 before me had polished the single and double action contact surfaces and had clipped half a coil or more from each end of an already lighter aftermarket spring. I just put in a factory 18 pound rebound slide spring and I am back in business. No more push off..and I got mean with it. I also closely inspected (again) the single and double action surfaces and was relieved to find that polishing was all that was done. Before you go too far, see if just a rebound slide spring will work for you. If you haven't taken Smiths apart before, let me know I can give you some tips like" ALWAYS TAKE THE PRESSURE OFF OF THE MAINSPRING BEFORE REMOVING THE SIDE PLATE. That is actually very important. Whew! I am so relieved!!!! One thing I realized when I was replacing the hand (see other thread) is that sometimes the hand rubs up against the ratchet too much when the trigger tries to reset and the hand withdraws. It's not a bad idea to put a drop of oil on the ratchet. |
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Originally Posted By desertmoon: Hey @vteng10: I got REALLLY lucky. As I mentioned, the guy that had my 610 before me had polished the single and double action contact surfaces and had clipped half a coil or more from each end of an already lighter aftermarket spring. I just put in a factory 18 pound rebound slide spring and I am back in business. No more push off..and I got mean with it. I also closely inspected (again) the single and double action surfaces and was relieved to find that polishing was all that was done. Before you go too far, see if just a rebound slide spring will work for you. If you haven't taken Smiths apart before, let me know I can give you some tips like" ALWAYS TAKE THE PRESSURE OFF OF THE MAINSPRING BEFORE REMOVING THE SIDE PLATE. That is actually very important. Whew! I am so relieved!!!! Really appreciate the update. Haven’t been able to get back to this yet. I’m hoping to get it to another local gunsmith soon. I’ll check the rebound spring before I do that. |
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Originally Posted By 80sgyrene: I have done it before with success. Older K and L frames. IIRC I got the parts off Ebay. I have also mixed and matched. At this point what do you have to lose?  |
Don't be so open-minded that your brains fall out.
General education should not be mere job training, but training in how to be fully human.
General education should not be mere job training, but training in how to be fully human.
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Originally Posted By MRW: This is my K-frame that I put a smooth trigger in, plug and play ebay factory take-off https://i.imgur.com/43GYeVm.jpg |
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Originally Posted By vteng10: Really appreciate the update. Haven't been able to get back to this yet. I'm hoping to get it to another local gunsmith soon. I'll check the rebound spring before I do that. |
"Such predicaments! I must forge ahead!"