Posted: 1/9/2026 3:57:24 PM EDT
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I saw a P09 c for ~$500 and it has caught my attention, but I'm not super familiar with the P-07/P-09 guns. Are these worth owning? I'm more of a SAO guy and would probably just run it with the manual thumb safeties and only play with the DA/SA at the range infrequently. From doing some research, it looks like the P-09 has the following benefits: -Omega trigger system with interchangeable decocker and manual safety. I would probably never install the decocker. -Good CZ ergonomics. -RMSc optic-ready slide. -Good carry weight and size. I may not put it in the "rotation" though. And the following disadvantages/negatives: -Trigger return spring breakage. Possible solution of CGW reduced power trigger return spring. -Firing Pin retaining can break from excessive dry fire. Possible solutions are snap caps or CGW retaining pin. -Lanyard loop is less than ideal. Possible solutions deal with it or maybe there's a replacement part without the lanyard. -Slide stop breakage at higher round counts?? What am I missing? Are the parts actually a concern? If I'm not a big double action guy is this really a good choice? |
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Originally Posted By bluedog82: I’ve got one out for review and I like it. Trigger is not great even in SA, very long and heavy in DA; I prefer a basic Glock trigger to it. Just under 500rds so far and no issues. Could you please elaborate on the trigger being not great in SA? Is the SA trigger pull less preferable to a Glock or just the overall DA/SA average pull experience? Although, I'm not really a trigger snob, I kind of expect a SA hammer-fired trigger to at least be decent (better than a Glock trigger). |
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Originally Posted By NN300BLK: Could you please elaborate on the trigger being not great in SA? Is the SA trigger pull less preferable to a Glock or just the overall DA/SA average pull experience? Although, I'm not really a trigger snob, I kind of expect a SA hammer-fired trigger to at least be decent (better than a Glock trigger). Even in SA it’s very long, like 1cm or so. I think the weight is in the 5-6lbs range? It’s smoother than a Glock in SA but still long and not very light. |
| I have one but do not have many rounds through it. I am hoping the trigger will smooth out with use. If not I will pay the dough for a Cajun kit. I wanted a smaller hammer fired piece with a rail. There are not really options right now for a holser with a light, which I was not counting on. I have a few sets of 8/8 sig sights i can put on. I like the way it feels and handles. Shoots well enough for medium sized hands. I am glad I bought it. |
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Originally Posted By bluedog82: Even in SA it’s very long, like 1cm or so. I think the weight is in the 5-6lbs range? It’s smoother than a Glock in SA but still long and not very light. The weight is not out of the realm of reasonability for a defensive pistol (on the high-end for a SA though), but that pull length seems pretty long-- I think there are striker-fired guns with a shorter overall pull. I imagine it is easy enough to shoot, but if I were to actually use it more or less as a SAO pistol, that's not great and I may be better off getting a SAO pistol... |
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Originally Posted By 390ish: I have one but do not have many rounds through it. I am hoping the trigger will smooth out with use. If not I will pay the dough for a Cajun kit. I wanted a smaller hammer fired piece with a rail. There are not really options right now for a holser with a light, which I was not counting on. I have a few sets of 8/8 sig sights i can put on. I like the way it feels and handles. Shoots well enough for medium sized hands. I am glad I bought it. I wonder if the Pro-Grade Upgrade Kit clears most of the less-than-ideal-trigger characteristics up. But for that kind of additional money and considering my SA preference, would I be better just putting that money toward a SA geared gun like a Shadow 2 or Hi Power clone? But as you pointed out, that is still sub-$800 or $850 and there's not a lot in the compact hammer-fired pistol with a rail for that price point. |
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Originally Posted By bluedog82: I’ve got one out for review and I like it. Trigger is not great even in SA, very long and heavy in DA; I prefer a basic Glock trigger to it. Just under 500rds so far and no issues. I think Glock triggers are dogshit compared to the CZ Omega. But I prefer crisp to light. I don't mind a slightly heavy trigger as long as it's not mushy or gritty. I think my P07 has the best CZ duty trigger I've ever owned except for the ones I got Cajunized. But that's excluding the Shadows and competition guns. |
