Posted: 6/13/2026 12:28:43 PM EDT
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I have a Brazilian contract S&W 1917 that I need some help troubleshooting please. We are getting inconsistent depth primer strikes (with about 30-50% no shoot) in da and sa. SA trigger is dangerously light. Hammer pull back on DA is consistently heavy and by our eyeball measuring devices pulls and releases to the same point every time. I would like it to 1. Go bang everything 2. Have some additional pull weight in SA. Is this just a mainspring issue or should I look at replacing some other parts. This isnt a $ valuable gun but has incalculable sentimental value. I dont want to replace the pistol but Im not concerned about replacing parts. Thanks in advance |
I dont think this is a brains type of operation.
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Originally Posted By ENGCPT: I have a Brazilian contract S&W 1917 that I need some help troubleshooting please. We are getting inconsistent depth primer strikes (with about 30-50% no shoot) in da and sa. SA trigger is dangerously light. Hammer pull back on DA is consistently heavy and by our eyeball measuring devices pulls and releases to the same point every time. I would like it to 1. Go bang everything 2. Have some additional pull weight in SA. Is this just a mainspring issue or should I look at replacing some other parts. This isnt a $ valuable gun but has incalculable sentimental value. I dont want to replace the pistol but Im not concerned about replacing parts. Thanks in advance FPNI The single action trigger pull is light probably because the mainspring isn't at full power. Fix that, the SA is probably fine. Tighten the mainspring screw if it is loose (it can also be short which is another way to "lighten" the trigger), bottom of the front strap or replace the mainspring. You can get replacement springs here, look for S&W N-Frame. wolff Gunsprings If you change the mainspring, I would recommend changing the trigger rebound slide spring as well. I would advise against recutting/doing any metal work to these pre-war S&W's hammer and triggers. They were all case hardened. changing the sear surfaces removes this surface hardness exposing softer steel underneath. No Bueno. No. Modern parts won't fit. These are Pre-WWII actions. Enjoy |
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Originally Posted By Kobolowsky_Tires: I would advise against recutting/doing any metal work to these pre-war S&W's hammer and triggers. They were all case hardened. changing the sear surfaces removes this surface hardness exposing softer steel underneath. No Bueno. No. Modern parts won't fit. These are Pre-WWII actions. Enjoy See! It didn’t take long. I’m definitely not recommending re-cutting the SA notch, except as a last resort. It can be done though, I did it successfully back in the day. Everyone in this thread is focusing on the mainspring being too light, yet OP says DA pull is heavy. Possibly the rebound spring is unusually heavy and the mainspring is too light. My first step would be to replace all of the springs. Maybe that fixes it, it certainly is not too expensive to try. If that doesn’t work, look at the firing pin, someone can probably measure their’s to give you a good idea. Change the hammer, though it probably won’t be cheap. Last resort is re-cutting and re-hardening the SA notch. |
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Step one pop side plate off ( plenty of videos showing the correct way) and do a detail strip. In 90 years might have a lot of crud in there. When reassembling make sure strain screw fully tightened. Most common light strike problems are short or loose strain screw or gummed up action. Careful cleaning of the area the firing pin ( aka hammer nose) falls through in the frame. A little grit in there could do it too. A little trick to try if light strikes are a problem and strain screw is tight - loosen screw and slip an empty primer cup over the tip of the screw and tighten back down. If light strikes resolve, screw is too short and a replacement is in order. ( I had a K frame that for years ran 100% with the primer cup shim trick so I never even replaced the screw) In any trouble shooting go from simple to complex - replacing or attempting repair of fitted parts like the hammer /trigger /hand /etc should be the final straw. |
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Originally Posted By grendelbane: The easy fix probably includes a replacement hammer. It is possible to re-cut the SA notch and re-harden it, but most will advise against it. I wonder if the firing pin is off? With these old school hand fitted parts this is NOT the easy fix and possibly not even the correct one |
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If you look at your picture with the side plate removed there is a sort of proto-hammer stop (the littleblack thing riding on the hand). In my Brazilian 1917 that peice is longer and attached to the side plate. Remove it entirely and try shooting it. As long as you don't drop the loaded revolver on its hammer spur it's still totally safe. As for a "reverse double action trigger job" you need to replace your trigger rebound spring. Lastly: some folks will warn you against removing the side plate without first backing off the strain screw. It can cause your hammer pivot pin to break off. I've never had it happen but it'll turn your gun into a paperweight real fast. |