Posted: 8/11/2026 3:04:00 PM EDT
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So, I have a 19-10 and a 67-5 with the newer mim parts and floating firing pins. Can anyone point me in the right direction on how to smooth up the action? When installing a Wilson or the TK custom mainspring I have light strikes even with extended firing pins. I’ve stoned the rebound slide, cleaned and lubricated everything, and dry fired them quite a bit. The double action feels gritty/stagey in comparison tho my 28-2, 67-1, and 625-3. Attached File |
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Plus the sides of the trigger, hammer, and cylinder stop. I just did a quick 15 minute job on my daughters future m64 today. Made it a 3/10 to a 6/10. Ill do it again when I have the time. Ironically m6 66-8 had a fantastic trigger and after stoning everything the trigger is a 10/10. |
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I never seem to have success replacing the MS without light strikes. Unless I just want to shoot Federal Primers. Especially on newer FP guns. Nelson Ford (the Gunsmith) can get you the action you want based on the video's I've watched of him. He seems to know exactly what weight he can get away with for reliable ignition. I think his technique is bending of the factory MS. I've seen a video of JM where he removes metal off the strain screw a little at a time for his action jobs. Obviously, you'll need back-up screws if you over do it. Jerry also has his action job DVD for $10. Gun Video "Trigger Job: Complete Action Tuning for S&W Revolvers with Jerry Miculek" DVD |
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Kinda sad I don’t have a good way of playing DVDs at the moment. Anyways, the 19-10 cleaned up with more rebound slide stoning and some shooting. The 67-5 has a ‘hitch’ at the very end of the DA pull still. I suspect it has something to do with this artifact in the mim on the corner hear on the hammer. Attached File I haven’t been successful stoning it out so far, so I might just get a replacement hammer. It’s crazy to me that the 67-1 i grabbed that had some road rash has a better trigger than both these newer guns, I just wish the sights were better. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By ARK_Ginger: Kinda sad I don’t have a good way of playing DVDs at the moment. Anyways, the 19-10 cleaned up with more rebound slide stoning and some shooting. The 67-5 has a ‘hitch’ at the very end of the DA pull still. I suspect it has something to do with this artifact in the mim on the corner hear on the hammer. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/469500/IMG_4509_jpeg-3811075.JPG I haven’t been successful stoning it out so far, so I might just get a replacement hammer. It’s crazy to me that the 67-1 i grabbed that had some road rash has a better trigger than both these newer guns, I just wish the sights were better. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/469500/IMG_4510_jpeg-3811080.JPG You can clean up all those steps as well. You're not changing the geometry or removing metal. Just cleaning up the surfaces. You can put the gun together and install the mainspring and just put enough tension on it so you can cycle the action. Hold the cylinder release forward and cycle the action. You can watch the gun work and see exactly where it hitches. Clean up that edge, then try it again. |
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I have a few newer smiths that I have used TK Customs spring kit, and extended firing pin on. The 686 really turned out nice, but my TRR8 is still has a hitch. I reload all my revolver ammo and have never had an FTF using federal primers in 10k rounds. The 686 was decent enough that I used it in this years local IDPA matches and it never had an issue. Recently I tried some white river unplated primers and they all went bang too. One thing to consider. The newer guns that use MIM hammers and triggers *should* be a drop in part with little to no fitting required. But if you can't seem to tune it up to your liking the factory replacement parts are pretty inexpensive if you wanted to try a new one. |
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Originally Posted By Andrewsky: Where did you lubricate it and with what? And when you say there is a "hitch" at the end of the DA pull, is it before the cylinder locks? Is it before the hand retracts? I started with Lucas and have used rem oil that comes in the dropper as well since it’s thinner. This is after the cylinder locks and hand retracts. I’ve watched it with the side plate off just to narrow it down. The hammer is riding on this surface on the trigger before it releases. Pic is before I stoned it some more. Attached File It’s improved quite a bit but still doesn’t quite roll like I would prefer. |
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So after fooling with the original hammer too long I finally got the bright idea to swap out the hammer from my 19-10 to see if it exhibited the same issue. The hitch went away immediately. Unfortunately at this point I don’t believe I’ll be able to correct the geometry to completely remove the hitch. Here is a picture of the two hammers with the 19-10 on the right. Attached File After stoning on it some more to match the unmolested hammer I was able to get minor improvement. I was also able to test fire the gun and everything is in working order. Now I just need to decide if I want to replace the hammer or trade it off to get something in the 3” variety. |
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Originally Posted By ARK_Ginger: So after fooling with the original hammer too long I finally got the bright idea to swap out the hammer from my 19-10 to see if it exhibited the same issue. The hitch went away immediately. Unfortunately at this point I don't believe I'll be able to correct the geometry to completely remove the hitch. Here is a picture of the two hammers with the 19-10 on the right. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/469500/IMG_4515_jpeg-3812505.JPG After stoning on it some more to match the unmolested hammer I was able to get minor improvement. I was also able to test fire the gun and everything is in working order. Now I just need to decide if I want to replace the hammer or trade it off to get something in the 3" variety. 
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Originally Posted By Andrewsky: That looks straight to me. Yeah I'm not going to sugarcoat it, at that point I was pissed and was taking off more material sooner than I should. I can understand now why they have jigs for stuff like this. New hammer is on the way though and I've learned a bit. |
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I had a hitch that never went away until I replaced the trigger, hammer, and DA fly lol I feel like I ended up figuring out what it was exactly but now I cant remember Drove me mad for about a year. The faintest little hitch that none of my others had |
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Originally Posted By chase45: I had a hitch that never went away until I replaced the trigger, hammer, and DA fly lol I feel like I ended up figuring out what it was exactly but now I cant remember Drove me mad for about a year. The faintest little hitch that none of my others had I've got a used hammer and trigger coming in Friday, so we'll see how that changes things. Even when putting in a lighter mainspring the hitch was still there, just more tolerable. Switching to my 19-10 hammer it went away. Fingers crossed I get a good hammer since I cheaped out and bought used. |