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Stripping it down to pins and springs and polishing EVERYTHING including the pins and trigger bar and adding the reduced power trigger return spring from CGW alone will make a difference ! And don’t forget to “ tweak “ your trigger bar return spring to about here … Attached File You maybe can go a little lower down … I actually did the above and put it back together and then said screw it and went all in on the Short Reset Kit and the CZ hammer. It’s not that hard to do and you can find excellent videos on the Utube on how to do it ! Attached File In single action you’re still going to have that take up … But man that trigger pull is smooth as glass. I don’t have a pull gauge but I would estimate it at about 3 1/2 pounds. |
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Originally Posted By Glockadoodadoo: Stripping it down to pins and springs and polishing EVERYTHING including the pins and trigger bar and adding the reduced power trigger return spring from CGW alone will make a difference ! And don’t forget to “ tweak “ your trigger bar return spring to about here … https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/158126/IMG_2355_jpeg-3692569.JPG You maybe can go a little lower down … I actually did the above and put it back together and then said screw it and went all in on the Short Reset Kit and the CZ hammer. It’s not that hard to do and you can find excellent videos on the Utube on how to do it ! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/158126/IMG_1395_jpeg-3692568.JPG In single action you’re still going to have that take up … But man that trigger pull is smooth as glass. I don’t have a pull gauge but I would estimate it at about 3 1/2 pounds. I am definitely tempted to try this and/or get some CGW parts out. |
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Originally Posted By 390ish: I have one but do not have many rounds through it. I am hoping the trigger will smooth out with use. If not I will pay the dough for a Cajun kit. I wanted a smaller hammer fired piece with a rail. There are not really options right now for a holser with a light, which I was not counting on. I have a few sets of 8/8 sig sights i can put on. I like the way it feels and handles. Shoots well enough for medium sized hands. I am glad I bought it. Fits P320 holster pretty darn well FYI. Fits in my Safariland light bearing nicely. |
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Originally Posted By Glockadoodadoo: Stripping it down to pins and springs and polishing EVERYTHING including the pins and trigger bar and adding the reduced power trigger return spring from CGW alone will make a difference ! And don’t forget to “ tweak “ your trigger bar return spring to about here … https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/158126/IMG_2355_jpeg-3692569.JPG You maybe can go a little lower down … I actually did the above and put it back together and then said screw it and went all in on the Short Reset Kit and the CZ hammer. It’s not that hard to do and you can find excellent videos on the Utube on how to do it ! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/158126/IMG_1395_jpeg-3692568.JPG In single action you’re still going to have that take up … But man that trigger pull is smooth as glass. I don’t have a pull gauge but I would estimate it at about 3 1/2 pounds. That sounds very do-able and the take-up in of itself isn't unreasonable-- it just seems long for a SA-- but I'm a bit of a 1911 fanboy so I also appreciate that my expectations are completely unreasonable in that regard.  The short reset kit pricing seems really reasonable compared to the other kits-- I don't think it is necessary to replace the hammer as would be done with the pro-kit for example-- especially on a $500ish gun. |
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I did the trigger bar polish but also grabbed some CGW parts. The stock trigger press was crunchy as hell, but with the parts an labor, it's VERY nice. the MCARBO and CGW videos are outstanding sources. I also modified a P320 Safariland ALS/SLS to work with it. Had to trim up the ALS mechanism a bit to clear things (especially the Vortex Defender Enclosed optic that projects forward a bit) and grab an SLS strap from an M9 holster so that it didn't rub the hammer spur, but right now it fits and locks up great with the ALS and SLS systems with both a TLR-7 HL-X and a TLR-1HL. |
