New Python or 686 for Class (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 1/5/2026 9:06:33 AM EDT
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Taking an instructor class for revolvers in February. Should be close to 1000 rounds fired in two days, so lots of shooting. Any thoughts on which might be the better gun to take? Both guns would be new models, recently purchased. Looking for opinions on which to purchase prior to next month. Don't want a Ruger for one reason or another....I've narrowed it down to these twp specific models....a new Python or new 686, both in 4.25" barrels. Ammo used will be .38 Special loads for both pricing and availability. Either revolver will be kept then and shot here and there, although I don't plan on high usage of .357 loads. Thanks. |
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If both new productions, it's a crap shoot. Although I've heard about more issues with the new Colts than S&W 686. It's usually other new production S&W models I hear have issues. I'm an S&W guy and took classes with a 686 back in the late 80's. In fact, the Jr. College I attended owned 686's and lent them out to students to use in the classes. They were always a solid performer without issue. Finding a hammer mounted FP 686 from the 80's/90's would probably be the best choice. But a new production may serve you well. |
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With QC lately I ‘d be worried about teething problems during the class. I would attend with a back up gun available if new. If you can run a few hundred rounds through it first I’d feel more comfortable bringing it to a class. |
The only hyphenated names I like are cartridge names......30-06, 30-40, 38-55 etc.
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Originally Posted By SteelonSteel: With QC lately I ‘d be worried about teething problems during the class. I would attend with a back up gun available if new. If you can run a few hundred rounds through it first I’d feel more comfortable bringing it to a class. Yeah, I would not count on a new S&W making it through two 500-round days. |
Life member of CRPA. FPC contributor.
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See if you can get a 586 or 686 no dash or -1 before the class. A SSR could work. As for a new revolver, it's a toss up. I shot a new blued Python recently that was very nice but I can't vouch for its durability. I can vouch for an old Python or Trooper mk2 if that's possible. If you're shooting .38 +Ps, I'd also look for a 19 or 66 if you must have adjustable sights. A 10 or 64 are also good options. There's lots of options.Attached File |
NRA Benefactor Life
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I appreciate the feedback. Unfortunately, finding something "older" wont really work for a few reasons. No local shops have much to offer in the used market in revolvers these days. Even if they did, as a lot of you feel its a crap shoot on a new model.....I feel the same with something used. I've had bad luck over the years buying other people's problems. So honestly, I'd never trust anything used as my primary. The 686 line I'm a bit disappointed in, as for years I'd heard they were tanks. When you guys say "new production" what does that mean? Like 2024+ made, or 2020+, etc.... Is there a specific cutoff you guys have noticed that their quality went down hill? As for the Python, well I've always wanted one going back 20 some years. I didn't buy one back when they were reintroduced as I figured I'd let the bugs get worked out. 6 yrs later I had hoped they were GTG. Apparently not. As for the GP100 series, maybe I'll have to go that route then. Years ago I had a 2" SP101 which was fine, but I had liked the Smith's better. Sold off the SP for something else. Prior shooting will be hard to do, save for 100 or so rounds probably. Between a torn quad, possible surgery, rehab, etc....It's gonna be a miracle to even attend in February. Just trying to get my ducks in a row early. I appreciate the help. |
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Originally Posted By dobie: I appreciate the feedback. Unfortunately, finding something "older" wont really work for a few reasons. No local shops have much to offer in the used market in revolvers these days. Even if they did, as a lot of you feel its a crap shoot on a new model.....I feel the same with something used. I've had bad luck over the years buying other people's problems. So honestly, I'd never trust anything used as my primary. The 686 line I'm a bit disappointed in, as for years I'd heard they were tanks. When you guys say "new production" what does that mean? Like 2024+ made, or 2020+, etc.... Is there a specific cutoff you guys have noticed that their quality went down hill? As for the Python, well I've always wanted one going back 20 some years. I didn't buy one back when they were reintroduced a I figured I'd let the bugs get worked out. 6 yrs later I had hoped they were GTG. Apparently not. As for the GP100 series, maybe I'll have to go that route then. Years ago I had a 2" SP101 which was fine, but I had liked the Smith's better. Sold off the SP for something else. Prior shooting will be hard to do, save for 100 or so rounds probably. Between a torn quad, possible surgery, rehab, etc....It's gonna be a miracle to even attend in February. Just trying to get my ducks in a row early. I appreciate the help. S&W quality got worse when they moved down south. Avoid anything made in 2023 or later. Preferably find a used pre lock gun. |
Life member of CRPA. FPC contributor.
