Posted: 8/2/2026 10:14:30 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Marksman14][Edited]
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I put this in the 2011 picture thread, but figure I need to open a seperate thread since there's a ton of experts here who may not check there. I recently purchased the infinity "drop in" trigger kit for my HD4.5. Everything went in perfectly, no issues whatsoever and the trigger pull is absolutely fantastic. My 1911/2011 experience more or less stops at tuning sear springs and fitting triggers- I've never had to do anything other than that. Upon installing the kit, I went through the safety checks. I initially thought I was good with the thumb safety, the hammer stayed put. However, a little further looking and I found that my pistol failed the sear movement test, where you press the trigger with the safety on, then thumb the hammer back, and hear a click indicating the sear did in fact move, and snapped back into place when the pressure from the hammer was relieved. I took the slide off, and looking at the inside of the back of the mag well from the top, I could then in fact see movement. I cannot tell how much movement, all I know is thats not enough to allow the hammer to drop. The issue is this- Infinity said this is fine. I was frankly a little surprised. So to the experts- is a little sear movement ok? If not, what are the easiest and safest ways to rectify this? The HD thumb safety is not available for purchase, and I have yet to find anyone making replacements. Lastly- and forgive me if this is a stupid question- can I use the infinity hammer with the OEM sear/disco without any issues, and would this likely solve the issue? I suppose the hammer could also impact where the sear is at "rest", but I don't know for certain and know for sure some of you guys know the actual answer! Thanks in advance. |
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When fitting a new hammer and sear, there’s always a possibility the safety lever will fail to block sear movement; worst case a new safety will need to be fitted, or the existing safety will need to be modified (peening, welding, or silver solder) to put more metal in front of the sear. Peening is the easiest and can work if sear movement is minimal. How’s the HD safety any different from other 1911 pattern safeties? The shields are more scalloped but is that the only difference? I’d try to see if another brand of ambi will fit (if not necessarily function) if you have another gun lying around. Replacement with a new one of a different brand may be possible. |
https://www.guntechtips.com
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I will pop the safety out of my XC and compare it. It very well may simply be how it is contoured, but I haven't checked. Per the internet "its different", but I'm not sure if that means completely proprietary or simply just shaped different. I believe the plunger engagement area is different on the HD safety, but again, not 100% sure. I don't mind having the safety modified, but its not a gun I can have out for a while, and I'm not sure who to trust locally to do it on a safety that I can't replace if it gets damaged. |
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I'd say you have 4 options. 1) Put the Staccato parts back in for now, until you can get a new HD safety 2) Buy a new 3rd party safety and fit it (this depends on how the HD frame might differ from standard 2011) 3) Have your HD safety modified to fit the new fire control parts. Peening the safety lug is probably an option since the sear isn't being moved fully off the full cock notch of the hammer. 4) Use the gun with the imperfect safety engagement as Infinity has recommended. |
https://www.guntechtips.com
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Originally Posted By ken_mays: I'd say you have 4 options. 1) Put the Staccato parts back in for now, until you can get a new HD safety 2) Buy a new 3rd party safety and fit it (this depends on how the HD frame might differ from standard 2011) 3) Have your HD safety modified to fit the new fire control parts. Peening the safety lug is probably an option since the sear isn't being moved fully off the full cock notch of the hammer. 4) Use the gun with the imperfect safety engagement as Infinity has recommended. I immediately did 1. Left in the physical trigger, and the reduced power firing pin block spring- that spring made an incredible difference- with the series 80 stuff not the focus of the trigger, the break with the OEM components is actually quite nice. Was considering 4, but it really seems like any movement is an unacceptable failure, at least per my looking. I will look into 3. Thank you! |
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Originally Posted By ken_mays: Sure, you can try the stock sear with the Infinity hammer. As long as you have safe engagement (verify with function tests), the old sear will probably get you a lot closer to the proper safety engagement. Excellent. I will give that a go and see what happens! |
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Originally Posted By ken_mays: Sure, you can try the stock sear with the Infinity hammer. As long as you have safe engagement (verify with function tests), the old sear will probably get you a lot closer to the proper safety engagement. Finally got around to doing this. The infinity hammer hooks were a touch shorter than OEM. However, everything more or less was in the same spot from a geometry standpoint. The Infinity hammer dropped right in and did not require any adjustments to over travel to pass the half cock drag test. There is zero discernable sear movement via the hammer click test, or visibly looking at the sear with the slide removed and looking into the frame. No hammer movement while trigger is pulled with safety on. 10 slide drops with no hammer follow. The trigger pull weight dropped a little, so I added a little oomph to the sear spring. Overall due to the shorter hooks, its a little bit more crisp of a pull and feels great. I'm going to call infinity and see if I can order up a legacy staccato hammer, and see if I can drop the remaining parts of the kit into my XC. Ken, thank you for chiming in to this thread and providing me with some guidance. I appreciate it very much. |