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I had a second gen P07 with CGW short (er) reset carry trigger, had standard and threaded barrels for it. It was an outstanding pistol. The newest iteration (P09/c) adds better texture and optic cuts. Only thing I didn't like was the safety, it didn't feel like a 1911 safety so I didn't use it. The CGW trigger took some break in but smoothed out to be very very nice in DA and SA. The gun also shot very flat. All that said, a bone stock P10 was every bit as accurate and nice to shoot for less money than a cajunized P07. |
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Originally Posted By drew5337: I had a second gen P07 with CGW short (er) reset carry trigger, had standard and threaded barrels for it. It was an outstanding pistol. The newest iteration (P09/c) adds better texture and optic cuts. Only thing I didn't like was the safety, it didn't feel like a 1911 safety so I didn't use it. The CGW trigger took some break in but smoothed out to be very very nice in DA and SA. The gun also shot very flat. All that said, a bone stock P10 was every bit as accurate and nice to shoot for less money than a cajunized P07. Could you please elaborate about the safety? I see it's positioned more or less like a 1911's, but it looks really low profile and kind of smooth texture. Low profile is okay, but a requirement for me is that it takes intent to engage/disengage while being easy to disengage when I want to. I'd rather have no safety than a safety that I can't disengage when I need to-- which has actually discouraged me from buying some other pistols in the past. |
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I have a P-09 F and a P-09 C. I bough the full size first . The trigger was just "meh" compared to my Beretta triggers that have been upgraded with the Beretta factory "Xtreme-S" upgrade kit. I installed the lighter trigger return spring, lighter hammer spring and lighter firing pin safety spring from CGW and polished the internals and it was hugely improved. I later got the compact version and before I did anything, I measured the trigger pull and it was right around 5 pounds. After a few hours of dry firing it in DA and cocking the hammer for SA, probably 800 or a thousand times, followed by a disassembly and polish, the trigger pull measured a full pound lighter right at 4 pounds. Still heavy for a competition gun, but as a carry gun it's great, and all the springs and parts are factory. The really surprising thing for me was this was the first time I measured a trigger pull on a brand new gun and then measured it after lots of dry fire to see if the trigger really would "smooth out" with use. Well, it absolutely does, and by around 20%! People complain about a long reset, but it feels fine to me. Not as nice as my modded Beretta, but not worth buying the short reset parts, IMO. Anyhow, I wish they were cut for a larger optic, but the EPS carry fits and looks good. Mags are hard to find, but regular 1st gen P-09 mags fit and function perfectly and are available. It seems nobody makes a competition holster for the Nocturnes so I rolled the dice and ordered a Blade Tech classic pouch for the 1st gen P-09 and the Nocturne fits. The retention is good, but you don't feel as much of a positive "snap" when you seat the gun in the holster. There are some subtle differences that probably account for this, but the fit is so close I don't think it really matters. The compact Nocturne has more available holster options than the full size. They come from the factory with the decocker installed, but the safety isn't hard to swap out. They also come with 3 different back straps so maybe spend some time and see which one works best for you. The lanyard loop is hardly noticeable. I don't know why anyone would be bothered by it. It's not in the way of anything and the magazine base mostly protects it from hitting stuff. For dry fire, the gun does come with a dummy round in the package. Someone mentioned slipping an O ring into the back of the slide around the back end of the firing pin to cushion the hammer for dry fire. I use this method in combination with a snap cap to protect the firing pin retaining pin. When I had the slide apart to install the CGW parts, I did notice some slight peening on the factory FP retaining pin so I installed the CGW version and now I use the O ring trick. The "night sights" are just luminescent, not tritium, so they need to be charged with a bright light, and the glow fades pretty quickly. |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: Wow. That must be a personal preference thing. I think Glock triggers are dogshit compared to the CZ Omega. But I prefer crisp to light. I don't mind a slightly heavy trigger as long as it's not mushy or