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I had good luck with a GP-100. It went to the range and shot 200+ without involving an RMA. I wouldn't want to take a new anything to a school where you have to rely upon it. |
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We should make the Communists pick cabbage at gunpoint. I’m not picking that shit, let them pick it. - TitanXD
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Originally Posted By Ameshawki: Which is odd as revolvers are still made in Massachusetts. Originally Posted By Ameshawki: Originally Posted By StevenH: S&W quality got worse when they moved down south. Avoid anything made in 2023 or later. Preferably find a used pre lock gun. Which is odd as revolvers are still made in Massachusetts. It’s not odd. It’s the predictable result of a change in corporate priorities to focus on cost savings. |
Life member of CRPA. FPC contributor.
| I have both the 686 and a Python and the edge goes to the Python in my opinion. It's trigger is much nicer and very smooth and feels lighter. The only issue is using the cylinder release and it's odd operation compared to other brands. I also have a Ruger Match Champion and it is a very nice/smooth gun to shoot and to me, is faster to reload than the other two due to it's quicker/button cylinder release. |
Be the change you want in this world.
| Palmetto State Armory has a bunch of matt finished Pythons right now for well under $1k shipped. Plus Colt has a $100 rebate. I bought one and gave it to my oldest son for Christmas, good solid revolvers. |
Dave Funk
Past President and now a Board of Directors member Iowa Firearms Coalition.
Past President and now a Board of Directors member Iowa Firearms Coalition.
| 686 and it's not even a question. I've had more than a few newer S&W revolvers and never had any of these problems that people claim are rampant. My Python, on the other hand? It's been back to Colt twice and it still won't function 100% in double-action. I have a GP100 too but it's so crude compared to the Smith. |
| Thanks all. I guess I had it right when I narrowed the choices down to the Python/686. From here though things can get subjective I guess. I’ll take a look around and try to see what is in stock locally. From what I’ve seen so far though, most of the Pythons are sold out. Maybe I’ll get lucky at one place and get to put hands on before a purchase. |
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I did my FBI instructor course with a Python and shot PPC for ten years with Pythons, then K and L frames. Regardless of your choice, I'd carry cleaning gear to include a cordless drill with a cleaning rod attached and a bronze chamber brush, plus a bronze brush. Clean the cylinder as often as you can. Make sure there's no debris under the star. Knock any carbon off the face of the cylinder and forcing cone. Run the drill with the brush through the chambers to remove excess fouling. The bronze brush won't hurt it. Good shooting. |
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| Both are good quality guns when the QC man isn’t sleeping. Lots of people talk about the cylinder release on the Colt, I actually prefer it. I’m less likely to hit it on accident and it’s really not any slower than a S&W release, once you’re used to it. The Colt also doesn’t have the goofy lock on it. If you like blued guns, Colt’s stuff is finished a little nicer. Beyond those little things, it’s all preference. |
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Originally Posted By Jack_Rackham: @dobie One other thing, if you go with the Python, you're going to be limited to HKS speed loaders, maybe Safariland Comp II's. Comp III's won't work in the Python. You may already know this. 5 Star firearms makes Colt Speed loaders now that are pretty solid. The two I have are pretty good, they’re similar to the HKS, but a lot smoother. |
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I am a S&W guy myself . I like the way a S&W trigger breaks better but it is a personal thing. These days new guns from S&W have a fair amount of crap work. Grab the gun , carefully check the trigger pull for smoothness by dry fireing it some. carefully look down the barrel over the sights watching out for the barrel and sights leaning left or right. Check that the front sight is pinned tight and not slopping around . not sure how the python stacks up currently. Sad that the big gun outfits let the customer do the final inspection these days. Yes , Colt , S&W or Ruger will fix the guns that slide thru but it sucks to buy a new gun and finding out it has to go back to the factory before you get it up and running |
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Originally Posted By CheemsK1500: 5 Star firearms makes Colt Speed loaders now that are pretty solid. The two I have are pretty good, they’re similar to the HKS, but a lot smoother. Anodized aluminum and almost a piece of modern art, like the Python. Will a regular old s&w m10 38 do it or does it have to be a 357? I own both and all of the above. 
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Originally Posted By dobie: Looking for a .357 for the flexibility in ammo. If I ever want to shoot .357, I can. Attached File Here's my 686 no dash with a SSR barrel. Attached File And a photograph of an actual SSR Pro |
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| So much hate for new S&W. What’s considered “new”? I have a 686 that I’m sure would be fine for more than 1k. I’d take that over the python (which I have one) because it feels sturdier to me and you should switch out the trigger springs making it more comfortable to shoot. Mine was from about 2012 and I have the Wilson Combat springs. Is that year considered to be questionable? |
Figured I’d update this now. Class originally got canceled due to size. It was rescheduled for April, and i completed it. Tough class…probably one of the tougher instructional classes I’ve taken. This was due to my unfamiliarity in general with shooting revolvers at speed for scores. Learned a lot, and had a blast, after the fact. Reloads suck for sure when you’ve used nothing but a semi auto pistol for 27 yrs. I’ll say though that I honestly appreciate a good revolver now. Ended up shooting about 1000 rounds in two days. Hardly any downtime. I ended up going through with a 686-6. Had not one problem. Trigger was good, sights were fine, everything functioned as it should. Only shot .38 though. Didn’t clean it until after the class was over. By hour 3, I’d shot more revolver than the entirety of my life. 😂. Very pleased with the 686. That said, as a graduation gift to myself I went out and bought a new 4” blued Python, because why not? 