gritty. I think my P07 has the best CZ duty trigger I've ever owned except for the ones I got Cajunized. But that's excluding the Shadows and competition guns. Originally Posted By dmk0210: Originally Posted By bluedog82: I’ve got one out for review and I like it. Trigger is not great even in SA, very long and heavy in DA; I prefer a basic Glock trigger to it. Just under 500rds so far and no issues. I think Glock triggers are dogshit compared to the CZ Omega. But I prefer crisp to light. I don't mind a slightly heavy trigger as long as it's not mushy or gritty. I think my P07 has the best CZ duty trigger I've ever owned except for the ones I got Cajunized. But that's excluding the Shadows and competition guns. I suspect one additional factor may be at play here - a wide variation in trigger quality from one factory P07/P09 pistol to the next. My uncle has a P09 that has an excellent factory trigger, both DA and SA. When I bought a P09 for myself, I was quite disappointed to find that mine has a very poor SA trigger, extremely gritty (and also long), to the point that I don't find the gun pleasant to shoot. A good bit of internet searching seems to support my theory that the triggers just vary a lot and it's the luck of the draw on whether you get a good, mediocre, or bad one. I eventually plan to buy & install an aftermarket (Cajun) hammer, which I've been told should help a lot. |
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Originally Posted By Jambalaya: I have a P-09 F and a P-09 C. I bough the full size first . The trigger was just "meh" compared to my Beretta triggers that have been upgraded with the Beretta factory "Xtreme-S" upgrade kit. I installed the lighter trigger return spring, lighter hammer spring and lighter firing pin safety spring from CGW and polished the internals and it was hugely improved. I later got the compact version and before I did anything, I measured the trigger pull and it was right around 5 pounds. After a few hours of dry firing it in DA and cocking the hammer for SA, probably 800 or a thousand times, followed by a disassembly and polish, the trigger pull measured a full pound lighter right at 4 pounds. Still heavy for a competition gun, but as a carry gun it's great, and all the springs and parts are factory. The really surprising thing for me was this was the first time I measured a trigger pull on a brand new gun and then measured it after lots of dry fire to see if the trigger really would "smooth out" with use. Well, it absolutely does, and by around 20%! People complain about a long reset, but it feels fine to me. Not as nice as my modded Beretta, but not worth buying the short reset parts, IMO. Anyhow, I wish they were cut for a larger optic, but the EPS carry fits and looks good. Mags are hard to find, but regular 1st gen P-09 mags fit and function perfectly and are available. It seems nobody makes a competition holster for the Nocturnes so I rolled the dice and ordered a Blade Tech classic pouch for the 1st gen P-09 and the Nocturne fits. The retention is good, but you don't feel as much of a positive "snap" when you seat the gun in the holster. There are some subtle differences that probably account for this, but the fit is so close I don't think it really matters. The compact Nocturne has more available holster options than the full size. They come from the factory with the decocker installed, but the safety isn't hard to swap out. They also come with 3 different back straps so maybe spend some time and see which one works best for you. The lanyard loop is hardly noticeable. I don't know why anyone would be bothered by it. It's not in the way of anything and the magazine base mostly protects it from hitting stuff. For dry fire, the gun does come with a dummy round in the package. Someone mentioned slipping an O ring into the back of the slide around the back end of the firing pin to cushion the hammer for dry fire. I use this method in combination with a snap cap to protect the firing pin retaining pin. When I had the slide apart to install the CGW parts, I did notice some slight peening on the factory FP retaining pin so I installed the CGW version and now I use the O ring trick. The "night sights" are just luminescent, not tritium, so they need to be charged with a bright light, and the glow fades pretty quickly. Thank you for the very detailed response @Jambalaya! The nice thing about the DA functionality is that you can put a snap cap in (and that O ring trick) and just start pulling on that trigger until you've mastered the DA trigger and it is worn in-- I usually do it the hard way of shooting a couple hundred dollars of ammo. Your point of that if I buy it, I need to try it before ordering a bunch of Cajun parts is very good advice-- based on your experience and the aggregate of the responses (as @pctech said), I might end up with a nice trigger from the factory, I may not. (I wonder if it has something to do with the action timing roller?) The luminescent sights are fine-- the tritium vials are great, but they are 10 year wear items that require a GS or a sight-pusher. A lot of manufacturers also seem to be just shipping with a front night sight only anyway-- which is better than nothing, but not great. Is the factory dry fire snap cap better than a tipton or equivalent? I have a lifetime supply of the latter. |
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Originally Posted By NN300BLK: Thank you for the very detailed response @Jambalaya! The nice thing about the DA functionality is that you can put a snap cap in (and that O ring trick) and just start pulling on that trigger until you've mastered the DA trigger and it is worn in-- I usually do it the hard way of shooting a couple hundred dollars of ammo. Your point of that if I buy it, I need to try it before ordering a bunch of Cajun parts is very good advice-- based on your experience and the aggregate of the responses (as @pctech said), I might end up with a nice trigger from the factory, I may not. (I wonder if it has something to do with the action timing roller?) The luminescent sights are fine-- the tritium vials are great, but they are 10 year wear items that require a GS or a sight-pusher. A lot of manufacturers also seem to be just shipping with a front night sight only anyway-- which is better than nothing, but not great. Is the factory dry fire snap cap better than a tipton or equivalent? I have a lifetime supply of the latter. As for the trigger feel, in DA the biggest effect will be the smoothness of the roller and trigger bar where they make contact, and the hammer spring weight. The trigger return spring and firing pin safety spring will affect it to a lesser extent. In single action, the sear/hammer hook interface and the hammer spring weight will have the most effect, with the aforementioned trigger return and FP safety springs having a lesser effect. A long, gritty trigger pull with creep means that the hammer hook face is taller and the sear has to scrape across a longer distance before releasing. I don't have a match hammer to compare, but I have read that the CGW hammer hook isn't as tall as the factory version, which of course will reduce creep. For carry, I wouldn't change any factory parts, just break in, polish, clean and lube. For competition I'd do the full on CGW parts swap. |
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Originally Posted By Jambalaya: I am using some solid steel weighted snap caps from Amazon, along with the O ring. I have tried a laser cartridge with the O ring and the O ring is effective enough on its own to stop the firing pin from acrivating the laser cartridge. I just use the snap cap for backup. As for the trigger feel, in DA the biggest effect will be the smoothness of the roller and trigger bar where they make contact, and the hammer spring weight. The trigger return spring and firing pin safety spring will affect it to a lesser extent. In single action, the sear/hammer hook interface and the hammer spring weight will have the most effect, with the aforementioned trigger return and FP safety springs having a lesser effect. A long, gritty trigger pull with creep means that the hammer hook face is taller and the sear has to scrape across a longer distance before releasing. I don't have a match hammer to compare, but I have read that the CGW hammer hook isn't as tall as the factory version, which of course will reduce creep. For carry, I wouldn't change any factory parts, just break in, polish, clean and lube. For competition I'd do the full on CGW parts swap. Interesting. That makes a lot of sense (I haven't had a chance to pull up the exploded view, so I'm sorry if that was a stupid guess above). So, like on a 1911, I wouldn't want a hammer that had shorter hammer hooks than the "factory" (mil spec on the 1911) since I would carry this at least some of the time. I'd probably just want to get a spare of the wear items, see if I could change out the lanyard loop for a flush one, and enjoy the platform. And crucially, it sounds like based on the mixed experience on the SA trigger in this thread, I would probably want to go to the LGS and try the trigger of the actual firearm I'm buying even if I end up paying a little more. |
| Mine has a weird "click" after trigger decks when any pressure is applied to the trigger, almost as it the hammer and sear aren't properly aligned until just the slightest amount of movement happens then it "clicks" in. Apparently normal . |