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| I won’t own a centerfire S&W that has a frame mounted firing pin. That is a good age cut off. Without doubt the chances of getting an older one that is a bad apple is SUBSTANTIALLY less than getting a poor quality current production. For the $800 or so bucks a current 686 goes for, go find 2 good used solid model 10’s or 15’s and go to class with a back up ( that you will likely never need) |
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Originally Posted By dobie: Figured I’d update this now. Class originally got canceled due to size. It was rescheduled for April, and i completed it. Tough class…probably one of the tougher instructional classes I’ve taken. This was due to my unfamiliarity in general with shooting revolvers at speed for scores. Learned a lot, and had a blast, after the fact. Reloads suck for sure when you’ve used nothing but a semi auto pistol for 27 yrs. I’ll say though that I honestly appreciate a good revolver now. Ended up shooting about 1000 rounds in two days. Hardly any downtime. I ended up going through with a 686-6. Had not one problem. Trigger was good, sights were fine, everything functioned as it should. Only shot .38 though. Didn’t clean it until after the class was over. By hour 3, I’d shot more revolver than the entirety of my life. 😂. Very pleased with the 686. That said, as a graduation gift to myself I went out and bought a new 4” blued Python, because why not? That's awesome man, I need to take a revolver class, definitely pretty green there if I'm honest. And good decision on adding the Python. The answer is always both, I love my S&Ws and Colts, for different reasons. |
Give me that old time religion
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2 686s I would not bring a single revolver to a 1k round class. I would not bring a single auto to a class either though My new smiths have largely been pretty good. Issue here or there which they fixed fine. |
Battle Of West Appalachia Survivor
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An older S&W 686 or 686+. I don't care one way or the other about the lock, other than older guns without it were made back when S&W consistently made good revolvers. I prefer the 3" 686+ when conceal carrying a .357 Mag revolver. A bit large, but still comfortable for IWB carry with a good belt and holster, and very shootable with full power .357 Mag self defense loads. The 3" barrel gives good ballistic efficiency without excessive length.   
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Originally Posted By gtmtnbiker98: 1,000 round class in two days? I sure wouldn't choose a new production S&W and definitely wouldn't choose a new Python. Ruger GP100 and enjoy the class (no side plate screws to f*ck with). Revolvers tolerate neglect, but not abuse Edit, I guess I'll eat crow. How many revolvers went down in this 1000 round class? How often did the instructor make you clean it? |
Don't be so open-minded that your brains fall out.
General education should not be mere job training, but training in how to be fully human.
General education should not be mere job training, but training in how to be fully human.
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Originally Posted By GaryM: PSA has been having some great prices on 686s recently. Worth checking out if there are currently any good deals.  |
Don't be so open-minded that your brains fall out.
General education should not be mere job training, but training in how to be fully human.
General education should not be mere job training, but training in how to be fully human.
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Originally Posted By MRW: You're going to need to bush it clean every three cylinders, including under the star. |
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Originally Posted By pokey074: Honest question: have you ever actually shot a revolver before? I will routinely shoot a minimum of 100 rounds of .38 Special in an outing (that's over 16 cylinders full) without any cleaning or brushing and zero problems. No kidding, I've done 300 rounds through my Cobra in a range session before. They don't need cleaned that often. |
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0. 0 for both questions. Not one gun “went down” and while I can’t speak for the other students, I did not clean my 686 overnight. I had not one issue or malfunction that was not attributed to myself bumbling around with something I didn’t have much practice with. The only issue that was prevalent was the guy shooting a 686+ 7 round gun. He consistently had issues with speed reloading from multiple HKS reloaders. He tried my 6 shot gun and loaders…no issue. His 7 round cylinder just didn’t like reloading under stress. Could definitely be operator error…but it was enough that all of the rest of us were glad to only have 6 rounds to deal with. |
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Originally Posted By Jack_Rackham: @dobie One other thing, if you go with the Python, you're going to be limited to HKS speed loaders, maybe Safariland Comp II's. Comp III's won't work in the Python. You may already know this. I think Speedbeez makes one that's good for range use- and 5star has a python model for metal speedloaders
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New Python or 686 for Class (Page 1 of 2)
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