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I have a relative with a new P09C. He loves it. His XD, 1911, M&P, Kimber pistols are going in the safe and he's going to be carrying the P09C. He's already got an optic on it and ordered some additional magazines. He said it is the most accurate pistol he's had so far. I have P07 and P09 pistols in 9MM and .40 S&W. Haven't broken one yet. Zero broken firing pin retaining pins (when I dry fire I use a snap cap or o-ring). Zero broken trigger return springs (ran the factory springs for 8 or 9 years and then put CGW reduced power firing pin return springs and firing pin block springs in them.) Zero issues with the thumb safeties (don't run them any other way). Zero issues with the slide lock levers. Does this cover all the "expected" problems some people have and lots of people repeat mentioning? Triggers, I've been told, can be iffy. One can be great and the next not so much. Most people report a complete tear down, clean up and polishing of the right parts before lubing them up and putting them back together results in a darned nice trigger feel/pull. I don't know, haven't had to do that yet. My first P07 .40 S&W came out of the box with a 3&1/4 lb. SA trigger pull that is very nice/crisp. My first P09 9MM was almost as nice. My P09 .40 wasn't quite as good as the P09 9MM but I never felt the need to upgrade or polish it. I could tell it's not quite as nice as the first two, but it's plenty good enough. The first P07 .40 was down to 3 lb. SA the last time I measured it. It's a DUTY model (first P07's they made) and I shot it and carried it for about 10 or 11 years. I'd be carrying it today if my wife could remember to get some spare mags/ammo packed for her pistol when we go on road trips. I've ended up carrying a gun that uses the same mags as the one she carries so I know she'll have spare mags. if needed. I pack plenty. My last P07 9MM just didn't have the nice triggers the first three plastic framed Omegas had. An aftermarket trigger from CZ USA went a long ways to correcting that. Double action pull? Who cares. I don't carry or shoot them that way. First thing I do when I get home with a new one is field strip it and install the thumb safeties. The Omegas with decocker levers moving out of the pistol frame were some of the early P01 Omega pistols. I've never heard of the P07/P09/Nocturne pistols having that issue. I think (just my opinion) that many of the CZs lock up so tight it can contribute to the slide lock lever shaft breaking. Maybe, especially when the owner install a low powered recoil spring to shoot low powered ammo and the frame/slide lock pin get hammered harder. Like I said, my old P07 DUTY is 13 or 14 years old now and is still so tight I can't push the slide lock lever pin out without using the corner of a magazine to get it started. Then I still have to pull/wiggle, pull/wiggle, a few times to get it out far enough to be loose enough to just pull on out of the frame. There are guys on the CZ Forum that say they have upwards of 30,000 rounds through their metal framed CZ pistols without ever breaking a trigger return spring, firing pin retaining pin or slide lock lever. My P09 9MM is still the most accurate center fire semi auto I've ever shot. My P07 .40 is close. My P07 and P09 have spoiled me so bad it's really difficult to get another pistol that can satisfy my internal accuracy needs. As others mentioned. Lots of good videos on you tube on how to detail disassemble one and polish up the parts and then get it back together again. I had my slides milled and dot optics installed years ago so I don't see the need for a Nocturne for myself. I will add, for some reason, all my CZ 9MM pistols seem to shoot 115 grain ammo better than 147 grain ammo. I've not shot a lot of 124 grain ammo through mine but guys on the CZ Forum say the 124 ammo is great for accuracy and function. Good luck with yours if you get one. |
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Good post above. ^^^^ I forgot to mention, my Nocturnes will drop the slide with a vigorous mag insertion. It doesn't have to be violently hard, but if you smack the mag in good, the slide catch is heavy and long enough to drop by inertia. |
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@M1A4ME, thank you for the great review of the platform! I'd run it more or less the same way-- I sweep off the safety from muscle memory whether or not the particle pistol in my hand has one-- the SAO manual of arms is second nature to me now. I'll probably hold off on the spare parts the more I think about it-- if this was someone's only pistol then, yeah, they should have them, but anyone that has at least one other pistol probably doesn't need them. I've wanted a CZ-75 variant for years and I think I'll treat myself to a Nocturne in the future-- it seems to check most of the boxes. Once again, thank you everyone for taking your time to bring me up to speed on the platform, I really appreciate it! |
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I have a P09 F Nocturne and have about five hundred rounds through mine. When I got it, the trigger was meh, even in single action. I ordered the MCARBO kit for it. I polished the firing pin safety plunger, replace that spring with the MCARBO spring, and I replaced the hammer spring with the reduced power one from MCARBO kit. I didn't do the complete polish job on the frame parts like the video showed. Anyway, when I test fired it I was get multiple light strikes on PPU 124 gr ammo. I put the factory hammer spring back in and my problem was solved. At this point the trigger was okay so I left everything as is. Doing this and 500 rounds has made the Roger acceptable, but I'm not a trigger snob either. I did take a peek at the CJW short reset kit and it looks appealing. However the tech note on that kit says you have to use one of their reduced power hammer springs so that will put the kit at over $100. I'll just leave my trigger be. I do wish CGW would sell a replacement for the factory decocker levers. The plastic factory one just feels a little flimsy to me and I would love to have a metal option, even if it was pricy. Edit, I bought a Crimson Trace red dot, on sale, from PSA for around $100. So far it has done well on my P09. It's not a great dot that is equal to my Trijicons or Holosun, but it was cheap. |
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For what it's worth, I never replace a factory hammer spring or striker spring with a lighter spring. I'm not a competitor. I do carry my guns and I want to be sure they'll light off any ammo I may have to load into a magazine. The guys on the CZ Forum have "said" more than a coupe times during discussions that swapping to a lighter hammer spring really doesn't do anything to improve a SA trigger pull. It helps with a DA trigger pull. Their experience is that moving to a lighter hammer spring can result in a less crisp SA trigger pull. I've disassembled a brand new CZ pistol (one of those semi rare compacts marked CZ75 Compact on the slide but with the P01 style (steel) frame. Right out of the box the firing pin retaining pin was visibly damaged/dented. No more than it was fired at the factory (dry or test firing?) the firing pin had made enough hard contact with the retaining pin to dent it in. There's a reason for the "soft" firing pin retaining pin in the CZ75 design. The pin is required to hold the firing pin in the slide. Can't just remove it. Any damage is due to the back side of the retaining pin notch in the firing pin striking the retaining pin during forward movement. Metal striking metal. What do you want to damage? A cheap (cost) pin or a firing pin? One way to "keep an eye" on firing pin retaining pin damage is to find the right sized drill bit (or buy a pin gauge set) that will fit through the hole in the center of the retaining pin. When you clean the pistol grab that drill bit and push it through the retaining pin center hole. If it gets to the point where the drill bit hangs up then it might be a good time to replace that pin. I think it's always a good idea to have a few spare parts for your gun, if you figure you can replace them as needed. If you don't feel you can get it apart, figure out what is wrong and correct that then maybe the spare parts aren't going to do you much good anyway. I've got spare parts for every CZ I own (several). Never used any of them yet due to breakage/malfunction. That's also true for the other heavy use pistols (M&P) that I own/carry/shoot. Better to have it and not need it that to need it and not have it. My first CZ is that old DUTY .40 S&W. That is such and awesome pistol (and my carry gun for 11 or 12 years) that I really felt the need for a back up for that one pistol. CZ no longer makes standard carry pistols in .40 S&W. A year or so back I walked into a local gun show and the second table I looked at the guy had a brand new in the box DUTY .40 S&W P07. I bought it. Brought it home, field stripped it, wiped it down with amy standard oily rag, put it back together and put it away. The magazines had .40 S&W stickers on them still (so new I guess they felt the need to put an label on them so people didn't get them mixed up with the 9MM P07 magazines. |
How you live your life is important. Just be sure the memory of how you died doesn't overshadow the tales of how you lived your life.
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Originally Posted By M1A4ME: For what it's worth, I never replace a factory hammer spring or striker spring with a lighter spring. I'm not a competitor. I do carry my guns and I want to be sure they'll light off any ammo I may have to load into a magazine. The guys on the CZ Forum have "said" more than a coupe times during discussions that swapping to a lighter hammer spring really doesn't do anything to improve a SA trigger pull. It helps with a DA trigger pull. Their experience is that moving to a lighter hammer spring can result in a less crisp SA trigger pull. I've disassembled a brand new CZ pistol (one of those semi rare compacts marked CZ75 Compact on the slide but with the P01 style (steel) frame. Right out of the box the firing pin retaining pin was visibly damaged/dented. No more than it was fired at the factory (dry or test firing?) the firing pin had made enough hard contact with the retaining pin to dent it in. There's a reason for the "soft" firing pin retaining pin in the CZ75 design. The pin is required to hold the firing pin in the slide. Can't just remove it. Any damage is due to the back side of the retaining pin notch in the firing pin striking the retaining pin during forward movement. Metal striking metal. What do you want to damage? A cheap (cost) pin or a firing pin? One way to "keep an eye" on firing pin retaining pin damage is to find the right sized drill bit (or buy a pin gauge set) that will fit through the hole in the center of the retaining pin. When you clean the pistol grab that drill bit and push it through the retaining pin center hole. If it gets to the point where the drill bit hangs up then it might be a good time to replace that pin. I think it's always a good idea to have a few spare parts for your gun, if you figure you can replace them as needed. If you don't feel you can get it apart, figure out what is wrong and correct that then maybe the spare parts aren't going to do you much good anyway. I've got spare parts for every CZ I own (several). Never used any of them yet due to breakage/malfunction. That's also true for the other heavy use pistols (M&P) that I own/carry/shoot. Better to have it and not need it that to need it and not have it. My first CZ is that old DUTY .40 S&W. That is such and awesome pistol (and my carry gun for 11 or 12 years) that I really felt the need for a back up for that one pistol. CZ no longer makes standard carry pistols in .40 S&W. A year or so back I walked into a local gun show and the second table I looked at the guy had a brand new in the box DUTY .40 S&W P07. I bought it. Brought it home, field stripped it, wiped it down with amy standard oily rag, put it back together and put it away. The magazines had .40 S&W stickers on them still (so new I guess they felt the need to put an label on them so people didn't get them mixed up with the 9MM P07 magazines. The XD has the same problem with the retaining pin if you dry fire it without snap caps, but that's a good idea using the drill bit/gauge (I wish I thought of that ). I'm not opposed to having spare parts (especially magazine and recoil springs), but I'm at the point where I'm going to hold off on those until I have at least 1500 rounds through a gun. Especially since some "carry" guns wind up being "range" guns and vice versa after getting used to them.
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Originally Posted By NN300BLK: Could you please elaborate about the safety? I see it's positioned more or less like a 1911's, but it looks really low profile and kind of smooth texture. Low profile is okay, but a requirement for me is that it takes intent to engage/disengage while being easy to disengage when I want to. I'd rather have no safety than a safety that I can't disengage when I need to-- which has actually discouraged me from buying some other pistols in the past. Originally Posted By NN300BLK: Originally Posted By drew5337: I had a second gen P07 with CGW short (er) reset carry trigger, had standard and threaded barrels for it. It was an outstanding pistol. The newest iteration (P09/c) adds better texture and optic cuts. Only thing I didn't like was the safety, it didn't feel like a 1911 safety so I didn't use it. The CGW trigger took some break in but smoothed out to be very very nice in DA and SA. The gun also shot very flat. All that said, a bone stock P10 was every bit as accurate and nice to shoot for less money than a cajunized P07. Could you please elaborate about the safety? I see it's positioned more or less like a 1911's, but it looks really low profile and kind of smooth texture. Low profile is okay, but a requirement for me is that it takes intent to engage/disengage while being easy to disengage when I want to. I'd rather have no safety than a safety that I can't disengage when I need to-- which has actually discouraged me from buying some other pistols in the past. I've got smedium hands, and had to break my grip a little to thumb down the safety. That's been my experience with all manual safety CZs. It had a nice position click, but the shape/location didn't replicate a 1911 experience for me. |